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  1. jsd245

    jsd245

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  2. Dodgeb4ya

    Dodgeb4ya

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  3. P15-D24

    P15-D24

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  4. Brent B3B

    Brent B3B

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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/05/2022 in all areas

  1. jsd245

    1953 B4-GA has arrived

    So, I got her home! Truck is solid, rust here and there but not a total rust bucket. Frame is 100%. the story is it spent it’s entire life on a cranberry farm in Massachusetts . Odometer says around 26,000 miles. I guess I have to assume it’s 126,000 but I’m not so sure given how it was used. Maybe it’s only 26,000? Last transfer Station sticker on it was 2014 so it was probably on the road then. Guy I got it from bought it in 2016 but never moved forward with the project he had planned for it. He actually posted a couple times on here. It had a dump body on it, but I want to put a stake side flatbed on it so I didn’t take it. I kept all the dump mechanism, maybe will make it a dump flatbed. I actually got it fired up today- but it’s not running great and is blowing air and fuel out of the carb. Zero compression on two cylinders so my assumption is sticking Intake valves. Stay tuned!
    4 points
  2. NO silicone sealer....just use heavy gasket paper and carefully make one exactly to match the pump mounting surface. Gasket paper used for this gasket is .012"-.015"
    2 points
  3. On my older Plymouth that uses spur gears in the oil pump, the gasket thickness sets the clearance between the block and the gears. Too thick a gasket and I will experience low oil pressure. Too thin and I guess there could be some rubbing. Way back when I needed a gasket and did not have one available so I put a straight edge across the oil pump and used a feeler gauge to figure out what my clearances were going to be. If I recall correctly, I found that a brown paper shopping bag had the correct thickness and was easy to cut to shape. You have a newer engine than mine but I suspect some of this still holds true. In particular I would be leery of using a silicone instant gasket material as I don’t see how you can control the final thickness of the material after the pump is installed and bolted tight.
    2 points
  4. Hi All, I have my spare three speed with overdrive all torn down and am starting to get in the replacement parts. I took some photos of all the parts. In the event that anyone would like some reference photos, I decided to post them. The painted case is the one I cracked 15 years ago. It could be welded, but I found a NOS one to use. If anyone has a OD Planet assembly with stripped out gears I would love to get it and see if I can get the shield off nice and if one can get the pinions out of it. If a method can be found to do this then going to some gear makers may we worth the effort to be able to rebuild the pinion (planet) units. James
    1 point
  5. Just have them email me at info@p15-d24.com with the username, old and new emails addresses and I can update their profile from the admin center.
    1 point
  6. OK, today I went to O'reillys and asked for the Felpro 3045 kit. It wasn't on the shelf, but the clerk found on in the back of the store. I also bought those hole punches. I would prime the pump by removing it and pouring some motor oil into it. Then, turn the pinion gear before installing it again.
    1 point
  7. Yep, Midwest Military. All seven pieces came to $243 delivered in 2019. I'm sure prices are a lot higher now due to shipping costs.
    1 point
  8. jsd245

    1953 B4-GA has arrived

    I've thought a bit about that. I'm kind of leaning towards wanting to put an original under cab tank in- but I'm not sure if any of the aftermarket available one will fit. The parts book shows different part numbers for the bigger truck tanks than the 1\2 tons. Yet that saddle tank is pretty convenient and I think it looks kind of cool. Its also a 30 gallon tank vs the roughly 19 I guess an original tank would be. But I guess I'd need to figure out a sending unit. All the gauges work on this truck except the fuel gauge because its not hooked up to anything.
    1 point
  9. I will call him "DONUT".....because you like him so much, you'd "eat" him up until he's gone. Its a play on the words "Donor Parts"...."Donor Purts"...."DonoPurt"...."Donut".....!! 48D
    1 point
  10. It's a problem with parts stores getting counter help to find odscure parts at times.
    1 point
  11. Tell a quality knowledgeable parts store to look up ... Fel-Pro 3045 This is a sheet of 1/64" (.015") thick Felpro gasket paper...Felpro, Karropak and a few other companies make many different gasket materials and many thicknesses.
    1 point
  12. Brent B3B

    1953 B4-GA has arrived

    On my B3, (Jimbob) I lucked out and pulled the tappet covers, rotated the motor and found the stuck valve…. I was able to work it back and forth through the spark plug hole without pulling the head. My other trucks, Not so much….. what is the wheel base on it? The photos without a bed, make it look like a 128” to me ( mine are all 152”) either way. What a great father/ son project! Make the most of it dad! 😁
    1 point
  13. pflaming

    LYME INFECTION

    The longer Lyme goes untreated, the worse its effects. I went to urgent care for a cortisone shot in my knee, the nurse saw a red rash on my arm and automatically treated me for possible lyme. When we got home we found the bulls eyed mark on my shoulder. Lyme longevity is unknown, it can reappear years after first infection is ‘overcome’. Not good!
    1 point
  14. I have Fenton style headers from Langdon. When my uncle had this in the late 80's, he added the stacks. When redoing it, I had to keep them. I kept the pipes separate but added an H pipe. I have an 18" Cherry Bomb on each pipe. I used 2" aluminized tubing and bought some premade mandrel bends to splice in where needed.
    1 point
  15. That's a great find! I'd just about bet on the mileage being original; here in the western states it was common for trucks to show very low mileage because they spent their lives chugging around wheat fields in low gear. They may not have had many miles on them, but probably had a bazillion hours on the engines.
    1 point
  16. My brakes are still apart, just waiting or a pair of rear wheel cylinders to arrive, so I'll check tomorrow when I'm at my shop. According to AB's website it's the same p/n for Chrysler and Desoto. Do you need length of front or rear or both?
    1 point
  17. Do you have any pictures of what yours looks like and the important measurements? I have a radiator that doesn't leak. I'm not sure what it's for. It came with my 48 Chrysler parts car, but the top tank is narrow, not the wide one. You'd be welcome to it, However I'm on the south end of Vancouver Island. But if you were coming up this way next July for Deuce Days ( who wouldn't be! ) You could pick it up then, assuming it would work for you.
    1 point
  18. So, while unfortunately I cannot offer any guidance I am definitely watching this thread, I'm in the same boat 30 years ago I painted my interior and engine bay with the dark green. Exterior is all DP40 epoxy primer, also, everything's been covered unless in transport, from CA to CO. Hopefully this all works out for you.
    1 point
  19. That starter is a heavy sucker! I misjudged just how heavy it was when I pulled the last bolt, about to drop it on my face. I had a few quiet moments of reflection there under the car, thinking to myself, "Well, how could we have done things differently, Art?"
    1 point
  20. Los_Control

    LYME INFECTION

    Sorry to hear this Paul. I think all we can do is keep on fighting one day at a time. Life is always one battle after another. I can only hope I am still in battle at 80 years old like you are. I have no suggestions to offer. Just keep swinging. I think we have the same symptoms for different reasons. Took me 3 or 4 days to get the engine out of my wife car .... then a solid 5 days sitting to recover from fatigue. I then got the engine & trans separated and trans sitting on blocks so can move/rotate & connect to new engine. Then it took 2 days sitting to recover. Then I took the wife grocery shopping to walmart ... that takes a day to recover. I understand the fatigue . I use to love reading, old Zane grey novels ... My 85 year old Uncle had them all. Today I cant read a repair manual. Read a paragraph 6 times and cant comprehend what is said. Eventually I figure it out. Doctors gave me a drug that works for others ok, certainly messed me up. I had a major win today, I needed to remove a intake manifold & extract a busted bolt. Had to drill it out, and it went perfect. Weather will be cold tomorrow so I forced myself to work on it today. I will need a few days to recover from fatigue so works out fine. Paul all we can do is jump in the ring and keep swinging.
    1 point
  21. Uh-oh, good thing you mentioned that. I didn't order a different cam hub when I ordered my timing set a few years ago. I'd better check to see if my old one that was boltwd to the original single-row timing set will fit the new (NOS) double-row cam sprocket. Thanks for pointing this out!
    1 point
  22. I'm a little late to your post, but I've built two complete systems now for these flatheads. I called every exhaust shop worth calling in my area, and I wasn't going to spend the money they wanted for a new exhaust and the "kits" available were just as much. Both cars were unmodified single manifolds, but that doesn't make much difference. I bought an assortment of 2" aluminized mandrel bends and pieced mine together using 2" aluminized pipe from front to rear. On your truck, I'd personally run 2" down pipes to the muffler and a 2.25" tailpipe. I think a 2" tailpipe would honestly be big enough. I think most of your performance gain is coming from efficiently removing the gasses out of the engine with the split manifold. In my opinion, a 2 in 1 out muffler would be best and I would clamp the muffler connections. That y pipe looks like it might be a challenge to weld, but I've never done one to know for sure. I had a lot of fun making these systems, but it's not a 100% clean look unless you were to grind all the welds smooth (which I didn't do). I also wouldn't have attempted it without a lift. I mocked everything up on the car and pulled it off to finish welding. The tail pipe came out nearly identical to the original exhaust for the car, so I must have done something right lol. The original tailpipe actually had the mopar part number stamped in it still, but I didn't like the small 1.5" exhaust size. I think each system costs about $150 and about 5-6 hours of time. This is just my opinion and thought I'd share my experience with doing an exhaust on one of these. Maybe it'll help some, but maybe not.
    1 point
  23. Does your paint store have a scanner, or a book of paint chips? When I painted my truck, many years ago, I printed out a copy of the paint chart from the DPETCA site http://dodgepilothouseclub.org/know/color/imgcol/index.htm that shows the DuPont DULUX or DUCO numbers. And although those were no longer good numbers the guy at my local paint supplier made a phone call to someone and was able to get cross to a modern paint code. He then pulled out a giant book of paint chips and located the one that matched the modern code. I had also brought in my glove box door, as the paint on the inside was still in very good original condition. We were able to verify that the chip in the book did match pretty good to the glove box door. He could then mix up the paint I needed. I know some shops also have a scanner that they can use to scan your paint, such as on a glove box door, and match it up to a paint mix.
    1 point
  24. The hosting company has advised they are upgrading the web server software over the next two weeks. This usually requires a server restart and you MAY be required to log back in. Remember you will need to use your registration email instead of your forum username to login!
    1 point
  25. bkahler

    Tie Rod

    The cross bar (wheel to wheel) is just a hollow tube so be very careful with that 100 ton press! You'd be better off using a large vice, a couple of 2x4s to straighten it.
    1 point
  26. Made some progress this weekend. Still no thermostat that fits. I have tried 11, including a new Napa 155, none fit or are missing the rubber seal. Bought a NOS Napa one. Hopefully it works or I will modify the housing to accommodate it. Also have a 4 core aluminum radiator on the way. I put everything together so I could get antifreeze in the block so it wouldn't bust during this cold spell. I will just run it as is till I can get some other stuff caught up. While I had everything apart, I took the time to clean and scrape off a lot of the scruffy red paint and repaint it with the stock silver. Looks a lot better. When I have to oil pan off I will do the same to the underside. Waiting on my fuel pump rebuild kit, and now that I moved the coil, I have no spark. Coil is dented and ancient, plug wires are ratty old lacquered cloth, and distributor cap looked like the rotor has been grinding the hell out of it. Grabbed the distributor from my spare engine, a '53 unit, IAT-4101. I found a NOS Dyna-Flite dual point conversion kit and a pair of NOS autolite points for it, and have them on the way. I still need to figure out what coil will perform best. I know most of y'all wouldn't mess with points, but if I wanted electronics, I would drive a new car. I also made 'conceptual' progress- I came across a early '50s custom that gave me a lot of ideas for how I want the car to turn out: the Bob Alexander coupe. I am not planning on the front end mods, just the shaved handles, deck lid and modified trim. May fill and peak the hood down the road.
    1 point
  27. Thanks for the pic. Well I got it in. I've become an old master at removing and installing clutch linkage. I can see your brake pedal return spring there. Now I know where it goes. Thanks, Marc.
    1 point
  28. RE: Brent It has been noted that when he attends the BBQ (on Brandt Road), his name temporarily changes to "Brendt" in the spirit of congruence.
    1 point
  29. This is my '41 Plymouth that I've had since about 1969. My father got it in a trade for a mid '50's Chevy truck on it's way to the junk yard. It yard drove at the time but was nowhere near road worthy. I started working on it in the mid '70's but with kids coming along and work (construction) it kept getting pushed a little deeper into the "I'll get around to it" file. Retired now and moved into our new home it's time to get this project moving again. Bodywork guy's coming so I put the sheet metal together for fit and to give him an idea how it all goes together. Thanks for looking and being a carpenter by trade I'm gaining a lot of knowledge and information from this forum. Jeff
    1 point
  30. What a great photo! Man, I need to get my butt in gear for a calendar one of these years….. dibs on the bungee cord 😁
    1 point
  31. I know it was a PITA to get the starter out and back into my 48 DeSoto to replace a leaking oil filter elbow in the block. After I was done, I decide to check my very antique Flat Rate Manual and it listed Starter Removal at 0.8 hr and the same for replacement. So it's always been a pain.
    0 points
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