Los_Control

What about the original 6 volt motor? You may be able to get 3 or 4 years from it? Your car is pretty nice, I understand wanting to get exact replacement parts. Your 6 volt motor is simply going to run faster. Eventually years down the road, when you run the heater to much in LA, you just replace it with a 12 volt heater motor the same size. You can do that now. Just wondering if you are over thinking the non issue. Just pull your motor out, size shape, mount, voltage and buy what you want. Restoring a heater, is a totally different topic on its own, being from LA you get a pass, but it is just another step you need to do.

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From what I see in the photos, frame and all looks pretty good. I think you have a decent all original car there. Some frames from other locations, would be all rusted up and need repair. Yours has dirt but do not see major rust. While the motor does not run, the rest of it is looking pretty good. I dunno, sounds about right ... I imagine a complete rebuilt engine will cost $2k with machine work. Have you checked the numbers on the block to see what engine you have?

Just to add to the last post, look at the floor boards above the rear end, see the oil ... it did leak in the past. I have said before, sometimes we need to play detective to figure out the history of a car. This just tells me that someone loved and cared for this car before you. just to bad it was parked with no carb on it, it really may not be that bad to bring it back to life. Same time, it may have been parked because they hot rodded it and spun a bearing. Just like my Grandpa did in 1961. Or maybe the carb was bad and they just never fixed it. I would check the condition of that engine, but you could also try placing a few want to buy adds in the classified here, craigslist, facebook market place. people will pull good running engines and replace with a modern engine. Now they have a good flathead six sitting in the garage taking up space. You might pick up a runner for not much money if you ask. That is something you will need to decide. Fixing it with a original bolt in engine and making it road worthy will be the cheapest options. Many have dropped every type of engine you can imagine, yes a 327/200r has been done before. You have to be honest with yourself, how good of a fabricator are you? You can bolt in a replacement engine, you will have to make mounts and solve problems installing the 327/auto. We all start somewhere, I have very little knowledge of cars, I depend on the participants of this forum to help me ... I am a carpenter not a mechanic. I strongly suggest you just fix the car, get it running and drive it, then upgrade it as the years pass by. enjoy the car. You are already talking about a 4 link rear end, yet you do not know what lowering blocks are. I assure you, you will not need a four link with a flathead. Fix what you have, then modify and improve from there. Otherwise you will end up like many others, pile of parts in the driveway that needs removed.

Looking at this photo, looks almost identical to the rear end in my 49. I am guessing you have original rear end with home made lowering blocks. Big difference I see, Mine has more oil around the u-joint area. Maybe you need to add some? Just joking with you, yours actually looks pretty clean and the front seal is not leaking. Might just be a low mile car, I suspect someone has been in there and replaced the seal. So far I have owned 3, 1949-1952 trucks, every one of them needed a new seal. Yours seems like it was not leaking the last time it was on the road, it may start leaking when you start driving it.

yes drive shaft, sometime we can tell by the shape and looks, if the rear end is original or swapped out to something newer. So far only seen pictures of the axle tubes. Tubes all look the same Head bolts you should be fine. not sure what hinges you are talking about ... I bought my truck over a year ago, been spraying penetrating oil everywhere whenever I think about it or get a chance.. Bolts still break, but I feel better because I tried.

those photos it looks like it may be easy to remove. I meant a photo of where the driveline connects to the pumpkin, to see if it is original or newer.

I wonder if they may have tack welded the blocks in place to hold them? Might be nice to see a photo of the rear end housing, wonder if it is stock or been changed to something newer? One thing with these old cars, you never know what someone else has done in the past.

They put lowering blocks on it .... home made square tubing between the springs and axle housing. Also longer u bolts for the added block. You would need to take off the u-bolts, remove the block, then use proper length u-bolts to bolt it back together. I have never done this to a car, not sure if they would have modified anything else. Maybe someone else knows if there is something else.

I would put some air in that tire before taking it on the freeway. From what I see, looks like it could be undone.

Just keep your chin up and have the right attitude Your goal here is to restore the manifolds to good working order. Be real careful taking the brass nuts off that bolt the manifold to the block, I am guessing you have a good chance removing these without breaking the studs. I would try to save them. Be a pita drilling them out with the engine in the car. But it is doable, just another job. I would almost bet money all the other bolts will break. The bolts holding the exhaust pipe to the flange, no big deal you want to replace them anyways. Same with the bolts holding the 2 manifolds together, there is the gasket between them that you are after. those bolts are guaranteed to break. But now you have the manifold on your work bench, you can just take your time and drill out the broken bolts and repair the threads. It will be a job, just think how proud you will be every time you open the hood and see the nice painted manifolds with new bolts and new gaskets Knowing that it will be the last time you have to do that job on this car.

I can follow that, and accept that as a final decision. I think we should do it just to make your son infamous ... I mean why not? What exactly do we have to care about?Or change? Yet your son never asked for it ... you choose if it is right.

I do not know what a turkey build truck is ... I had a 77 toyota, they knocked the Wind shield out of it and was a bunch of drunks hunting birds .... shooting through the windshield. Again, not saying it is wrong. Just that in 30 years, has not changed much. I stuck a wind shield in that truck and drove it for 5 years, Just saying, not a big turkey shooting fan.

just to add to it, money was tight back then. They did not add extra nuts on the studs because it was cheap. Why did they do this?

Not saying it is bad, just that it is different. Then makes me wonder what someone 30 years ago was thinking. Why they did that. That is not factory or normal.

Yes sir there is no issue between you or me. I looked at that and thought ... wow ... Slap a straight axle on it, tub the rear end ... get er did ... I also thought your car was to nice to be abused.

Here is my question ... exactly what is stock and what is modified? Not sayin it is right or wrong, just what you have is not original. Now you need to crawl under the car and determine what they changed, to make it what you want. Possible I am wrong and your front suspension is flat wore out ... disregard my post!

Still waiting for new photo's. That is actually a stance that some hot rodders like. Possible it has lowering blocks and thats the way the car sits. I just have a issue with the garage ... not a tool insight. And some crap on the one shelf .... is this guy going to fix this car to a gasser? Just curious, you plan to do the work yourself?

May actually be a shaved head and bigger pistons in that engine? May be a old hot rod trick to add the extra nuts? Not saying it is true ... just that it is different.

I was looking at that, just kinda figured someone added nuts on top of the studs. Which would do nothing ... but still is what it is.

you may get better suggestions from this thread. Just because I might pull the head, others may have a good idea also. Because it is missing the carb and today the motor is locked, looking at the cylinders would be a real good option to see whats really going on. If the motor turned, I would not suggest pulling the head. Since it is already locked and carb is missing, possible you can pull the head and clear up the issues and bring this motor back to life without removing it. You could spend 3 months soaking that engine, still locked up. If the cylinders look good, then maybe a bad bearing and the crank is froze. Possible just a bad carburettor, They pulled it off and left it for 30 years. This is a mystery, you need to be a detective. It may not be as hard as you think to get that motor running. It may be easier to stick a chevy in it. If you advertise in the classifieds, you may find a good running flat6 to bolt in. Time to be a detective and carry your magnifying glass to look for clues.

I guess thats where I have a issue. I am that guy that would do the job for you ... I just have a issue about hiring someone to do it for me. I let the mechanic replace my tires, rebuild my exhaust, and front end alignment. What really sucks, I refuse to let anyone work on my house. This meant I dug by hand and replaced 110" of sewer pipe ... this year ... them "damn plumbers" not touching my house! I only have 20' to go to get to the city sewer line. Working well as is. I just cant imagine hiring someone to work for me. Not saying it is always bright ... I do question if I would use a pressure washer as much as needed to cover cost.

Pretty rough on them, being parked with no carb. Everything just goes straight into the cyl/pistons. I hope others have opinions. I might want to just go ahead and pull the head on that one. At Napa, I bought a complete engine rebuild gasket set for about $120 I would not order it before looking at the engine. Pretty simple to pull the head, then look at the cylinders and soak them then. It might save you a lot of time and grief. Do you have any idea how long it has been since last driven? You want the carb mounted as a first layer of protection, then you want the air cleaner on the carb as a second level of protection. You have neither. Does not mean the engine is shot, but it has been open to the weather for as long as the carb has been removed. This is one of the few times I might suggest removing the head and go from there. See how bad the cylinders are at this time. This would be a good example, the engine was fine. The carburettor needed rebuilt so they pulled it and then bought a $100 newr car instead.

This is kinda what I am wondering ... I got 5 jobs right now I would use it for, then I kinda wonder if I would just live fine without it, just do the same jobs without the pressure washer. I actually just think that I might use it a few times, then park it in the corner and maybe never use it again. I actually already dealt for a metal shed, 12' x 16' and I just need to go pick up the pieces, I only want the metal siding and roofing. Then I would have space to park extra tools. We have to worry about rattle snakes around here ... I will wait for cooler weather before picking up what I bought. I was wondering, if after you bought yours, you actually started to use it more then you expected.

Thing about these old flatheads, if taken care of, they were very dependable. They do not like to rev over 3600 rpm. I gave away a 52 suburban last year, my grandpa hot rodded it and spun a bearing. The rod was frozen to the crank since 1961. Just saying, soaking the cylinders would never free up that engine. But quite often, these cars were parked for different reasons. The owner died The brakes went out the wife did not like the leaking windows the radio quit working I dont like the paint color Back then it was so easy to buy another newer car, they just parked the old ones. I bought a 68 chevelle 327/pg for $100 Drove it for 6 months and gave it to my sister who drove it for 3 years. I bought 57 chevy wagon for $75 and drove and sold it for $150 My 1969 mustang fastback I paid $700 for, more then I like ... drove it for several years and passed it on. Just saying, back then it was cheaper to buy a new (used) car, then fix the brakes on your old car. You just need to figure out why they parked this car.