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Radarsonwheels

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Radarsonwheels last won the day on October 29

Radarsonwheels had the most liked content!

About Radarsonwheels

  • Rank
    Zen Master, I breathe vintage mopar!

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Bucks County PA
  • Interests
    I like loud dangerous steel things
  • My Project Cars
    '86 ramcharger '73 swinger '54 3/4 ton

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    Ex-Harley wrench
  • Occupation
    Commercial artist

Converted

  • Location
    Levittown PA
  • Interests
    Wrenching, drawing on people

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1,320 profile views
  1. Man that thing is straight out of a cheech and chong movie I love it. Not drugged out but kinda that 70s custom van era. I like those movies for the comedy but they are also usually set in seedier neighborhoods where people were still driving 50s cars not as antiques or restoration projects for the well heeled but as what they could afford. These were only 20 year old hoopties back in the 70s. I can see somebody getting their hands on your panel truck and having big dreams of airbrushed wizards and porthole windows but only getting as far as junkyard taillights and a big chrome nerf bar. Anyway if it was mine that stuff would have to go but I appreciate the wacky story this thing would tell if it could say where it’s been. It looks like a great start to a project- thanks for sharing and I would love to hear what you have planned. radar
  2. That would make sense. If somebody hung something like keys off it the wear pattern would be below the elbow not above. Maybe one of those bus driver fans?
  3. Yup firewall fabrication is fun and time consuming. I used posterboard and blue tape to make it then tried to bend and fold the least amount of single chunks as possible. The patterns ended up being made of lots of blue tape and facets but the same technique works for traditional radiused tunnels. Also the toe boards definitely help with airflow out of the engine bay but give you less brake and clutch pedal travel. I think my 90° drivers footwell vs the stockish angled passenger toe board contributed to my (now past tense after louvering the hood) heat soak problems. The quick and dirty black paintjob definitely cooked off the driver’s rear hood much more than the passenger side. It’s looking good man don’t lose momentum! Radar
  4. * residual pressure valves keep the drums from retracting the prop valve keeps the rears from locking up 1st
  5. Is that the classic screamin jimmy from the 70s big rigs of my youth? Or I guess it’s before the 71 series deals?
  6. Wow that truck has open headers or a hellified exhaust leak. 5 speed 4x4 v8 sounds like a LOT of fun. I really like how our trucks look sat up on a 4x4 chassis too- the exact opposite of the lowered deal I built out of mine. You goin for mild monster truck?
  7. The old style motors can go 100,000 or 150,000 and still give decent service if they got regular oil changes and the carb wasn’t rich washing down the cylinders & rings. If the plugs run clean it’s cheaper to use a little oil (like a quart every 500 or 1k) than it is to rebuild. Or they can die a sludgy hot death at 50k. Depends on the quality of the build and the tune and maintenance. To figure out what you wanna do pull the sparkplugs. If the are the labrea tarpits you will need valve seals, or rings & pistons or both. The next check is compression- if one cyl is way down or they are all way down you will want to pull the motor and rebuild. A compression tester is cheap and easy to use. A fancier test is a leakdown but you need more tools. A mainfold vacuum check on a running motor can also tell you a lot- it could be down in general or exibit specific symptoms like a flutter. You can look that up online or in a haynes manual. In general though these are pretty simple and tough motors. I rebuilt the 318 in my 86 ramcharger in the chassis a couple years ago. New reman heads were like $300 from rockauto and I also did a mild cam & lifters, high volume oil pump, 4 barrel aluminum intake with edelbrock 650 carb, and ceramic coated headers for around $1000. The intake and headers were picked up for cheap off craigslist. I dropped the oil pan and checked a couple bottom bearing shells- they looked perfect so I torqued them back on for another 200K of service. It was kind of a home brewed tow package and gave a slight but noticeable bump in performance for the little v8 in a heavy old battle wagon. In general the 360s were great motors- plenty of torque and potential for pretty good HP with some bolt ons. A stock rebuild is pretty cheap but you can also just grab old ones from the junkyard and beat em till they blow. good luck radar
  8. Unless you were just poking fun at my bling bling 16” front 17” rear rims? In which case I’m totally in on the joke I would rather have 15” wheels all the way around but for $550 and a hour drive I couldn’t say no to somebody’s clean E-body mopar hotrod takeoffs. He even threw in a set of chrome lugnuts with the 5 funky keyed locking ones! And I re-used the rear tires on my mildly rodded 318 ‘73 swinger which should be way less traction challenged. Excuses, excuses. But yeah I have 17s on the rear they look fine but I’d rather have stock hubcaps on sneaky wide steelies. I won’t apologize for the DOT drag radials though they are amazing I can’t believe the traction on the street
  9. Well you can put a 36” tire on a 15” rim or a 20” tire on there I guess so unless you are running the steel rim on railroad tracks or something I don’t understand the question. The chart tells you what gear to use so the transmission can spin the square drive cable from the tailshaft to the dashboard the proper speed so the odometer and speedometer will read properly. Here’s as much of the one I used as I can fit in a square pic. If you want more info just google “727 speedometer gear chart”
  10. I consulted the mopar 727 transmission chart- tire diameter vs rear gear ratio, and looked up my buying history from around this time last year. Looks like I had a 32 tooth speedometer drive gear installed which checked out just about perfect for the nitto 255/50-17 tires and made the autometer analog speedo read the same as the GPS speedo on my phone. Welp now that I have 28” tall tires that’s out the window. Apparently the new setup calls for a 31 tooth gear. Hopefully it won’t be too cold out when it comes in- I just ordered one off ebay tonite.
  11. If you have an iphone just download the diptic app. Crop the photos into their single square or multi-image layouts right from your iphone photo gallery, then save them with the smallest option from the app. Then when you are posting here just select the new saved version from your photos and this site will throw them up here for us all to see.
  12. You could always go to a cable throttle and do away with all the rods and bell cranks?
  13. I had a repop weber 32/36 on my 230. It looked good and ran GREAT. The whole multiple carb thing is awesome for a period correct souped up deal. I dunno if anybody was hopping up their work truck though? Especially the dodges back then you would just buy the next bigger model if you needed more power. Whichever way makes you happiest is the way to go for sure. I know I do stuff the hard way sometimes because it’s more fun or there is pride or ego involved in doing or having something nobody else does. Post some pics of whatever you do- I’d love to see!
  14. After running the motor driving around like normal pull a couple plugs. If it’s not too rich (black) or too lean (white) you should be able to see some color on the electrode strap- the rainbow that is left from heating up steel. You want that heat mark to be centered around the 90° bend in the electrode strap. Farther down toward the threads it is getting too hot, closer to the tip and it’s too cold of a plug. There is probably a pretty wide range of plugs that will work fine without noticing much difference in performance or maintenance intervals. When you get into high compression, forced induction, nitrous, and the like you will start needing a colder plug to avoid preignition or putting too much demand on the ignition trying to spark under more difficult circumstances. You can also run a slightly hotter plug as a bandaid for a rich mixture to delay plug fouling but of course that’s not the right way to fix that. Good luck! radar
  15. Checked the rocker shaft bolts under the valve covers this morning- I can hear a little tappy noise sometimes which is probably either the injectors firing or a small exhaust leak but at least now I know the valvetrain isn’t working loose like it did on first fire/break in. Everything looked great in there and all the bolts are still tight. The driver’s valve cover bolts were barely hand tight so it’s good I got them gently torqued into the squish of the cork gaskets again. Louvers are working great- much cooler after a drive almost no heat soak in the engine bay 👍 I have the driver’s side vent window taped shut- it swings open easily and around 50mph likes to do so by itself. I need to find or make some twist locks or some kind of tab to slip into the stock holes for the latches which are missing.
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