Tom Skinner

My Dash again I can't straighten the Dammed Pic Out

Toyota even copied the starter button on the left of the Dash. I believe Chrysler started that in 1939

The Puke Red Design on the Chrysler 1941

Mezz your 1941 Chrysler's had this Alabaster or Mother of Pearl Look as well, or had red in it as well. One Style in 1941 had a red color in it. My buddy and I refer to it affectionately as a puke blood design. The Chrysler Corporation had the most beautiful Dashboards - EVER, Don Narus has books for sale about them on ebay. He must be in his nineties now if he is still around. The burled Walnut Wood Grain with the Alabaster or Red Alabaster Dashes were magnificent. Car Companies to this day still copy them. My wife's 2006 Toyota Avalon LMT has the Fake Wood a Light Walnut Look with Light Ashe Trim inside. I think Toyota also copied some paint colors in the last 10 - 15 years from Chrysler in the 1920's - 1940's as well. The Egyptian Red, The Noel Green, The Gun Metal Grey. See for yourself if I am not right in saying this. Of course Copyright Laws protect them. But an observant eye can still discern the truth.

My originals on several Royals never cracked either, however, at car shows most of the Travelers and Chrysler's I saw with this style have cracked, this one I did as an extra. It cost about $25 - 50 to do. So I am thinking of maybe listing them on ebay. In 50 years of owning 1948 Chrysler's I have yet to see anyone offer the Glove Box Doors in anything but cracked or crappy condition. I doubt highly at this late date many would be interested in one so I would only make them if ordered by a responsible Chrysler Owner. They were offered as bare metal last year on ebay I only bought one for $25. I have yet to see them again. I would require a peson to send me theirs to restore individually. With Lacquer Paint, Oil Paint, Etc. I have to wait several weeks before applying Lacquer clear coat as the feathering is oil paint which needs long drying periods. It is a long process. In my humble opinion well worth the wait, and process.

I bought the Metal Shell of this 46 - 48 Chrysler Glove Box Door on ebay last year. The Bake - Lite/Plastic covering was off of it or had cracked off. I applied The Spray rubber (Tool Handle Rubber Dip Brand) about 5 coats. Sanded and sealed it with 800 paper Painted it with spray Paint. Feathered the Alabaster Veins into it. Going to seal it with clear Lacquer 5 -10 Coats. Looks real close to original I cant seam to save the pics in the right direction

I had seen one when I removed my Passengers side front Kick Panel. It was stuffed into the cavity. Also up along the back seats tops in the trunk area stuffed into the cavity there as well. It is a roll of either insulation or sound deadening material. Could even be the dreaded asbestos. Handle with care and dispose of if possible. I left my rolls of whatever they are in place and didn't disturb them. Tom PS They where in other Chrysler Royals I owned as well, you come across weird stuff working on these old buses.

OK, well Thank you again Dodgeb4ya and Sniper. I ordered the whole shebang from ebay for only $49 (It has the 4 Metal Bushings) so I wouldn't need to go to Nylon. I will proceed when the parts get here, and send pictures. Here is the C-705 I made last year it required heating it with a torch to bend it properly. Thanks to the guy that posted the template for it also if I missed anyone. I had fun making it out of stock steel from Lowe's Pictured also is a Glove Box Door I am restoring

Thank you. I Made a Over Center Spring Tool with the Template already out of some Steel . I will take alot of Pictures and mark everything before going in!

Thank you Dodge4ya! I don't want to monk this up. Can you walk me through the steps to remove them? Thanks! Tom

Are 4 needed or 2 Halves?

OK mine is also different

There is nothing on You Tube. My guess is to release the Overcenter spring first then remove the pivot snap ring?

Gents, I have a question pertaining to the Clutch Torque Pivot Bearings. Are the difficult to replace, I see the are made out of Nylon now. Does any one know the steps to take to do this, and is willing to share with me the steps? I suspect mine are original and somewhat worn, because if I grease them they can get clunky, once the grease craps out after some use they quiet down again. Thank you in advance for the instructions. Tom

The Glove Box Light pigtails off the Clock which definitely has a 10 or 15 Amp Fuse in it on my 1948 Chrysler Royal. As for the Heater you will have to sort that one out, I looked and I don't see a fuse from my Heater Fan Switch on the Dash to the Heater. It may be a Capacitor, or a Resistor, I am not well versed in the Electrical Department. My Chrysler C-38 Wiring Diagram doesn't even show a Heater. My guess is its either in the switch box just behind the Knob - which would make it a Switch gone bad, a possible bad ground, or somewhere in the Heater Box. But my guessing is just that. Good Luck Tom

If I remember correctly ther is also a fuse leading to the Clock/Glove Box Light. And also one to the Heater. Search for them and replace them. That would be the quickest/cheapest solution if possible. Good Luck. Tom

I forgot to say - I rotate every 5-6000 miles and check/keep tire pressure every month. Its also a good time to check bearings and brake pads or shoes.

I bought my first 1948 Chrysler in 1973, with the original tires on it, with 32,000 miles on them. I drove it for 11 years with those tires and sold it with those tires still on it, about 70,000 miles. They looked worn. Either Tires were made much better in the day, or tire companies encourage owners to replace them every 7 years or so. Why? My 2001 Pick -Up Truck is on its 6th set of Tires with 302,000 they still have at least 10,000 more miles to go. Don't buy into the tire hoopla of getting new ones just to have new ones unless they are really needed. Its all just a caching thing. I'll be the first one to tell you new tires are nice, but with the price of them now - not so much.

I turned mine upside down on the lawn and flushed from the bottom to the top (fill) hole and got two cups of weird gunk out of mine about 7 years ago

Clean points with a soft cloth or pencil eraser - gently. They are silver, soft, and need gentle cleaning

Get a friend to help lift it out. 6 or 8 they are heavy (Copper) original radiators

I had similar situation last summer I did everything. Seems like cleaning the Governor Points and a new Coil did the trick. Check your fuss at the transmission box on the wheel well sometimes they get corroded or bad and don't send a clear message to the carb

Anyone can see that is a whatchamacallit. LOL

I'm with D35Torpedo GA I think stand for Fuel Gauge. Rad is most probably Radio. I am refering to a colored 1946,1947,1948 Chrysler C-38 and C-39 Plastic Laminated Wiring Diagram By John Anastasio that was popular off of ebay 10 years ago. Basically its the same as our Service Manual Page 102. No other mention of RAD in adjacent Diagrams for C-37, or C-40 in our Service Manual. Makes sense to me that it is most likely Radio. Caveat Emptor: I am not a good Electrician. LOL Good Luck!

Be sure to get the piston button back in the same position on both sides when re-assembling