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JSabah

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JSabah last won the day on November 16 2019

JSabah had the most liked content!

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About JSabah

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Los Angeles,Ca
  • My Project Cars
    1949 Plymouth Woody

Converted

  • Location
    Los Angeles
  • Interests
    Cars

Contact Methods

  • Occupation
    Real Estate Developer

Recent Profile Visitors

1,098 profile views
  1. Anybody have any used books relating to the 1952 power wagon that they no longer need. I need to start learning about my new projects and have no experience with the PW. Owners manual, shop manual etc.
  2. Well, I’m officially the proud owner of 3 projects..... or 3 1952 Power Wagons. Since I know nothing about the PW specifically, you can be sure I’ll be seeking advice from the forum often as soon as I start these ... which won’t be immediately as I have another (car) project to finish and had to promise the wife some work around the house will get done first .... just another collateral cost
  3. I wasn’t able to find the receipt yet, but I believe it was just over 300. As mentioned before, I didn’t really have a choice
  4. I’ve bought a lot of things from AB but unfortunately I had to send 2 sets back as they weren’t made properly (one of the sealing fins must have had mold issues as it was rough and tapered). I ended up with Steele. Not a perfect fit but better than I had - no air leaks and the car will probably never see rain 😉
  5. Couldn’t find the cost in my e mails but I did find the company that I went with. Wayne at northwest radiator in Spokane (the other was ABC in Stockton). I’ll get the cost for you tomorrow.
  6. I posted this in the truck forum but thought some of you may have input/knowledge
  7. Hi Marc, I did have a choice with the 49 Plymouth woody as the tanks were special for that car and I couldn’t find another model that used the same (or even similar) tanks. I cleaned mine out and when I cleaned all the rust and varnish away, found that it was Swiss cheese/ lots of pin holes top and bottom. Radiatshops just looked at me funny and a few said they could try (I think with epoxy), but didn’t seen confident. I found a system called re-nu. They have a inner and outer naked on finish (after media blast and prep.) that comes with a lifetime warranty (as long as you own the car). They tag and number each tank. I got an outrageous price from a local shop in the LA/orange area. Called another authorized dealer (I think in Tulare) and found a huge price difference.... so I checked with others and ended up sending it to a shop outside of Seattle and saved even more even with shipping to and from. They were knowledgeable, friendly and listened to my concerns about originality and did a great job and on time. If anything goes wrong, I can still take it to the local shop under warranty. You may want to check them out. https://www.gastankrenu.com
  8. I’m looking at purchasing 2 (possible 3) power wagons that are in pretty rough shape. There are two 1952-54 and one 1950-51. I just finished a ‘49 Plymouth Woody so I’m somewhat familiar with the era but not so much with the power wagons. The frames look solid, some of the cab walls have rust. There are no bed sides, back or tailgate and the wood beds are present but rotting. Two have the original winches and most of the badging is there. Two ran when parked 10 yrs ago. I can typically weld Sheetmetal, make the wood beds, handle all the electrical, brakes, and fuel system. I typically send the engine, trans and gauges out to specialists. What pitfalls should I look out for (for instance on the woody, nobody makes wood kits so it was up to me and the fuel tank was not used in any other model, nor available). I have no experience (but always like to learn) about the transfer case or aux power - who works on or can just go thru and recondition those? I expect to have period correct show cars (not concourse but very nice drivers) Below is a picture of them as they stand now and my 49 just so you can see what I’ll expect. Looking forward to hearing what to look out for (also what values you think they may have as-is).
  9. My car (‘49 Flathead 6 218) starts up as it should but it seems that after it warms up, the engine idle doesn’t lower. It actually seems that when the car initially warms up, the idle does drop but then after a bit more time, the Revs get higher and It does want to kick down. I have duel carbs from Langdon’s Stovebolt 32/36 progressive on the heated manifold. I think it must be a carb adjustment, but which one?
  10. I had the name of a company in So Cal that made wiring harnesses but I seemed to have misplaced it .... anybody know? I’ve used Rhode Island in the past, but it isn’t them. Thanks, Josh
  11. Interesting.... but my heater duct is on that side and it is crowded there too. Look at my 1st post pics. I think that my engine builder should have turned the carbs around and had the linkage more towards the center of the car. But then my fuel lines would have been wrong - always something but I think I’ve got it now.
  12. I decided that the rods were never going in a pulling sutures the ball joing always had some give. While I got it better, I decided to try a cable system. Made a couple of brackets and bought a $15 cable. MUCH happier with the pedal action.
  13. Front seat: with the cushion out make sure the tracks/stanchions are bolted to the seat. Then the entire unit bolts to the captive nuts in the floor. Finally replace the cushion. Rear seats: mine are not actually bolted in. The front of the rear seats hook into the rectangular hole (middle seat is over the tool box, 3rd row seat is in the floor). Then the back of the seat snaps int place Middle row single folding seat: 2 stove bolts at the hinge with lock washers & nuts from up under the tool box. Im sure mine may be a bit different, being a woodie but probably similar in some ways too.
  14. Love it. More pics as it comes along please
  15. These look great. I was going to use both the center hubcaps and trim rings on my ‘49 Plymouth so I thought I’d give it a go after buying a proper pin stripping brush. They did not come out as nice as yours, but not really bad enough where I feel I have to put the rings on to hide my work. Curious as to what it set you back...
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