billrigsby

Sorry I just looked at your picture again that's different than a 48, there are no splines, is it already keyed?

You may be able to chase those threads or recut them, or just shorten it and turn it down from 3/4 to 5/8 and recut 5/8 18 threads. Of course you would lose your splines for the steering wheel but you may be able to key it. Just thinking out loud.

Finally, now that the Holidays are over getting back at some of this. Reassembled the carburetor today. Its been sitting on the counter for months. Glad I took a lot of photos during dis-assembly because this diagram is the pits Wish there was a way to 'bench-test' so there are no surprises later on. 🙄

While I'm not sure about how lock washers or split washers would affect torque ratings or values, yes they do belong there, this is from the parts manual, and I also just went to check the block and associated parts that I got back from the Machine Shop which was stock and it does have lock washers.; Here's some basic Fastener information; 10 tricks engineers need to know about fasteners

These are the controls used if you also have the fresh air option..... Without the fresh air option the TEMP and AIR are omitted and blanked off.

Looking very good, what kind of primer are you shooting? I did that once back in the seventies it did not go that well, was spraying 65 Mini Cooper, I guess I had too big of an exhaust fan, one side of the plastic came loose from the staples I had in the rafters Needless to say it just laid down right on the top and side of the car. @#$%^** One step forward two steps back.

I think he was confused by your sequence 😆 I had not seen this, any idea what manual this was from, I see no reference on any of the pages? here is a link; Truck Manual

If you are using Windows 10 I have found that if you resize the photo after you rotate it even ever so slightly it will stay in the new position. I had this problem on a couple other forums. If you're on Apple, Mac or I whatever, not sure what the current flavor is, I'm not sure about it.

You can go to this website and try to decode your serial number, I can't make out exactly what it says completely. https://www.townwagon.com/4853registry/index.php

Finally got out to the parts crates, seems I am OK, One on left is from the original engine, right is from ???, but it is front sump and will work. Glad I heard about this difference before everything was assembled. I do notice no baffling in the rear sum pan?

Well hello, and I know the third one is not a Hyundai Santa Fe forum LOL

So you are the same Tooljunkie! Small world I was wondering.

Yes it's pretty much mix brush on, mix brush on, mix brush on, you get the picture.

When I restored my gray Market Kubota for a lot of the really rusted stuff I used a mixture of acetone and automatic transmission fluid (ATF), I had never heard of this mixture until I was on the OTT, orange tractor talk forum, might be worth a go?

Sounds like I might be in the same boat, I know I have two or three oil pans and probably three or four strainers I'm hoping something there is correct and usable. I'd be curious to see side by side pictures of the strainers though to see just what the difference is?