Los_Control

This is going to sound silly ... thinking out loud If by chance the battery cables to the battery got reversed, negative ground instead of positive, would the amp gauge show a discharge instead of a + charge? Just a thought, sure you would not make that mistake. ... Me, you never know

why did I automatically go to Elmer Fudd?

I am not sure how much moonshine weighs, maybe if pflaming does not haul the shine, may be ok?

When I lived in Albuquerque ... a lifetime ago, we had a spring shop down the road, they would re-arch springs on semi trucks, just like new again. How long they last I have no clue, for my E250 work van, was drop it off and $250 they re-arched them ... pretty cheap for the labor involved.

I remember wearing bell bottoms, I was in grade school at the time .... no suit for me Quick edit, I love the seat covers

you suggesting we a bunch of cheap ol farts here?

I recently bought a dodge dakota, gave the owner the asking price of $300 ... I almost wish I gave him $300 and let him keep the truck. Next day, I had paid for the truck and was just airing up the tires to drive it home. A kid showed up and said he knew someone that would pay $400. I honestly would have let the kid have it for That money, just kept my $300 and let the seller get $400 ... but it was all talk. I gave the money already, the kid showed up with talk of someone else that would pay more .... get the cash out and quit talking is what I said. And now I am stuck with it, runs good. It may turn out to be a nice beater with a heater, not what I need in West Texas. One thing I will add, I am not a big "patina" fan .... that Desoto has some Bad Ass patina that I would like to keep.

Anyone know whats up with this guy? He has been real active up until March 4th, then nothing ... I wonder if anyone has contact with him?

Oooh I could tell stories about U-joints .... not only do they wear out and get loose, grease dries out and they get tight. Really need to pull the drive line to inspect properly. I bet they would love to be disassembled and givin some love, good cleaning and fresh grease ... cant hurt a thing. My off topic chevy is acting like it may have a u-joint going bad, I need to do the same, just to eliminate them from the picture.

thats a great idea

I always liked Christmas packages .... Cant believe you went there and did all your mathematical calculations ... why not just buy it for that price and drag it home? I feel sorry for the seller trying to get rid of his junk.

For some reason I liked the looks, it seems old school to me. With the curved top and the neck for the cap. Lot of effort went into the cap, Is a skin that goes over a off the shelf cap. A new aluminum radiator I guess ~ $350-$450, I wonder what it might cost to have this one re-cored? Either way, this one if it does not leak now, may get me around for a year or so while I shake out the bugs. I always thought buying this house would be good physical therapy for me to regain my health, is proving to be effective. I have all the old cast iron plumbing removed from under the house, was nice it crumbled into pieces for easy removal Today I cut and broke 16' of concrete, and exposed the last bit of old pipe (patio).... tomorrow can finish new plumbing under house and connect to the new line already installed.

this is true, but the depth is less then 1/8" maybe less then a 1/16", I think was a flex fan on it and at high rpm it may have flexed. The only concern I have with them is the time involved to straighten them .... and if I think is worth it. ... would increase airflow. The guy had it in a 56 chevy pickup, he pulled it to work on the motor, then sold the truck. Just a used radiator. My current original radiator will give me a shower every time I goose the throttle. I am hoping this will be a improvement. Should get me on the road anyways, then replace as needed in future.

Guy advertised this for $50, claims there is no leaks. I dunno not time to check it yet. The size is almost perfect for a pilothouse, just a little shorter then OEM, has brackets on the side to accept carriage bolts to slide in, will be a breeze to mount it. It looks bad as is, the fins are black and full of dust, hoping it cleans up well, and then some time to straighten the fins .... for a daily driver, looks great with the hood closed. Will have to post a couple pics with it cleaned up and installed. The craftsmanship on it is awesome, there is a brass tag on the front with the builders name, a radiator shop in Louisiana. There is a small patch on the lower left, where the original drain was placed, they moved it to the lower right on the other side. Oh well, if it turns out to be junk, polish it up and hang it on the wall. I was poking a lil fun on Radaronwheels the other day, his drive and energy is incredible. I told him I picked up a radiator and was a full day for me. I got up at 5:00 am and drove 1.5 hours to pick it up, before the guy went to work, 3 hours round trip. Then got back to my plumbing issue at hand. I dug by hand and replaced 70' of sewer drain line, currently have the bathroom floor removed and digging a crawl space to get access and replace the rest of the plumbing. While I got the 70' ditch open, am filling it up with the dirt from under the house. Next time I have a plumbing issue I wont need to cut open the floor to work on it. .

yeah well, uh ... I picked up a radiator for my truck yesterday, yeah was a full day for me. Now to clean it up and install it GO GO GO! spring is on your tail

when will we have the "longest gray beard" award? Young un's with color do not count

Hit it with a hammer!

I actually think, but admit I was never paid to think. Beating or "massaging" the headers, was a acceptable way .... way back when Radarsonwheels was in diapers. I personally do not want to say if it was acceptable when I was a kid, would be a hint to age. Myself, I will stand by and hand the correct size hammer for the job.

wish it would work for 6 volt

I do not see this method approved in the official mopar manual, I suggest to follow the manual! ??? Is a great idea.

pretty late for my two cents, just saying. I have a B1C 3/4 ton with a 1/2 ton front end on it. I guarantee you, was a easy swap or the farmer would not have done it. Not sure how much difference between the 1 ton and 3/4 ton frames. I bet it would not be to bad of a swap.

yup, seems like exactly what I have. The purist will tell you to use 5/16" as original .... but if it was reduced to smaller why bother? Thinking I will stay 5/16" just because I can reuse the original fittings, everything will fit together. IMHO, I see no reason to stay 5/16" just because the factory did .... then jumped back and forth in sizes. And no, 5/16" is not a common size to buy at your local parts store.

for what is worth, I put a fuel pump on mine a couple weeks ago, bought it from napa. Not sure of the brand but probably made over seas. It works as advertised. For how long is another question.

I agree with Don, is amazing how much sand you will remove from the original casting of the block. I also needed to remove my water pump, and run stiff "farmers fence wire" through the distribution tube, And this was not a easy feat, but some effort and time I got the wire through and cleared the tube. Also what I found, what we call soft plugs, the size is 1 5/8", but they are really welsh plugs. The difference is the thickness, welsh plugs are almost flat metal, while soft plugs have a deep lip. The deep lip they stick to far out of the block and not sure if they would ever seal correctly. I just used my cordless drill with a self tapping screw and put a screw in the welsh plug, then used a bar to grab the screw and pull it out. Was simple. When installing my new welsh plugs, I wire brushed and cleaned everything good. I then put the plugs in dry, now they leak ... just a dribble but still leaks. I will need to pull them back out and add some sort of sealant to seal them. You will be surprised how much sand and dirt you pull out of that block. Before I started my truck would warm up and go straight to over heat stage. Now it can idle for a hour at 160, eventually climb to 180, then a fast idle and right back to 160. I am now ready to install a T-stat.

I will toss in my two cents, worth every penny you paid. I once had a 1959 chevy panel truck, while out in the Las Vegas sand dunes I hopped a hill and bent the tie rod bar. We drank another beer and laughed, bent it straight again and went home. The result was the rod would automagically bend again in the exact same place, hit a big pot hole, rub up against the curb while parking .... it was never the same after it was bent. Only thing I have to add, I would not spend too much time on a alignment, first fix the rod properly. I am thinking it may need to be heated and then dipped in oil , a few proper curse words added and then let it cool? This is what I would fix first. As a 20 year old kid, I have a lot of not - fond memories, of pulling up to the curb and the tie rod bending again, have to crawl under it and use the jack to bend it back again just to get back home. I think this can be cured, if you know metal better then a idiot.