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TFC last won the day on May 29

TFC had the most liked content!

About TFC

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

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  • Gender
  • My Project Cars
    1952 Dodge B3B

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    Retired computer guy
  • Occupation
    Retired computer guy


  • Location
    Parsonsfield Maine
  • Interests
    old cars, woodworking

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  1. Had the same issue with my 52 B3B 3 speed transmission, shafts were leaking/weeping at both ends(front and back). For the back I made a cover(brass "box" soldered together) and rubber gasket. For the front I made a shim/gasket that covered the entire mating surface of the trans to flywheel housing from 5 mil brass shim stock, the brass extends below the mating surface to cover the area where the shaft is uncovered, during assembly a used some RTV in the area of the shaft. No leaks, yet...
  2. This truck came to me with a Mass inspection sticker from 1968, pretty sure it has not been on the road since then. Have been working on this just a bit over year, body/paint done before but needed much mechanical attention, engine rebuilt - brakes - steering - drivetrain, just about anything you could think of needed something done to it. Finally on the road again!!! Still need some "bugs" worked out, but runs good and I just love driving him. Have preened a lot of knowledge and info from you guys - THANKS.
  3. OK guys, appreciate all the input, here's what I did. Guess I went "rogue" on this, have had luck repairing/patching a rusted through oil pan and differential cover with this method. Brass shim stock and RTV silicon, kind of a Band-aid approach. Thoroughly cleaned the area, generously coated the "Band-Aid" with RTV and applied, let it sit 24 hours before refilling the system. No leaks so far and the patch sits behind the oil filter and is hard to see, this gets me pass this leak(at least for a while) and allows me to get on with all the other stuff I need to do to get him back on the road.
  4. Thanks guys Merle, Looking over the internal wiring of the gauge I can see that it actually requires grounding to make connection to end of one of the coils. Keven, Yes I read 27 ohms between the posts , so that lines up. What I'm not sure about now is which terminal is tied to the sender unit and which is tied to the power from the ignition switch. SW - ties to ignition switch(power)? GA - ties to sender unit? Also wondering what the max/min resistance of the sender unit should be, mine is currently reading 93 ohm with maybe 4/5 gallons in the tank
  5. Fooling around with the gas gauge this morning, trouble shooting this system. There are few indication that the gauge mount is to be isolated from the ground of the vehicle(paper gasket and paper washers under mounting screws). Any insight on this will be appreciated.
  6. Thanks for the observation, Sure hope I did not cause this, did switch from bolts to studs/nuts with this rebuilt. Yes, I did dial the torque back(55ft lbs) as required with the fine pitch thread.
  7. Ken, Thanks of the input, particularly about the stop drilling. My preference would be not to drill especially since it seems impossible to find the ends.
  8. Thank for all the input. Spent sometime on this problem yesterday. Drained coolant, got in there with my dremel and sandpaper, my intent was to clean area up see extent of the crack, drill ends to stop its growth. After cleaning the area found it very hard to see the crack even with a magnifying glass. Had to refill with coolant to get it to weep again just to see where it is. My thinking now is to punt, just run a block sealer in the coolant and see what happens. Good Idea?
  9. Thanks guys, Was thinking about running a sealant in the coolant. Also thought about drilling the ends, grinding a trough and filling it with the ever popular "JB Weld". Jan, curious why you would not drill all the way through?
  10. Been working on getting my 52 B3B back on the road, ran into a coolant leak I was not expecting. Pic attached. Not sure what my best option is here, not really up for pulling the engine out again. Any advice is greatly appreciated.
  11. Dog House back on! Thanks guys, used rubber shims made from radiator hose for the fender attaching points and large metal flat washers for the radiator support.
  12. Thanks ggddad1951, makes perfect sense. What about the front center mount under the radiator? Mine only had large flat washers when I took it apart.
  13. Engine is in and I'm finally ready to install the "dog house" on my 52 B3B. Looking over how the attachment was handle before there are quite a few rubber pads/shims that were used wondering if this is the way this should be done. Seems like the brackets have a fair amount of adjustment built into them to handle the alignment? Should I use rubber mounts on the attachment points? Any insight as to the best way/original way this should be handled would be appreciated. Pics attached.
  14. Have you considered looking for another steering box, one in better shape? I bought a 52 B3B at the beginning of last year, the steering box was in the same condition as yours, pitted/galled worm&sector. totally unusable. Spent some time looking around, for parts and or rebuilders. Came across the web site http://www.uneedapart.com/used-steering-boxes.php. Long shot, but why not try it, filled out forms and in a couple of days heard back from a salvage yard in Arizona, Hidden Valley Auto Parts. They said the box was clean and in good shape, think I paid $250 plus $75 for shipping. Arrived "As advertised" worm&sector perfect, only needed to replace the sector seal.
  15. Thanks for the advice. Looks fairly clean in there(some rust but not scaly). Will find a wire brush to help make sure the "path" is clear of any scale/built-up. The tube I plan on using is the second one purchased, the first one seemed way to bulky(too thick/tall). The second looks/measures a lot closer to the one I pulled out. I will add, wish I could have found a brass one...
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