Tom Skinner

Just Mash the Clutch Pedal in. It will drop in

Go mix yourselves a nice strong drink gents and relax. L.O.L. I would be the first to admit I do not know much at all about vacuum or electrical issues?

The Oil Gauge Flexible Line near the back of the head could be leaking. Maybe that was your original post/problem? One can never be quite sure unless you run the motor awhile and inspect it for some type of leak while it is running??

Once Points and Timing are set how about using a Vacumn Gauge to set the carb to the highest setting? Then determine what if any is the problem.

Star Grinder, Steel is the Best, however, You will need to chase the holes over again for the Division Bar Gasket (Center Gasket). Clear Sealer 3M works best and is almost imperative or there will be leaks. Use a water hose and test it once sealer is dry. Tom

I use QT Non Ethanol 87, with some Marvel Mystery Oil in the Gas. Never Vapor Lock. Its usually 90 -95 here all summer. Runs like a champ

Yeah Sniper, I am his age. It ain't easy working on these old Flat Heads. I am with it. I hope he finds a easy solution. Some times tearing down an engine is what is necessary. My Panties are unbunched. Tom

I am not here to school anyone. So fine. Everyone satisfy your selves. Mechanics work. Talkers talk. Good luck and enjoy yourselves. Fix it. Pay someone to fix it. Love Peace and Hair Greece to everyone concerned. Tom

I guess a fat wallet is bigger than a solution

Turning a wrench is not Grunt Work. Suit yourself. You must know more than me. Congratulations. Mr. Know it all. I hope you feel superior. Thank you from all us mechanics. Tom

Eneto-55, No disrespect intended. There are also Service Booklets available through this site and You-Tube which are also helpful. With 870 Posts it looks like you are a Senior Member. There should be ample Literature for you to refer to for any repairs. Personally I would turn some wrenches and look into that engine before starting it. Unless your up in age, even then, I would have a pair of younger arms nearby to assist me. Where there is a will there is a way. J.M.H.O. Tom

Greg G, In the words of Arnie Cunningham (From the Movie Christene) its time to motivate. Change those Plugs out! L.O.L. Tom

In the old days it was called the block petcock drain your engine block with it. Lots of old gunk will probably follow. L.O.L. Tom

Sniper is correct! Of course after Cleaning Plugs and resetting Points and Timing, a Vacume Gauge needs to be hooked up to a vacume port near the Carb and the highest reading (usually 18 - 20 Inches) obtained at the Carb for a correct Carb setting. Tom

Noah, Please re-tune your car. Way back when - 5,000 miles was a good time to, as a matter of fact most guys retinkered/timed their cars every month or so in their driveways to keep them running optimally. I know your plugs will last 10,000 or more but points aren't what they used to be and one other thing to check is your vacume advance (if you have one) is it pulling or leaking? Good Luck. Our Flat Heads like to be advanced on the timing 4-6 Degrees as well from the static timing position. Here is wishing you - Happy Wrench Turning. Tom

I see them on ebay from time to time. Maybe Andy Bernbaum can help also. Tom

Better look at it (As stated use a real short screw)

Wire must be connected as stated in previous post

Earl Gray, Start out in 1st Gear low Range, (Shifter Up and Forward) take your foot off the gas at 8mph (It should Shift up to 2nd) Drive it up to 18-20mph Clutch it at about 18-20mph and move Shifter to Lower Position (3rd and 4th) Now because you are in 4th range no 3rd is needed. Start over from a full stop. (Shifter in Lower Position 3rd Gear) Drive to 16mph take you foot off the Gas it should Up-Shift to 4th. Drive away at anay speed. You shouldn't need to clutch at full stops until you clutch to neutral to park it. This is how to drive the m6 Hydraulic Transmissions operate. I might have missed the bus here but I think you are just over thinking this. Tom

Bob, There is also a Transmission Screen that can be cleaned while refilling the Tranny. Tom

There is also a Transmission Selenoid with a fuse in it. Check the Fuse, if Burnt Replace. Check all wiring for breaks and good connections. Check Tranny Fluid Level, Fill if necessary. It is probably one of these three issues as Fluid Drive Transmissions are usually bullet proof. Tom

I believe the question put forth at the first Thread was a good reliable shop to ship it to. I provided the only one I knew of. The car without a Fluid Drive is only a 3950 LBS paper weight. That being said $1,517 doesn't look so bad after all.

Harvie, Go to Moparmall.com. Select 1939-1949. Select Drive Line Parts. Select Page 2. select Complete Rebuild of your Fluid Drive Coupler. It is $1,517. This is the only one I know of. Tom

Speedy Sleeves the way to go

Old Wool Army Blankets - say from WW2 or Korea work fine too