Los_Control

What a mochine \o/

Thank you. I do plan to file for a lost title for it, my uncle bought it 25 years ago for parts and no title. I plan to take the original motor out and put in my other truck, So I would not want to title it with the engine number. And the 1949 truck does not have the original motor, so probably need to fix the title on that one as well ... always something!

Excuse me for asking in this thread, there is a lot of good info here. I have a 1952 truck that want to file for a lost title, I wonder if the trucks also have a Number on the frame, in the same location?

I just used the search term "dual carb manifold flat head 6" and first hit is summit. They sell 2 manifolds, one for the 23" blocks and one for the 25" block

I was thinking about the effort it would take for the intake. Probably easier to adapt a single newer 2 barrel carb, then all the machine work to build manifold for 2 single barrel carbs. Back in the day, they did not have the selection of carbs that we do now, was worth the effort to make the manifold.

Any chance there would be some written article/info on how to go about doing this? Love that early American Hot Rod look, even if not practical

Not me, but that would be a nice donor motor for the truck. I had the slant 6 in a early 60's 1 ton dodge, It had the 4 speed with granny gear. I bet there would be just about any flywheel, clutch , bell housing available for you. I have no idea what you will need to do to the motor mounts, sure it could be done.

I thank you for your time and effort in maintaining this great site.

That is really looking good, I think I may check into the soda blaster myself. Looking forward to watching this thread.

All great info, I am very happy Hagens is still around. I remember as a kid driving by and looking at all the cool stuff they had sitting around, and going there with my uncle a few times to buy parts. Of course I was only joking when I suggested we might be hoarding the sources for parts

And you expect us to remember where all those cotton pickin wires go? Surely you jest!

Just something to think about. Anytime you have two cylinders next to each other with exact same compression, and lower then the rest, they could be suspect for a leak between them. They would be connected through the warped head/bad gasket and share the exact same compression. And because of the higher volume of space of combined cylinders, the compression would be lower. And of course, could be nothing wrong, they just happen to be the same. Could be you just rounded the numbers off to 80, actually one was 79 psi and the other was 82 psi. These cylinders would be reading differently and not throw a red flag. And all this means to me, if I suspect some issue and doing a compression test looking for the issue, I would check those 2 cylinders multiple times to be positive they were constantly reading the same. Then when head was pulled, I would be looking very carefully at those 2 cylinders for some sort of trail.

As a newbie myself, I think that maybe nobody wants to reveal their sources. If you buy a part this week, sure enough they will need same part next week and they will all be gone. I myself just got a 1949 B1C and am wondering about brake shoes. I see Rockauto.com has some wheel cylinders and master cylinder, but not seeing shoes or drums. Am curious about what others are doing for these items.

Molly is a spinner \o/ I just put the hand crank through the grill and with the plugs out, turned freely.I do have a battery on a charger , never did install it. I saw that the ground wire was for a 12 volt system and not 6volt. And it was attached to the transmission, not where it belongs. I pulled the distributor cap and was going to clean and reset the points, it really looked so clean already I decided to leave it alone. Pulled the seat and looked at the rust on the floor, there is some but not as bad as I expected it to be. Realized it has the soft/firm adjustable seat, has the instruction .tag up above the windshield for it. Just a lot of tinkering and comparing notes between the 2 trucks. Just not sure when will get back to it, in the process of moving a 8'x20' building on the property, is sitting up in the air on blocks and a trailer ready to back under it. When the building is moved and back on the ground, then flower pot gets moved back to where the bed is, and then molly will be moved so is room to work on it. As is, just barely enough room to squeeze by it and a pita to do anything. But very pleased the motor is not froze up at all.

You guys crack me up Finish my coffee and on my way over to play, will be laughing all day!!!

That was my first impression, or maybe a stress crack that was common with these years. After reading this from Jeff, and thinking of the rust on the back of the cab. They are all inline with each other and basically floor height. I expect to find more surprises under there, when I get all the original flooring and rug up, seat removed and all cleaned and swept out. Water would get in through the broken glass, and sit on the floor in this area. Makes me concerned about the cab mounts to the frame back there. I am naive, in thinking this will just be work and a few extra steps to repair, the cab will be off anyways and all flat metal and easy to duplicate. As long as it is a solid welded patch panel, wont bother me if it does not look 100% original. Very few would be able to see it or tell the difference anyways. And I will need a area like this to practice on, before I tackle the rust on the bottom of the door skins.

I am also new to the forum, found it a great place for info. I read this article the other day and thought it was vert well put together. Was a good read.

How often does the opportunity come along, to remove and refurbish your floorboards? I would suggest, not nearly enough. I would welcome this chance, and you could remove your steering box/column while at it.

Myself, I would run straight water until all coolant issues were repaired. Water will boil faster then 50/50 antifreeze, but if it is overheating, again is a cooling system issue you need to deal with. No sense in wasting the antifreeze or allowing it to leak on the ground, where animals could drink the sweet tasting antifreeze and die.

Ok, game on! I let uncle settle down over the property dispute deal, and then approached him with the deal, trade my labor for molly. He is very pleased to do it, happy to see someone in the family fix it up. And save him some cash at the same time. The picture below is not molly, we will call it "flower pot" I will push it straight back where the bed is, and switch the bed off the frame onto flower pot. I checked the engine, and it is the original 1952 flathead, numbers start with T306, I will pull the motor to eventually put in the 49. I could use some ideas on what all to keep. Just plan on making it a roller, and the girl wants it for yard art, will never be driven again. Sometimes it would be real easy to forget a important piece that I may need later and very difficult to find. I plan to keep, motor, radiator, heater, maybe the fuel tank. I was also given another plymouth flathead 6 that was in the truck that the bed is coming from. Gives me 3 218 flathed sixes to work with. I pulled the plugs on molly today and put some oil in the holes, give it a couple days to do it's work, before trying to turn it by hand. I also found some more rust in the cab today, nothing to bad, just another thing to fix. Second photo is the newly found rust, When you close the door, you can see that cab corner move. It sits nice and flush and hard to see, for the photo I am actually holding it in my left hand and pushing it back to expose it. I just thought it was a odd place to rust myself.

I think it is that Ford moss that falls off

Where do you feel it? Is it in the seat of your pants, or the steering wheel? I had a 51 ford with bad king pins, get it to certain speed/rpm on the highway and it would shake like it was going to fall apart. Only way to stop it was to pull over to a stop , take off again. But where you feel the vibration, will help eliminate a lot of possibilities..

Like to thank JBNeal for the photo. I really had no idea that molly was the hunter green. Under all the years cruft. I finally had a chance to talk with uncle today and tell him my intentions with Molly were true. He seems to want to sell me the better of the 2, the 52 1/2 ton with the bed, and I still want Molly with no bed and build one. I just said lets sleep on it, Will see you tomorrow and we talk then. I am a future owner of a mopar flathead 6 truck \o/

We could really get iin trouble here, talking about rearends. Do these tires make my rear look fat?

Just my tw0 cents. If high gear in the trans is 1:1, then will be same rpm in 3 speed high gear as a 4 speed high gear. The 4 speed has the granny low that you early use, how often will you pull stumps with your truck? So the 4 speed is essentially a 3 speed with a sexy stump pulling gear in reserve. I do think the 4 speed is a stronger transmission. The 3 speed I bet has slightly different gearing getting to top gear. The weak link on a 3 speed is the 3 on the tree linkage. It actually works very well, but always got ignored in the routine maintenance schedule, so it needs new bushings and shims and lots of grease to get operating again. The sexy thing about the 3 speed, is the shifter on the column. I think what you really want is info on the rearend gear ratio, and what rearend to use. What I gather, and am very new to just researching this info myself, it is a set of 3.73 gears wiith a 4 speed trans to make it more drivable. I have yet to see anyone with a 3 speed talk about a gear change and if the 3:73 also work for them.