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ratbailey

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ratbailey last won the day on April 11

ratbailey had the most liked content!

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  • Location
    NJ
  • My Project Cars
    1948 Desoto Custom Coupe

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  • Location
    brooklyn, ny
  • Interests
    cars, cars, cars

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  1. I don't know how common it is for the harmonic balancer to get sitting crooked, but mine is, and I'm going to have to pull the rad for the 87.9th time to get at it, and send it out for rebuild. Might be a good idea to take a look at it and make sure it's spinning without wobble.
  2. 1) Those are soft rubber insulating washers. I made new ones out of bike inner tube. 2) I'd get that sucker a little cleaner. Hit it with CRC electrical parts cleaner and compressed air. Dirt is the enemy of electrons. 3) I'm no expert, but I wouldn't put any lube in there, I don't believe it's necessary since there's no real moving parts. I avoid using WD40 around electrical stuff. I notice you're missing a cork gasket that the cover presses against, which keeps it sealed, and dry and clean inside. That's why it's probably grungy in there, especially if oil from the filter has been dripping on it for years. You might want to get some very thin cork or foam rubber gasket material, and make a new one. It should fill up the indented area in your third pic. 4) I made sure the plunger and cylinder on mine was scrupulously clean, using brake cleaner and scotchbrite on the piston, and lubed it a little with dielectric grease, though I'm not sure it's necessary. I was careful not to get solvent in the hole, to keep it away from the enamel insulation on any windings I couldn't see. I cleaned the cylinder out with solvent on a rag, and compressed air. There's a tapered rubber boot that's supposed to go over it. As far as I know, there's no replacement, so I tried using one from a Chevy starter. It ripped to pieces pretty quickly because it wasn't long enough. You're going to have to hunt for one meant for another purpose, or make one. With no boot, dirt will mix with grease and make grinding paste.
  3. Great tech write-up, thanks for doing this!
  4. I love this car, Keith! I'd guess that kids in their 20s almost never see anything this old riding around. I'm 50, and it wasn't too unusual to see 30s cars still in use when I was a kid. Plus, your '38 looks so friendly and approachable, like a big Irish Setter. Today's cars look so irritated and angry...that red jeep parked in back of you looks like it has a perpetual sinus headache.
  5. ratbailey

    diodes

    Mouser.com should have what you need.
  6. Nice starting point! I wouldn't worry about who you're pissing off, I for one am always super impressed with hot rodding ingenuity. I'm really interested to see how this turns out!
  7. Better than the kitchen table, if you have one of those steel mesh backyard patio tables that you stick the umbrella in, the crud gets forced through the holes when you hose down whatever you're cleaning. If the table's big enough, there's a better chance your wife won't catch you as she chases you around it. Seriously, though, I've never regretted the money spent on my Black and Decker Workmate, an old one with the cast aluminum base. That thing is the Swiss army knife of benches...it's a bench, a vise, a step stool. Just don't use it as a step stool if you plunked a big hunk of plywood on it, and then try to step on the part hanging out in midair.
  8. I'm no expert on anything. But, I rebuilt two different EV2s a total of at least 7 times. My engine still runs like crap. I'm about to rebuild a 3rd, much better preserved carb, with a kit from thecarburetorshop.com. His kit is the best I've seen, expensive, but worth it. He includes a bunch of things others don't, including a new jet screw and spring, and new balls. This time, I'm also going to replace the main jet. I bought it, and the correct tool for removal and replacement, from him. Couple other things. I have 4 bases, and they all are worn badly around the throttle shaft, which will cause a vacuum leak. I'd check that out. I rebushed mine. Also, every air horn/cover thing I have is very warped. Rocks back and forth. The gentleman at carburetorshop.com told me they ALL are warped. His solution is to take two c clamps, slowly and gently bring the clamp down on the corners of the air horn to the carb itself, taking no more than .003 out of the warpage. Toss it in a toaster oven for 5 minutes. Release it from the clamps, see if it's improved. Keep going until it's flat. I have not tried this myself, and plan to proceed with extreme caution. But, I like this idea a lot more than sanding off material.
  9. Wow, jealous you have a personal audience with the great one! I credit (or blame) him for pushing me over the edge to drag a wreck home and let it use up what's left of my brain cells, physical strength and shop and storage space 😆. He claims his videos aren't meant to be how-to, but he's quite a gifted teacher. I've fooled myself into thinking I can do some minor bodywork just from watching him.
  10. I don't even bother checking any other antique car forums for tech info, other than the HAMB...one stop shopping, right here.
  11. Scott on Coldwarmotors did a "will it run" video on one of these: How can you resist?! If I had the space, I'd have a yard full of Mopars. Please let us know if you get it!
  12. Hey Chris- I tore down my starter and reassembled it. Rewrapped the windings with fresh tape, cleaned and lubed everything, painted it, nearly smashed my teeth out trying to heft it back into place. Pressed in new Oilite bushings, had the armature checked at a starter shop. It can be done. First, I'd do what Busycoupe suggests, and do some level 1 cleaning, and just see if you can get it to spin on the bench. I'd carefully disassemble the solenoid, remove the square cover, clean all contacts, put it back together. Remove the brush inspection cover, carefully clean out all the crud. Mine was loaded with oil caked gunk, from years of the leaky oil filter dripping on it. Be warned, if you get it to spin, it's gonna kick HARD and want to fly off the bench, so tie it down. It'll also draw a load of current, so don't do it for long. The square solenoid is made of unobtanium, you're going to pay through the nose for a new one, so it's worth saving. You're missing a rubber boot that goes over the solenoid plunger. I was, too, and the one I yanked from a wreck didn't have one, either. I'll bet they only last 5,000 miles. I kludged one up out of a new one for a Chevy starter, but it ripped it to pieces in use--it wasn't long enough to hold on. Thinking of using some bike inner tube, at least temporarily. The square threaded thingy that screws into the plunger and connects to the yoke lever is calibrated, or supposed to be. Follow the procedure in the shop manual when you reassemble. If you do decide to tear into it, check my posts on the homemade pole shoe screw remover, and links to generator rebuilding. In the last link, go to the last post where I posted a pic of the starter shop manual for the correct orientation of the yoke shoes. That bit of info took me days to track down. Getting the final assembly of the yoke lever together was horrible. You're trying to deal with the yoke spring tension with one hand, which is considerable, while trying to align the parts with the other. That job took hours of swearing, I don't remember how I finally got it done, I think I slipped into a coma. I'm sure there was some special tool or bit of knowledge that would've made this part of the job easy, but I didn't have either. http://legacy.1944gpw.com/c-93-G503_WWII_Jeep_6_volt_Autolite_Generator_Rebuild_Restore.aspx
  13. The junkyard owner keeps saying to me, "Why don't you just buy the car?!" I think I might invest in some battery powered cutting gear, and do that. Great ideas here. I could definitely chop it to pieces where it sits, though, and fill plastic tubs. Maybe even rent a big box truck of some kind, and go nuts on the poor thing for 8 hours, or for as long as my sad 50-year-old carcass will allow...
  14. HA! Yeah, I have hoarder tendencies that I'm trying to curb, as you can clearly see from this thread 🤪 So, I see that the basic advice here is pick this thing over like a Christmas turkey. James, your thread on the u-joints actually prompted me to try to be selective, and grab stuff that's going to become increasingly difficult to find. In the past, I wouldn't have thought of something like a u-joint becoming scarce. The advice to grab little bits like trim molding is good, and will save me from having to fab up a bunch of little metal clips. Ditto for wear items like door latches, clutch and throttle linkage. Thanks, folks...
  15. Good call on the door latch assemblies. For some odd reason, there are inside door plunger locks only on the back doors of the 4 door model, none on the coupe. I was thinking of grafting them onto my coupe, so I could lock the doors from the inside. The junkyard car has got some miles on her, but I wonder if the back doors were slammed less often than the front driver side...might get a couple good latches. It's gonna be a task getting the drums off, they've been buried in the mud for who knows how long.
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