TodFitch

Remember, offering help on dimensions, etc. is allowed in the general forums. But requests or offers for parts will get deleted. You can use the messaging facility or place ads in the classified area.

There are maps & navigation apps, usually based on OpenStreetMap, that run entirely off line and can be used when and where mobile phone coverage is marginal or non-existent. One that I use is CoMaps but there are others. The only big issue is they typically don't have traffic data but paper maps don't have traffic data either.

This seems very reasonable. The block itself sure looks like a typical L-head Chrysler product. It would make sense that if they wanted a test bed to try out hemispherical combustion chambers they'd use an off the shelf block and make as few changes to it as possible.

Plus one to this reply. For the early 30s there were a couple of body suppliers and each used a different scheme in there body number plates. If you can get a copy of the “build card” from the Chrysler Historical people it should show the engine and body numbers. I don’t know the current status of the historical collection but last I heard you need to send them the serial number and proof of ownership.

You could drive south to Bakersfield then east to Las Vegas. But that would add almost another full day of driving so would not get you home much earlier.

On a local day hike not two long ago we saw a coyote followed a few minutes later by a roadrunner. . . I started looking around for boxes with “Acme” labeling but did not see any.

There is a reason that whole area is called "basin and range". Range being mountains rather than open cattle land. And you have take some of what was the old Lincoln Highway.

The Lincoln Highway route would probably be better aligned for your trip. See https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lincoln_Highway and https://www.lincolnhighwayassoc.org/map/ Now that I am older the section through Nevada is on US-50 (“America’s Loneliest Highway”) is a bit too empty for my liking with a 90 year old vehicle. Back when I got the car and both it and I were 50 years younger I would have done it (and in fact did some sections).

Reminder: Request for part need to be in the classified area.

From the California motor vehicle code:

Last I checked, virtually all of the equipment requirements for non-commercial vehicles in California have as “on or after” date. Only exceptions being at least one rear reflector and two rear view mirrors (one of which has to be driver’s side).

From what I recall from my college engineering classes, it is a bearing. Just not one with a removable/replaceable surface. When running properly there is no metal to metal contact as the surfaces are separated by a film of oil. The problem occurs when things are not ideal and you have metal to metal contact and thus wear. To deal with that a soft metal (i.e. babbit or other soft material) is used as a sacrificial surface. In popular terminology those soft metal pieces are called bearings or bushings. But really the bearing is the whole thing whether or not it has a replaceable sacrificial surface.

In my one experience, whatever air got into the system was so minuscule that it made no difference. In the 50 years I’ve owned my car I have only had to replace the switch once.

I think he is referring to the short hose on the oil pressure meter line between the engine and the firewall. It is there to allow flexing as the engine moves. If brittle with age it could fail causing a massive oil leak.

I have transcribed that document and some others in to my on-line parts database. Light bulbs are in Group 18 “Standard Parts” and light bulbs start in subsection FA. Here is a link: https://www.ply33.com/Parts/group18#18-FA Since it is just a bog standard web page you should be able to blow it up as much as you need to read it.

I found some sticky backed sandpaper that came in long narrow rolls at my local hardware store. I am not sure what the official application of that sandpaper was for, probably some power sander of a type that I am unaware of. I guess you could use double sided tape but you will want it to be as thin as possible as the thicker the paper the less the shoe will exactly match the drum curve.

If I recall correctly, a medium grit and it only took a few minutes per shoe.

Have the shoes been arched to match the drum? If not then the center clearance will be off when the ends are correct. I used some sticky backed sandpaper stuck to the inside of each drum to shape the shoes for that drum. Marked the lining then sanded until the marks were off and I had uniform contact along the whole shoe.

I was under the impression that it was more of "and there you are" and the French equivalent being more like "et voilà". I have found I get better results if I set my AAMCO 1750 to the exact drum diameter then set the toe and heal clearance from the 1750 to shoes using feeler gauges. But maybe that is just me.

Bearings are manufactured to very tight tolerances. The axle housing not so much. So the shims are really to compensate for axle housing manufacturing tolerances and generally, the shims the factory put in are what are needed with the new bearings. Not to say you shouldn't bother checking the clearance, but as a general rule you can just put the new bearings in and use the original shims. On the other hand, with a vehicle this old who knows what some PO or mechanic has done that you may have to reverse.

Do not ask for or offer parts in a general forum section. That type of thing needs to be in the ad area.

Looks like this event is missing from the web page at https://pocsocal.com/events

Gentle reminder: Please do not request or offer parts a general forum, those must be in the ad area. I have edited one of the above posts to remove such a request. Generally I will simply delete the whole post so that is what you should expect.

When with State Farm, I had my old car covered by them, the reason being I had an umbrella policy. The story I got from my agent was that to be qualified for the umbrella policy, all car policies and the house policy had to be through State Farm. Not sure if that was true or not, but the agent was pretty insistent. Maybe that is the case with the OP. Anyway, State Farm decided to not renew our homeowners policy. The reason given made no sense, but rather than fight I moved on and am now with an insurance carrier that specifically told me to get a policy for my Plymouth through one of the usual collector car specialists and simply give them a copy of the sheet showing coverage (which had to have certain minimums for the new umbrella to be valid).

I have heard that the concept of geosynchronous satellites was first noted by the SciFi writer Arthur C. Clark.