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About tollertdi

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    Los Angeles
  • My Project Cars
    48 Plymouth


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  1. I ordered the Build Record of my car from FCA (Fiat Chrysler of America). All Build Record numbers match what is on my car, Engine Number, Serial Number, Body Number. This proves that the Engine was not swapped out of my car. So this opens up 2 possibilities, either Chrysler screwed up on the assembly line stamping of the frame or my Body and Engine were moved to another Chassis, which might have occurred at the Dealer. Since we owned the car since new, we didn't do this swap and the car was never wrecked.
  2. Sorry guys, my engine has not been replaced and the number on the engine matches the build sheet that I ordered from Chrysler. The "I" has small bars on the top and bottom of the I, so it is definitely stamped as an I not a 1. Weird huh !
  3. My 48 Plymouth that I'm restoring has been in the family since new. It's never been wrecked. My frame number is P156I7I72 and does not match the motor number. The I's in the frame number are alphabetical " I " not 1's. This is really strange. Has anyone else seen this?
  4. Have a 218 flathead. Looked at all my manuals and can't find the torque specs for the 3 bolts on the cam timing gear and the 2 bolts that attach the cam to the block. Anyone know what these should be torqued at?
  5. I'm restoring a '48 Plymouth 4dr. I've ordered and received the Body Mounts from Steele but no one sells the 4 Square "shims" (located at frame station #2 and #9) and the round "shims" in the very front of the Body (mount station #1). Does anyone know where to get these? I can custom make them but I don't know how to size the appropriate thickness.
  6. Suntennis- You said that you made this. Where did you get the stock to make this? It looks real close to original.
  7. Anyone know how to take off the stainless steel molding hooked to the handle on a '48?
  8. We'll I did get it out. I put a screw drive in behind the latch plate and kind of boosted it up over the mechanism channel guide. You kind of have to jiggle it around and it final finds the right spot to come out. You don't have to apply any force to the latch plate, when it finds the right position it just comes out.
  9. Great picture of the latch that I'm trying to take out. But I'm trying to take out the latch on the front door not the rear door. Like I said before, I've removed everything inside the door that was screwed down except for the latch that I'm trying to remove. The only hardware that's left is riveted to the door and is the forward window channel guide (vertical) and the mechanism guide channel (horizontal) located directly in front of the latch. The mechanism guide channel is about 4-5 inches in length and interferes with removing the latch.
  10. I should also mention that the channel guide is horizontal, so the end of it interferes with the latch when trying to remove it.
  11. No it's not the window guide. It's about a 4 inch channel that the window mechanism goes into and it's riveted to the door. It's located directly behind the latch and interferes when trying to remove the latch.
  12. Anyone know how to remove the Door Latch on a 1948 P15 4 door? I've got everything out - window and mechanism, door handle, lock cylinder. I've removed all the screws from the latch. When I pull the latch back to take it out it interferes with the lower window mechanism guide channel, which seems to be riveted to the door.
  13. Does anyone know of a source for fuel lines for a P15. Inline Tube Co has steel brake lines but no steel fuel lines. Kind of strange. Anyone know why? Thanks.
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