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Vet Doc

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  • Content Count

    33
  • Joined

  • Last visited

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Vet Doc last won the day on October 10

Vet Doc had the most liked content!

About Vet Doc

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Castleford, Idaho
  • Interests
    Family, outdoors, hunting, fishing, and shop work.
  • My Project Cars
    1948 B1B

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    Grew up a farm boy, now a rural veterinarian in the same small community.
  • Occupation
    Cow Veterinarian

Converted

  • Location
    Idaho
  • Interests
    Family, outdoors

Recent Profile Visitors

579 profile views
  1. When I replaced my pinion seal, I finally got the old one out with self-tapping sheet metal screws on either side in the seal and a slide hammer attached to vice grips. Worked great after trying several other ways with no success. The yolk shaft had a couple of large grooves and I had to fill those with JB Weld and put on a speedi-sleeve before reinstalling, but it seems to be good now.
  2. I requested mine from the above address in February and received a copy in March. I recall having to submit a copy of the title/proof of ownership that included the serial number. I don’t believe there was any fee and received a letter of explanation regarding some possible losses of records. Really, I was pretty amazed that it could still be found and appeared to be accurate.
  3. I don’t post many pictures, but I have enjoyed looking at everyone else’s projects so here’s what I’ve been able to accomplish with a lot of advice and information from everybody here. This has been a little over a year and half project to this point, with a lot more to go. Complete tear down and rebuild of my wife’s great uncle’s pickup that he bought new in 1948. It sat in a pasture since 1964 after his passing until we brought it to our place in May of 2018. It sure was a pretty cool moment when the motor fired for the first time in 55 years.
  4. So what about a 6 volt coil on 12 volts.
  5. Thanks for the information, that’s exactly the advice I was looking for. It is still the old school push button on the starter and positive ground, so your explanations make perfect sense. Given the fact that the vacuum advance diaphragm is no good, I am planning to plug the vacuum port, assuming that won’t make a difference. Also, my experience with other 6 volt systems and a current post regarding starters, I will probably use a 12 volt battery to power the outfit. The generator needs rebuilt but is acting as the belt tensioner, so I don’t plan on hooking in the battery. Todd
  6. I am working towards the same first start and nearing the point of placing the basic electrical connections. That said, I am looking for insight and instruction on connections. I have the block sitting in the frame without any body installed.
  7. Charlie-No, I haven’t seen one but will watch out for one. Thanks for all of the information...I suspected there would be great input and am not disappointed. If you’re bored, the listings for those pickups and a myriad of other vehicles is at https://www.usauctionid.com/auction/DaveTeeterRestorableVehicleAuction. That said, I hope y’all don’t show up and bid against me! TW
  8. Dodge Pickup - Dodge Pickup - 2 dr These pickups are going to be on an auction about an hour away. I am looking for body parts for a 48 B1B and they look better in the pictures than my current project. I will try to go to the auction and check the pillar tags, but just wondering what the models might be based on pictures. I know some of the rest of you can identify these much enter than myself, so I’m throwing out to the forum. I think the first one is 48-49 and the second one maybe 50-52, but that is as far as I would guess. What do you think?
  9. Sounds like a good idea to me. That would leave a collar to hold the screwdriver blade in place better also. Thanks.
  10. I have seen several posts and recommendations regarding using a ‘spare’ oil pump to fill the galleys and cycle oil through the engine with a flat blade on a drill prior to first start. I have a donor pump and removed the pin from the shaft just below the drive gear, but have not been able to remove the gear from the shaft. I didn’t want to be too aggressive with a press and haven’t disassembled the pump from the other end (cover plate and internal pump components). What have I missed?
  11. Here is the new tank with a single wire sender from Vic’s.
  12. I concur completely. While having been a member for some time, i didn’t post much because of reactions I have seen in other forums. After a couple of positive experiences and input, I couldn’t be more pleased with the support, information, and communication with members here. It’s a great help whether in searches of previous post or responses to current posts. Thanks to all. Todd
  13. I agree with your assessment. I expect to get the tank done for $500-600. I told my wife we weren’t doing this to save money...it’s the pickup that her mother learned to drive with when she was a kid. So far, that line of reasoning has gotten me a couple of upgrades.
  14. I looked at and seriously considered the older style tank from Tanks Inc, but after reading some previous posts regarding modifying the hole in the cab floor and/or the neck of the fuel spout, as well as the rear bracket modification, I continued to look at other options. I also like stainless tanks. About the same time, talking to a friend who has a fabrication shop, he asked me to drop the tank by so he could take some measurements and get me a price. He agreed to do it for a reasonable price (in stainless) and was local, so if I do have modifications, it will be easier. I will post when finished.
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