Tom Skinner

Rich, Nice Set up. I like it. I went a different route. I replaced all my wiring. I buy a new 6 Volt battery every 3 years. I drive my car 1-2 times a week. Therefore no more electric gremlins. Just a Chrysler that likes to get out and stretch. I did notice when Advance Auto took over Car Quest their 6 Volt Batteries C.C.A. (Cold Cranking Amps) went down from around 885 to something like 790 or some such. I take that to mean on a real cold Day I might be S.O.L. trying to start it if I move back up North or to the Mountains of N.C.. I will try to keep my Car indoors however, so the likely hood of that happening will be lowered. Tom

If it gets hot where you live, put on a Heat Shield. And some wood Clothes pins on the Gas Line. Problem Solved. Chrysler Products were designed and Engineered in Michigan. Cold is good they like it, Hot not so much. Flat Heads are kind of Like Air Cooled VW Engines designed to live in Germany not the deep South. My Chrysler runs best 70 Degrees and below. Even Better at 20- 60 Degrees. Just the way it is. No big deal. Older Chrysler's love the New England - Michigan Latitudes not way down South. I only base my observations on owning them in the NE and also down South over the last 45 Years.

If you go to ebay and type in 1946 Chrysler, you will be able to buy various Fuel Pumps for a 251 as cores. I just saw 2 one for $10 the other for $22. Youcan observe the armatures as well in the pictures. Airtex has one like the 588 that can also be bought new for around $70. There is an Antique Car Cellar somewhere in the NE that also sells the rebuild kits for these Fuel Pumps as well. I have driven several 1948 Chrysler's for 45 years and would not put electric Fuel Pump on any of them. It is a matter of mechanical pride on my part not to go away from original. These cars are meant for mechanically inclined people. A mechanic. The choice is really between two W's - do you grab a Wrench to fix it? or do you grab your Wallet to fix it? There is no right or wrong, so sensitive types need not reply. This is only my Humble Opinion and nothing more. Tom

Ebay sells the stuff your looking for. There are several salvage yards out west that might have them as well Dessert Valley Parts ETC

Here is a pic of a 251 Chrysler Six Linkage

To the Coatney Family, Sympathy is in order here for your loss. Don was a Luminary in the p15-d24 Forum here. Don was as generous with parts as he was with his knowledge. We all have today, suffered his loss. Thank you for all you have contributed Don. Tom

Gents, Nice Jobs. I bought an extra on ebay just in case I screwed up my original about 5 years ago for around $40. The Original was running a little slow losing about 10 minutes a week. I took it out of my dash, and just gently pulled the tabs back. Opened it carefully no flying springs. I cleaned it and oiled it with a gently blast of PB Blaster. Put it back in and it works fine. The ebay one same thing and even painted the hands back with white paint. I tested it off my battery on my car it also runs fine. Both original 6 Volts Clocks as is the system of my car. It ain't rocket science. A patient mechanical sort of method is called for here though no Mister Bad Wrenches or anyone in a rush to try to force anything along. Slow and Steady wins the race. It is very rewarding to accomplish in fact I encourage anyone to try it. Tom

Noisy Valves are happy Valves

I'm on board with that. Service Manuals. What a concept. True dat.

How about a Clutch adjustment? It doesn't cost anything. Gotta try something it sounds like.

One can also set their 592 plugs to .035 Gap as well as they come set at .030. Any Resistor Plug should be set at .035, or reset them

Once again. Do you have any Clutch Judder? Leakage will wet down a clutch and cause slippage the Front Seal or Fluid Seal are possibly bad but it sounds like Clutch Disk slippage or Judder. Smell has nothing to do with a proper inspection of the Clutch Housing area. Just my humble opinion

I had to Sleeve my Yolk. They Groove, and make things very un-groovy L.O.L.

Make one. Faster and Cheaper

LazyK, My thoughts exactly. One must position a seal correctly. That is to say to hold back the Pumpkin Grease it must be in the correct position. The Cupped side facing the Pumpkin, not facing the Drum/End of an Axle. The Seals shown in the above pictures appear to be in backwards. In my Humble Opinion. I am not trying to incite anyone here - just to help out. Tom

Jsabah, It looks like your seal is in backward?

I just have a 250.6 Six (C-38). So I may be off on some of the Numbers here however my Manual shows a C-39 (323 Eight) as follows: 1. Set Points at 18 Thousands 2. Check Dwell @ 27 -30 3. Start - set Timing 2-6 BTDC (Lean toward 6 because of modern Gas) 4. Use Vacume Gauge to set Carburator Mixture @ 19-21 Deg of Mercury (Or as high as you can get it) 5 Set RPM Last (usually in the 450 range at Idle for a six. 6. Use a decent Tach and Dwell with a RPM Gauge to set things up correctly No run good - something wrong - Conduct tests - Compression Test Cylinders - Vacumm Leaks with Starter fluid around Intake Manifold Gaskets etc etc

Correction: Hecho en Mexico Senor! L.O.L.

I agree with Andy. Just get a gig going separately. That Radio is not hard to repair. I use my phone using (Pandora) with a small speaker attached to my phone at shows. Not a big deal.

I am not sure what you'all are talking about. Goodyear in Concord N.C. put my 1948 Chrysler Royal on their rack and aligned my front end in 20 minutes. It rides like a new Cadillac (I know, I know, what T.H. kind of foreign car is that)? L.O.L.

You have got to re-torque it when hot, otherwise you are wasting your time. Smell the plugs. Change the oil. Do not take a chance on internal engine damage

I went to Frank's Transmission in Concord NC. He put my drive shaft in a Lathe and spun it. While using an Acetylene Torch, Crayon, and cold Water Wet Rag he straightened the Shaft, right on that Lathe, and then installed my new U-Joints in the Drive Shaft with a Ball Peen Hammer, and Wires to hold it until I got home to re-installed it. He only Charged me $80, I told him that was the most interesting thing I have ever witnessed and tipped him generously and left. He even tried to not receive any tip at all. It took him less than 20 minutes. It was as we say in the South - The G.D.est thing I have ever witnessed. I even asked him if he had a degree in physics. He laughed and informed me that he never even finished school. Older Machinists know their stuff. Tom

Kanter had mine (1948 Chrysler Royal) about 10 years ago for $125 each. Mine are the Bat Wing Type. They are in Booton NJ

Run it a while till warm. Take the plugs out and smell them. Do they smell like coolant? If so you have a slow head Gasket Leak. Particularly if say 1 and 2 smell like coolant as was the case in my Head Gasket Leak, or say two adjacent Cylinders. Tom

Ubung macht dem meister. Practice makes perfect. Pick out your Wood whether it is burled Chestnut etc. Apply a base coat . Use Brushes and feathers to complete the application. Then seal with many clear coats. Walla!