Tom Skinner

bacelaw, All good advice above. First pump tires to max pressure allowed, try pushing her out of the garage she should roll, get a helper if need be. Wheels should turn by hand after brake work (raised up of course) with minimal drag. New Breakes will settle in after 10 -20 miles driving. I like the Vacumm Advance check idea above, along with the Distributor Plate turning freely. Also I have found setting the timing about 5 - 6 Degrees advanced helps with the new gas octanes with ethanol. Originally gas back in the 1940's was about 76 octane not 87 octane, this may account for the reason our cars run better with the Timing advance a little more than usual. So say your Service Book calls for 2 Degrees BTC, then try 7 - 8 Degrees BTDC. That is the sweet spot for my 1948 Royal (250.6cu.). Good Luck, let us know what you find. Tom

I am getting old here so if someone else knows better chime in. Which ever way the Rotor turns (say Clockwise) then to advance turn Distributor in the opposite direction (Counter clockwise) to advance timing And of course - say for a 1944 Ford Jeep the Rotor turns (counter clockwise) then to advance timing turn the distributor (clockwise) This holds true for all older engines with Rotors, Points, Condensers, Ditributor Caps, etc. Tom

Colbs, I searched recently viewed in my ebay. The Guy's handle on ebay is: 2ndgenautoparts. He is in Oregon. He rebuilds selenoids. It seems he knows the SS4705 etc for our Fluid Drives, if you haven't figured yours out. I would Search him and contact him if need be, I believe he is listing a SS4703 at present. It seems he wants @ $250 for all of his Selenoid Rebuilds though. Which probably not that bad since I paid $150 for just a Selenoid Winding for my MAX4050 Starter Selenoid about 9 years ago to rebuild mine. Not sure of his method of S&H etc. I would contact him if that place in GA can't help you with a part. I bought my winding from Frank 9 years ago. He must have still been there, I spoke with him on the phone, Nice Guy, too bad he is gone now. Tom

Colbs, I believe the place was in Portland Oregon. I googled Starter Rebuilders there and 3 came up, I can't recall which one was listing the $250 one. Maybe a Google Search will help. Also there is a guy in GA named Frank that carries one or two occationally. FRMopar I believe his handle is - but not sure. Usually the winding breaks and that is the reason the selenoid quits working. Good Luck searching. Some one might had seen my Post and grabed that $9.99 SS4703 up. They are not on ebay now. They sell extremely fast. Tom

Colbs, I looked to share them and somebody has already scarfed them up. They don't appear often. I should have just messaged you. Posting here might have got them gone immediately since they are so rare. Tom

Colbs, On ebay now for $9.99 is a Remanufactured SS4703 Starter Selenoid. Buy it. The SS4705 on your MAX4050 Starter can use the guts out of the SS4703. The only difference is the bracket on the SS4703 is canted differently than the SS4705. Or: On ebay once again a Remanufactured SS4705 is for sale for $250. If your Starter Selenoid is Bad you cannot beat these price now adays. Ebay: Type in 1948 Chrysler: browse for or type in 1948 Chrysler Starter Selenoid. Good Luck Tom PS. Those windind]gs in those Selenoids are Rare as Hen's Teeth.

Oil The Wick in the Back of The Instrument Panel. Fixed.

These old buses ran on 74 octane back in the day. Use Non- Ethanol gas if avialable. 87 Octane good. Crap Gas (Ethanol) will screw things up. Clean Plugs and set them. Use a Vacumm Gauge after you set your timing (about 4-6 degrees in advance) and set your Carb lastly with a Vacumm Gauge. To its Highest setting. Good Luck! Tom

Chris, You could try soaking what you have in Oil for the night, then try it. It will swell up a little and work more correctly than when dry and cracked. Get a new one if possible, I can't see how to just replace the leather only without monking it up. Tom

At 10:42 it shows the adjustment

There is a Selector Bushing in the Shift Linkage (along the Steering Column) just in front of the Fire Wall that probably needs adjusting. See Page 20 and 21 in: Transmision Fundamentals Service Book Chrysler Corporation Volumn 2 No.6. Dated 1949. If the Linkage gets between settings your problem exactly. I know I had it happen to my 1948 Chrysler going up hills here in NC. These Service Booklets are available to view in You Tube. Tom

Loren is correct. Try a good mom and pop Hardware. O Rings abound there.

How about the Cowl Vent?

Marc, That Broadcloth was done 20 years ago from old stock. The wood grain I did on some of the Interior trims. Thanks for the compliments! As with anything woodgraining is easy - it just takes practice - it is just like OUTFXD said if your not happy with it, wipe it clean and start over. Actualy for window trim a wide flat short bristle fan brush like the ones you use to paint clouds with works best. Got to get the artistic feelings stirring do this. A little spirits never hurt, when one is feeling particularly well disposed, time to grab the brushes. Tom

Tried to revolve pic didn't work

Any Color will do Chesnut etc. Against tan etc. Try using a large Feather to twist run it along making Grains. Finish with 10 coats of Clear Sealer Oh Baby what a finish!

Bryan, Avoid all headaches and set traps. I have caught as many as 4 at a time in my garage near my Chrysler with Traps. No mess no smell that I can tell all those little buggers have gone to H_ _ _. LOL. Windows up in the Fall at all times - Moths will atend to your Wool Interiors if not. Do as you please, Fact: no vermin can attack an antique car that is adequetly surrouned by loaded traps. Tom

Gents, You are over thinking this entirely. The Book even calls for 30 or 40 wt Oil in the Oil Bath filter when colder months are around the corner. NAPA sells 50wt Racing Oil for those wanting to spend $8 a QT. Tom

Old School Rule of Thumb: Backfiring out of Tailpipe is too rich a setting. Backfiring out of the Carb is too lean a setting Is your Choke set correctly?

Intermidate chirping or squeeking - coming off the gas - possible pilot bearing going out??? Usually around 25-35 mph.? How old is the last clutch job/ what is the milage on the Clutch?

Dansk, Forgot to add the Head will work. Also snag the Temp Gauge with the nut and gland just in case if available. But don't panic they usually come off easy. Be gentle with it. Enjoy the job. Tom

Dansk, Marc is right the Spitfire goes back to 1941. Sniper is right no distribution tube in the head. If you want that head you better snag it especially for $75. They ain't easy to come by for that price. As far as possible warp, just check it with a straight edge and feeler gauge. P-B Blaster will be your best friend too. Literally marinate the bolts and Temp Gauge Gland Nut before dis-assembly. Use a new Head Gasket. Wala you da man. Otherwise if everything is running smooth just clean up the head you bought and put it on the shelf. Besides if you get sick of looking at it you can always sell it on ebay for a profit. If you like turning wrenches its a good excercise for you. Good Luck Tom

Vintage Power Wagons sells them - about $20 w S&H. Or they used to be before everything doubled lately.

Cheesy, Great! Yes I have the M6 Tranny also. I am very glad everything has worked out. I have been rebuilding Carbs since 1973 and feel like I knew a little something that would help you. Thanks to Rich and Ken for their kind comments as well! Tom

Cheesy, I know everyone here knows more about everything than I do, however trust me, I have rebuilt a dozen EV1 B&B Carters with and without putting a spring in the bottom of the Dash Pot. Don't do it. Take it out and set your RPM's around 475 - 500 and everything will be OK. I'm sure we will hear a litany of better informed more intelligent people than me chime in and refute what I have just typed. Just as a note that is why I very seldom coment on this site anymore. Because I have found out from others just how ignorant I really am. So then OK (as young folk like to begin to couch their comments and phrases today) do as you please, it matters not to me, but you will find a much smoother running Carb without that spring. Good Luck. Tom