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Radarsonwheels last won the day on January 6 2020

Radarsonwheels had the most liked content!

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About Radarsonwheels

  • Rank
    Zen Master, I breathe vintage mopar!

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Bucks County PA
  • Interests
    I like loud dangerous steel things
  • My Project Cars
    '86 ramcharger '73 swinger '54 3/4 ton

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    Ex-Harley wrench
  • Occupation
    Commercial artist


  • Location
    Levittown PA
  • Interests
    Wrenching, drawing on people

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  1. Thanks man I agree. The stock plastic cover is like 1/16” short of touching the metal floor/ trans hump due to the taller adapter. So I ordered the cover for the taller truck Megashifter unit that B&M makes. Hopefully it’ll trim up nicely so it touches all the way around and has a more solid feel.
  2. Wow mine doesn’t have hood straps how do they work? Mine has struts that unfold over center to hold up the hood when it’s open.
  3. The megashifter looks slightly classier but basically the same as the starshifter. Plastic console/cover but a nicer rubber boot and better looking indicator over on the left top. Of course I’m fantasizing about replacing the plastic cover with hardwood but that sounds like a whole day’s work. Gonna cruise it tomorrow!
  4. Howdy flathead truckers! I got some stuff done today. I used the B&M star shifter when I built the truck. It can go up and down (with reverse lockout pull up on the front bar) through from P R N D like a normal shifter but then you can pull the lockout and shift down to 1 activating ratchet mode. Then you can slap it up to 2 and D. It was a cool shifter but you can’t ratchet back down it only ratchets up. So ‘drag race’ mode but no ‘road race’ mode. Also I made my 727 automatic valvebody full manual so D actually means it will hold 3rd gear. It will take off in 3rd
  5. I’m impressed you’re getting that sucker back into service mine was so bad I threw away the entire chassis!
  6. My 3/4 ton 1954 didn’t fit the 1/2 ton rusty hope kit I had to get bigger bearings iirc
  7. Hey I just caught up on your build- looks awesome. my 2¢- I have jeep zj grand cherokee brakes adapted to a 9.25” axle on my build. The parking brake works fine.
  8. Yes. The front of the frame will need to be trimmed and you will need to build new body mounts. The later daks are great if you plan to basically run them as is with the existing drivetrain. You may or may not need to shorten the wheelbase (section the frame, shorten the driveshaft). The biggest limitation is the bolt pattern of the wheels- it’s not the common 5 on 4.5” ford/mopar so your wheel choices are slim- kinda makes it obvious that it’s a dakota swap and to my eye doesn’t look right with late dak wheels. I think you can swap to 1st gen knuckles and axles to get the common bol
  9. My rear disc brake system lives on an early ramcharger 9.25 rear that was originally drums. The rotors have little mechanical drum brakes inside them like a tophat. I took the whole brake setup off of a jeep ZJ along with the parking brake lever and cables. It wouldn’t have been to much harder to adapt the cables to a stock C series pull lever. The ZJ (grand cherokee) setup bolted to a flange on the 9.25 axle tube ends that had the same bolt pattern, I just had to open the circular hole in the center of the caliper bracket with a die grinder. IIRC the calipers are floating
  10. Are you talking about where the inner and outer front fenders join with the rad support area? I usually find that areas that let water escape are fine but areas where water stays like two flanges flat on each other is where water likes to hang out and rot. Sometimes sealer keeps water out, sometimes it keeps it in. Also I think some of those type areas on my C series had tar or whatever inbetween to keep from being squeaky and give a more solid ride? Mine had some of that too.
  11. Hey Los That’s funny I’m about to throw new .030” over pistons in my aftermarket 120” harley motor- 4.280” bore! I have done the take it easy break in on them and the beat on it hard and soon break in on piston rings before- despite ny/sil steel or straight iron liners/blocks and iron or fancy rings there’s a few ways to successfully skin that cat. Luckily harleys have hydraulic rollers in them stock so there’s no adding zinc or scary flat tappet cam break in involved.
  12. I got a chance to read Wilwood’s take on it and they were pretty close to Ken’s technique when you click “pad bedding steps”. Increase pad heat slowly and smoothly then thoroughly cool them before any full stops. The funny part is the next FAQ under that is proper bedding procedure for street pads where they tell you to just go drive like a normal person and let the pads wear in. It makes sense that modern street pad compounds would be made for real world service conditions as in swap the pads, give the lady her car back, get paid. I know that serious racing p
  13. As far as I know all brakes need a bunch of hard stops from 30-40mph followed by some easy driving to cool them and the rotors back down- both so that the compounds can cook and offgas and so that the rotors and pads can bed in and begin to develop proper contact and wear. But I’m not too cool to learn something new I’ll check it out- thanks!
  14. Howdy moparnauts! I still haven’t messed with the heater core parts I bought- way too hot out this summer to even drive her much except to work here & there. I did spend a few bucks on what (fingers crossed) will be a brake upgrade. I found a company called “stainless brakes” that sells drilled and slotted hub/rotors on CarID and I am not autocrossing so I’d rather have more surface area than more cooling. But they also sell ceramic pads that are billed as aggressive street compound. The truck with decent but slightly groovy 1987 rotors and sintered pads from rockauto
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