Tom Skinner

I was on my way to work 6:30 AM in December in Charlotte NC I-85 when a girl hit and ran the back of my pick up truck, while passing me she never stopped, instead she got over in the left lane and floored it. I was shaken up. I didn't get her plate number. There is a new breed on the streets today, they don't care about people. Only their pocket books. I see this old timer was out on a Sunday. I only drive my '48 on Sundays, real early, when the drunks and drug attacks are still in bed. Stay on the back roads. The Interstates are not safe for our old busses. People go 80 mph down I-85 in NC, they don't care a whit for posted speed limits. Like my daddy always told me when he taught me to drive he said " stay in the right lane and give everyone all the room they need to kill themselves". My pick up is 21 years old so I just beat the bumper back in shape with a 6 lb hammer. I did see her headlight explode, I hope her car cost allot to repair if she even cares enough to do it. It would seem to me it would require repair for an inspection. Oh well, all is well that ends well. My cost was zero.

Glad to see you got it running!

When you went back to Points etc did you static time it? It probably has been knocked out of timing. See technical section above for steps to static time the engine Tom

PlymJim is correct. Absent the Stud, you probably need to replace the frame. With the stud a handle and kits show up on ebay to repair it. I usually hunt around 1948 Chrysler on ebay and see the Kits and handles with some steady frequency. Good Luck! Tom

Advise from Desoto1939. Best Advise!

I believe, Vintage Power Wagons or Andy Berbaum also have them. True Value is also a great suggestion.

Please don't show me. It hurts to look! Putting on the Ritz - 1929

Put The Flange in the Freezer before installing the Sleeve. It shrinks it enough you don't have to beat the Sleeve on so hard

You Tube also has an excellent video under Industrial Engine Flat Head Valve Adjustment. Shows it Cold First. I set mine Cold. Warm it up and Set em again Hot if necessary. Trying to do it with the Engine running is enough to knock you out. Check em Hot and Running! Tom

To answer Young Ed's post: The Fuel pump noise is more like a louder click or tick noise than a knock, use a long handle screw driver and place it the handle to your ear and press the tip in the vicinity of the fuel pump. Try placing the tip of the long screw driver else where around the engine and listen. As stated earlier revving the Engine with a possible bearing knock is not advisable. But hey its your car, do as you wish with it.

Bryce, I personally would drop the Oil Pan and have a look see. Check the Connecting Rod Bearings. A $20 Oil Pan Gasket will give you total piece of mind. Otherwise revving the Engine and guessing at it could lead to more damage than you might otherwise be inclined to deal with. The part about checking your reading with a Vacuum Gauge was to try to determine the Timing - Late perhaps, Etc. - Just the general Health of the Engine. It is a quick check I use - just for piece of mind before I take a long trip or return from one. It can't hurt. Good Luck! Tom

Bryce, If it happens when cold it may be Piston Slap (When a Piston Pin was fitted a tad tight during engine work). As the Engine warms up it goes away. Other than that try a compression or Vacuum check ???? Good Luck. Tom

In effect you are totally tuning up your Distributor

Get to the part that shows the "Open the Pet Cock Richard" in the booklet then use the Chart. First hook to Vacuum at Carb (Left Fitting) to Carb. Then Hook Vacuum line to top of fitting (Right Top). Then hook a Vacuum Gauge to the Black Plastic end. Now Notice the Handle to the Top far Right to ("Open the Valve" - Or Open the Pectcock Richard part). Prior to all of this follow the instructions to raise the vehicle's back wheels safely - and continue with the exercise shown in the booklet. In this manner one can determine if the Vacuum Advance opens at the right time through the acceleration - driving speeds. It also sets up the 8mph rule at a stand still in high gear I did just what the booklet instructed and by changing washer thicknesses at the vacuum unit until I achieved excellent results. One must bear in mind this is something that needs to be read thoroughly (it took me multiple readings) in order to get it right.

Great Job Donald! I bet your Clutch Tool cost less than mine. LOL

This Booklet shows the Tool to make as follows. By the way recently I tried to access the Imperialclub Website and could not do it. I attached How to Check Distributor Advance Mechanisms Vol 1 No 1 1947 Imperial Club has this on File now http://www.web.imperialclub.info/Repair/Lit/Master/001/index.htm

I just wanted to remind us Old Mopar Flat head Owners specialty Tools can be made on the Cheap for Tuning the Engine. Here is a C-435 Top Dead Center Tool I made for @ $27, and a Vacuum Advance Tool for the Carburetor to check for the correct washer thickness for the Vacuum Advance System. I bought everything at Horror Freight and a Mom and Pop Hardware Store for both. LOL. I saw a Post earlier for some guys that made Brake Adjustment Tools. Great work!

Nice work Gents. Making specialty tools is fun, and rather inexpensive I might add. Indeed.

I made one for $17. I got the Steel Stock from Lowe's 1/8" Thick. Cut it with my neighbors Jig Saw with Metal Blades (I broke a blade and bought a new pack of 5 for $6. My son took it to work at his Dealership and heated it to bend it with Oxy-acetylene and bent it correctly. I painted it with Silver Paint and Red Letters. (Shown below is a Camber Wrench C-611 I snagged on ebay for $11 2 years ago. Great tool to make. Cheap too!

I run Antique plates in here in NC - just run on the weekends (Hagerty Rule) keep mine garaged (Hagarty Rule). Mr Wagoneer hasn't said what plates he runs. I have run Antique Cars and Motorcycles since 1973 weekends only - because of safety reasons. It keeps the crazy commuters from running me down literally - they do drive like their spinal columns are disconnected from their bodies. Probably pretty much like that anywhere I suspect now. Chasing the almighty dollar (their jobs most likely). Not too much civility behind the wheel anymore. My car holds 60mph. but I drive the older Country Parkways, not the Interstates. They are dangerous for our old busses.

Doesn't idling in front of a coffee shop pretty much destroy the environment? What does street friendly mean? Maybe rebuild a carb, set timing, replace or set washer spacing at the vacumm advance, or set the idle mixture at the carb, etc.. My 1948 Chrysler is quieter than my wife's Toyota Avalon and smells better to boot. Mr. wagoneer buy all the parts you want.

Plymouthy Adams, Ditto. Flat Heads are meant to breathe. Run Flat Heads Run.

By the Way Happy Birthday Walter Percy Chrysler!!!!! Born April 2, 1875. If it weren't for him, we wouldn't be on this site today. I am going to get a Cake and celebrate with my mechanic buddies today after supper. Great FUN!

Ahhhh, the can of worms is open now. How about using Champion Plugs for years and taking them out to clean them each year and re-installing them? I never had any problem doing this with anything but great results. LOL. Sooooo me thinks Autolite just likes (or whoever) to sell them expensive washers/gaskets. Of course I am just a retired know nothing and some young wipper snapper will jump in here now and remind me of that fact with all kinds of numbered facts and figures and such. Oh how smart they are, I wish I was that smart. Of course Grandpa always said: "Some people are so smart - they are stupid".

Thanks Sniper U da Man!