Tom Skinner

OK, For those that want to straighten their Carb Horns, from: Collector Car Restoration Bible, by Matt Joseph, Copyright 2005, Pages 166, and 167. Edited for brevity by me. "Warped Bowl Covers can be Hammered Straight, Heating a Bowl Cover to 350 Degrees in an oven for 30 minutes and C Clamping it to a piece of Hardwood in increments. Tightening it down slowly - go easy. Also soaking the Bowl Gasket in Kerosene before installation causing it to swell. Tightening the Carb screws in careful stages down to 16 -24 OZ each (I don't even know how to do this). So there you go everybody has their own solution. I sanded mine on glass, didn't take much off and put a new gasket on. Wala no leaks. So I guess instead of us being obstinate about the method used "Its whatever floats your skirt" LOL Tom

FarmerJon has a point there IvanB. I have worked with these Carter Ball and Ball Single Downdraft Carbs for 50 years and tried straightening the Warped Horns multiple times. Bumping them in a vice helps but heat from the engine manifold will usually put them back warped again, sanding them flat on glass works. Often times finding a donor Carb to Frankenstein a Horn from is the answer. Gasket Sealer isn't something I would do, its messy and a pain to deal with going forward without really resolving the problem - gas leaks down onto the hot manifold from in this case because of is a Warped Air Horn surface. One must endeavor to bring it back Flat and true to its mating surface to the top of the Body of the Carb. Only then can one lift the horn off to set the float height right or clean or adjust the Pump Connector Link or Plunger or Step up Jets etc. without hassle. This is just my humble opinion Tom

Pep48, Great Tips for Carburetor Repair! Merry Christmas!

I wouldn't pay someone to rebuild the carb. I would do it myself to be sure it is done properly. There isn't enough parts to it to become confused, One last thing, No Air Cleaner? You are sure to suck in enough dirt to clog things up

I am with Sniper, Choke if a Sisson needs adjustment. Dirty Needle and Seat? Idle Mixture Screw Tip Worn? Hesitation upon acceleration - Dry Leather on the Accelerator Piston in the Carb? Winter Stroke Setting under the Piston? Dirty Passages at the Check Balls inside the Carb? Dry Leather in the Dash Pot Piston?

I use a Long Breaker Bar with a 1-1/8" or 1-1/4" Socket to turn the Dog Bone on the Puller. Slowly stepping on in until POW the Drum Breaks loose. Back in the 70's when I was a poorer younger Lad I simply loosened the Castle Nuts on the Rear Axle and drove in a circle until they popped loose. I only suggest my Breaker Bar method because I believe beating the Hell out of the Dog Bone with a 5 or 6 Pound Hammer might end up breaking something - or maybe not - I just don't want to risk it.

With or without the heated storage I would use penetrating oil and seal it in plastic best I could. It is your call, I always stored extra engines and Transmissions in a corner of my Garage, of course I never had more than 1 or 2 in a corner.

Marv, Your best bet will probably be ebay now. They have a lot of Stromberg stuff. Look also at Fluid Drive under Chrysler, DeSoto, etc. Try 1948 Chrysler, and 1948 DeSoto. I have seen the parts you are looking for on ebay under these headings. In addition you maybe able to snag an older parts carb on ebay to Frankenstein your carb back to life. Tom

The M5 That is Correct

Only Mopar, I have had these clocks for over 50 years in several 1948 Mopars. If you can get it within 3 - 5 minutes a week accurate - you will have arrived. If you do better than that you have perfected the repair/setting process. Presently mine stays about a minute a day behind. I go out driving once or twice a week in it so I have to set it forward a few minutes every time I go. Don't forget to set it back 1 Hour today! I took mine apart about 10 years ago and cleaned it and oiled it lightly. It is a rather tedious task but can be done by careful application. Great to hear that you did yours! Tom

docrock, It doesn't look like my M5 Fluid Drive, after additional pictures. I really don't know what you have there Tom

Looks like a M5 Fluid Drive Transmission Typical of the 1946 - 1948 Chrysler and DeSoto Automobiles. Is there one or two wires going to the Kickdown Switch (At the Top of The Tranny in the first Picture) Typically One Wire to the Kickdown was a M5. Two wires to the kickdown was a M6, Typically the M6 came Later in 1948 - 1953. I am not totally sure but I believe they would function alike. The second wire in the later M6 was just grounded to the Governor. Maybe someone with more knowledge can chime in here.

I run a Big Fan with the hood up for an hour after a ride takes away the stink.

You may need a longer Pipe LOL!

Tom, I made my Gauge with a 3/4" 16 Nut 3/8" Threaded Rod and Scrap Strapping. I used JB Weld to Fasten the Rod to the Nut (Welding is probably better but JB Weld Works too) Tom

My Gauge

Tom, When done - Bleed and Adjust. Re-Bleed and Adjust. You will have got it by thorough process of elimination. I used to just eyeball shoes on now I use my home made gage on my Spindals where the Castle nut screws on. My Gauge is similar to the one shown (Shown is Don's but is a good example) Tom

Tom S. One more idea Tom, The Cams can be released to narrow the shoes (In order to facilitate spring removal and installation). Also the Anchors may be turned to facilitate the drum fitting. I personally just used a wood rule (Grandpa's and his wrenches) to size it up before attempting to slide the Drum back over new shoes. If you have 11" Brakes a quick wood rule diagonal measurement check is all you need to get the drum on. I also just cleaned up my old Wheel Cylinder Pins and used them. Answering your question: Yes the Spring Loaded Cam Adjustments are the ones to use to increase clearance of the shoe to the drum. All other adjustments should adhere to your Service Manual Instructions. Especially Torque of all pertinent Bolts. Anchors 50 - 70 FT. LBS Etc., (Anchors) Arrows Pointing toward each other on Rear Brakes ETC. The Fronts the Arrows Point toward the adjacent Wheel Cylinders) With New Shoes you should refer to the Major Brake Adjustment Section and be certain to follow the instruction - as yours, and others, Lives depend upon it. Good Luck let us know how you did! Tom S. Huntersville, NC

Stop beating it with Hammers! I use a 1-1/4" Socket and a Long 1/2" Coaxing Bar (2-1/2 Feet Long). Right where the DOG Bone Fits on. Keep Stepping on it until it POPS. (Do Leave the Castle Nut on Loose)So the damn thing doesn't de-nut you or fly into the wall across the Garage Turn it little by little with your foot until BANG it gives way. Tom PS. In this way maybe you don't Monk up the Axle Ends, beating on it (The Dog Bone)with a Hammer. It is more reliable as to when it will POP my way

Joe, I wish we all could agree, but it is your call, your car, change the oil when you see fit. I have owned 1948 Chryslers for over 50 years, they like their oil changed every 1,000 - 2,000 miles. Why I don't know, they just turn it black and useless every 1 -2 K Miles. Maybe its because the Engine Block is Cast Iron or Whatever. I'm sure the environmental wonders will disagree, But with 50 Years experience I don't care what anyone has to say about it. Choose your system. Tom

GTFastbacker, I agree with Los Control above, the habit of doing spring/Winter settings at the carb and choke coincide with my oil changes etc., etc., Tom

Sam, Thank You! Andy wasn't there when I called, he would have told me that. I will call them tomorrow and tell his helper, also I will order new Wheel Cylinders for the front Brakes. Thanks again! Tom

Gents, As per usual Andy Bernbaum stuff is Great. Question below my Inner Axle Seal (New) Which way does it Face (Out - In) Sorry to start a new thread I didn't want my old one ignored. Tom

Kilgore, I wouldn't leave out that inner seal, It will most assuredly (Pumpkin Grease) leak into and soil your Brake Shoes. Just a smear of Grease in the Bearing area will hold it until you inspect it again over a 2 -3 year period. (usually when re-bleeding Brakes and adjusting them) Lets face it - Service is mandatory on these old Buses to keep them running in top condition. Just as the Ignition System and Fuel System require that as well. Tom

Thank you to all! I need more feedback as I get older and forget stuff! LOL Tom