Los_Control

Something I really need to consider. Many know I started with Molly my 49 B1C, Then moved 1800 miles away, now Molly is sitting at my Uncles place. I bought another 1949 B1B .... Just cost to move Molly 1800 miles is starting to ramp up, I need the spare parts, if I had Molly here I could make a second truck. I know that I can not sell the parts in the current condition and expect to get rich. For the price of gas money I could buy another parts truck local. Yet I have a bunch of spare parts stored over there, a rebuilt 218 engine, a brand new gas tank / sending unit from tanksrus in a box, a new engine gasket set ... I have a 52 parts truck sitting there that is partially stripped, I gave it away already, but yet to be picked up ... I have the radiator, heater gauges already stored away ..... I have a lot of extra parts. I have no choice I have to drive 1800 miles one way to pick them up and drive them another 1800 miles to get them home ...... sometimes wish could just turn a blind eye and buy new stock local

small block tree fifty

wonders what a 60's radio back there would look like

I use a computer and of course monitor in the garage, the thin flat screen monitors would be same as a tv. I brought my screen in as not in the garage so much right now. I have stored flat screen monitors in the shed before, and if you bring them in and let them warm up before you turn them on, they are fine. I also have brought them in and not let them warm up, turn one on and it started to work for about 20 seconds and then it fried. imho, is fine to leave them in the garage, just do not turn them on if near freezing temps.

yeah this is true, but in the past you could be walking across the grocery store parking lot, and hear a mopar 5 rows away starting up!

Loose connections is the main cause of any sparks. Aluminum wiring inside of homes was common in the 70's, the heat and expansion contraction caused too many loose connections. As main wiring from the service poles to the house, still used today and not a issue. Anytime you get a loose connection, you going to get sparks and later fire if you get enough sparks. If no sparks, you would get wires overheating until threw a breaker. I once plugged in a 100' extension cord, tossed the end over by the tile saw. The end of the cord fell directly into a 5 gallon bucket of water ... never popped a breaker, and was a very dangerous situation if handled wrong. I do not claim to be a expert on electricity, if you are seeing sparks there is a serious issue and usually a loose connection. What causes the loose connection can vary. How you deal with the loose connection can save your life.

That is great success, I also hope to return part time to work. Really is a one day at a time and just keep pushing to get there .... Congratulations on the rewards for your efforts.

just to add to this, also some will take the battery and roll it down a hill. Corrosion builds up between the plates, rolling it down the hill will knock the crap loose, then drain, clean & refill

Be more concerned with the plastic fuel filter next to the exhaust .... gives me the heebie jeebies just looking at it

just saying, pull the dog house and do other needed maintenance while there

pflaming I know nothing about these flat 6's I had a toyota pickup that the timing chain stretched so much it slapped against the timing chain cover. I put a new chain and gears on it, ran like new. As it stretched, the timing would change as you gave it gas or let off the gas, I suspect eventually it could break, but the change in timing and the slap against the case is very annoying. My current project is the 49 dodge, using a stick to find noises, my chain is very noisy, I suspect a stretched chain, while the engine and valves seem quiet. My truck I have the dog house off, very simple to get to the issues I need to address, I need to set the valves, paint the frame, new brakes ... is all easier with the doghouse off. I have to ask myself, would I remove the doghouse for a timing chain? I dont think so. Same time, it really may be easier. flat head ford distributor, you have to stand on your head under the car to adjust the points .... removing the doghouse is a convenience.

wonders if paint is required .... sigh

vega and chevy monza was basically the same car, and the monza had a factory v8 as a option. Yeah a small car but they seemed built heavy enough for the factory to use a v8. Of course all the aluminum vega motors died a quick death and v-8's were often installed. Was pretty much a bolt in with off the shelf parts. Yeah vegas were small cars, but built pretty well compared to a foreign car of the time period.

No doubt you need to pre drill, because of the hardness of the wood, you are going to need some strong screws. I know they make some really strong ss screws, I have never found any. Just something else to chew on.

Damn that is pure porn, really like how it is coming out

another idea, you could cut a 1/4" notch in the sides of the shovel strips, you still butt into it on top, but small drain holes on the sides for water. I just think when you tighten the bolts down the trim will bend and distort the pretty shovel strips. I also think showing less fasteners is cleaner, but is a personal choice.

Question, are you still planning to lift the bed floor out as one piece for future maintenance? If so, I would be tempted to use some screws from under the floor boards, up into the trim. The heads would be hidden, 3 screws in each board would keep the floor from racking at a diagonal when lifting it up? Then you would butt your shovel strips to the trim, maybe add a drainage hole somewhere?

yup yup yup, love that one. I like the idea going to a modern radial tire. I do not think those wheels you have are true widow makers, looks like regular spit ring and think they call them California bud wheels (bolt pattern/center section) May be difficult to find the 22.5 wheels for those but I never tried. Either way, the current wheels you have should be no problem getting tires repaired at a truck stop. Truck looks great as yard art

My Uncle got a preview, neighbors complaining and code enforcement showed up. Kids drove 200 miles and started hauling everything straight to the scrappers. Just because you love them, does not mean your kids will.

I tend to agree, I looked at the link to see what we were talking about, My first thought is neither will be on my car/truck ... then read pa post. I will add that this will create controversy, many think that loder does not belong in automotive as it is not flexible enough for vibrations. Some say we need crimp on butt connectors for automotive Some will only use solid metal connectors with a shrink tube sleeve <--- I like this one The other connectors have a plastic sleeve on them, basically you smash them flat and hope they work. 1 in 20 may fail in a few years, rewire a whole car and adds up. While the others will work as long as you own the automobile

Sheesh what a score, I would build a new driveway for that ol girl .... you are a lucky man to be the caretaker.

The goal was to get the family together for outdoor fun time. Of course mother was so busy, she simply had no time for such shenanigans.

That really looks nice, You get a atta boy from me

Almost like cheating, is underneath and nobody going to see it, meat that is left is now very manageable. And the end result is nice. Little putty, little paint, make this ol carpenter what he aint.

I have never worked with ipe before, sounds like it is tough to cut. Is it possible to back cut at a angle the edge boards, this would remove material on the bottom and leave the top. Then take a #2 pencil and scribe the edges, tracing the sides to the wood. Then use your grinder with 80 grit paper and grind to the line .... this will get you real tight, also can adjust the taper issue so the middle board is cut straight. This is how I would tackle oak or other woods, You can get a fit so tight that cant slide a hair through, then pull the board away from the sides for proper reveal, any adjusting I would want to do it on the edge boards. Making a straight 90 degree cut on the edges is tough to get a tight fit. Especially if the bed rails lean a bit or you have round corners on the wheel wells. Your cuts look really good though. If you could picture using your grinder and grind at a 20 degree angle on the bottom side of the edges. Then the top side that you see is thinner, but on the edges and fine ... and the thin wood with a steady hand, you can easily grind to the line you scribe'd. Same time use a square and math and figure out how much to remove from each edge, to square up the hole in the center. If possible, adjusting the edge boards to eliminate the problem is the correct way. Same time, you could just cut the center board to fit and drop it in.