Los_Control

What I find interesting, hope you can see it in the photo ... The front of the tank is 1" from outside edge of frame, while rear is 3" from outside edge. This is all factory , I assume there may be a reason for it, I dunno what it is. Curious why you do not want to use the Tanks version already made? Sure with enough money, can build a nicer version .... I bought the tanks version along with a new sending unit. Not installed it yet, but it looks like decent quality to me, there is one bracket that needs to be made to mount the rear of the tank but pretty simple to do.

Thats a good idea how you vented the doors, keeps the sheet metal from rusting away

Tomorrow will see what can do

I have a 1949 1/2 ton, I assume yours is the same ... if you have a 3/4 ton for example, the wheel base is different and the location of the rear cross member has moved. From cross member to center of the tank hole is 21 and 3/4" I think thats what you need, since you are making your own tank and assume mounting bracket, you need to do the math for those. My original tank though, is 19 & 1/4" from center of spout to edge of tank and start of the original mounting bracket, which mounts on crossmember

When I worked on my heater .... no real tricks here, just a flap that opens and close controlled by a cable ... something is binding on yours

I think it finally sunk in, I do have to admit to having a hard head. Been awhile since I started this thread. Since then I had to do a bunch of work on my house, that kept me from working on projects like my truck I did pick up a better compressor for the shop .... and a radio! This compressor is still a bit weak in the knee's, twin cylinder, 30 gallon, 5.7 cfm @ 90psi. I have 1/2 a chance to do something with it compared to my old little compressor to run nail guns. Exact same problem, the hose fills up so quick that it clogs the air .... you control the flow of sand from the bottom of the tank, you do not allow more sand in the hose then you can remove from the hose .... guy can actually get something done .... A wise man once told me this ;D Sometimes I need to be hit with a 2X4 to understand a idea ..... Thanks again Also I got some other advice from another forum, I built a frame that sits on a 5 Gallon bucket, window screen ... and sift the sand through the screen before putting it in the blast pot.

Been pretty lucky here so far. We have been in the 90,s, then it cooled back down. It did prompt me to get my window ac in my office installed. Today we had 65 in the morning, upper 80's for afternoon .... just wish it would stay this way year round

my only opinion, worth exactly what you paid for it. These old engines had a very small selection of options when they were made ... 30 weight seems to be the most common. Todays oils are way ahead of the curve, compared to the 1950's. I am only yard driving my truck at this point, changed the oil twice since waking up the engine, using castrol gtx 10/40 I figure it is 5 times better then anything available at the time, and will work for me today. I also run the same oil in my 350 sbc. With that being said, We inherited the wife's mother, 1993 dodge caravan. The father inlaw was running the same 10/40 Castrol in it, and he said it used a little bit of oil. We drove it 1800 miles on fresh oil change, WA > TX, and it was a quart low. I switched the oil to 5/30, and it no longer uses oil in between 3k mile oil changes.. The car simply likes the thinner oil better and told us what it wants. ...... Possible that we changed the name of the car, father inlaw named it "The *******" We changed her name to , "Lady Bell" Guess my point is, we can ask, we can try, but time and experience and a little experimentation will lead us to the answer. Anything you use today, will be better then what we had then.

I dunno, trying to figure out just how much over kill this puller is ... I just cant imagine needing this puller in my tool box, and using it twice. I guess it is cool if you like to show off tools, I would never buy such a tool for a single purpose. I would much rather figure out how to pull the steering wheel without such frivolous tools.

you get that ol girl that far, may just as well haul her down to Texas, I would love to babysit her and less gas going home ?

I know nothing ... what I think I know .... pull the distributor out and take it with you. See if you cant lube it up and maybe replace the ground wire if needed. Make sure the vacuum advance is working and free. Just general maintenance. I pulled my dizzy, took it to the local parts house ... "Non Napa" They looked up on their computer for the right set of points, they then looked at the model number and looked for a set of points. They had the right set of points on the shelf, but compared to mine they were backwards and could not work. And I am only saying, as it is and only yard driving my truck, my points work fine. Is possible maybe someone swapped dizzy parts and created one out of two that worked for them at the time. I honestly would not want to work on the distributor with it installed ... maybe if I was broke down on side of road would work on it.

Sad that today many products we used in the past are no longer available. I use to use a product that looked like molasses, while having rabbit turds in it. This stuff worked great, and lubed your water pump while at it .... I had a 1960 Dodge fleetside with 6 holes in the radiator, drove it for 2 years and the product cured it perfectly. When I lost a fan belt, it overheated and lost the coolant .... I fixed it and the radiator again had 6 holes, I again added the molasses + rabbit turds, and sold the truck another year or two later. .... today the product has the same name, but does not work the same

welcome to the forum. I would think for some help on your issue, might be nice if you can post a photo of what you have. I am sure others will be along with photos of what they did .... I have a pickup, sure the linkage would be similar. Just seems like someone put something out of place, and a photo others will catch the issue and help.

My bender looks a little different, someday soon I hope to get a chance to use it. So I cant tell you exactly how well it works. I have used benders like yours in the past, they are awkward. Seems like you wrestle holding the line still while trying to bend it, you almost need 3 hands. This bender I think will work well, once I play with it and get measurements for radius etc... It will be slow, using a wrench and cranking it down one turn at a time, this will also make it more precise. I can put it in my bench vice to hold it, while allow me two hands to work the wrench and hold the line steady. I did not shop for this particular model, is all my local auto parts store had.

I suggest you talk to the coupe in a firm voice, then give it a big hug .... works every time .

Heck, I would build a engine stand and run the motor to create heat

Interesting ... where do you keep your weeds?

I love the old hit and miss engines

The original briggs and srtatton engine is a flathead ... we used it for decades. My current lawnmower is a over head valve engine, I have little faith in it, as it smokes on startup since new

This is going to sound silly ... thinking out loud If by chance the battery cables to the battery got reversed, negative ground instead of positive, would the amp gauge show a discharge instead of a + charge? Just a thought, sure you would not make that mistake. ... Me, you never know

why did I automatically go to Elmer Fudd?

I am not sure how much moonshine weighs, maybe if pflaming does not haul the shine, may be ok?

When I lived in Albuquerque ... a lifetime ago, we had a spring shop down the road, they would re-arch springs on semi trucks, just like new again. How long they last I have no clue, for my E250 work van, was drop it off and $250 they re-arched them ... pretty cheap for the labor involved.

I remember wearing bell bottoms, I was in grade school at the time .... no suit for me Quick edit, I love the seat covers

you suggesting we a bunch of cheap ol farts here?