Los_Control

Oooh I could tell stories about U-joints .... not only do they wear out and get loose, grease dries out and they get tight. Really need to pull the drive line to inspect properly. I bet they would love to be disassembled and givin some love, good cleaning and fresh grease ... cant hurt a thing. My off topic chevy is acting like it may have a u-joint going bad, I need to do the same, just to eliminate them from the picture.

thats a great idea

I always liked Christmas packages .... Cant believe you went there and did all your mathematical calculations ... why not just buy it for that price and drag it home? I feel sorry for the seller trying to get rid of his junk.

For some reason I liked the looks, it seems old school to me. With the curved top and the neck for the cap. Lot of effort went into the cap, Is a skin that goes over a off the shelf cap. A new aluminum radiator I guess ~ $350-$450, I wonder what it might cost to have this one re-cored? Either way, this one if it does not leak now, may get me around for a year or so while I shake out the bugs. I always thought buying this house would be good physical therapy for me to regain my health, is proving to be effective. I have all the old cast iron plumbing removed from under the house, was nice it crumbled into pieces for easy removal Today I cut and broke 16' of concrete, and exposed the last bit of old pipe (patio).... tomorrow can finish new plumbing under house and connect to the new line already installed.

this is true, but the depth is less then 1/8" maybe less then a 1/16", I think was a flex fan on it and at high rpm it may have flexed. The only concern I have with them is the time involved to straighten them .... and if I think is worth it. ... would increase airflow. The guy had it in a 56 chevy pickup, he pulled it to work on the motor, then sold the truck. Just a used radiator. My current original radiator will give me a shower every time I goose the throttle. I am hoping this will be a improvement. Should get me on the road anyways, then replace as needed in future.

Guy advertised this for $50, claims there is no leaks. I dunno not time to check it yet. The size is almost perfect for a pilothouse, just a little shorter then OEM, has brackets on the side to accept carriage bolts to slide in, will be a breeze to mount it. It looks bad as is, the fins are black and full of dust, hoping it cleans up well, and then some time to straighten the fins .... for a daily driver, looks great with the hood closed. Will have to post a couple pics with it cleaned up and installed. The craftsmanship on it is awesome, there is a brass tag on the front with the builders name, a radiator shop in Louisiana. There is a small patch on the lower left, where the original drain was placed, they moved it to the lower right on the other side. Oh well, if it turns out to be junk, polish it up and hang it on the wall. I was poking a lil fun on Radaronwheels the other day, his drive and energy is incredible. I told him I picked up a radiator and was a full day for me. I got up at 5:00 am and drove 1.5 hours to pick it up, before the guy went to work, 3 hours round trip. Then got back to my plumbing issue at hand. I dug by hand and replaced 70' of sewer drain line, currently have the bathroom floor removed and digging a crawl space to get access and replace the rest of the plumbing. While I got the 70' ditch open, am filling it up with the dirt from under the house. Next time I have a plumbing issue I wont need to cut open the floor to work on it. .

yeah well, uh ... I picked up a radiator for my truck yesterday, yeah was a full day for me. Now to clean it up and install it GO GO GO! spring is on your tail

when will we have the "longest gray beard" award? Young un's with color do not count

Hit it with a hammer!

I actually think, but admit I was never paid to think. Beating or "massaging" the headers, was a acceptable way .... way back when Radarsonwheels was in diapers. I personally do not want to say if it was acceptable when I was a kid, would be a hint to age. Myself, I will stand by and hand the correct size hammer for the job.

wish it would work for 6 volt

I do not see this method approved in the official mopar manual, I suggest to follow the manual! ??? Is a great idea.

pretty late for my two cents, just saying. I have a B1C 3/4 ton with a 1/2 ton front end on it. I guarantee you, was a easy swap or the farmer would not have done it. Not sure how much difference between the 1 ton and 3/4 ton frames. I bet it would not be to bad of a swap.

yup, seems like exactly what I have. The purist will tell you to use 5/16" as original .... but if it was reduced to smaller why bother? Thinking I will stay 5/16" just because I can reuse the original fittings, everything will fit together. IMHO, I see no reason to stay 5/16" just because the factory did .... then jumped back and forth in sizes. And no, 5/16" is not a common size to buy at your local parts store.

for what is worth, I put a fuel pump on mine a couple weeks ago, bought it from napa. Not sure of the brand but probably made over seas. It works as advertised. For how long is another question.

I agree with Don, is amazing how much sand you will remove from the original casting of the block. I also needed to remove my water pump, and run stiff "farmers fence wire" through the distribution tube, And this was not a easy feat, but some effort and time I got the wire through and cleared the tube. Also what I found, what we call soft plugs, the size is 1 5/8", but they are really welsh plugs. The difference is the thickness, welsh plugs are almost flat metal, while soft plugs have a deep lip. The deep lip they stick to far out of the block and not sure if they would ever seal correctly. I just used my cordless drill with a self tapping screw and put a screw in the welsh plug, then used a bar to grab the screw and pull it out. Was simple. When installing my new welsh plugs, I wire brushed and cleaned everything good. I then put the plugs in dry, now they leak ... just a dribble but still leaks. I will need to pull them back out and add some sort of sealant to seal them. You will be surprised how much sand and dirt you pull out of that block. Before I started my truck would warm up and go straight to over heat stage. Now it can idle for a hour at 160, eventually climb to 180, then a fast idle and right back to 160. I am now ready to install a T-stat.

I will toss in my two cents, worth every penny you paid. I once had a 1959 chevy panel truck, while out in the Las Vegas sand dunes I hopped a hill and bent the tie rod bar. We drank another beer and laughed, bent it straight again and went home. The result was the rod would automagically bend again in the exact same place, hit a big pot hole, rub up against the curb while parking .... it was never the same after it was bent. Only thing I have to add, I would not spend too much time on a alignment, first fix the rod properly. I am thinking it may need to be heated and then dipped in oil , a few proper curse words added and then let it cool? This is what I would fix first. As a 20 year old kid, I have a lot of not - fond memories, of pulling up to the curb and the tie rod bending again, have to crawl under it and use the jack to bend it back again just to get back home. I think this can be cured, if you know metal better then a idiot.

The instructions from the kit gives a few different options to deal with the issue, depends what you are comfortable with.

Also the no-stick pans require you to use plastic cooking utensils, so you do not scratch the surface. I loved my old cast iron set, my wife complained about them because of the weight. I found the older steel pans, they are lighter and makes the wife happy and the care is the same as cast iron. I usually do all the cooking anyways. When I was working my wife did, we ate hamburger helper and canned spaghetti etc... I cook a lot on the grill while working in the shop, yesterday was pork ribs, smoking on low, I just add a small amount of charcoal to keep the heat low, air turned down so it smokes. The ribs are in a pan in a sauce that I make and covered with foil. Nothing burning and cooking for about 6 hours. I went to the grocery store and then stopped by and had the wifes car inspected for registration renewal. Can always toss on a potato and let it bake, when am done in the shop, wash up and make a side dish and dinner is ready. Local grocery sells local butcher pork roast. They are about 20 pounds, I cut it down into 2" steaks and freeze it, and eat all month off of it. Cook them on the grill same way, same as chicken. I enjoy cooking, I make a mean shrimp dish and have fish at least once a week.

Thinking my 86 ford van with the C-6 trans took 12 quarts to fill it .... when I swapped the trans and installed dry torque converter. But I looked that up on line somewhere .... you sure you have enough ATF? Maybe I am wrong and was not that much, but it was a stupid amount needed to fill it. I hate checking trans fluid, when you add a little bit, you have to let it sit overnight to drain down the tube and check it again in the morning. I would think that you would get some flow through the lines with 9 quarts though. But if you are 2 quarts low, I know my ford would not move without adding to it. Should be some site online that would tell you exactly how much your trans holds.

I get a little anal about the fry pans. I have 2 Empire steel from the 1800's. I cook on them daily and have for years. Only fry pan I own. I would not put them through the dishwasher. And same time, I am the dishwasher. But if I had a dishwasher, everything else could go in it .... not my fry pans ?

My brother needed a car, he told me about a car that he was going to go look at after work the next day. I went and looked at it while he was at work ... some sort of 1963 chrysler 4 door in really nice shape for $50. Needed a $5 part to drive it. I figured if my brother did not want it, I would fix and flip it myself. Just did not want to go back later with my brother and find it sold. When my brother got home from work and saw me working on the car in the driveway, I just kinda assumed he knew it was his car. I was telling him all about the great deal it was, how I fixed it and was working on this and that, Think I was 18 years old then. My older brother was getting pissed off, I had to run and get away from him, let him cool down so I could tell him I bought the car for him and not me. All worked out in the end, but will never forget that time

I like easy, which is why I am going to paint the pilothouse with single stage enamel. Paint everything like the fenders and bed rails while the truck is disassembled. I am not going to remove the cab from the frame, will be something will have to work around. The truck will be painted in stages, Right now am working on the front 1/2, dog house is off and prepping for paint, in process of detailing the frame, motor, firewall, core support. When is put back together, will start it up and turn it around in the car port, and disassemble the bed and work on the rear 1/2 of the truck. And in the end after all is painted and put back together, I expect to have to go back and fix issues, scratches from assembly bugs etc... and paint the truck one more time with it assembled. I could never get away with this using a 2 stage BC/CC Also the enamel has a old school look to it, the look I want for the pilothouse. It will work perfect on the old truck. My pilothouse is black from the factory. I want to paint the cab, doors, hood, bed sides red. The front/rear fenders, grille, running boards black. The enamel is my paint of choice to use on the Dakota. This is the paint I want to practice with, thinning, mixing, spraying, two tone etc... We are talking ~$30 a gallon at Ace hardware or Tractor supply. I want to see what the $30 paint looks like, does the red and black from tractor supply work together? Is it the paint I want, before I spray it on. Again, the pilothouse it will look like it is original and belongs there. The easiest paint to work with .... The Dakota is a new school truck with old school paint, is going to look like a pig wearing lipstick. As is, it simply looks like a pig. Soooo? Anyways we will see how it goes, I parked the pilothouse alongside the garage last night and parked the dakota in its place, to start working on it. Still to cold to paint, warming up next week and even more following week. So can get some prep work done.

My 49 pilothouse is black, I like to keep it original, same time in west texas black with no air conditioning will be hot and un-drive-able. Hoping to change the cab color to red, keep fenders/running boards black, and maybe will be a few degrees cooler driving it in summer. I really just want a practice run at spraying/prep work before painting my real truck. Even my chevy truck needs the hood touched up on base color and then clear coat worked over ... I want practice first..

Yes thank you, exactly what I am thinking. I created a few careers in my lifetime and know what experience means. We can read, watch, listen .... without getting your hands dirty you wont get it. My father inlaw use to buy new mopars, he had several, brother inlaw still has the 1976 duster his dad bought new. Was a 1995 dodge he bought new and the paint failed, he was not covered by the recall, and he drives jap cars today because of it .... sad story. Being ignorant, I was told years ago it was the primer that was the issue. As you say it is the base coat that peeled off of the primer. Either way, the issue is 25 years old, and was wondering if others had suggestions before I painted it. Any special steps to do. I am going with proper prep and paint as normal.