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Don Coatney

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Used these tools to work on front suspension. The A frame tool was home made. The spring compressor was modified to work on a Plymouth.

excuse my  lack  of  knowledge,,this is why  i come to this  forum,,great  people and   information here,,please explain the home made tool ? why do  i think  i will need to  know  this  to  re-do my 1940  front end ??   im assuming holds the bushing in position,??and the modified tool also,,thank you for any  info,,

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Here is an interesting ratchet handle. In 1960, I purchased a 3/8 drive deep socket set from Sears and this was the handle that came with it complete with the wooden spinner handle. It's in great condition because I hardly ever used it. As I recall, the sockets ranged from 3/8 to 3/4 inch.

John R

 

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  • 5 months later...

I bought one of these last night. Took 2 auctions to get enough pieces to hopefully have a complete set. I will take more pictures  when it shows up. I'm excited to finally refinish the steering wheel properly on the 46!

 

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Looks good Ed. I bought this steering wheel puller many years ago but it will not work unless the wheel has threaded holes.

 

 

 

Correct. My kit is supposed to actually do both the earlier ones and the ones with threaded holes. However the piece the bolts go through for the puller is missing so I will only be able to do the older style holeless wheels with this kit. Which is OK of course because the other style is readily available.

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Here is an interesting ratchet handle. In 1960, I purchased a 3/8 drive deep socket set from Sears and this was the handle that came with it complete with the wooden spinner handle. It's in great condition because I hardly ever used it. As I recall, the sockets ranged from 3/8 to 3/4 inch.

John R

 

searswrench.jpg

That's pretty cool. I have never seen one of those before.

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Part 2 came today. Its most of a set now. Will do lots of cars. Missing parts for early mercury and some kind of adaptor for certain chrysler imperial and desotos.

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My old Mopar steering wheel removal pullers and steering gear box seal service tools....

Bob

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  • 2 weeks later...

Paper clips yes, but much more avail in the shops I worked in were small cotter keys, open the up and you got and easy connection down into plug in connectors,  :rolleyes:   the right tools for the job always make it easier!

 

I'll keep an eye out now for a good price. My I ask what you managed to get the set for?  Will give me at least a starting point for comparison. Thanks!

 

Doug

They are $173 today on amazon including shipping if you are a Prime Member.

 

 

Power Probe PPKIT03 Master Test Kit

 

http://www.amazon.com/Power-Probe-PPKIT03-Master-Test/dp/B003QHDLEQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1401984925&sr=8-1&keywords=Power+Probe+PPKIT03+Master+Test+Kit

Edited by knuckleharley
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Still on my wish list!  :rolleyes:

 

DJ

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Here is a puller I had to make to pull the stubborn rear transmission seal.   I used a cheap Harbor Freight puller and a lot of grindstone to make it fit with the claws facing outward.   The original seal is one inch deep and would not move by the usual pry method.

 

Jim Magennis

Clover, SC

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  • 1 month later...

TOOLBOX ARSENAL: 

I needed to bleed the brakes in the '49, and since my helper stood me up a few days ago, I gave it a shot myself.  Since the floorboards are out of the truck, and the steering wheel is off, I tried wedging a scrap piece of 2x6 leftover from a shipping pallet I had scavenged back in '02.  I haven't had the time to put together the pressure bleeder, and I needed to use this truck to start running water to trees & the house foundation.  It's not as good as having somebody working the pedal on command, but it worked well enough to get the truck to stop at the low speeds I am using it for now.  The li'l milk jug just has a crossing-slit cut in the cap with the vinyl hose poked through  :cool:
 

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As ya might expect, the one-man brake bleed operation with the wood block is a lot of physical work for such an easy task.  I basically did situps & squats for about 2 hrs to work all of the air bubbles out of the system, and at the end of the day, I was reeeally feeling it :rolleyes: 

Edited by JBNeal
revised information
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. . . I basically did situps & squats for about 2 hrs to work all of the air bubbles out of the system, and at the end of the day, I was reeeally feeling it :rolleyes:

 

For $20 to $30 and a trip to the hardware store, I think I could make a pressure bleeder and bleed the brakes in that time without all the sit ups and squats. :)

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I've got all the parts on the shelf for the pressure bleeder except for the adapter...I have a donor plug that will fit this master cylinder, but getting around to doing little projects is a bit tricky with the stack of vehicles by the house that need worked on, the retired neighbors who need their yards worked on, and that pesky job that sucks down a huge chunk of my time...if I didn't have to go to work, I might get a few things done around here :huh:

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Wow, six trucks and a full time job. You married? Got any kids? I've got three, dibs on a fourth, and I'm retired. You need to do what Plymouthy has done, build a bigger shed!

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One of my favorite and most useful tools that I have been able to acquire is my 2 post lift. It is a 1970 Benwil that when new was in a Chevrolet dealership,It has long arms on the left and short arms on the right, the theory was more room for the mechanic to enter and exit the car. This idea never was repeated again and I`m told no other lift had this unusual arm configuration. I found it by chance on Craig`s list about 20+ miles away for $500. When I got there I found a rusty pile of junk that was once a lift, it had layed uncovered in a vacant lot for years. I offered $350(scrap-value) and we settled at $400.

It took quite a bit of time and labor but I was able to restore it to it`s useful purpose again, also about $40 worth of kerosene and two large tupper-wear containers.The industrial ribbon chains that do the lifting were totally rusted and the links were frozen solid and replacing the chains was $600-$800 so I used time and kerosene to dissolve the rust.

It worked like a charm and I also located a place that still serviced these lifts and I was able to get a service manual reprint from them and I was able to speak to a older tech that knew everything about my lift. Someone had changed the lift arms over the years to make it like a normal 2 post lift, he told me to put it back to the original arm configuration and explained why and I listened.The only difference is you have to pull your car very close to the right side post when pulling onto the lift, I set up two mirrors to help me accomplish this.

This lift runs on 3 gallons of 10W30wt motor oil instead of hyd fluid which was aimed at the Chevy dealerships, he told me every Chevy dealership in the US had one of these lifts so there are a lot of them still in service today.

 

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Edited by linus6948
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I needed to bleed the brakes in the '49, and since my helper stood me up a few days ago, I gave it a shot myself.  Since the floorboards are out of the truck, and the steering wheel is off, I tried wedging a scrap piece of 2x6 leftover from a shipping pallet I had scavenged back in '02.  I haven't had the time to put together the pressure bleeder, and I needed to use this truck to start running water to trees & the house foundation.  It's not as good as having somebody working the pedal on command, but it worked well enough to get the truck to stop at the low speeds I am using it for now.  The li'l milk jug just has a crossing-slit cut in the cap with the vinyl hose poked through  :cool:

 

attachicon.gifsmBRAKEbleedBLK.jpgattachicon.gifsmBRAKEbleedCAN.jpg

 

As ya might expect, the one-man brake bleed operation with the wood block is a lot of physical work for such an easy task.  I basically did situps & squats for about 2 hrs to work all of the air bubbles out of the system, and at the end of the day, I was reeeally feeling it :rolleyes: 

 

I had a situation like yours not too long ago. I hooked up 2 bungee cords ahead of the pedals and would pump up the brake pedal then hook the other end of the bungee to the pedal and go open a bleeder screw.  The bungee will hold the pedal down or pull the pedal down if you've already got some pedal.

 

Not as good as a pressure bleeder or having help, but, it works in a pinch

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I too have bled out many old mopars doing the stick against the seat custion method. Works good too-just slow..

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