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Radarsonwheels last won the day on January 6

Radarsonwheels had the most liked content!

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About Radarsonwheels

  • Rank
    Zen Master, I breathe vintage mopar!

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Bucks County PA
  • Interests
    I like loud dangerous steel things
  • My Project Cars
    '86 ramcharger '73 swinger '54 3/4 ton

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    Ex-Harley wrench
  • Occupation
    Commercial artist


  • Location
    Levittown PA
  • Interests
    Wrenching, drawing on people

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  1. I’d be trying to pay a few hundred bucks. Anybody that doesn’t want one or value it highly will probably be relieved you will help them get rid of it. They used them into the 70s and maybe later in forklifts and stuff so you might get lucky
  2. Howdy fellas! Yeah- don’t be like me and spend a whole year making your friends and family tired of hearing about your stupid truck. I had built smallblock motors, put in floors, 1/4s, drivelines, brake upgrades before. Y’know like normal weekend project muscle car stuff. I really just wanted to build a healthy stroker big block but all my other mopars have fresh motors, and my wife will leave me if I buy another car. I had enjoyed my thrashed abused ‘54 3/4 ton longbed like how you use yours and upgraded/rebuilt the suspension, brakes, driveline etc thru the years but never figured out the steering- it was also like herding geese- too much play. It would hold a curve fine but keeping her straight was sketchy. I went way deeper into fabricating and rebuilding every part of the truck than is necessary to do a chassis swap. You can do half the work if you leave the Dakota mostly alone and just do the body swap. Tastefully lifted body swap dodge trucks are super cool. Having said all that if your truck is anywhere near being a good restoration candidate just fix what’s wrong with it and enjoy it. They are really fun in stock form.
  3. The short ones for leather work are called ‘chicago screws’ I never even considered it a double entendre...
  4. I had an oil fouled clutch disc on a 70s 318/883 setup. I bought it like that and after running 15s at the strip put in a stroker smallblock and found the oily disc when I pulled the driveline. Turned out that the splined section and center steel piece in the disc was spiderwebbed with cracks, and missing a cushion spring too. I think that slippery disc probably saved me from a nice clutch explosion! The moral of the story is that oil on there is not good but the car kinda drove fine for a while even oil soaked. It would even still do a nice burnout, and didn’t slip on downshifts. But you should probably take a look and see what’s going on in there. If it’s just oil you can probably get away with it for a while- brakleen is your friend. And a flatty clutch is not as dangerous as a muscle car since at least on my 230 I shifted at 3200- no high rpm grenade is possible.
  5. You can stick one end of a 3/8” rubber hose in your ear and use the other end as a probe to listen for exhaust leaks around the manifold and later connections. You can stick the handle of a long screwdriver firmly over your ear hole and touch the block to try and isolate/locate an internal noise. The first method will show you if you need an exhaust re-torque or gasket. The second can help find a loosening valvetrain and tell you where to look. Good luck and happy 4th!
  6. When I wanted to find out more about mine (54) the consensus was that bumpers were a dealer or aftermarket add-on and therefore not really ever a stock part.
  7. Sometimes you gotta get new screens for your porch sliding doors- maybe shoulda thought of that before I made the bed 6’6”ish haha Really it was a 3/4 ton longbed and must be from an era before 8’ was a standard building material length because it was like 7’ 8” or something. So shortening it was no great loss. Just needed a ratchet strap and I was in business. “See honey? It’s totally practical!” Definitely good to have a big block for a full payload. In other news the EFI seems trustworthy again which is a relief. I should have known to look at whatever parts I touched since it was last reliable but sometimes the world has to teach perseverance. I hope everybody’s well and I’m enjoying watching all the cool projects going on.
  8. I always ran 4.10 in my ‘72 demon 408 smallblock stroker but that was with an iron case 833OD that had a .71 overdrive for highway cruising. Plus that car revved to 6000 really fast and was all forged and blueprinted to scream. My ‘54 C-series with the 512 motor I used 3.21 gears which turned out to be perfect since the torque is massive everywhere and there’s little benefit in revving past 4500 unless I’m on the dragstrip. These were both on a 28” tire. My old dart swinger (27” tire) started with a beat 198 cid slant six and 2.76 gears. It was a dependable grocery getter/cruiser. Then I put 3.73 gears in it behind a ported head, 2 barrel holley, long tube headers, and a mild cam. It became not a fast car but a fun car around town and ok on the highway. I kept swapping in new to me junkyard shortblocks and transmissions when I would beat the rod bearings out of them driving around lead-footed. I know you have a v8 early hemi- for sure they can be built any way you want- you have a mild hotrod right? Decent idle and off idle performance and good power to 4500? And a little more power up to maybe 5500 but if you’re like me you rarely abuse the vintage mill and you don’t have to rev it to the moon for it to be rumbly and fun anyway? I would say 3.2X if you run the interstate a lot driving to shows or 3.55 if you want a little more pep. Of course if you are mostly boppin around town 3.73 is sporty. The ultimate is a 2.76 one legger for trips and 4.10 sure grip for around town, takes about an hour or less to swap out in an 8.75 banjo rear. If you are in practice and have air or rechargable impact it can be a 20 min job. Still waiting for a ride along video- if you lived closer I’d have seen your truck in person by now!
  9. Holy cow is that a mechanical injection or just throttle bodies with the look? I hope you can make it work!
  10. That bench upholstery is a little rough around the edges and it looks like you are in the middle of working on some stuff in there but it looks like a really nice clean cab and I bet that bench is comfy. It looks like you maximized the legroom by using a thin backrest compared to the cushy overstuffed bottom. I dig it
  11. Funny my bed had a taper to it as well- 5/8” if I remember right. I went away from stock where the chassis holds the wood and the wood holds the box. On mine I made a 1” .120 wall square tube frame for the bed that uses poly iso mounts on four pedestals on the frame. For my wood I used ipe- should be the last time I buy wood for it. My buddy gave me three boards free and I spent $225ish on two more. I did use 5/4 or whatever they call actual 1” thick boards though. I did the notched out profile thing on the tablesaw- like 6 trips thru per board. I also shaped my outside boards tightish to the tubs with no edge angle strips. I got the mar-k stainless strips and drilled them where I needed the holes for my non stock bed. Some have crossmembers and some have fender washers underneath.
  12. Hook them on the front and back of the bed to make a shelf/tonneau cover type deal?
  13. Man that thing is a hulk! I really like it I wish my panels were that nice. I bet that paint would buff right up with some compound in a day’s work.
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