Tom Skinner

Thanks Sniper U da Man!

I believe you can you tube or google The Service Book: The In's and Out's of Clutch Operation. Vol. 2 No.4, Copyright 1948. It clearly shows what you are looking for insomuch as Clutch Linkage (page 11) Checking Linkage (page 26) and Setting the Over Center Spring (page 27). If you cannot accesss this booklet message me your email address and I will try to scan and email those pages to you. Tom

Chris, Glad to hear you will make one. That is what differentiates us (P-15, D-24, or Chrysler, Desoto) folks on this Thread. We are the mechanics that keep these beasts rolling. Tom

Chris, It looks like you - I hope still have the Rubber Gasket in the picture? Take it to an Auto store and or Hardware Store and try your best to match it. My 1948 Chrysler doesn't seem to have one (although yours and my housing look the same) or I would measure I.D. and O.D. for you. Good Luck Tom

You know the old Rap - Jane.... Jane..... reminds me of a high school flame. L.O.L. Nice Car, good luck with her!

I believe it has an S - B - H designation on it. I tried doing away with it by rerouting wires directly to my horn relay which looks like yours with no luck, It is a 6 Volt Horn Relay I bought at Carpenters (Ford Supply) for $14.99 so I am not complaining. Why the He double Hockey Sticks do I need it?

Not to complicate this post, however, when my horn quit working, I saw I had to replace a relay to make it work again. I never had this, or saw this configuration on my previous Chrysler Royal or my Chrysler Club member's Chryslers (All 1946-1948) Why do I need this relay? It is pictured to the left of my Horn Relay below

Jeff, Although I believe all Chrysler Royal's came with Front Rubber Mats instead of Carpet from 1942-1949, you will probably need to go to carpet. I would venture to guess the Front Rubber Mats on ebay for 1954 Plymouths would probably fit - I cannot be sure. Another Source is Newark Carpet in East Orange New Jersey (for Carpet). I have Carpet in my 1948 Royal. If only a Roll Rubber Mat Company would produce a ribbed Mat wide and Long enough (on ebay) I would probably buy a 6 foot piece say 3 feet wide and cut one myself. The carpet is a pain to remove (because the front seat requires removing) to say service the master cylinder - or clutch etc. Also there is a place in Booton NJ called Kanter that might have a Carpet Set for your car. Good Luck. Tom

Bartender Floyd, That was near Rt3 I believe near the George Washington Bridge. By the way my Uncle Sonny Ryan owned a Bar (The Coronet) in East Orange NJ on Dodd Street and Prospect Street. We would visit there often as Beer was 25 cents a Glass and a Fiver would keep you in Pretzels, Hard Boiled Eggs and Beer for a whole Football Game on Sunday Afternoons

Didn't mean to double post

Also, Do the new electric fuel pumps have a regulator for pressure? Our manual pumps run between 3-6 pounds of pressure. I think electric one push it out more than 6. I do not use one. I have run regular 558's for 47 years with only one break down on the road. I drove my date home to Hasbrook Heights NJ one freezing rainy night in January 1975 (Her Dad told me she had to be home by midnight) Being from a Polish Catholic Family and all I had her Mary Ellen home at 11:57PM. Her dad was a Machinist and I didn't want to piss him off. I turned around to go back to Bloomfield NJ and about a block short of Rt 46 my Chrysler died. It started and stalled as I touched the gas pedal, I knew it was the Fuel Pump. Of course I had an extra in the trunk. I didn't want to wreck my Pea Coat so I took it off and laid under the 251 and changed out that fuel pump in record time (15-20 minutes) leaving off the heat shield as I worked. Shuddering and shaken wet I jumped back into my Chrysler Royal and started her up. But was I ever glad the Heater worked good. I made it home to my apartment building OK in Bloomfield 40 minutes later. It was around 30 degrees out. All I had on was a cotton shirt. Ahh to be young and strong again. Anyway I dated Mary Ellen until the spring of that year, but we went our separate ways after that. True story, ain't Life Grand?

Also at second glance it looks like you may have 2 Gaskets up top in there - they - looks doubled up??? Not to knock anything Knuckleharley said - because I have upmost respect for him, however, one shouldn't need to pump the accelerator pedal like hell to start one of these flatheads. One pump down a third, or to the floor to shoot gas into the manufold should do. Otherwise perhaps you need to look at plugs, condenser, coil, connections etc for a reason for a slow start. Grinding along to start it floods the engine and cannot help the starter at all.

In his post Rallyace makes a good point about setting the float a tad lower than Manual suggests (I think that the manual call out 5/64" from the top of Carb edge). The other reason may be the needle and seat may be allowing some fuel past after shutting down (That's where gas enters the carb through the Brass Fitting) Some times that needle is worn or damaged from even tiny rust particles from the gas tank. I cut new gaskets from stock - its saves on those rebuild Kits. Open the top of the Carb set the float down a little, check your needle and seat. put in a homemade gasket (I cut mine with an Exacto Knife and hole punch) and if everything looks good tighten those screws and test drive. You maybe lucky and can put off a Carb rebuild. Tom

A Clock perhaps?

Bern, I am pretty sure it can be found at a salvage yard out west for less than that ebay grouping I do not have one or I would send it to you. Tom

Bern, follow the wire down through the Steering Post - it leads to a Horn Relay. I would think you need to install a horn ring at the steering wheel as well. That part you are reffering to is definitely needed. Good Luck Tom

Paul, Once you determine you have spark at the points, static time the motor (read up on the process in our technical area above). Static Timing is setting the Ignition timing with the motor not running. Piston #1 must be at Top Dead Center in order to start with. Remove the Coil Wire (Center of the Dis. Cap and hold it near a ground, loosen the distributor and rotate the distributor until a spark jumps at the wire/ground) Now you are ready to start the motor and use a timing light to dial it in more. By the way the key must be turned on when doing the above don't get bit It sounds like the timing got knocked off when you put new points in. therefore no spark at #1 when it needs to be there. Good Luck. Tom

Wow! Just like I have fixed them for 47 years! I just wish I was young enough to do another like this guy. 100 percent ambition. 100 percent perspiration. Not 100 percent preparation, however, I give this guy a 100 percent for gitin it done. Yeeeehaaa L.O.L.

Dogebe4ya, Thank you! Tom

I have been offered a free Transmission. So I have a question: Will a M6 Fluid Drive Transmission that is taken off of a 1948 Chrysler C-40 Crown Imperial (8 Cylinder) fit a C-38 M6 Fluid Drive Chrysler Royal (Six Cylinder)? I have a Friend (Mechanic in his 70's) that said the C-38 and C-39 (Royal and New Yorker) would, but the Imperial C-40 might not. There might be bolt up issues. This would just be a spare tranny for me so there is no immediate issue as far as using it goes. Can anyone know or say for sure that it would or not or anything different? Thank you. Tom

Got my Champions (6 Spark Plugs) from NAPA swapped out (R45S) for 6 RJ12C (592) for a trade out of $2.49 each. Life is Good! I have used Champion Spark Plugs for 47 Years without any issues. Never had one fail. Although they be made in Mexico I still find they are as reliable as ever! God Bless the Mexican People! And All Hard working People everywhere! Tom

Sniper, Yes. The tip is longer by 1/16". I am swapping them out at NAPA tomorrow for Champion 592. They R45S) are for an eight cylinder not a six. Thank you for your help. I wasn't about to risk monking up my Valves. When I bought the car in 2007 it had R45 Plugs in it not R45S they (R45) measured the same as Champion 592 7/16" into the block from the top of the threads to the bottom of the tip of the plug. The R45S measured 1/2" That was what bothered me as I have heard of guys bending a valve by using the wrong plugs. Tom

Sniper, I did. The R45S are 1/16" Longer than the Champion RJ12C or 592. I think I better return them for Champions. I looked up a Cross reference Chart. It seems the R45S might be for a C-39 or 323cu.in. and my Parts man rushed looking at it on his computer I'm afraid they would damage the 251 Valves if seated longer in the head by even 1/16" Tom

Gents, I purchased some AC Delco R45S for my 251 six I have been using Champion 592 Plugs. I noticed the AC R45S are 1/16" Longer into the block than the Champions. Can I use them or will I bend a Valve Stem? Do they cross reference? Tom

Vinegar in my Coleslaw mmmmmmmm - good