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ratbailey

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ratbailey last won the day on April 11

ratbailey had the most liked content!

Profile Information

  • Location
    NJ
  • My Project Cars
    1948 Desoto Custom Coupe

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  • Location
    brooklyn, ny
  • Interests
    cars, cars, cars

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  1. Cool. I'm pleasantly surprised to have wider rims, which opens up the options for radials on my heap, but on the other hand, I had gone ahead and bought a rim from French Lake to use as a spare, not thinking I had anything other than stock '48 rims on my car, so now I'm stuck with a useless rim. My heirs are going to have a hell of a yard sale, if there's even a market for my junk when I croak. The Kelsey Hayes are a bit better in that they aren't made in two halves, like the stock rim, creating a seam up the center of the rim, which I imagine might leak if used without a liner when going tubeless.
  2. Hey y'all. Took the wheels to the tire shop to have them pry off the crusty 30 year old radials on my '48 DeSoto. I was surprised to not see the DDCP logo or the Mopar part number inside the rim, but "Kelsey Hayes" etched into them. They're 5.5", according to the parts manual, they switched to that size from 4.5 sometime late in production. So, I'm wondering, did these originally come with the car, or are they aftermarket? They have the hubcap clips. Thanks, Art
  3. Oh my goodness, that's a sweet looking ride! I'm not up on all the different models, but I had no idea that Plymouth made a postless (I think that's what that's called) roof style with a wraparound rear window. Congrats on becoming a trained Mopar mechanic...I'm working toward the same goal, slowly.
  4. Hey LeRoy, Yeah, I tore my hair out deciphering incorrect info in my parts book, cross referencing numbers, taking measurements, etc, trying to get the right parts the first time. I'm not out of the woods yet---the spun bearing on the right side wore the axle hub slightly egg shaped, and I think I'm gonna have a problem with the new race. I'm planning to make a shim, and glue it up with LocTite, but I'm nervous about it setting up too quickly, and not allowing me to set the end play. I've used that stuff once on a small bushing and it grabs in a matter of minutes. Fun. I see you went for the +/- .010 end play for our "modern highway speeds", I'm planning to do the same thing. Keep us posted, I'd like to know if you get the clunk resolved
  5. Welp, that was easy. Right tool for the job...where have I heard that before? The mailman delivered the seal driver kit that Sniper recommended (thanks, man). It's niiiice. Precision made, nice finish. Took me a minute to realize that two discs could be stacked... supporting and centering the seal perfectly, like so: Yank out the old one... Gently bash in the new one...never having done this before (correctly, that is) I was overly cautious about when to stop. I used the depth gauge on my vernier caliper to try to figure out when it was most of the way in, but it turns out that the larger disc will be flush with the rim when it's all the way in. Also, the sound changes...you can pretty much tell when you need to stop and you've bottomed out. And finally, you can stick a finger in there and feel when the two edges meet. aaaaand, yer done. Two seals in, less than 45 minutes. I'm now a reformed seal mangler, ready to re-enter society. Thanks everyone, for all the advice! Seriously, I wouldn't have known how to pull this off otherwise. -Art
  6. I don't know about being brave, but I love slogging through a challenge and picking up some new skills. It's also a heck of a lot more fun working on a vehicle I'm not obligated to have back on the road by 7am tomorrow. Shimming it doesn't look like too big a deal. I bought a bunch of shim material from McMaster Carr to make some if necessary. There's some good info right here on this site on the subject. I'm very glad I dug into the job, the right rear bearing was spun, I'm sure it would've been no fun to find that out on a road trip. The mailman just delivered the seal driver to me, it's perfect, really well finished and well made. 60 bucks well spent, and covers every possible size from tiny up to almost 2". I'll post pics when I get them in---I probably won't be able to resist getting them in tonight.
  7. Art Bailey, Rear Axle Seal Manager. The pay's not so good 😆
  8. They're suckers for candy corn, too. Mice seem to have regional food preferences...my first apt. in Dorchester Ma., I decimated a family of mice in under an hour with peanut butter, snap, snap, snap. In NYC, peanut butter was a no-go.
  9. Ah crap, I was all fired up to make a tool and prove my worth 😆 This does cover it, thanks, Sniper...can't pass this up.
  10. Ha! I saw the same thing...I thought it was a '52 Fud rear window grafted onto it.
  11. That's cool! People malign HF, but geez, they really are the go-to place for cheap solutions, and the quality of their tools is not bad at all. Unfortunately, the smallest driver in this set is too large for the seal. I've got plans to fab up something just like this with some random junk around the shop, hopefully after I fulfill all my honey-dos this afternoon. It's really tempting to lay down the 100 bucks just to buy the handle in this set, and save myself the cutting, drilling and tapping, but I think I'm too cheap.
  12. Oldodge41, sure you weren't just looking for an excuse to post a pic of that fine automobile? 😏 Hate those little buggers. I've got my car on stands right now, and I was poking around at the rockers. Found a soft spot, which was paper thin and gave out quickly, and let down a shower of half munched acorns. They had a rager in there at some point, now I'm going to have to do some bodywork. I found their skeletons when I did the initial clean-out of the car, frozen in heroic poses. Serves 'em right.
  13. Thanks, Merle. I think this might be the kick in the butt to get my lathe up and running, it'd be easy to fab up something that'd do the job. Or, an excuse to make the drive to the metal wholesale place, and pick up a big hunk of round stock. So, it sounds like your big drift is big enough to cover the front area of the seal, from the outside edge to the outside edge where the hole begins, and not under that size (if that makes sense). If that's the case, I have a hunk of 3/4" shaft that might do the trick. I used a drift the first time, but it was maybe 3/8", too small, causing the seal to collapse inward. I'll learn to be a decent mechanic yet 😏
  14. Hi- I'm rebuilding the rear axle in my '48 DeSoto, and attempting to install new inner seals. I'm up to two mangled seals. I'm using a piece of black pipe as a driver, as close to the o.d. of the seal as I could find, and I'm using very judiciously applied taps from a hammer. I had better luck on the second try, but I still managed to deform it slightly. I don't want to find out it leaks later, and have to dig it out again. Dodgeb4ya (can't message directly, hope he sees this) posted a pic of a rear seal, installed, in this post: https://p15-d24.com/topic/51665-rear-axle-bearing/ In his pic, it would appear that the cupped side of the seal is facing out, the opposite of what I'd expect. However, it'd seem I'd have a fighting chance of getting the seal to drive in without collapsing if I did it this way, with the lip facing out. My question is, is there any reason I wouldn't want to put the seal in this way? Thinking out loud here, maybe if I shaped a brass drift to a profile like a concave wood gouge, I could be sure I was touching only on the very perimeter of the seal. The original seal, Victor 49143, is much more robust looking, solid on all three sides, and looks like it'd stand up to some taps from a driver. The new seal is pretty flimsy. Unfortunately, I don't have the Miller tool, and not seeing the Miller C-413 on ebay at the moment. Thanks, Art
  15. I rigged a 12v wallwart to provide power to my Sears 12v engine analyzer, did the trick.
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