Los_Control

Seems you have the carb on the wrong side, otherwise a good looking truck

NOOOO! Save the rust, only original once!

youtube vids from a phone suck, sound quality is not great. You hear to much wind. You can at least tell it is running smooth, just touch the key and it starts ... but the gas is a year old. He licensed it last may, and registration ran out end of may. The seller filled the tank, installed a new battery. The owner drove it home and parked it. The gas is a year old, I cant tune it with this gas, just a short trip on the road will cure that. Sigh, I moved the seat back. Simply moved the front bolt holes, to the rear bolt holes. About 7 inches. The owner sat in it and is where he needs it. Now the seat does not want to adjust forward, I cant touch the pedals as it is. Pull it back out tomorrow and fuss with it. As is it takes a tall man to be able to drive it. https://youtu.be/5lQvIMmkJAk

I am saying the old fuel bothers me, I am not dropping the tank and draining it. A 30 minute drive and top off the tank would fix this .... we may need to stop off for dinner somewhere . This sight wont upload the video I took of it running.

Currently it has in the middle of 1/4 tank - 1/2 tank, It wont take much to run it out, then add new. Same time am thinking to just fill it up with new, then run that tank out?

One of those jobs that just never end. Rusty stopped by this morning while I had the seat unbolted, we set it where it fit him .... aint no more passengers riding in the back seat ... ? The car really seems to need a good tune up, same time, the gas in it is over 1 year old. It has to be ran out and fresh gas added. Go from there. It is a old car and I enjoy working on it, I really have no desire to drive my buddies car. My wife says she will drive us around, get the car ready! Rusty as a EMT, he had a rough night, got a extra shift pushed on him, laid his head down at 9:00 pm and was immediately sent on a call, Finished about 2:00 am was able to lay his head down and sent out again at 3:00 am ... he is resting now. After a couple 9:00 am beers. I am finishing bolting down the seat and re-position the seat belts, I think my wife is going to take us old boys out for a ride.

My best guess, whoever did it was not the mechanic he thought he was My second guess, They did not want to cut the floor and rebuild a new trans tunnel ... It also has the Aod tranny that came with the motor ... A modified drive line and wiring harness, all else is original. Tomorrow I will have the seat relocated, moved back for belly room, should be done with it ... though tempted to check the wheel bearings and brakes, before returning it.

I love the sound of crickets I think I should yank this motor out, install a flathead 230 . Actually, these dang fords and maybe only the 302, has 2 drain plugs. The pan has a front & rear section, they ran a cross member in the middle, you need 2 plugs on this motor. What I laugh about, I talked to a friend of mine that use to have a mustang, he told me about the two plugs. I slap my forehead, but then I kinda remember myself that 10-15 years ago, I knew they had two plugs. Just laughing about it, the engine is still not even close to sitting level, I do not like it, but the car was built back in 1998. Lasted this long, if it goes out I would be trying to talk the owner into a y block. Not my choice.

My buddy installed his mirror on the heater ?

Ok, will toss out a opinion. I was a remodel carpenter, and for years, bathroom/kitchen remodels was my bread and butter. I understand the 70's was fiberglass .... Today I would never consider fiberglass. I would 100% run tile with a metal tub, sad that a cast iron tub cost so much. Cast iron would be my first choice, steel would be my second choice .... fiberglass would not even come into play.

I posted here the other day, and still working on the neighbors car. Cooling system is fixed. My todo list, Repack wheel bearings ... there is one loose and just maintenance, grease all zirk fittings same time. The Brakes are original drum and single reservoir. I just need to do a safety check and clean, adjust as needed. Replace worn parts also, but they work pretty good as is. Put the seat back in it's original position .... The builder drilled new holes and moved it forward for his short wife. And I wanted to change the oil. And this is what bugs me, I was more concerned that the dipstick showed over 1 quart more then needed. Then when I crawled under it to change the oil, The drain plug is in front of the oil pan, the deep stick is located in the rear of the pan ... pull the plug and less then 1/2 quart comes out. I am just assuming this is not great but works, is fine. The pickup tube is in the rear of the pan, this is a pressurized oil system. I need to find a hill to back the car up on, get the engine level and change the oil. I usually only see this discussion on drive line angle, never oil pan angle. Wondering what advice if any to pass to the owner?

I paid $1800 for my avatar, and it runs but still needs lots of work. I just gave away a 52 and a 49 truck, went for free to a good home, hope they get one running.

I seen a 1951 4x4 Marmon-Harrington pretty sure it was a 3/4 ton pickup ... been sitting for years in a field and they wanted $300 for it. I wish I had the time and money then, sigh ... those are awesome trucks

You will find as you progress, for this car, you may pay $500 to get stock wheels, not to mention brakes and other goodies. The initial price is a agreement between to people trading. If both parties are happy, enjoy ... just saying there will be more to come.

I have to admit, $500 seems like a lot for that car. If you can drive it but not sure about the brakes etc ... you just need to pm me and tell me where it is so I can go look at it I paid $1800 for mine, maybe too much but was I wanted. And is a truck, not a desoto. We pay what we think it is worth, $500 is a drop in the bucket. Looking forward to pics, yeah everything can be replaced and made better.

Thanks for replying Plymouthy Adams I look on line, seems like maybe 13 pounds was original ... I think I want to go 7 pounds ... just me. As far as fan goes, there is no mechanical fan, no room for it. It has a electric pusher fan in front of the radiator, That also was not working and I replaced. It is on when the key is on. I dunno, thinking I'm going to slap a 7 pound cap on it and call it a day. Then it needs other work, vacuum leaks, brake pedal is middle of the road, The driver side wheel bearing is loose, oil seems almost a quart to much ... this car was built in 1998. Daily driver for awhile and then parked .... last known work on it was 2003. OMG, she is one dirty girl ... Just a fun project for a good neighbor.

Working on this old Ford for my neighbor. It has original cooling system, with a mid 90's' 5.0 mustang motor. efi The water pump was shot, T-stat stuck, hoses rotted .... I flushed the radiator, got everything replaced. Test drive and all seems to be working well now. To finish the cooling system, I am adding a flushing T, flush it then antifreeze. I still need to replace the radiator cap. This brings questions, hoping the smart people can help me answer. Currently it has a cap that has 16v stamped on it, am guessing it is a 16 pound cap. For a 1954 radiator, heater core, seems like to much pressure to me. It also had a 195 T-stat, I dropped it to 180. Thinking I could get a old school cap with the lever on it, call it a day .... but what poundage for the old radiator? Or, should I stick with a modern cap, go hunt the antique shops for a reservoir bottle, and create a modern system with the old radiator. Again, what pressure cap to use. Going from 195 to 180, I think will also have a effect. Mixing old cooling system with modern motors has been done forever, just not by me ... could use some advice here.

Happy Birthday, enjoy the day!

If it was mine, I may think about filling the bed with fresh cow manure. Just to keep people away from it, and me Just drive the crap out of it. Thats just me though Love your work and results

What I would look at. Just to add to it, when I looked at mine. I had so much calcium build up, I could not run a fence wire through the tube. With some effort, I did get my tube cleared, replacing it may be a better option.

I doubt the water pump is not putting out enough water ... though it may need to be replaced. I would bet, pull the water pump and you will find the water distribution tube behind it is clogged. This will stop the flow of water through the block, can be replaced without to much blood loss. I would also pull the welch plugs and clean the casting sand out of the block while working on it.

Here is my 2 cents, worth exactly what you paid for it. These engines are solid and will take a lot of abuse, just do not run them over 3000 rpm. If they sit for a long time, you can bet will be 3" of sludge in the bottom of the oil pan. You want to pull the pan and clean it. I bought a complete engine gasket rebuild set from napa, think it was $110 These engines are also known to get stuck valves after sitting, Just because you get the pistons freed up, does not mean the valves will be free ... yank the head. One motor that had been sitting since 1978, had 5 stuck valves. Pull the head and rotate the motor, I got 4 valves freed up in a hour or less, the 5th was more stubborn and needed a little more love. Thats my opinion, buy the gasket set, yank the head, yank the pan, get it moving freely and then lets talk about other issues you may, or may not find.

I had a 1969 Triumph 650 hard tail, that bike was so light, could "almost" stand still and just balance it while standing up on the pegs. The one and only time I participated in a slow race, I was riding against big Hogs ... I made the first round and laughed ... This is cheating and I dropped out of the race. Good times indeed

Sounds like a good plan ... had a friend that broke down on the road in a older motor home, they charged him $1k to build a aluminum tank. Was a lot of money, but was a nice tank. And it got him back on the road to get home. When I bought my tank, I was working on a 1949 3/4 ton. With the longer wheel base, that truck already had the factory rear bracket for the gas tank. I assume all the 3/4 tons and up have the bracket. But it is a simple triangle shaped bracket and probably faster to build a new one, then to grind the rivets off the frame to remove a older one. I was told by tanks over the phone, when I ordered mine. Something about the angle of the spout is different, I was going to have to use a hack saw and cut the spout back some, and then would need to use a longer rubber hose then original to connect the filler tube. Just a couple mods and the tank works for these years also. Just saying, Tanks never said anything about modifying the floor. Just my humble opinion, I think tanks is a viable option, while a custom stainless steel is a better tank.