Tom Skinner

I'm with D35Torpedo GA I think stand for Fuel Gauge. Rad is most probably Radio. I am refering to a colored 1946,1947,1948 Chrysler C-38 and C-39 Plastic Laminated Wiring Diagram By John Anastasio that was popular off of ebay 10 years ago. Basically its the same as our Service Manual Page 102. No other mention of RAD in adjacent Diagrams for C-37, or C-40 in our Service Manual. Makes sense to me that it is most likely Radio. Caveat Emptor: I am not a good Electrician. LOL Good Luck!

Be sure to get the piston button back in the same position on both sides when re-assembling

Strictlyballroom, Sometimes just taking the carb apart and cleaning and freeing up the bakelite piston in that chamber can make a world of difference as well. Tom

LeRoy, Yeah, I guess I overdid it. I have lived in the Smokies, and TN as well. Nothing really wrong with the Smokies other than sometimes hearing those dueling banjos, I was so poor at one time I drove around in my first 1948 Chrysler in the 1970's with no car insurance - for years. Thank God a quart of Oil was only 79 cents then, and Gas was about 35cents a Gallon. So I do realize some people may need to stick a bolt in their Fluid Drive out of necessity. My apologies to anyone I may have offended. As a side note I still have friends and neighbors from the TN Mountains today, So what ever gets it fixed or done on our old Mopars is fine with me. I am just lucky enough to have never had any leaks from my Fluid Drives over the years. I did manage to buy The Compleat Fluid Drive Tool Set on ebay about 17 years ago. I don't know if I could repair one now without a younger set of hands helping me. I still need a Long 5/8" Fluid Drive wrench for the Flywheel removal though should that time ever come. Tom

Congratulations Adam. Johnny will really be singing I will make you Hurt. (Hurt - Nine Inch Nails) And you can really have - my Entire Empire of Dirt. Try selling that Mopar to who? What an ingenious way to repair a Car. You are really smarter than me obviously. I wish I was as smart as you. Hell have at it. Viel Gluck und Gute Reise. Buena suerte, que tengas un buen viaje! Tom

OK Sam I will play it again. What song will be playing when they stick that bolt into the Fluid Drive to ameliorate it? Dueling Banjos from Deliverance? Tom

Or Better put: Lord preserve us and protect us - we have been drinking Whiskey for Breakfast. Mike Cross North Carolina. Tom

OK, Call me an old fart. Why in gods name would anyone Bastardize a Fluid Drive that can be repaired properly unless they are just scared of doing something right? Buy the Tools. In all my years. Can anyone tell me why everything has to go to the lowest common denominator. I don't care kick me off this site if necessary. In gods name fix it properly. Or we are all doomed to melt down to the lowest levels of intelligence, until Kingdoms Come. Putting Bolts in a Fluid Drive to Lock it up? Oh Boy Lets just drink a case of Beer and Jump off a Bridge. Where do you people live in the Appalachians? Man Do your thing - Ignorantly as it may be. Tom Skinner Huntersville NC

Or is it Happy Holidays?

I made one out of 5/16" Steel stock one Christmas about 15 years ago and went one step further by painting it for the "Holly Happidays"

So far no one has mentioned the Brushes in the Generator. Are they dirty or worn down? Are the Brush Springs working correctly for the Brushes to make good contact? Yes the Posts on that Generator need cleaning up and inspection for grounding out as well.

Jerry in TX, My 1948 Chryslers both had a holes in the floor under the rear seats on both sides. They also had rubber plugs in them. The holes are either 1/2" or 1" in Diameter as my memory serves me. The Rubber Plugs are now made of Plastic and don't fit well. I lremoved one one and put it back in place just as perplexed as you about their purpose for being there. Maybe measure the diameter and go to a good Hardware store if there is still such a thing and buy a couple of rubber plugs and plug them up. I noticed either rear end Grease or Universal Joint Greese trying to seep through mine, I sleeved my Shaft Yoke and replaced my U-Joints and cleaned up the mess below and of course had no more problems. Seat belts did't come out until 1963 so I feel safe to say they had nothing what so ever to do with them. Tom

bacelaw, The Flapper may be freed up with PB Blaster and the carb off. Remember a Temp sensitive Spring also belongs on the post as well. If not removing the manifolds one may make repairs that way to it as well. The Gaskets for the manifolds cost in the $25 - $30 range. Remeber to drain the anti - freeze first as some manifold bolts go into the water jacket. Also use sealer on those same bolts while re-installing to prevent leaks. Good Luck trying to free it up with PB Blaster - you may very well suceed in this manner. The Spring should wind 3/4 of a turn upon installing to provide proper tension. Good Luck! Tom

bacelaw, All good advice above. First pump tires to max pressure allowed, try pushing her out of the garage she should roll, get a helper if need be. Wheels should turn by hand after brake work (raised up of course) with minimal drag. New Breakes will settle in after 10 -20 miles driving. I like the Vacumm Advance check idea above, along with the Distributor Plate turning freely. Also I have found setting the timing about 5 - 6 Degrees advanced helps with the new gas octanes with ethanol. Originally gas back in the 1940's was about 76 octane not 87 octane, this may account for the reason our cars run better with the Timing advance a little more than usual. So say your Service Book calls for 2 Degrees BTC, then try 7 - 8 Degrees BTDC. That is the sweet spot for my 1948 Royal (250.6cu.). Good Luck, let us know what you find. Tom

I am getting old here so if someone else knows better chime in. Which ever way the Rotor turns (say Clockwise) then to advance turn Distributor in the opposite direction (Counter clockwise) to advance timing And of course - say for a 1944 Ford Jeep the Rotor turns (counter clockwise) then to advance timing turn the distributor (clockwise) This holds true for all older engines with Rotors, Points, Condensers, Ditributor Caps, etc. Tom

Colbs, I searched recently viewed in my ebay. The Guy's handle on ebay is: 2ndgenautoparts. He is in Oregon. He rebuilds selenoids. It seems he knows the SS4705 etc for our Fluid Drives, if you haven't figured yours out. I would Search him and contact him if need be, I believe he is listing a SS4703 at present. It seems he wants @ $250 for all of his Selenoid Rebuilds though. Which probably not that bad since I paid $150 for just a Selenoid Winding for my MAX4050 Starter Selenoid about 9 years ago to rebuild mine. Not sure of his method of S&H etc. I would contact him if that place in GA can't help you with a part. I bought my winding from Frank 9 years ago. He must have still been there, I spoke with him on the phone, Nice Guy, too bad he is gone now. Tom

Colbs, I believe the place was in Portland Oregon. I googled Starter Rebuilders there and 3 came up, I can't recall which one was listing the $250 one. Maybe a Google Search will help. Also there is a guy in GA named Frank that carries one or two occationally. FRMopar I believe his handle is - but not sure. Usually the winding breaks and that is the reason the selenoid quits working. Good Luck searching. Some one might had seen my Post and grabed that $9.99 SS4703 up. They are not on ebay now. They sell extremely fast. Tom

Colbs, I looked to share them and somebody has already scarfed them up. They don't appear often. I should have just messaged you. Posting here might have got them gone immediately since they are so rare. Tom

Colbs, On ebay now for $9.99 is a Remanufactured SS4703 Starter Selenoid. Buy it. The SS4705 on your MAX4050 Starter can use the guts out of the SS4703. The only difference is the bracket on the SS4703 is canted differently than the SS4705. Or: On ebay once again a Remanufactured SS4705 is for sale for $250. If your Starter Selenoid is Bad you cannot beat these price now adays. Ebay: Type in 1948 Chrysler: browse for or type in 1948 Chrysler Starter Selenoid. Good Luck Tom PS. Those windind]gs in those Selenoids are Rare as Hen's Teeth.

Oil The Wick in the Back of The Instrument Panel. Fixed.

These old buses ran on 74 octane back in the day. Use Non- Ethanol gas if avialable. 87 Octane good. Crap Gas (Ethanol) will screw things up. Clean Plugs and set them. Use a Vacumm Gauge after you set your timing (about 4-6 degrees in advance) and set your Carb lastly with a Vacumm Gauge. To its Highest setting. Good Luck! Tom

Chris, You could try soaking what you have in Oil for the night, then try it. It will swell up a little and work more correctly than when dry and cracked. Get a new one if possible, I can't see how to just replace the leather only without monking it up. Tom

At 10:42 it shows the adjustment

There is a Selector Bushing in the Shift Linkage (along the Steering Column) just in front of the Fire Wall that probably needs adjusting. See Page 20 and 21 in: Transmision Fundamentals Service Book Chrysler Corporation Volumn 2 No.6. Dated 1949. If the Linkage gets between settings your problem exactly. I know I had it happen to my 1948 Chrysler going up hills here in NC. These Service Booklets are available to view in You Tube. Tom

Loren is correct. Try a good mom and pop Hardware. O Rings abound there.