Jump to content

ptwothree

Members
  • Content Count

    625
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

ptwothree last won the day on March 25 2013

ptwothree had the most liked content!

1 Follower

About ptwothree

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Citrus Heights Ca.
  • My Project Cars
    '52 Cranny 4 dr. Rough but very original.

Converted

  • Location
    Citrus Heights Ca.
  • Interests
    '51 Plymouth Cranbrook

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Here's what I used on my '52 cranny:
  2. Very well said. A lot of people just see the 35 psi, or whatever, and run that.....silly people! I like 30 psi
  3. Go easy on the heat, they don't need much.
  4. If the front end sheet metal is off the car, you can remove the four bolts securing the upper control arm and with a floor jack under the lower arm then you can easily lower it enough to extract the spring.
  5. You will need an adjustable variable 1-100 ohm resistor. Find the wire hooked to the sending unit. Disconnect it and insert the VR between the the end of the sending wire and ground. Turn on the ign switch and have someone watch the gas gauge while the resistance is varied. Needle does not move= bad gauge or wiring. Needle moves= bad in tank sender. This is just one test but is the one I use.
  6. The steering column harness makes the turn signals and brake lights work. A wire coming off the flasher unit supplies the power to the switch. The rest of it feeds the front and rear turn signals and brake lights. Two wires to the front, three to the rear plus one hot wire=6 wires in that harness.
  7. What if your battery voltage is more then 6v. Would the gauge be accurate? How about if the resistance value in the sender changed. Would the gauge be accurate? The gauge needs to see whatever voltage it is designed to operate on. My point was, that a regulator provides a rock solid voltage for that it needs to be accurate. Resistors can and will change value for many reasons and will have an effect on how the gauge functions. Weather the system came with a regulator, my '64 Rambler had a 5v points type regulator from the factory, to our 6v MOPARS with no regulators at all, both benefit with a constant voltage source. In the case of my AMC, the gas and temp gauges went crazy when the stock regulator was failing. A 7805 solid state reg put everything right. Resistors have there place, but not if a working and accurate gauge is important. BTW....these parts are a couple of bucks, put out little heat and take very little space.
  8. Don't know why everyone installs resistors when going to 12v. Resistors change value with heat and cold and as resistance goes up over time in the circuit. What you need is #7806 voltage regulator. Mount one on a heat sink. One side gets battery 12v, other side is 6v to the gauge. This device will input a constant 6v to the gauge and will help stabilize a shaky needle. Only cost $2/3 bucks. A lot of factory gauges needed a constant 5v supply. Therefore a #7805 would work there. Electric temp gauges work well with these regulators.
  9. Ace hardware has a pretty good selection of springs.
  10. The 10-10 and 20-20 were work horses 40 years ago and I would have one if my garage would stop getting smaller!
  11. Well, if you gotta have a 2 carb setup, then you gotta have this to complement it.... https://www.ebay.com/itm/1948-Edmunds-finned-aluminum-head-Flathead-6-dodge-Plymouth-SPEED-PARTS-MOPAR-L6/173924287321?_trkparms=aid%3D555018%26algo%3DPL.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D57475%26meid%3De070f98cbdb54d34b7d4ce535cb3ec7a%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D173721487715%26itm%3D173924287321%26pg%3D2047675&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851
  12. You might want to rethink using a fan that's almost 70 yrs old. They do suffer from fatigue and can easily sail a blade thru the hood, inner fender, radiator or you. Iv'e had to repair an inner fender because of this. I'm using a pusher electric fan on mine.
  13. The 3 row model really is overkill as this cools very well as compared to originals. 2 row is plenty- But 3 row is only a few $$ more so why not? A 3 row on my '52 won't let me use the stock type fan..too thick. Have to go with a pusher.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use