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Radarsonwheels

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Radarsonwheels last won the day on January 6

Radarsonwheels had the most liked content!

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About Radarsonwheels

  • Rank
    Zen Master, I breathe vintage mopar!

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Bucks County PA
  • Interests
    I like loud dangerous steel things
  • My Project Cars
    '86 ramcharger '73 swinger '54 3/4 ton

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    Ex-Harley wrench
  • Occupation
    Commercial artist

Converted

  • Location
    Levittown PA
  • Interests
    Wrenching, drawing on people

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  1. You need a strategically hooked piece of thick bailing wire and A lot of patience! Thanks for the warning though! I might have a window cut in the pillar at first but re-assembly could be tricky. I’ll be careful for sure
  2. And more goodies in the mail! My upholstered luon door cards are much thicker than the stock vinyl covered cardboard so I had to re-drill the square shafts a little farther out from the stock holes for the retaining pins. The driver’s side was a tight fit tapping the pin home which is a good thing right up until the original pin mushroomed bent and got stuck. I ended up using a little piece of drill bit stock to hold the other side but now it is a little angled and will never come off without destroying the crank handle. So I ordered a new one. Soon the old one will get destroyed and I will do a ton of work to the door. I need to re-skin the bottom 1/2 of the door and bottom, make a rear lower window track to hold the (felt? Fabric?) channel that’s just hanging down right now, put in a new piece of glass (possibly an inch or two taller so it comes even with the sill at full down instead of dropping into the door). And of course the crank pivot will probably need to be removed so I can drive out the remnants of pin and re-drill a properly sized hole dead straight on the drillpress. I want to replace the crunchy area in the hinge pillar with new steel- it looks like the actual hinge slips inside the pillar and the four bolt holes have a little room for adjustment as the bolts locate the hinge by pinching the pillar between the hinge inside and bolts/washers outside. I’m also considering cutting out an access panel to make welding in the glass track a little easier. Somewhere that it can get welded back together and the seam hidden by the door card. I’m probably going to end up just pulling the door off the truck to repair it. This might be a good time to invest in one of those fancy automotive painter’s padded scissor folding sawhorse stands. I’d love to hear any helpful advice from you guys who have dove deep on door repair and replacement. Are new bushings and pins available like for 70s cars?
  3. I pulled the lockstrip half at a time and caulked the windshield gasket inside and out, then finished weatherstripping the doors and re-did the gaskets on the backs of the vent windows. Fingers crossed the next rain stays out of the truck!
  4. Well I didn’t have to wait long for a good rain- it was coming down pretty much all day while I was at work. I still have a nice drip down each dashboard corner. The driver’s side looks like the glass channel in the gasket is overflowing and spilling out. The truck was parked on a slight hill so 3/4 of the glass channel was pitched down that way. I still have most of a tube of bedding compound so it looks like I’ll need to seal up all around the glass side of the gasket against the glass. The passenger side leak seems to be coming from inside the dash up where the pinch weld comes together so I’ll have to also caulk the outside of the gasket as well. No big deal. I’ll wait for it to dry out and re-caulk and lockstrip it tomorrow. Surprisingly the doors are holding pretty well. It was really nice to have a good all day soaking so I could really get a report card on how well it was sealing. It’s still a million times better. I also was mildly annoyed by a foggy windshield on my way home. Time to put the heater core and defroster hoses on the list to get done soon, but carrying a small towel in the truck is working in the meantime. Do everybody’s trucks leak in the rain? Or do you all keep them inside?
  5. I took stock dakota hangers, flipped them sideways so my slapper bars could still hit the front spring eyes, enlarged the pivot hole to take the bigger bolt, moved them up and back for the static chassis drop, and plated/reinforced them into the frame rail. But I have over 500 ft/lbs just off idle so I wasn’t messing around. I also cut off the rear hangers and moved them to get the shackle angle right. look on page 3 of my build thread you can see them getting located and tacked in before I reinforced them
  6. Thanks GGdad That thought crossed my mind too. I was also thinking a piece cut from say 14g sheetmetal and welded on flat would be long lasting and not too fragile, then it could be gently hammered over some 3/8” round stock as a buck, but not too curved so it can be cleaned out (and the buck can be removed)
  7. I put the wipers back on and drove to work in a drizzle today. Bone dry floors so far! I can’t believe the difference in my view! I feel like I’ve been wearing glasses that were handled by a toddler eating pancakes this whole time and finally cleaned them!
  8. Hey so I have the dart A-body xhd six leaf springs under my truck- maybe I can help out with some info you might already know. -the front segment of the springs is shorter than the rear. This is good because it is stiffer and can act more like a trailing arm while the back of the spring does more of the work flexing. This gives less spring wrap and pinion angle change on acceleration but you might need to move your front spring perches back to center the wheels in the tubs. -where ever your shackle perches end up you want them in front of the rear spring eye with the weight of the truck on them. Any position that holds up the truck and doesn’t bind will work but under acceleration the rear spring eye actually moves forward as the spring wraps up, which is a little counterintuitive- seems like the spring would get longer not shorter. Anyway, the bottom shackle eye moves in an arc below the upper shackle perch so when it’s vertical it is lifting the chassis up the highest it can go. If you have the bottom eye behind the upper pivot point on the perch what happens on a launch is the spring eye moves forward and down and tries to lift the chassis as it swings in an arc. Mounted with this geometry the weight of the truck is loaded onto the tires when you drop the hammer. If it starts out vertical then it unloads weight off the tires when you launch, which is not what you want. All this is kind of drag strip stuff which has absolutely nothing to do with driving to the ice cream shop or hauling bales of hay but if you’re gonna do it why not get the angles right? of course maybe I’m preaching to the choir! good luck amd post more pics I love seeing this stuff! Rdr
  9. Phew! I looked up the data sheet on permatex ultra black- it’s non corrosive. I did find info about how some rtv compounds release acetic acid as a byproduct of the curing process. I’m sure that has something to do with the way my A-pillar skins were completely slotted through in the corners. I found plenty of hardware store clear bathroom silicone in there when I cleaned them out, especially after shaving the gutters. I’m tossing around ideas for the gutters now- maybe 1/4” round stock would look cool and unobtrusive while guiding water down off the top? I’ve seen shaved drip rails replaced with round stock or brake line then mudded in for a slight radiused bulge but mine would be perched on the top of my repaired pinch weld flange and fully welded in. I still have the stock gutter edges. The passenger side is in three pieces and pretty rusty. The driver’s side is in one piece and in better shape. Even though it is a complicated shape I think repairing them would be almost as much work as making new ones.
  10. Man I am a big fan of this style of gasket now. I went back out and pulled half the lockstrip out, then laid a nice bead of glazing and bedding compound under the pinch weld flange lip. Without the lockstrip it folded up easily and it was easy to fill any gap between the gasket and the steel. I don’t run power tools after dark but some nights I can’t help myself and go back out after my kid’s in bed to tinker with a flashlight in the driveway. The lockstrip went back in super easily with the special tool except I must have pulled on it a little more than last time because now my tail is too long to tuck in. I’m going to wait till morning to trim or reset and trim it before driving to work. A little extra compound squeezed out all along the edge and most of it squeegeed off on a rubber gloved finger. The rest cleaned up nicely with a little gas spilled on a blue paper towel. The stuff sets in a minute or two and doesn’t ever really cure hard so I didn’t wait long. I played the garden hose all over the windshield roof and cowl and it looks like I got her all sealed up now. No familiar drip down the corner of the dash. I’m feeling pretty good about it! Now on to figuring out the gutters, restoring the heater, and a bunch of work on the driver’s door. I ordered a new window crank from dcm because I’m going to have to destroy this one which is cocked and has the pin stuck hard in it. Can’t fix the window until I can pull the door card and can’t do that with the crank installed. The driver’s door needs a ton of work but since nobody else uses it I have been procrastinating.
  11. Ok I got some thicker weatherstrip over the doors and after more hosing the doors are not terrible, the wiper pivots are holding water, and there is still a trickle down the left dash corner out of the a-pillar. I guess I have to pull the lockstrip and throw some more glazing and bedding compound in the gasket. 😢 Sad but not the end of the world. I only put a small bead in the gasket when we installed it- I guess it wasn’t enough on the driver’s side. Getting the glass into the rubber and holding the rubber on the pinch weld was a bear but the lockstrip install was like butter and I have plenty more soapy water.
  12. Working on sealing up the cab again. I got the cowl vent re-gasketed and hit the windshield and cowl with a hose. The cowl is sealed now but the passenger wiper pivot leaked like a sieve. I pulled it off and buttered it up with rtv. My new batch of weather strip should show up in the mail today so I can seal up the doors again.
  13. I have done a lot of torch shrinking but the advantage of a shrinking disc on a grinder is that the big flat area wants to hit high spots by its nature. They do work great and I’ve seen dings and oilcans go away like magic.
  14. Nice progress way to get in there and do what needs doing
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