Los_Control

Not sure what to do with the armadillo, sure could use the catapult and mole chair, sign me up.

how many weeks you think that adds to the build? Not my intention, but when you get a tatoo artist and say "dont do this" I suspect radaronwheels is ready to kick us off the forums

Nick, I love that you love it. Everybody here respects your opinion. I admit to being old enough to know better, but I also may just paint my truck black as it came from the factory. I get a bit of a pass, I have a truck and if it is loaded with lumber and dirty at the same time, they not going to hit me as hard as a car with dirt on it Paint it pink if you want, one poster here used the chalkboard paint so people could write on his car. I really like this idea. The most important thing here, Take your time and enjoy the process. One thing I worry about, I see it happen to others, you get to be too much of a perfectionist, is going to cost money and project is delayed and eventually abandoned. JUST GET ER DID! and then move on to the next project. ..... girls, they are often sneaky and sometimes a bigger project then first thought .... building a 32 ford coupe could be easier. Keep us posted.

Probably best if you do not get ideas about tatoo'ing a tree in the wood, like this guy did

If only there was some sort of T molding made of rubber, you could fasten it to the sides of the wood, top would sit on the wood while sealing up against the bed sides. This would keep it looking clean on the edges.

just grabbed this off of facebook more food for thought

I did not realize we needed access under the floor. The angle strips will not work. But a clean line always looks good. Just like a 1/4" reveal on trim, it is expected. You do not need a 1/4, a 1/8" gap along the edges would look great. I would not over think it and just leave a gap you are comfortable with. The bigger the gap the easier it is to lift it up .... could even go with some sort of strip of rubber over the wood to seal it to the bed sides, just to keep the dirt out. You know the dirt is going to accumulate there, will need to lift the floor to clean it ... no big deal but maybe you could make it easier if you think about cleaning while building?

I am partial to natural oil. Goes on clear, but the wood ages and gets a natural patina. It is not instant gratification, for example pine, looks white and blah. But in 6 months it starts to get color, 1 year it is "wow thats pretty cool" couple years down the road, it has a color you cant really duplicate with stain. And the wood you have is already beautiful, I personally would not try to add color to change it. And even more important when I was working, I tried to keep everybody using the same natural so it was easier for me doing touch up Sounds like your plan is fine, leave some room so it can expand/contract with weather, the shovel strips will cover the gaps, drill your holes slightly larger then the bolts so they can expand. When you lock it down tight, then it has a better chance to buckle and crack. On the edges from factory is a strip of angle attached to the side of bed and the wood slides under it, acts the same as a shovel strip and allows you to leave a gap.

my biggest complaint with all the oils is it drying out. In the heat. And sikkens with cetol d, last the longest. Sikkens sells stain without the cetol d, and it dries out quickly also. Good chance if penofin had cetol d in it, I would be shouting from the roof tops to use it. I have no clue what cetol d is I have worked with wood a lot, here is the first floor of a 2 story addition we built, the vigas are in the living room .... these got sikkens on them. Not sure if I have anymore photos of it finished, lost a lot over the past 5 years when I got sick. (dont beat me up over the 2x4 walls, we framed it twice to make the walls 12" thick, this is first layer.)

Fair enough, I think location also has something to do with it. I spent my last 15 years working in New Mexico, A lot of heat and sun. I now live in west Texas where there is even more heat and sun. So my comparisons are in extreme conditions. I also sold quality work, customers wanted quality products. They do not want to call me back every 2 years to do the same job over and over. I needed something that would hold up and last. What I love about oil, you can tell when it is drying up and no longer protecting the wood. Wash the dirt off and apply more. And honestly, here in town I only have a ace hardware and they sell penofin. I have to order the sikkens or they offered to order it for me. The penofin may work great in areas where I do not live. ggdad the deck looks great

something for you to remember, penofin is oil just like the sikkens. A gallon of penofin you can apply a new coat every 6 months for years to come, will always look fresh. A gallon of oil goes a long ways and a pickup bed does not need much. I just like the sikkens after using both. They both do the same job.

I can only add, as a carpenter in Albuquerque New Mexico, I used sikkens for years. It was the only product that held up for me. I am talking exterior vigas, fences, decks, any exterior wood it did the job. For maintenance, I come back 5 years later and it looks a little rough, but the finish is still working, I have seen some pieces go 7 years in New Mexico sun. A few homes I came back every 3 years and brushed on new oil, keep it looking new. The key is the cetol D, sikkens sells a cheaper brand without cetol, and it is equal to penofin. IMHO Now I see it appears that sikkens sold off and the link I posted, claims same recipe as sickens but a new name. You kinda want to question why if you had a quality product, why would you offer a crappy product with your name on it? Sikkens with cetol D I like and stand behind Sikkens without cetol D is garbage I can see where bad reviews will come into play if not separating cetol and non cetol.

Of course as a carpenter, I say more support is better. You may only want to haul sportsters, then one day you get stuck with a dresser. Same time you are a big boy, I bet if you are not sitting on the dresser, your truck as is will be fine. What would it take to install one more cross brace? Ipe is strong, has limitations. If you like it, I love it

not saying it is cheap, but the results are important. penofin is $30, sikkens with cetol is $60 https://www.amazon.com/Cetol-SRD-Natural-1-Gallon/dp/B001PICI42

I hate the penofin, just garbage every time I got stuck using it .... and embarrassing. I do like sikkens with cetrol D If you can find that, it works really well in the south. apply it once and 7 years later it can use another coat. While penofin is garbage in 6 months.

I am saying, by ear and feel, the engine seems to run good. By doing the test, I know my valves fail and I need to give them attention. Possibly just a valve adjustment? The engine has been sitting many years and I refuse to open it up until I drive it and see if the rings expand and the valves start seating better. So I am saying, after waking this motor up from a deep sleep, I am pleased with it. But using the highly technical dollar bill test, I am being warned and I need to pay attention to the valves. I will drive the truck and then repeat the test as needed to monitor improvements.

After moving, not a lot of time to get setup but slowly working on it. I am in the process of trimming trees and bushes in the backyard. I have a city dump on the edge of town where I can haul it all for free. This is what I am setting back and when I am at the dump, I usually bring another branch or two home with me ? Here is a photo of my new rocking chair will be sitting on the back porch .... if I see a neighbor pulling out a stump, I will be over looking for free curly twisted roots to make table legs out of. Just need to get the stuff off the ground and drying so will be ready to work with sooner then later. And the dogs will quit dragging it all over the back yard

I am not sure if my truck has the J style nuts in the floor like you show, have to go look .... what I do have on the inner fenders and everywhere else on the body, is the acme style. Most are in good shape, I suspect they were used because they were cheap and easy on the assembly line. I am replacing them with a standard grade 5 nut bolt washers, I will consider it a upgrade. While the j style photo with a nut, I like those and we need something like that on the toe boards.

actually I am too lazy to pull the plugs to insert the camera. I just hang a dollar bill over the end of the exhaust while it is running. In theory, the motor is a air pump and should push the dollar bill out .... period. If the dollar bill gets sucked back and pushed out and back and forth, time to pull the head. I claim my motor runs smooth and plenty of power, it does not pass the dollar bill test, almost ripped the bill in 1/2 As for the camera, such a cool item now that the price is reasonable. I suspect everybody will eventually own one, plumbers, carpenters, mechanics, porn stars .....

I would be concerned if the train had a bar car with comfy stools

I was thinking if you were under the car and it fell, that might kill you.

5'5" 150 pounds, my pilothouse cab is bigger then my first apartment

depends on the O's Sometimes we go O While others we go OO Then some other times we snicker inbetween

Thanks for your valued opinions Bob thanks for letting me ride along, I was just hoping to get a opinion for rebuilding the original while only seeing swap info, thus why I asked My box seems to not have much play sitting in driveway, but one never knows. Once you wake them from a long sleep and get a few miles on them, things will show up.

I have a bandana for daisy, she just a year old puppy and she and her hound dog sissy play so rough, I have to go out in the yard and find her collar. Maybe in another year she settle down and play dress up