TodFitch

Reminder to all: Requests for purchase and offers for sale must be made in the classifieds ad area of the forum.

From my serial number look up tool at https://www.ply33.com/Misc/vin Serial Number 5937681 Found in range 5885816 to 5962601 Serial 51866 of 76786 Year 1948 Make DeSoto Model Name Custom Model Code S11-C Plant Detroit Engine 6 cylinder 236.7 cu.in. L-head Wheelbase 121 1/2 inches

When I zoom in on the photo of your serial number plate it is all pixelated and I can’t read the full number. But based on the starting few digits, it appears to be for a 1948 DeSoto Custom (S11-C) built in Detroit. Sorry I can’t help on the body tag decoding.

A P23 engine would have originally come in a 1951 Plymouth.

It is my understanding that most of the blow by past the pistons occurs on the compression stroke, I guess the pressure in the power stroke seals the rings a bit. Anyway, since the blow by is mostly unburned fuel-air mixture, having the PVC system put it back in the manifold should not greatly change the mixture.

A long, long time ago there were postings on this forum about this topic. As I recall, you can get the military version from Vintage Power Wagons. Or some have simply modified standard plumbing parts they got at their local hardware store.

The one thing nice about cheap import junk tools, and maybe the only thing, is if you are intending to modify them anyway they are generally made of materials easy to grind, drill, file, etc. And if you make a mistake or your custom mods don't work out you haven't laid out very much money.

Does this help?

I am going the Plymouthy Adams regarding learning to diagnose. For example, from your initial description I would never have considered the accelerator pump in the carburetor. That is used only for transitions from low to higher throttle openings. You describe an issue just going faster than 50 MPH not at accelerating at lower speeds or bogging down on sudden throttle application. Without more to go on, I'll toss out another possibility: The coil. The more you have the throttle open, the higher the pressure (more fuel/air mixture) is in the cylinder when the spark occurs. Turns out air is a bit of a dielectric and the higher the pressure the hotter your spark needs to be to ignite the mixture. So pull a plug or plug wire and set things up so you can observe the spark. Is it bright and blue or a weak yellow?

I think they also go by the name of Atlas Obsolete. Have you tried email? I haven't done business with them but have heard of others who have had satisfactory experiences. Mopar Mall 41745 Elm St. #103 Murrieta, CA 92562 Telephone: +1.951.461.9005 Fax: +1.951.461.9220 email: sales@moparmall.com https://www.moparmall.com/Default.asp

Some lubricants are electrically conductive. You probably don't want those. "Dielectric" means it is an electrical insulator which is why you want it for the distributor cam lube. If some gets in the wrong place it won't affect the operation. Why use dielectric grease on electrical connectors? Because the contacts that should be making contact press the grease out and make contact but there is no electrical leakage between adjacent pins. (How many time can you use "contact" in one sentence?)

Or you can just buy them from a supplier like McMaster Carr.

It is my understanding that those ball studs are indeed threaded into that backing plate. Maybe it differs from year to year though. Even if threaded in, decades of rust might have welded them into place.

👍

I used a small garden sprayer that was on sale in a local store. I was concerned that the pump in it would aerate the brake fluid so I put a tubeless tire schrader valve on it above the maximum level of the brake fluid to pressurize it. Works great for me.

Recent manufactured fuel pumps seem to have an issue with the pivot pin walking out of the pump body. That will strand you with out leaking fuel. The pin working its way out seems to be the most common problem.

@Plymouthy Adams gave you the number for the rear axle nut. If you need others, see https://www.ply33.com/Repair/torque

A stock 48 Plymouth, if in good mechanical condition, should be able to cruise at 65 MPH. Especially a coupe which likely came from the factory with a little taller rear end than a sedan. It will not feel the same as a modern car, you may feel you are over revving it, etc. But that is just the way cars were back before the 1970s gas crisis and the industry shifted to taller gears for economy. I have more detailed thoughts on this at https://www.ply33.com/Misc/speed

Unless you also wire in a momentary switch that you can use to fill the float bowl before you start the engine.

What might you want?

Sounds reasonable to me. If I recall correctly, the routing of the wires between the rear engine compartment and the front trunk on the '57 VW Beetle I once owned went through an over window channel in the body. Makes sense if most of your wires are body related to wire the body then drop it on the frame then hook up the few needed in the engine compartment, etc.

The 33 Plymouth instruction book (owner’s manual) calls those felt things “oil washers” so I took that literally and used a little motor oil on them. 1946-54 factory service manual says “Apply a small amount of lubricant, such as MOPAR Lubriplate, on the cams, anchors, guide springs and push rods.”

The torque spec for the crankshaft nut is 108 ft-lbs min. See https://www.ply33.com/Repair/torque

Unless they radically changed things for trucks, I think you have the flow direction reversed.

My phone will only ring if the number is in my contacts. Otherwise it goes directly to voice mail. If the caller is legitimate then they should leave me a message. I find that spam callers almost never leave messages.