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Tom Skinner

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Everything posted by Tom Skinner

  1. In the old days it was called the block petcock drain your engine block with it. Lots of old gunk will probably follow. L.O.L. Tom
  2. Sniper is correct! Of course after Cleaning Plugs and resetting Points and Timing, a Vacume Gauge needs to be hooked up to a vacume port near the Carb and the highest reading (usually 18 - 20 Inches) obtained at the Carb for a correct Carb setting. Tom
  3. Noah, Please re-tune your car. Way back when - 5,000 miles was a good time to, as a matter of fact most guys retinkered/timed their cars every month or so in their driveways to keep them running optimally. I know your plugs will last 10,000 or more but points aren't what they used to be and one other thing to check is your vacume advance (if you have one) is it pulling or leaking? Good Luck. Our Flat Heads like to be advanced on the timing 4-6 Degrees as well from the static timing position. Here is wishing you - Happy Wrench Turning. Tom
  4. I see them on ebay from time to time. Maybe Andy Bernbaum can help also. Tom
  5. Better look at it (As stated use a real short screw)
  6. Wire must be connected as stated in previous post
  7. Earl Gray, Start out in 1st Gear low Range, (Shifter Up and Forward) take your foot off the gas at 8mph (It should Shift up to 2nd) Drive it up to 18-20mph Clutch it at about 18-20mph and move Shifter to Lower Position (3rd and 4th) Now because you are in 4th range no 3rd is needed. Start over from a full stop. (Shifter in Lower Position 3rd Gear) Drive to 16mph take you foot off the Gas it should Up-Shift to 4th. Drive away at anay speed. You shouldn't need to clutch at full stops until you clutch to neutral to park it. This is how to drive the m6 Hydraulic Transmissions operate. I might have missed the bus here but I think you are just over thinking this. Tom
  8. Bob, There is also a Transmission Screen that can be cleaned while refilling the Tranny. Tom
  9. There is also a Transmission Selenoid with a fuse in it. Check the Fuse, if Burnt Replace. Check all wiring for breaks and good connections. Check Tranny Fluid Level, Fill if necessary. It is probably one of these three issues as Fluid Drive Transmissions are usually bullet proof. Tom
  10. I believe the question put forth at the first Thread was a good reliable shop to ship it to. I provided the only one I knew of. The car without a Fluid Drive is only a 3950 LBS paper weight. That being said $1,517 doesn't look so bad after all.
  11. Harvie, Go to Moparmall.com. Select 1939-1949. Select Drive Line Parts. Select Page 2. select Complete Rebuild of your Fluid Drive Coupler. It is $1,517. This is the only one I know of. Tom
  12. Speedy Sleeves the way to go
  13. Old Wool Army Blankets - say from WW2 or Korea work fine too
  14. A very Light tan Enamel?
  15. Clear Sealer much better than black
  16. JSabah, Its easy to do yourself if you have the Rubber and Glass. Just follow your Service Manual Instructions. It is a one man job with a couple of 2" x 4"'s cut just right to prop the Glass against from the front seat to prepare yourself to pull the string around the rubber from the outside for a easy peasy install. Honest. Tom
  17. Happy New Year Rich, and everyone on the Forum! Tom
  18. Try Bill Hirsch 396 Littleton Avenue, Newark, New Jersey, 07103 Phone: 973-642-2404
  19. Yes its Made of thin Cardboard - I make my own say about the thickness of the back of a decent pad of paper (Card Board) backer on the pad is good stock Or thin Gasket Material
  20. Sniper, Look at the Oil Closely. Is it Milky? Compression Check it after re-torque. It may need a new Head Gasket. Change the Oil, if everything Compression Checks well. Keep an eye on it going forward. I had some loose Head Bolts a few years ago and re-tightned them, shortly there after a Head Gasket Failure. It was right before Christmas 2017. When I went in to do the Head Gasket I did a ring job as well. Runs much better now. Tom
  21. Merry Christmas!
  22. Ozzmonaut, It will not be to much to have to Tap it out a tad larger with a Tap and a Larger Bolt. You may have to chase a bit through the Water Pump opening also to allow it to go larger. Also use a Silicone Tape or Dip when re-installing on the threads of the new bolt to prevent coolant leak going forward. Tom
  23. Rich, My Car is inside all the time. Thank Goodness I have a Garage. In addition to that only I can Drive it on weekends unless going to a Car Show. Hagerty (My Carrier) also wants everyone with their Insurance to limit their driving to the tune of about 1000 miles a year Tops. Which I am sure also to do. Thank you for your concern, I have been lucky enough to own this one for 13 Years (A 1948 Chrysler Royal Sedan). Tom
  24. Joe Lee, Cool Cool, That's what I call ingenuity. I really would rather not park outside, however at my age I only need this car another 10 years or so and some one else will own it. I do shop at Tractor Supply also, Great Store! Tom
  25. Staking the Armature Pin Ends puts an end to it falling out. Those New 73201's work. No need to second guess them. At around $70 each buy two and keep one as an extra in the trunk as I have done for 45 years. In the Old Days 588's. Flat Heads Love Fuel Pumps, as much as GM's Like Alternators, and Ford's Love Transmissions. L.O.L. (They eat them). Ahhh for the Love of Chryslerdome. Merry Christmas everybody!
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