Tom Skinner

Woodie, Best I can tell you will need to use an offset screwdriver. Tom

Chrisjr14, They make a Top Dead Center Whistle for finding TDC. Connect it to #1 Plug Hole, find TDC on the compression stroke. It stops whistling at TDC. Check Points to see they are gaped correctly. Turn ignition key on. Find your Static Time (with engine off) by rotating the Distributer with the Coil Wire to within 1/4" at ground on the block. A spark will fly when you hit it just right. Start engine and fine tune using a Timing Light. Because of high octane gas the setting vary. Gas was arount 76 octane in 1948. I use non-ethanol gas 87 octane. You will find a sweet spot usually BTDC (Before Top Dead Center) I set mine 6 Degrees BTDC for good results even though the Service Manual calls for 2 Degrees BTDC. You are probably safe as I have read on this site between 2 Degrees BTDC and as much as 12 Degrees BTDC, due in part to the higher Octanes in todays Fuel as well as the Corn they dump into it as well. A test drive will confirm your efforts. Tom

Do you have a Vacumm Advance on the Distributor? When they go out you lose power. Take it off and check it out. I also go with the idea that the Internal Distributor Wires need inspecting. Adjusting Valves is not needed if you do a Vacumm Test and get a steady Needle/Hand between 17-21". The fluctuating Needle will tell if you have a Valve problem. Hook it to a Vacumm port and run engine ti Diagnose. No need to tear an Engine apart until properly Diagnosed. Tom

Pricer, If that is a Carter Carb the Lower Left (Hole) in your picture is your Accelerator Piston Hole. In it at the bottom is a Clip that holds a Metal Ball, that should probably be replaced.The other two should come loose using the advice above. Tom

Johnboy, I would think it would join at the Top Center if it is not one continous piece. Also sealer is required for a water tight fit. There usually is instructions on how to to it in a Service Manual, absent that I would You Tube it, for any better tips on how to install rubber around windshields. My 1948 Chrysler had one continous piece Rubber Seals from Steel Rubber (Front and Back Windshields) so I am not entirely sure about one that has ends. By the way I used a clear 3m sealer, it makes less mess and dries clear and cleans up well Tom

Sounds like Corn Fuel gotcha agin. You'all needs to get non-ethanol fuel, or dump Marvel Mystery Oil into the gas to make her settle down a spell. Thissun is how we do it down South, knock the heat down, or git some wooden clothes pins on the gas line goin to the carb. She'll start like a gun shot then. Tom

Happy Birthday Walter Percy Chrysler! Without you we wouldn't have a P15 - D24 Forum. Happy 147 th Birthday W.P.C. April2, 1875 - August 18, 1940

Its just stuck, work it loose patiently. If and when you get it apart clean the points with a pencil eraser - gently. They are Silver and will damage easily. Likely your gasket has the cover stuck shut. spray some WD on it??? Tom

Is it a Ball and Ball EV1? I have one for sale on ebay - rebuilt right now under: 1946,1947,1948 Chrysler. My handle is greycar56. I bought it for $85 10 years ago and rebuilt it with a NAPA Kit $63 recently. I have it listed at $120. Works with a Sisson Choke 6 Volt. Should be correct for 251 engines (250.6cu.in.). Tom

I have an old bowl with a hose and magnet on it. Set it higher than the wheel cylinder. use a 6 point 3/8" Wrench. I set a vessel of DOT3 above my MC (Screwed in tight with opening valve) full. My wife pumps the brakes and holds down when told to. Or at my command LOL. Dammed Brakes are like New afterwards. I paid $1.98 for the Kit and use it once every 2-3 years. I suspect yee yunguns is payin a whole heep more for that new fangled airplane thingy. Tom

Try to get original parts to replace - especially - a Sisson Choke. They are simply the only way to go besides a manual one. If you can find one and it works great! I don't know anything about rebuilding them. I took one apart a long time ago, liked to never got it put back together. The winding in the top resembles a starter solenoid winding, virtually impossible to repair - for a electrical idiot like myself, a must needs replacing type situation as my best guess.

Contrary to what many may believe, If one is patient and a good Hunter one can still find Sisson Chokes on Ebay - often not listed a Sisson Choke but under other names. I scooped up 2 for $14 a few years back. So hunting "Automotive Chokes" or "Vintage 1940's Auto Parts" or "1940's Mopar" or "Miscellaneous Mopar" may result in a hit. I know I will hear the experts come on here and say it isn't so, but it is, because I have several Sisson Chokes in my Cabinet - on the Cheap. So if paying $395 for a Sisson Choke is your thing, knock yourself out, but even at car shows in junk boxes they go for small money still. Heck I bought a 1948 Chrysler Royal in 1973 for $600 with 32K miles on it. So I will never pay around $400 for a dinky Choke. That in my estimation is shear madness unless of course your loaded and don't care about being upside down in your car financially. Our old buses are only worth 8-18K in good running shape finished to begin with. Why spend it all on a Choke. I'm sure I will hear why from the "Natering Nabobs of Negativism" (Spiro Agnew's favorite term) soon. LOL. I won't argue back its not worth my time or energy. Believe what you want to believe. Even a manual Choke beats being raked over the coals for a Sisson.

My 1948 Royal clock loses a minute a day also. I remember my first 1948 Royal did also way back in 1973. I guess since I only drive it once or twice a week resetting forward 7 minutes once a week never bothered me.

You fellows are way too smart. I took a watch apart once and couldn't get it back together. You are very patient and skilled. That is why I just PB Blast it or take it to someone smarter than me. Congratulations for your success in repair work. Tom

With my cuckoo clock and Chrysler clock, I just PB Blaster them when they act up and prestodigitorium (Merlin the magician) they work like new again. Marinate the guts with PB Blaster - it smells for a bit, then let drip dry. Then they work again. I know it is the simpletins way out but it works. Also do the same with an old Elgin Watch. Never had trouble with Dust just cover them back up and let em run. Tom

On Ebay search for NewarkAuto $125 for your carpet, listed as: CHRYSLER DESOTO PLYMOUTH 1942 - 1948 2 DOOR SEDAN SADDLE TAN LOOP CARPET

You really don't say who is offering this carpet. It seems a bit pricey. There is a place in East Orange New Jersey that offers these carpets for around $200. They frequently show up under 1948 Chrysler on Ebay. They offer 2 and 4 door carpets (Loop) I believe. I went to VPW site and bought a rubber Mat for the front of my 1948 Chrysler Royal and you can get Hogs Hair Carpet from Bill Hirsch in Newark New Jersey at about a $100 a sq. yd. Originally they were Hogs Hair. There are some cheap carpet alternatives if you are patient and handy and buy and cut your own. Remember (At Least I have to) you have to access some places under the front to service the vehicle. Good Luck! Tom

Marc, Hit them like you live - Fast and Hard. Tom

I have taken Hemmings Classic Car Magazine for about 15 years. Their MOPAR Front covers were as follows: 1. Sept. 2011 #84 (Imperial Crowns - Rare 60'S Chrysler's YOU MUST OWN). 2. Sept. 2015 #132 ( Mrs. Chrysler's Chrysler -1 off 1937 Imperial Limo). 3. Feb. 2022 #209 (The Original Driving Machine Chrylser 300). I believe along the way in 2017 they showed a DeSoto on the Cover. That's it MOPAR Guys. Lets face it Richard Lentinello (Editor in Chief from about 1998 - 2019) and Terry McGean (New Editor in Chief) are pretty much GM Guys. I think my List above proves that for those that like to argue. Classic Car Magazine is pretty much a Bow Tie affair with Cadillacs and Fords and now foreign Cars sprinkled throughout. But Oh well they really are a 1 Trick Pony. Problem is no other Magazine covers the Classics as well. I think On-Line Information will dominate going forward (younger people) respond to this method, and Magazines are going the wayside. Hagerty went onto the stock Market recently and Beefed up their Magazine, If you Love Foreign Sports Cars. It has gotten Better though with Jay Leno and Wayne Carrini pages. Tom

Marc, My 1948 Chrysler Royal - Fluid Drive didn't have one on it when I removed my Transmission and changed the Clutch out. I did not put one back in either. I have had no problems or leaks from that in 10 years. I would think you are good to go. Tom

I got my 1948 Royal up to 68mph with a 251 cu. in. in it. It sounded good but I do not want to push it. It likes 50 -58 mph on a normal country road jaunt. Tom

47ply, On your other questions, please, please! go by the Service manual, it sounds like you may have other issues and need to know how to adjust brake shoes etc. etc. Good Luck! Tom

47ply, I always used a puller. Remember to leave the nut on a turn or two while using the puller so the drum doesn't shoot out at you. When they break loose it can sound like a gun shot some time. I bought a puller for $30 long ago, they are now allot pricier on ebay now. Rented pullers from say Advanced Auto don't seem to work as well. If you know an older mechanic he may have one you can borrow. Be safe! Tom

Harmony, jfish is correct. Bleed bottom wheel cylinders at the front first or you will not achieve full brake fluid flow (without bubbles) at the tops, or a firm brake pedal. Other than that you may have blockage in an old flex line (at least that doesn't cost anything to disconnect and check). Don Coatney a few years back sent me an extra Master Cylinder Lid with a cut out for a Brake Fluid Bottle to attach to. I fill it with DOT 3 screw it into the top of my M.C. and commence to bleeding the brakes using a small bottle and magnet and hose. This is achieved with keeping the bottle above the wheel cylinder (basically gravity fed) while my wife, kid, or friend pumps the pedal slowly to the floor and holds it there numerous times until the fluid comes without bubbles and clear/new color - not dark or dirty). In this way a nice hard brake pedal is achieved. If minor adjustments are called for at the cams I then do that as well. Brakes are like new after this procedure. Tom

Typically I will go around and Bleed 2-3 Times until everything is clear fluid - no bubbles - no troubles.