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nkeiser

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    42
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About nkeiser

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Nevada, MO
  • My Project Cars
    1953 Dodge 3/4 ton B4C

Converted

  • Location
    Nevada, MO
  • Interests
    yard work, welding, tinkering, brewing

Contact Methods

  • Occupation
    Engineer

Recent Profile Visitors

644 profile views
  1. Here's the best picture I could find of my setup. Dual 32 DFTs on an Offenhauser with air filters and linkage from Langdon.
  2. Autometer with a custom aluminum plate mounting plate. Surprisingly the original speedometer worked, so it was reused.
  3. I didn't have to do any "real" machining. If any, the only thing I had to do was polish to OD down a little bit to fit inside the TO bearing. For that, I just used emery cloth and elbow grease. It was pretty close, so it didn't take much. The only other thing I did was cut it to length.
  4. 275/60R15 for tires. The 218 was freshly rebuilt, 0.030 over, offenhauser intake, dual Langdon carbs and ignition, and fenton style headers. I'm still tweaking on it, so it may not be running optimal. Some of my issue is also learning how to drive it and finding the right power band for the gears. I've found myself shifting too early which really bogs it down. I need to let it rev more before shifting. I've been working on it long enough, I'm just happy to be able to finally drive it.
  5. I have a Ford 9" with 3.73 behind my A833. In my limited highway driving so far, third gear gets it up to speed just fine (60-65 mph). However, overdrive has no acceleration. It'll maintain speed on flat ground, but it won't gain any.
  6. My pickup doesn't have the same crossmember that your's does, so I didn't have that issue. There were lots of other "opportunities" along the way though. The transmission mounting bolts are 9/16", so I had to modify the adapter plate and find some place that had 9/16 bolts. I had to order a bronze bushing to account for the input shaft and throw out bearing diameter differences https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IG7PONW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I mentioned the linkage issue, but that could have been solved if I would have found OEM linkage instead of after market. All of the information and websites that have parts for Hurst shifters cater to after market and don't deal with OEM which of course are all unique. I enjoy fabrication, so I had fun tweaking the shifter to fit. It still needs some work as it has a little slop and can be a knuckle buster going to third.
  7. I used the OEM shift lever, but spliced in a section of 1/2" rod to lengthen it. It also required some heating and bending to get it to the right shape. For the floorboard, it required a small hole to be cut at the corner of the existing plate. I guestimated on size and cut it a little too big. Here's the attached picture pre-installation. Ignore the linkage. I had to get creative to fit aftermarket linkage arms to an OEM shifter and transmission. 1-2 and 3-4 are backwards (1-2 is on the right side of the H).
  8. My 1953 B4C finally put together enough to make it to my first show (and drive more than 2 blocks from the shop). The plan is to hook the exhaust back up to the stacks. For now, it's scabbed together to get it just behind the cab. I was test driving it with an incomplete floor, so I was tired of the noise, heat, and fumes being piped directly into the cab. Test drives with no windshield, no hood, and no doors do generate some odd looks from people. The cop just smiled and waved though.
  9. Mine was at a machine shop for a year and a half. I tore it completely apart, so they just had to machine it and assemble it. I even left the shop manual. All that they got done was cleaning the block and head, decked the block, and rough honed the cylinders. I finally picked it up and dropped it off at another shop who had it back to me in two months. It wasn't a fancy modern race engine or a SBC that they could do with their eyes closed.
  10. I used these with no issues. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/PIO-PG-362-25/?rtype=10
  11. The local steel supply place had it. It's not exhaust tubing. It's standard low carbon steel tubing.
  12. I had a donor tailgate that also had a bad lower tube. I tried hammering a support tube through, but was unsuccessful. I ended up buying a piece of 1.25" steel tubing to replace the existing rolled piece. I also had to widen it out to fit the wide bed. It was easiest to make a blank tailgate then weld the dodge part to it.
  13. My 218 has a very similar looking crack in almost the exact same place. I just got done fixing it this evening with JB Weld Extreme Heat that I had leftover from fixing a hole I made in the exhaust port.
  14. Chlorinated solvents are bad news. They usually pass right through normal gloves and are absorbed into the body. Metalized gloves are the only way to guarantee you won't have any go into your skin.On the other hand, this characteristic makes them great solvents for lots of different things.
  15. I stumbled across this page the other day while looking for the same information. I haven't started wiring yet, so I'm no help aside from this link. http://www.how-to-build-hotrods.com/electric-fuel-pump.html
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