Tom Skinner

OK mine is also different

There is nothing on You Tube. My guess is to release the Overcenter spring first then remove the pivot snap ring?

Gents, I have a question pertaining to the Clutch Torque Pivot Bearings. Are the difficult to replace, I see the are made out of Nylon now. Does any one know the steps to take to do this, and is willing to share with me the steps? I suspect mine are original and somewhat worn, because if I grease them they can get clunky, once the grease craps out after some use they quiet down again. Thank you in advance for the instructions. Tom

The Glove Box Light pigtails off the Clock which definitely has a 10 or 15 Amp Fuse in it on my 1948 Chrysler Royal. As for the Heater you will have to sort that one out, I looked and I don't see a fuse from my Heater Fan Switch on the Dash to the Heater. It may be a Capacitor, or a Resistor, I am not well versed in the Electrical Department. My Chrysler C-38 Wiring Diagram doesn't even show a Heater. My guess is its either in the switch box just behind the Knob - which would make it a Switch gone bad, a possible bad ground, or somewhere in the Heater Box. But my guessing is just that. Good Luck Tom

If I remember correctly ther is also a fuse leading to the Clock/Glove Box Light. And also one to the Heater. Search for them and replace them. That would be the quickest/cheapest solution if possible. Good Luck. Tom

I forgot to say - I rotate every 5-6000 miles and check/keep tire pressure every month. Its also a good time to check bearings and brake pads or shoes.

I bought my first 1948 Chrysler in 1973, with the original tires on it, with 32,000 miles on them. I drove it for 11 years with those tires and sold it with those tires still on it, about 70,000 miles. They looked worn. Either Tires were made much better in the day, or tire companies encourage owners to replace them every 7 years or so. Why? My 2001 Pick -Up Truck is on its 6th set of Tires with 302,000 they still have at least 10,000 more miles to go. Don't buy into the tire hoopla of getting new ones just to have new ones unless they are really needed. Its all just a caching thing. I'll be the first one to tell you new tires are nice, but with the price of them now - not so much.

I turned mine upside down on the lawn and flushed from the bottom to the top (fill) hole and got two cups of weird gunk out of mine about 7 years ago

Clean points with a soft cloth or pencil eraser - gently. They are silver, soft, and need gentle cleaning

Get a friend to help lift it out. 6 or 8 they are heavy (Copper) original radiators

I had similar situation last summer I did everything. Seems like cleaning the Governor Points and a new Coil did the trick. Check your fuss at the transmission box on the wheel well sometimes they get corroded or bad and don't send a clear message to the carb

Anyone can see that is a whatchamacallit. LOL

I'm with D35Torpedo GA I think stand for Fuel Gauge. Rad is most probably Radio. I am refering to a colored 1946,1947,1948 Chrysler C-38 and C-39 Plastic Laminated Wiring Diagram By John Anastasio that was popular off of ebay 10 years ago. Basically its the same as our Service Manual Page 102. No other mention of RAD in adjacent Diagrams for C-37, or C-40 in our Service Manual. Makes sense to me that it is most likely Radio. Caveat Emptor: I am not a good Electrician. LOL Good Luck!

Be sure to get the piston button back in the same position on both sides when re-assembling

Strictlyballroom, Sometimes just taking the carb apart and cleaning and freeing up the bakelite piston in that chamber can make a world of difference as well. Tom

LeRoy, Yeah, I guess I overdid it. I have lived in the Smokies, and TN as well. Nothing really wrong with the Smokies other than sometimes hearing those dueling banjos, I was so poor at one time I drove around in my first 1948 Chrysler in the 1970's with no car insurance - for years. Thank God a quart of Oil was only 79 cents then, and Gas was about 35cents a Gallon. So I do realize some people may need to stick a bolt in their Fluid Drive out of necessity. My apologies to anyone I may have offended. As a side note I still have friends and neighbors from the TN Mountains today, So what ever gets it fixed or done on our old Mopars is fine with me. I am just lucky enough to have never had any leaks from my Fluid Drives over the years. I did manage to buy The Compleat Fluid Drive Tool Set on ebay about 17 years ago. I don't know if I could repair one now without a younger set of hands helping me. I still need a Long 5/8" Fluid Drive wrench for the Flywheel removal though should that time ever come. Tom

Congratulations Adam. Johnny will really be singing I will make you Hurt. (Hurt - Nine Inch Nails) And you can really have - my Entire Empire of Dirt. Try selling that Mopar to who? What an ingenious way to repair a Car. You are really smarter than me obviously. I wish I was as smart as you. Hell have at it. Viel Gluck und Gute Reise. Buena suerte, que tengas un buen viaje! Tom

OK Sam I will play it again. What song will be playing when they stick that bolt into the Fluid Drive to ameliorate it? Dueling Banjos from Deliverance? Tom

Or Better put: Lord preserve us and protect us - we have been drinking Whiskey for Breakfast. Mike Cross North Carolina. Tom

OK, Call me an old fart. Why in gods name would anyone Bastardize a Fluid Drive that can be repaired properly unless they are just scared of doing something right? Buy the Tools. In all my years. Can anyone tell me why everything has to go to the lowest common denominator. I don't care kick me off this site if necessary. In gods name fix it properly. Or we are all doomed to melt down to the lowest levels of intelligence, until Kingdoms Come. Putting Bolts in a Fluid Drive to Lock it up? Oh Boy Lets just drink a case of Beer and Jump off a Bridge. Where do you people live in the Appalachians? Man Do your thing - Ignorantly as it may be. Tom Skinner Huntersville NC

Or is it Happy Holidays?

I made one out of 5/16" Steel stock one Christmas about 15 years ago and went one step further by painting it for the "Holly Happidays"

So far no one has mentioned the Brushes in the Generator. Are they dirty or worn down? Are the Brush Springs working correctly for the Brushes to make good contact? Yes the Posts on that Generator need cleaning up and inspection for grounding out as well.

Jerry in TX, My 1948 Chryslers both had a holes in the floor under the rear seats on both sides. They also had rubber plugs in them. The holes are either 1/2" or 1" in Diameter as my memory serves me. The Rubber Plugs are now made of Plastic and don't fit well. I lremoved one one and put it back in place just as perplexed as you about their purpose for being there. Maybe measure the diameter and go to a good Hardware store if there is still such a thing and buy a couple of rubber plugs and plug them up. I noticed either rear end Grease or Universal Joint Greese trying to seep through mine, I sleeved my Shaft Yoke and replaced my U-Joints and cleaned up the mess below and of course had no more problems. Seat belts did't come out until 1963 so I feel safe to say they had nothing what so ever to do with them. Tom

bacelaw, The Flapper may be freed up with PB Blaster and the carb off. Remember a Temp sensitive Spring also belongs on the post as well. If not removing the manifolds one may make repairs that way to it as well. The Gaskets for the manifolds cost in the $25 - $30 range. Remeber to drain the anti - freeze first as some manifold bolts go into the water jacket. Also use sealer on those same bolts while re-installing to prevent leaks. Good Luck trying to free it up with PB Blaster - you may very well suceed in this manner. The Spring should wind 3/4 of a turn upon installing to provide proper tension. Good Luck! Tom