Tom Skinner

Dear Shel Bizzy 48, There is no prefix on this motor what does that mean? Tom

I'm trying to find motor numbers for a 1947 Windsor. My Buddy just bought one, and it is a 6 Cylinder without Spitfire on it. In addition to that there is no prefix C38W before the number on the side of the Block. I would give the number here but didn't ask him if it would be OK yet. Any Ideas as to how I could research this further? Tom

Go To www.oldmopar.com there they instuct you as how to wood grain your Dash Board and other Interior Trims. It is a Painting Process, NOT AN ART that doesnt take any real artistic skill. I have done it and I can't even draw a straight line. (There are no straight lines in wood graining metal) Good Luck Tom

Go to a real Lumber Yard, Lowes is for weekend warrieors, or whatever!

5/4 Board still measures an inch, and buy it wide as you like and rip it Dude! Tom

Don, If your wife would buy some new underware you could have her old, and feel like fixing her car, and your sense of selfworth would return. (some make-up to) Instead once again women are just making selfish demands and not sharing or giving, but instead commanding and taking. When will they learn that we men are sensitive creatures to? Tom

Maybe Chip Foots, Or God knows maybe Walter Chrysler's Carl Breer.

Maybe try putting the beer back down on the bench and look at what your doing. Kids are great even though they distract you. Enjoy them they grow up fast. Tom

Lose some weight, those McDonald hamburgers are to damn fattening. Just kidding! Tom

Dear Ian, What are you saying you did? Are you drinking to much beer or on drugs? Replace the seal rubber, man, with new sealant black or clear for a real repair. Tom

Chet, Great garage man I noticed new wood with studs 12" on center. Thats sure to protect a beautiful restoration you are closing in on. Congradulations on the tough work done. Wishing you an enjoyable finish. Tom Skinner (1948 Chrysler Royal) PS. The picture of my Chrysler exceeds the 97mb format limitation here.

Ken, I use 30w non-detergent NAPA oil. Then in the gas for each tank full of gas I add 1 (8oz) bottle of Lead Substitute from STP (also sold at NAPA), and 8oz of Marvel Mystery Oil, (also sold at NAPA). A sort of Cocktail if you will in the gas that makes my 1948 Chrysler Royal (250.6cu.in.) 6 Cylinder Flat Head run like a sewing machine. It only has 53,900 original miles on a never opened engine. If I rebuild it, which I hope to do in the next 5-10 years before I retire I will probably start back with 20w oil just like the Service Maintenance Schedule calls for in the book. I owned a 48 Royal in the 70's and drove it as an everyday car. The rings went, and I rebuilt it myself and used 10-30w oil then the rings went out again every 10-15,000 miles. Now that I know engines better I believe the sleeves had excesive taper, thus my problem, but alas I sold her in 84. I think straight weight is the way to go. Tom

Dear DavidMacK, MkeMaker was right on all counts on the trunk lock, picking the lock, keying it, inserting new key and turning the cylinder to push release pin, not forcing the pin etc. Now for the door Locks. Either remove your ignition switch and build a key from it, or get some special hardened drill bits and remove a door cylinder to get a new key made to fit them. It will/should fit your doors as well. Remember no forcing anything. Slow and steady wins the race. In this case a couple of breaks/as in break frre oil and rests, and other cases, as in beer may be in order as well. Tom

Christopher, I bought my second 48 Chrysler Royal in February at the beach in NC. I had to drive it home 300 miles to Charlotte because it ran, I love to drive em and Freight was $800 and would take a month or more to get, and I didn't want the guy (Seller) backing out so I drove it about 250 miles and a funky Whiring Humzzy sound developed when I came to a rest stop along the Interstate. The Water Pump I thought, I was right I got home and first thing bought a water pump at NAPA for $79, put er in no more Whirzzzezums. Try adding some oil in pecocks at the generator front and back don't overdue it. Its probably something simple don't overeact and start rebuilding engines. Breathe. It vill be alright. Tom

Jim, Get the plugs outa that baby and run a compression test. If its not right break er down and fix her. To run it like that is to risk further engine damage if something is not right inside, like pistons, rings, bearings, or ETC. Good luck! Tom

ksujames, I found a place that reproduces Heat Shields. Paul Taylor Industries P.O. Box 618 Arroyo Grande, CA. 93421 Excellent Original Heat Shield Reproduction Excellent Service, mine came today. The Kit was $35 with $7 S&H. $42 was my total for a Shield for my 1948 Chrysler Royal (C-38) If I were you I would Write this Dude and get one. Tom Skinner

Roberts Auto Parts sells one. Remember to specify a Hose 3 feet Long. That will get you through the Firewall and down to the Frame Area, where you need it to be. Tom

Thanks for the information! I realized the numbers on the block were what I needed after I hung up the phone with the seller of this engine, however, I am really just needing the intake, and exhaust manifolds, not the whole motor although if I drive 10 hours in my pick up truck to buy it the whole things comming home. Tom

Dear Forum Members, Can anyone tell me if the numbers on the head of a Spitfire 6 Cylinder Engine are a diagnostic as to what year the engine is? Or if it is a 250.6 cu. in., or otherwise, say a 230 cu. in., ETC. The Numbers on the Head of the Motor are 1313826-2 near Cylinder #2, with nomenclature of NI near the rear of the engine. If this Motor is a 1948, 1949, ETC. Motor. One more question. Are 1949 Spitfire Sixes interchangable with 1948 Spitfire Sixes? Tom Skinner PS. I know of a Vin Number List that Identifies Years and Models of Chryslers, but I do not know if engine numbers have such a list.

Dear Fred, I am not sure about more than one heater, I have seen dual heaters (one Big one), with heater duct to the drivers side. I'm sure its been done though. By the way are you going to use your Cowl gear sprocket armature that has a stop on it coming out of the side (that is to say) up to the cowl to the srocket (the armature with the angled stop on it) mine is bent badly and I'm looking for a replacement. If not fine, however, if you don't need that particular bracket/armature, I would be very interested it purchasing it from you. Tom Skinner (704) 400-1284