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About nkeiser

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Nevada, MO
  • My Project Cars
    1953 Dodge 3/4 ton B4C


  • Location
    Nevada, MO
  • Interests
    yard work, welding, tinkering, brewing

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  • Occupation

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  1. Ok, I appologize. My memory was foggier than I thought. I did NOT reuse the stock slotted piece. I originally tried to because I couldn't find the clamp he provided. Once I found the clamp Langdon sent in the distributor box, things made more sense. Here's a picture with the set bolt out and the distributor partially removed.
  2. I remember being frustrated with the instructions as well and being happy when I finally looked at the old one and found the missing piece. I couldn't find any saved pictures, and it's been over a year so the memory is a little foggy. I'l see if I can get a picture in the morning.
  3. The clamp he provides only adjusts the height. You need to reuse the slotted piece from the stock distributor to adjust and lock the timing.
  4. Speedometer cables don't appear to have changed in design over the years. The cable that came on my 53 was a little rough and wasn't long enough to reach the port on the A833 swap. I used a piece of wire to get an approximate length then got a generic speedo cable from O'Reilly's. It screwed right into the 833 and to the stock speedometer. Surprisingly, it's only off by 5 mph.
  5. Here's the best picture I could find of my setup. Dual 32 DFTs on an Offenhauser with air filters and linkage from Langdon.
  6. Autometer with a custom aluminum plate mounting plate. Surprisingly the original speedometer worked, so it was reused.
  7. I didn't have to do any "real" machining. If any, the only thing I had to do was polish to OD down a little bit to fit inside the TO bearing. For that, I just used emery cloth and elbow grease. It was pretty close, so it didn't take much. The only other thing I did was cut it to length.
  8. 275/60R15 for tires. The 218 was freshly rebuilt, 0.030 over, offenhauser intake, dual Langdon carbs and ignition, and fenton style headers. I'm still tweaking on it, so it may not be running optimal. Some of my issue is also learning how to drive it and finding the right power band for the gears. I've found myself shifting too early which really bogs it down. I need to let it rev more before shifting. I've been working on it long enough, I'm just happy to be able to finally drive it.
  9. I have a Ford 9" with 3.73 behind my A833. In my limited highway driving so far, third gear gets it up to speed just fine (60-65 mph). However, overdrive has no acceleration. It'll maintain speed on flat ground, but it won't gain any.
  10. My pickup doesn't have the same crossmember that your's does, so I didn't have that issue. There were lots of other "opportunities" along the way though. The transmission mounting bolts are 9/16", so I had to modify the adapter plate and find some place that had 9/16 bolts. I had to order a bronze bushing to account for the input shaft and throw out bearing diameter differences https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IG7PONW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I mentioned the linkage issue, but that could have been solved if I would have found OEM linkage instead of after market. All of the information and websites that have parts for Hurst shifters cater to after market and don't deal with OEM which of course are all unique. I enjoy fabrication, so I had fun tweaking the shifter to fit. It still needs some work as it has a little slop and can be a knuckle buster going to third.
  11. I used the OEM shift lever, but spliced in a section of 1/2" rod to lengthen it. It also required some heating and bending to get it to the right shape. For the floorboard, it required a small hole to be cut at the corner of the existing plate. I guestimated on size and cut it a little too big. Here's the attached picture pre-installation. Ignore the linkage. I had to get creative to fit aftermarket linkage arms to an OEM shifter and transmission. 1-2 and 3-4 are backwards (1-2 is on the right side of the H).
  12. My 1953 B4C finally put together enough to make it to my first show (and drive more than 2 blocks from the shop). The plan is to hook the exhaust back up to the stacks. For now, it's scabbed together to get it just behind the cab. I was test driving it with an incomplete floor, so I was tired of the noise, heat, and fumes being piped directly into the cab. Test drives with no windshield, no hood, and no doors do generate some odd looks from people. The cop just smiled and waved though.
  13. Mine was at a machine shop for a year and a half. I tore it completely apart, so they just had to machine it and assemble it. I even left the shop manual. All that they got done was cleaning the block and head, decked the block, and rough honed the cylinders. I finally picked it up and dropped it off at another shop who had it back to me in two months. It wasn't a fancy modern race engine or a SBC that they could do with their eyes closed.
  14. I used these with no issues. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/PIO-PG-362-25/?rtype=10
  15. The local steel supply place had it. It's not exhaust tubing. It's standard low carbon steel tubing.
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