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Everything posted by TodFitch

  1. All the door handle and window crank handle retaining pins on my car started their lives as the shanks of nails.
  2. Does the paperwork you have show the engine number or the serial number? Do you know if the engine has ever been swapped out? The Chrysler Historical collection might be able to help here: The have many of the original "build cards" and they store them by serial number. The build card shows the original body number and original engine number so if you can get a copy of that it could help convince the verifier that everything matches up.
  3. On many (most? all?) clutch discs there are coil springs arranged in a circle near the hub. Are those springs offset to one side or the other? If offset the side the protrude on will be away from the flywheel.
  4. On my older car the center of the disc extends farther on one side than the other. If you try to mount it with the thicker side to the flywheel it won’t fit. Maybe the newer ones are the same. . .
  5. See: https://www.ply33.com/Repair/torque
  6. If that is a recent manufacture (or rebuilt) fuel pump, look for the pivot pin to have backed out. Originally I think they were staked but nowadays they just seem to be loosely pressed in. The better rebuild kits have a longer pin with some way to secure it. The last one I got had two grooves on the pin and came with cir-clips (sp?) to hold it in place.
  7. Doesn’t sound too much like the dark side to me. That '64 300K sounds like a great road car.
  8. "Hardtop" would be the name for that body type when and where I grew up with in the 1960s. I don't recall seeing a Plymouth hardtop from the early 1950s though.
  9. Off topic but. . . When I was in my late teens and early twenties I was cocky enough to think I could understand anything given a little time and the desire to study it. As I have gotten older I have noticed more and more things that I am certain I will never be able to understand. Most of the "I will never understand this" items are about human behavior. You have just added one more item to my list. Why would anyone think that was a good idea?
  10. And why were the inspection plate screws so corroded if the brakes were recently rebuilt?
  11. You can get a new driveshaft for less that $100 or so? Looks like the tools start at about $85: https://www.amazon.com/s?k=cv+boot+spreader Edit: It looks like there are even lower tech kits: if/when the current boots wear out I will be seriously considering something like this.
  12. Seems like the approximately $65 and a universal boot as mentioned by Go would be cheaper than having a new driveshaft built: Here is what I think Go is talking about:
  13. The ball & trunnion joints are actually a form of a constant velocity (CV) joint. There is no particular need for a CV joint on a driveshaft that has a limited range of motion but I suspect that some old time engineer who thought they were better kept them in the design until he was retired out. With respect to vibration on a ball & trunnion setup, I believe there are three possibilities: The housing being worn. The shaft being bent. The pin being mispositioned. Barring some extreme off roading bending the shaft by contact with boulders, etc., I think vibration developed in service is likely due to the housing getting worn. That, in turn due to a bad boot letting dirt in. The pin is a really tight fit and the only way it could be mispositioned is if it was not installed correctly.
  14. Looks like you got some head gasket cross references from my website. I don’t have a reference that shows what a McCord 5766 fits. If it is for 1935 or later Plymouth it will not work on the 1933-34 engine. The 1933-34 is a narrower block than the 1935 and later. . .
  15. TodFitch


    My RPM calculator is on a page giving my thoughts about how fast to drive.
  16. Why? Your car came from the factory with hardened exhaust valve seat inserts, etc. About the only thing a lead substitute will do is empty your wallet a bit faster.
  17. To the best of my knowledge, there was never a DeSoto branded truck sold in the US. For Canada I believe they used the Fargo branding.
  18. Maybe. The '63 D200 had the same front sheet metal as in the photo. But the '68 D200 my parents had revised the grill, headlights and rear window. Fairly small changes all things considered so it could well have been done as a running change during one year.
  19. In the old days you used a special water pump grease. I believe its prime quality was that it would resist being washed out by water if the seal was not perfect. I think chassis grease might be a better match than old fashioned wheel bearing grease. Old fashioned wheel bearing grease is “high fiber”. Not fiber in the sense of actual fibers but in the sense that it is sticky and stringy which helps it adhere to the rotating ball or roller bearings. Our old water pumps use bushings (“plain bearings” in engineering speak) rather than roller or ball bearings and I suspect the stringiness of wheel bearing grease may not be good at providing lubrication in that environment. Chassis lubricants seem to be designed for sliding and rubbing surfaces which is why I think it might be a better replacement for water pump grease.
  20. I use basically that method when tightening the rear axle nut. Spec says 142 ft-lbs minimum and my torque wrench does not go that far. But I know what I weigh and can measure the length of the wrench. Torque is simply force (my weight in this case) times distance (length of my wrench’s handle).
  21. If you are finding driveshafts in swap meets with the ball and trunnion style U-joints you can find ones just a little smaller than what Plymouth used. Don’t know what the one I found was intended for, undoubtedly a non-Mopar make, but it fooled me out of some money. So I’d say there are at least two sizes used by Mopar but maybe more used by other companies. My experience in following the the procedure for rubber boots found in later FSM manuals (only leather originally shipped on Plymouth for 1933) is that the boots I bought had apparently been sitting on the shelf for many decades. Even if I got one on without tearing, it would fail just sitting on the shop bench for the week it would take me to get around to putting the driveshaft on the car. If there were a source of newly manufactured boots sized for our cars I would consider the them a better option. In the meantime the leather boots I put on the car about 10 years ago are still in good shape.
  22. I wonder how much that specialty tool to expand the boot for installation costs. . . Pretty neat technique if you have the tool.
  23. The pre-WW2 cars used the SAE five hole mounting standard which is still in use today for some boats, RVs, custom gas tanks, etc. But by the 1950s they changed the mounting to a using a lock ring around the top of the plate on the top of the sender. Apparently that plate has, or should have, an alignment notch on it.
  24. If you were able to use 3rd gear before you put the new clutch in then I suspect that the issue is in the alignment or adjustment of the shift linkage rather than in the transmission.
  25. For cars from 1924 through 1974 see the look up tool at: https://www.ply33.com/Misc/vin For trucks from 1936 through 1980 see the look up tool at: https://www.t137.com/registry/help/decode.php
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