Tom Skinner

Don, Any young hands around? Offer to teach them and pay them to work on her. maybe even offer the car to them for sale at some point. I know we aren't getting any younger, and I hate to hear you have back trouble. I wish you the best of luck which ever way you go, By the way I saw your Car Pic - what a beauty. Good Luck! Tom

I googled Sisson Choke (2040 Mopar) has one for Plymouths) $89 in good working order with a asbestos gasket. No need to pay $275 on ebay. If your car is worth $15,000 that would be 1/54 the value of it. Incredible and outrageous in my way of thinking. I would buy the $89 one if it is needed. I do not need one.

Rich, I bought my extras long ago. I have had 1948 Chrysler Royals since 1973. My first 1948 Royal cost $600. These old buses are only worth say 15-18K finished. (Chrome and all) So I ask a silly question why would anyone pay $225 for a choke? or $475 for a Fulton repro sunvisor or $$375 for mud guards? or $275 for a clear shifter knob? I wouldn't. Dennis Bickford sells the clear knobs for $35-40 etc. etc. etc. One would be totally upside down on the car lickedy splits paying those prices even if one does all his own labor. so trying to justify today's high ebay pricing is a mute point to someone my age (64). I would not pay those prices - they can keep their stuff. Even Andy B in Boston sells stuff at much better prices. Traveling to Hershey from Huntersville NC , Hotels , Gas, Meals, etc. one could spend a thousand dollars for a Sisson Choke. Call me parsimonious if you must, however, I don't think something as simple as a Sisson Choke should go for 1/60 the cost of a finished 1948 Chrysler Royal. But I guess that is up to every individual. Tom

I gave a couple of these Sisson Chokes away to the guys in my Chrysler Club about 7 years ago. If one changes out the gasket every few years, cleans and adjusts the Sisson Choke from time to time - usually at severe Season - Temperature Changes/ Winer/Summer, one should not have any trouble with them. I do keep a nice extra just in case. About 10 years ago I snagged 2 of them on ebay for $14. It seems inflation has fixed that. LOL

Any older Mom and Pop Hardware will have one. We had Faulk Bros in Charlotte NC (since 1946) they would have had one, but sold out a few years back. Ace Hardware has a really fine selection of Brass fittings, take some time to dig through their stuff if you have one near you. We also have a Black Hawk Hardware in Charlotte NC that might also. There is better solutions to a $29/75 cent fitting, for that I am sure Tom

John, I really do not know for a fact, but here goes: There is a Bracket at the bottom of the Motor that holds it up/in place. Disconnect the Armatures at mid-points/clips. Disconnect the Switch at the top/Dash. Also any wires that might need disconnecting. I seems to me by looking under the dash at my 1948 Chrysler Royal it would go allot easier if the Radio was removed first. I have removed my Radio for repair in the past and saw the Wiper Motor was much more easy to get to in that fashion. I understand there are four wires at the Switch. My Service Manual doesn't really cover it properly either. In any case Page 93 is where you may (under Electrical) find some information in the Chrysler Shop Manual 1942-1948, Good Luck, go slow, you can do it. Tom

Schrader Valve most likely

From the Book: Automotive Trouble Shooting for WW2 Wheeled Vehicles, Volume 1, by Robert Notman. Page 27, and page 28. "To test the Condenser without removing it from the Distributor, crank the engine until the fiber rubber block of the points in the distributor is midway between two lobes of the cam. Turn the vehicle ignition on and snap the contact points open and closed by hand. Observe the contact points for evidence of flash. No arcing across the points indicate a grounded condenser. A slight flash indicate a normal condenser." I know this sound quite simple, however it is also quite a cheap way to test for a condenser that needs replacing. Also check all pigtails in the distributor. Frayed wires can ground out stuff in there. Tom

Westhaus29, I concur. Somtin ain't right. Turn dat Dizzy around G.D. Or Dat Oil Pump 1 or dee odder, LOL Tom

Dodgefran, I bought my wiring from Rhode Island Wiring. Everything is tagged and color coded just right on both ends of every wire. Go slow tackle a little every day. Engine bay one Day, Transmission the next, Under the Dash the next, etc.. You will be pleased with the results. This is just my humble opinion, not a pitch for R.I.W. . Also when I had a question I could call them and a technical gal there whose name escapes me now (it has been 10 years) answered the phone in person and answered all my questions accurately and in a very friendly way. Good luck with your choice. Tom

It is good to use the cork gasket. Seal one side. Let Dry. Use Grease on other side and not have to keep replacing it everytime you might have to go back in. Of Course an old gasket is just that, and would probably need replacing. Don't over tighten Thumb Screws (snug is enough)

I do not know why my pictures keep going upside down

There are You Tube instructions for this. It is easy to do (ubung macht den meister) practice makes perfect. Get the colors you need - do not mix enamels and oils - start with enamels finish with enamels.

I was on my way to work 6:30 AM in December in Charlotte NC I-85 when a girl hit and ran the back of my pick up truck, while passing me she never stopped, instead she got over in the left lane and floored it. I was shaken up. I didn't get her plate number. There is a new breed on the streets today, they don't care about people. Only their pocket books. I see this old timer was out on a Sunday. I only drive my '48 on Sundays, real early, when the drunks and drug attacks are still in bed. Stay on the back roads. The Interstates are not safe for our old busses. People go 80 mph down I-85 in NC, they don't care a whit for posted speed limits. Like my daddy always told me when he taught me to drive he said " stay in the right lane and give everyone all the room they need to kill themselves". My pick up is 21 years old so I just beat the bumper back in shape with a 6 lb hammer. I did see her headlight explode, I hope her car cost allot to repair if she even cares enough to do it. It would seem to me it would require repair for an inspection. Oh well, all is well that ends well. My cost was zero.

Glad to see you got it running!

When you went back to Points etc did you static time it? It probably has been knocked out of timing. See technical section above for steps to static time the engine Tom

PlymJim is correct. Absent the Stud, you probably need to replace the frame. With the stud a handle and kits show up on ebay to repair it. I usually hunt around 1948 Chrysler on ebay and see the Kits and handles with some steady frequency. Good Luck! Tom

Advise from Desoto1939. Best Advise!

I believe, Vintage Power Wagons or Andy Berbaum also have them. True Value is also a great suggestion.

Please don't show me. It hurts to look! Putting on the Ritz - 1929

Put The Flange in the Freezer before installing the Sleeve. It shrinks it enough you don't have to beat the Sleeve on so hard

You Tube also has an excellent video under Industrial Engine Flat Head Valve Adjustment. Shows it Cold First. I set mine Cold. Warm it up and Set em again Hot if necessary. Trying to do it with the Engine running is enough to knock you out. Check em Hot and Running! Tom

To answer Young Ed's post: The Fuel pump noise is more like a louder click or tick noise than a knock, use a long handle screw driver and place it the handle to your ear and press the tip in the vicinity of the fuel pump. Try placing the tip of the long screw driver else where around the engine and listen. As stated earlier revving the Engine with a possible bearing knock is not advisable. But hey its your car, do as you wish with it.

Bryce, I personally would drop the Oil Pan and have a look see. Check the Connecting Rod Bearings. A $20 Oil Pan Gasket will give you total piece of mind. Otherwise revving the Engine and guessing at it could lead to more damage than you might otherwise be inclined to deal with. The part about checking your reading with a Vacuum Gauge was to try to determine the Timing - Late perhaps, Etc. - Just the general Health of the Engine. It is a quick check I use - just for piece of mind before I take a long trip or return from one. It can't hurt. Good Luck! Tom

Bryce, If it happens when cold it may be Piston Slap (When a Piston Pin was fitted a tad tight during engine work). As the Engine warms up it goes away. Other than that try a compression or Vacuum check ???? Good Luck. Tom