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Everything posted by ptwothree

  1. Here's what I used on my '52 cranny:
  2. Very well said. A lot of people just see the 35 psi, or whatever, and run that.....silly people! I like 30 psi
  3. Go easy on the heat, they don't need much.
  4. If the front end sheet metal is off the car, you can remove the four bolts securing the upper control arm and with a floor jack under the lower arm then you can easily lower it enough to extract the spring.
  5. You will need an adjustable variable 1-100 ohm resistor. Find the wire hooked to the sending unit. Disconnect it and insert the VR between the the end of the sending wire and ground. Turn on the ign switch and have someone watch the gas gauge while the resistance is varied. Needle does not move= bad gauge or wiring. Needle moves= bad in tank sender. This is just one test but is the one I use.
  6. The steering column harness makes the turn signals and brake lights work. A wire coming off the flasher unit supplies the power to the switch. The rest of it feeds the front and rear turn signals and brake lights. Two wires to the front, three to the rear plus one hot wire=6 wires in that harness.
  7. What if your battery voltage is more then 6v. Would the gauge be accurate? How about if the resistance value in the sender changed. Would the gauge be accurate? The gauge needs to see whatever voltage it is designed to operate on. My point was, that a regulator provides a rock solid voltage for that it needs to be accurate. Resistors can and will change value for many reasons and will have an effect on how the gauge functions. Weather the system came with a regulator, my '64 Rambler had a 5v points type regulator from the factory, to our 6v MOPARS with no regulators at all, both benefit with a constant voltage source. In the case of my AMC, the gas and temp gauges went crazy when the stock regulator was failing. A 7805 solid state reg put everything right. Resistors have there place, but not if a working and accurate gauge is important. BTW....these parts are a couple of bucks, put out little heat and take very little space.
  8. Don't know why everyone installs resistors when going to 12v. Resistors change value with heat and cold and as resistance goes up over time in the circuit. What you need is #7806 voltage regulator. Mount one on a heat sink. One side gets battery 12v, other side is 6v to the gauge. This device will input a constant 6v to the gauge and will help stabilize a shaky needle. Only cost $2/3 bucks. A lot of factory gauges needed a constant 5v supply. Therefore a #7805 would work there. Electric temp gauges work well with these regulators.
  9. Ace hardware has a pretty good selection of springs.
  10. The 10-10 and 20-20 were work horses 40 years ago and I would have one if my garage would stop getting smaller!
  11. Well, if you gotta have a 2 carb setup, then you gotta have this to complement it.... https://www.ebay.com/itm/1948-Edmunds-finned-aluminum-head-Flathead-6-dodge-Plymouth-SPEED-PARTS-MOPAR-L6/173924287321?_trkparms=aid%3D555018%26algo%3DPL.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D57475%26meid%3De070f98cbdb54d34b7d4ce535cb3ec7a%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D173721487715%26itm%3D173924287321%26pg%3D2047675&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851
  12. You might want to rethink using a fan that's almost 70 yrs old. They do suffer from fatigue and can easily sail a blade thru the hood, inner fender, radiator or you. Iv'e had to repair an inner fender because of this. I'm using a pusher electric fan on mine.
  13. The 3 row model really is overkill as this cools very well as compared to originals. 2 row is plenty- But 3 row is only a few $$ more so why not? A 3 row on my '52 won't let me use the stock type fan..too thick. Have to go with a pusher.
  14. Back in the 60's.. Friend of mine owned a '64 dodge 440 with a built Keith Black 440 six pack and Art Carr tq flite. Use to go snake hunting in the Agoura Hills in Ca. Get this...I would drive, he would sit on the right front fender. Would cruse along at 20 mph or so at dusk just as the critters are looking for a nice warm road to bask on. The idea was to spot a snake of some kind on the road and when I got the signal... hit the brakes while the friend slid of the fender and captured the rascal. Bag in one hand and a noose in the other. This thing (the car) would turn mid 12's @ 115 in the 1/4 at lions........I always thought....what a waste!!
  15. I was 20. Lived in a @80 per month house in Redondo Beach Ca. Viewed the whole thing with my mentor of everything automotive and my best friend, Russ Lewis. Sat there watching on my b/w Dumont tv while drinking a bottle of Bally Hai and eating pizza. We had junked out a '53 Pontiac earliethat day and were living the life. Don't remember where the wife was that day but she was a downer anyways. The moon landing was great to watch and had captivated an audience world wide. My dad was in the aerospace industry at the time and had spent a lot of time sifting through launching failures during the early days before project Mercury. A momentous day with or without the vino!!!
  16. ptwothree

    axle seals

    If you smack that seal to hard it will dislodge the retaining spring that holds the seal to the axle. I know because I have to re do mine.
  17. That's why the push for power steering in the early 50's to counteract the upcoming even heaver cars later that decade.
  18. Heat is one thing.....Heat + Humidity is a real bummer!
  19. Here's mine....Wix 24755 . The filter is a napa 1320 spin on bypass.
  20. You might check with "Astro Auto Electric" located in Lomita (310 325 1777) They might be able to convert your 6 volt to a 12 volt. I worded there many years ago so things might have changed some.
  21. Would a 6 volt coil survive on 12 volts through a Chrysler style ballast resistor??
  22. I sit corrected.....I'm 70 and my seal is not as effective as when I was younger.
  23. I didn't know that an accelerator pump is supposed to create vacuum....
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