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Everything posted by Tom Skinner
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Carter B&B Carburetor Question/Suggestion
Tom Skinner replied to bartenderfloyd's topic in P15-D24 Forum
In his post Rallyace makes a good point about setting the float a tad lower than Manual suggests (I think that the manual call out 5/64" from the top of Carb edge). The other reason may be the needle and seat may be allowing some fuel past after shutting down (That's where gas enters the carb through the Brass Fitting) Some times that needle is worn or damaged from even tiny rust particles from the gas tank. I cut new gaskets from stock - its saves on those rebuild Kits. Open the top of the Carb set the float down a little, check your needle and seat. put in a homemade gasket (I cut mine with an Exacto Knife and hole punch) and if everything looks good tighten those screws and test drive. You maybe lucky and can put off a Carb rebuild. Tom -
horn, horn ring, part info needed, 1948
Tom Skinner replied to Bern Pearson's topic in P15-D24 Forum
Bern, I am pretty sure it can be found at a salvage yard out west for less than that ebay grouping I do not have one or I would send it to you. Tom -
horn, horn ring, part info needed, 1948
Tom Skinner replied to Bern Pearson's topic in P15-D24 Forum
Bern, follow the wire down through the Steering Post - it leads to a Horn Relay. I would think you need to install a horn ring at the steering wheel as well. That part you are reffering to is definitely needed. Good Luck Tom -
Paul, Once you determine you have spark at the points, static time the motor (read up on the process in our technical area above). Static Timing is setting the Ignition timing with the motor not running. Piston #1 must be at Top Dead Center in order to start with. Remove the Coil Wire (Center of the Dis. Cap and hold it near a ground, loosen the distributor and rotate the distributor until a spark jumps at the wire/ground) Now you are ready to start the motor and use a timing light to dial it in more. By the way the key must be turned on when doing the above don't get bit It sounds like the timing got knocked off when you put new points in. therefore no spark at #1 when it needs to be there. Good Luck. Tom
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Dogebe4ya, Thank you! Tom
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I have been offered a free Transmission. So I have a question: Will a M6 Fluid Drive Transmission that is taken off of a 1948 Chrysler C-40 Crown Imperial (8 Cylinder) fit a C-38 M6 Fluid Drive Chrysler Royal (Six Cylinder)? I have a Friend (Mechanic in his 70's) that said the C-38 and C-39 (Royal and New Yorker) would, but the Imperial C-40 might not. There might be bolt up issues. This would just be a spare tranny for me so there is no immediate issue as far as using it goes. Can anyone know or say for sure that it would or not or anything different? Thank you. Tom
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Spark Plugs for a 1948 Chrysler 251cu. in. L Head
Tom Skinner replied to Tom Skinner's topic in P15-D24 Forum
Got my Champions (6 Spark Plugs) from NAPA swapped out (R45S) for 6 RJ12C (592) for a trade out of $2.49 each. Life is Good! I have used Champion Spark Plugs for 47 Years without any issues. Never had one fail. Although they be made in Mexico I still find they are as reliable as ever! God Bless the Mexican People! And All Hard working People everywhere! Tom -
Spark Plugs for a 1948 Chrysler 251cu. in. L Head
Tom Skinner replied to Tom Skinner's topic in P15-D24 Forum
Sniper, Yes. The tip is longer by 1/16". I am swapping them out at NAPA tomorrow for Champion 592. They R45S) are for an eight cylinder not a six. Thank you for your help. I wasn't about to risk monking up my Valves. When I bought the car in 2007 it had R45 Plugs in it not R45S they (R45) measured the same as Champion 592 7/16" into the block from the top of the threads to the bottom of the tip of the plug. The R45S measured 1/2" That was what bothered me as I have heard of guys bending a valve by using the wrong plugs. Tom -
Spark Plugs for a 1948 Chrysler 251cu. in. L Head
Tom Skinner replied to Tom Skinner's topic in P15-D24 Forum
Sniper, I did. The R45S are 1/16" Longer than the Champion RJ12C or 592. I think I better return them for Champions. I looked up a Cross reference Chart. It seems the R45S might be for a C-39 or 323cu.in. and my Parts man rushed looking at it on his computer I'm afraid they would damage the 251 Valves if seated longer in the head by even 1/16" Tom -
Gents, I purchased some AC Delco R45S for my 251 six I have been using Champion 592 Plugs. I noticed the AC R45S are 1/16" Longer into the block than the Champions. Can I use them or will I bend a Valve Stem? Do they cross reference? Tom
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Vinegar in my Coleslaw mmmmmmmm - good
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Wow, I found my problem to be wiring issue not a switch issue and made the repair 9 years ago to fix my Headlights. I was a youngster of 55 back then L.O.L. Thanks for the memories and new pictures of the release clip in the back of the knob
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Knuckleharley, I hate that happened to you. Whoever it was I hope you catch them. If you have a large dog - let him go to work on them. Don't get hurt whatever you do. Good Luck and try to have a Happy New Year. 2020 was a bad one. I lost my mom and my dog of 15 years. Car parts can be replaced. Good people like yourself cannot. Be careful and try to let it be. Forgiveness is how to be forgiven. Be Safe! Tom
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I noticed in the last 10 years or so ebay prices have risen steady. Lately it seems almost to much. I only buy what I need now, no extras like back in the day. The younger people think $10 hamburgers and $2.50 Cokes are a deal as well. But really now the last several years have been a boom for most people financially. The Christmas bonusses must have been good this year! I think Plymouth - Cranbrook is right allot of these sellers are just hoping for the best. Merry Christmas everybody!
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Royal Duke, My first 1948 Chrysler Royal was Gun Metal Gray. I bought it in 1974. I also owned a 1967 Bonneville Convertable. Back then you could still go to the Pontiac dealership and buy a rattle can of Champane Gold for the Pontiac. By 1974 there was no way to buy rattle cans of Gun Metal Gray. Allbizz is correct take your cowl cover off your car and have it scanned at the Auto Body Paint Supply House. They will mix up touch up cans or rattle cans as a perfect match, I did for my Heather Green 1948 Chrysler recently. A perfect Match about $20 dollars a can. Not bad for today's prices. Tom
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Ditto
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Imal80sman, I see 1954 Plymouth Rubber front floor mats on ebay. I would think they would need triming, but would fit. They are probably just a tad wide. I thought about buying one for my 1948 Chrysler and trimming it down Tom
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Ptwothree, I cannot say for sure, but I have bought all manner of brass fittings for my 1948 Chrysler Fuel Lines, and petcock valves for my block and radiator for next to nothing at a good mom and pop hardware store. Try one near you there before paying $29.50 for a $2.50 Brass Fitting. That's what makes our hobby fun - running down parts on the cheap. Happy Hunting! Tom
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First: Thank you James Douglas for very valuable information. I have owned 1948 Chrysler Royals with Fluid Drive for 47 years. Never touched the F.D. units. Second: Grandpa used to say "If it ain't broke then don't fix it. Third: The new ISO 22-32's etc. may have detergents in them that might eat up a compromised/older slow leaking seal. But hey, for those of you that can't leave it alone - have at it. Personally if I did drain one I would run it through a panty hose filter several times and re-fill it using the same fluid, (Maybe have to add a touch of ISO 32 to complete the fill). Es ist mir egal. It is all equal to me. Enjoy your choice. Tom
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Drive em! We are here for a short time and gone forever. Drive em! I have from NJ to NC for 47 years. They won't melt. You won't melt. Drive em! Snow driving in an old Mopar is soooooo much fun. Live for God's sake Live.
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Tractor Supply used to sell gallons of 10 wt. non-detergent oil, no more. I went on e bay and found a Hardware Store (In Texas)that sold the quarts for about $4.00/per qt. You need 2. The only problem was their shipping and handling was another $12 So for $20 I changed my m 6 transmission fluid. Remember to open up the screen (bottom left at rear of transmission) plate and clean in in kerosene and re-install with a gasket. There are also a couple of valves and springs to check for cleanliness and free movement at the bottom of the transmission (near under the Governor region - bottom right rear of the transmission) That should do it. Good Luck Tom
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No. I am all original. No problem staying that way, I have heard the problems with Fluid drive conversions. I do not mind dialing my car in from time to time. I take pride in being able to do it.
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Cool don't do it