Tom Skinner

I used the stud part, Bolt or Stud you are good to go.

Maybe it was old to begin with. The guy at O'Reiley's showed me the new date on mine. I had to ask though. Mine was only $19.99 so I had to dive 15 miles to go get it. worth the ride with leaves changing colors. Tom

Marc, Just know that there is some holes to patch and some to cut. Go slow and measure twice and cut once. I cheated and took my carpeting out and used it as a pattern. I backed up the patches with left over material and Gorilla Glue, then carefully cut patches to fill the few holes that were not needed. All in all it was a very satisfying job. The car even smells like new rubber matting, a nice change from wool smell and horse hair. LOL Tom

I only posted this because I have seen over the years some asking about these Mats. The original guy in East Orange New Jersey hasn't made or sold them for decades. I believe it was told the mold was destroyed after he passed away or some such story. No one could justify a new mold to be made cost wise because demand just wasn't there. At least this is how I recollect the story behind why only rarely you see one on ebay for $400 - $500 range and they are dry rotted and cracked.

Trying again The Hump needs some padding other than that great fit

It is right side up in my computer, This happens sometimes. I'll take another picture and try again

Gents, I have a 1948 Royal, I bought 15 years ago. It had carpeting throughout. A correct 1948 Royal has a Rubber Mat in the front, and Carpeting in the back. I went to Vintage Power Wagons recently and found in their new accessories on Page 12 a Rubber Mat for a D37. for $180. It looked close. I bought it. It fits with some extra holes cut and a few patched. here is my pictures. Ebay typically sells these at $300 - $500 . These are brand new. Caveat - one must fit these into their car. They are basically 40" by 58". I worked mine in, it took 2 Days with Gorilla Glue and patience. Well worth the results. Judge for yourselves

Here we go. LOL

Just make sure you have plenty of Liquor in your cabin before dark. Then there is no reason to go out after dark. LOL Tom

Doug and Deb, Reset your dwell/Points Gap, then Timing, then Vacuum Gauge Set the Carb in that Order. See what you get then. seeking about 20" It may be there is dust gunk in the carb that is rebuilt, if so use carb cleaner as well. Take her for a run 50 - 55 mph. Fresh Gas - Non Ethanol if possible. Good Luck!!! Tom

Gents, I am getting about 1.5 which seems correct because my system is a 6 Volt, 6 Cylinder 1948 Chrysler Royal. Thank you for the help! If I didn't still have my Simpson Owners Manual, I would not have known which way to set the knobs to check this out. I might finally learn something about Lectricity LOL. Tom

Sniper, Thank you! I will try this first thing tomorrow. Tom

Gent, I do not pretend to know anything about Volts Amps or Ohms. My question is with a Simpson Tube Volt Meter 1960's Style exactly how do I test my Coil for Ohms? I zeroed out my Scale on my Meter it has a new battery 1.5 Volt I believe. So walk me through where to put the Black and Red Leads and whether I should have the ignition key on or off etc. I want to check my new 6 Volt Coil for 3-3.5 Ohms as instructed above. Basically I ask exactly how. Thanks! Tom

Thank you Chrysler1941!

Gents, I have over the years purchased several EV1 Carburators, soaked them, and re-built them. As time goes by the outsides have tarnished on 2 of them to a darker grayish color. I have Neat's Foot Oil on the Leather Cups inside and plenty of PB Blaster to keep them clean and supple inside for just sitting in a closed Cabinet. What if anything would I use to clean them up bright and shiny on the outside? I really do not care if its environmentally safe. I just want these babies silvery again on the outside. I bought one recently on ebay for $100 and it shines like new. Maybe it was new??? The other 2 extras need to "stand tall" like the one I just bought. Any suggestions beside green slime or any weak watery cleaners? Maybe Noxon, or a strong Silver Cleaning Creme like Happisch Semi Chrome with a tooth brush? Tom

Woodie, I wish I could be of more assistance, however, I always sent my tube (Philco 802) out for Service in PA. There is a section in your Service Manual that addresses what you are asking about. Pages 94 and 95 in The 1941-1948 Chrysler Shop Manual. I have very little experience with these Radios, however, I believe if you take the side cover off and use a graffite powder lube sparingly it may free that button up some. Just guessing though. Good Luck! Tom

I bought 3 on ebay before I hi=t a really good one. Do It!

OK with more pictures: Question where does the Battery Wire go? From the B Post to the Ignition Switch? Top or Bottom Post on the Ignition Switch? Without anything Else the extra Relay read SBH. Original Switch reads: Top Left H Top Right B Bottom Left S Where does the B Wire Lead to the Ignition Switch? I give up, I am an Electrical Imbecile

Lazy K, You are right, however, I do not have the Electrical confidence to correct this arrangement. If I find someone here willing to help me sort this out I will re-post. Until then my only hope is my Electrical Engineer Nephew whom may be able to sort this out. I will repost if possible any developments. Tom

Sniper, OK good Thank you for clarification. I only wanted to eliminate it because I didn't see any on my first Chrysler Royal, or on any other 46-48 Chrysler's in my Chrysler Club. No matter, as I tried to wire it up with out the Relay - Sparks flew everywhere, so I backed up and punted, and re-installed the Relay. The other thing I didn't mention from the beginning of my posts was the fact that the Horn would sound continually because of the bent horn ring on the steering wheel. Once I removed it and slowly bent it back straight, re-installed it, that solved that problem. It seems there is always something about these old Chrysler's that wants to act up. I have had to replace the Horn Relay every couple of years on this one. I am not a big horn blower, but I feel it should work, just in case, and as well as if they ever go to inspecting these old buses here in NC it would pass inspection. Right now Antique Auto's (Mine is Registered as such) in NC do not require inspection. I however make good and sure it is kept up to that level of repair by knowing the car is safe on the road. Well I guess that wraps up this Thread. Thanks again! Tom

I tried re-wiring to get rid of the Relay - no dice. That is to say routing wires directly to my Horn Switch. I found my Horn Ring was bent badly after I took it off my Steering Wheel. I straightened it, by bending it back slowly by hand. I re-wired that damned relay switch back up and the horn works fine again. I wish I was a better electrician, and could figure how to eliminate that damned relay switch Tom

Lazy K, Thank you! Tom

Lazy K, Top Left (To Horns) is H Top Right (Always Hot) is B Bottom Left (Grounds @ Horn Button) is S Bottom Right - No Wire This was an older picture from an older Post so That was the Labeling that came with it. Tom

Rich, I will attempt to re-rout the wiring and eliminate the Relay to the Left. I will report back this weekend and give results. (Its supposed to rain here tomorrow. Thanks Rich. Anyone else please chime in - I am not electrically talented Tom

Gents, I have trouble keeping a Horn working. My other 1948 Chrysler Royal did not have this Relay, just a Horn Switch There is a Relay (6 Volt) that was installed on my Chrysler when I got it back in 2007. In this picture it Sits to the Left of The Horn Switch See Picture at Bottom with the S, B, H designation. Can I re-wire my Switch without this relay, as it seems to burn out after about 10-20 Toots? Tom