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TFC last won the day on May 29 2019

TFC had the most liked content!

About TFC

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

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  • Gender
  • My Project Cars
    1952 Dodge B3B

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  • Biography
    Retired computer guy
  • Occupation
    Retired computer guy


  • Location
    Parsonsfield Maine
  • Interests
    old cars, woodworking

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  1. Yeah, with a little searching I did find part# and sources: Found original Mopar part# from Pilothouse web site(PDF of truck parts manual) 619167 Found cross reference part# from this site Timken or Federal Mogul 1207SL
  2. Radarsonwheels, thought I would try brakleen and maybe get through the summer. Now I'm wondering if anybody has input on where to find a replacement bearing with a shield? Thanks...
  3. Thanks dodgeb4ya, that seems like the problem, no shield on the bearing. Next question: Easy job to pull the input shaft and replace the bearing or do I need to disassemble the transmission to get this done right?
  4. I did install a rebuilt clutch plate and disc when I had it all apart, think those are good. Always leaves a fair amount of transmission oil on the tray I keep under it in the garage. Guess I would say It is not really slipping, it's more grabby and not smooth, takes a lot of "finesse" to start off in first or reverse. I have removed the flywheel cover and saw that the end of the input shaft housing was wet with tranny oil, One thing I did notice when I had transmission out, looks like the input shaft bearing has no built in shield, have seen other vehicles that have shield/baffle(my model A Ford has this set-up). Wondering if there is a better bearing with a shield available?
  5. Thanks for the info JBNeal, going to have to pull transmission eventually to check this out, may be awhile though...
  6. Got my 53 B3B on the road last year, went through most of the mechanics i.e. engine, drive train, brakes etc. A few issues but over all runs good, biggest problem, the clutch has been fouled with oil and more specifically transmission oil, seems as though oil is coming out of the input shaft housing. FTR: This is a "3 on the tree" transmission. Have not pulled the transmission out yet to check this out yet, even with this lousy clutch been enjoying driving him too much to dry dock. Curious if anybody has any experience with this? Also, did not notice a "vent hole" anywhere on the top of the casing, should there be one? I will add oil type and level are correct and that the few gaskets/seals that there are on this transmission have been replaced. Thanks...
  7. Had the same issue, this is what I did about a year ago, cap made from brass and soldered, rubber gasket at the base, still holding and dry.
  8. Had the same issue with my 52 B3B 3 speed transmission, shafts were leaking/weeping at both ends(front and back). For the back I made a cover(brass "box" soldered together) and rubber gasket. For the front I made a shim/gasket that covered the entire mating surface of the trans to flywheel housing from 5 mil brass shim stock, the brass extends below the mating surface to cover the area where the shaft is uncovered, during assembly a used some RTV in the area of the shaft. No leaks, yet...
  9. This truck came to me with a Mass inspection sticker from 1968, pretty sure it has not been on the road since then. Have been working on this just a bit over year, body/paint done before but needed much mechanical attention, engine rebuilt - brakes - steering - drivetrain, just about anything you could think of needed something done to it. Finally on the road again!!! Still need some "bugs" worked out, but runs good and I just love driving him. Have preened a lot of knowledge and info from you guys - THANKS.
  10. OK guys, appreciate all the input, here's what I did. Guess I went "rogue" on this, have had luck repairing/patching a rusted through oil pan and differential cover with this method. Brass shim stock and RTV silicon, kind of a Band-aid approach. Thoroughly cleaned the area, generously coated the "Band-Aid" with RTV and applied, let it sit 24 hours before refilling the system. No leaks so far and the patch sits behind the oil filter and is hard to see, this gets me pass this leak(at least for a while) and allows me to get on with all the other stuff I need to do to get him back on the road.
  11. Thanks guys Merle, Looking over the internal wiring of the gauge I can see that it actually requires grounding to make connection to end of one of the coils. Keven, Yes I read 27 ohms between the posts , so that lines up. What I'm not sure about now is which terminal is tied to the sender unit and which is tied to the power from the ignition switch. SW - ties to ignition switch(power)? GA - ties to sender unit? Also wondering what the max/min resistance of the sender unit should be, mine is currently reading 93 ohm with maybe 4/5 gallons in the tank
  12. Fooling around with the gas gauge this morning, trouble shooting this system. There are few indication that the gauge mount is to be isolated from the ground of the vehicle(paper gasket and paper washers under mounting screws). Any insight on this will be appreciated.
  13. Thanks for the observation, Sure hope I did not cause this, did switch from bolts to studs/nuts with this rebuilt. Yes, I did dial the torque back(55ft lbs) as required with the fine pitch thread.
  14. Ken, Thanks of the input, particularly about the stop drilling. My preference would be not to drill especially since it seems impossible to find the ends.
  15. Thank for all the input. Spent sometime on this problem yesterday. Drained coolant, got in there with my dremel and sandpaper, my intent was to clean area up see extent of the crack, drill ends to stop its growth. After cleaning the area found it very hard to see the crack even with a magnifying glass. Had to refill with coolant to get it to weep again just to see where it is. My thinking now is to punt, just run a block sealer in the coolant and see what happens. Good Idea?
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