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FarmerJon

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  • Gender
    Male
  • My Project Cars
    1948 Plymouth Special Deluxe Club Coupe

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  • Location
    Central Virgina
  • Interests
    America

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  • Occupation
    Assembler

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  1. I have the same car, a mostly stock '48 Special Deluxe. My only performance modification is a dual exhaust and a good tune up. No headers, just a split factory manifold. Stock Rear end ratio is 3.9-1. Someone could have swapped a 4.1 center in, but even if so, car is mechanically capable of 70+mph Is your car unable to exceed 55mph, or are you unwilling to drive faster than 55mph? I have run up to 75 or so, but it handles much nicer at 65. If you have the pedal to the floor at 55 and it won't go any faster, then you need to find the problem and fix it. Only real way to alter cruising RPM at a given speed is to alter your final drive ratio. You could change rear gear ratios, there are 3.73 and 3.54 ratios that can be found for your existing axle. You could put a taller tire on the rear. Or you can swap some sort of overdrive transmission in. '52-56 a Overdrive was offered as an option, it is a direct bolt in to your car. Many people here have installed the more modern T5 transmission. As far as performance out of the flathead six, there are gains to be had.
  2. Keith, with the new gauge, what temps are you seeing? A spacer to get the fan closer to the radiator and a shroud would help with the cooling efficiency and also theoretically reduce the horsepower needed to drive the fan. Win/win Evans coolant is a neat product that I would like to try one day. There are also "water wetter" products that are supposed to help with conventional coolant mixes. I don't really get why y'all are so freaked out by 180-200 temps. Those are ideal temps to me. I was pretty disappointed to find that my 180 thermostat keeps me around 175 most of the time, and am planning to swap in a 195 stat soon. 160f is great for burning more fuel, making less power, and causing extra sludge to form in that non detergent, straight weight oil you guys all swear by.
  3. I am no professional wheel cylinder repair man, but with the few I have done in the past, the kits I currently have, and the various kits I opened when I worked at a parts counter years ago, I have never seen a packet of lube in a wheel or master cylinder rebuild kit. The hard rule I was taught about rebuilding wheel cylinders was to use brake fluid as your assembly lube. Absolutely every resource I have seen says DO NOT MIX silicone and glycol base fluids. Applying silicone assembly lube would totally fly in the face of what every manufacturer recommends. As an aside, just got a master back from White Post. Looks to be very clean work, I will deal with them again in the future.
  4. I don't like to use brake hoses if I don't know how old they are, or if more than 8-10 years old. They can collapse inside and cause major pita to diagnose. The reason major manufacturers don't use Dot 5 (silicone) is that it ISN'T better than Dot3/4/5.1. Yes it doesn't absorb water, so instead any water that gets in, sits in the low points of system, still causing rust. It doesn't perform as well, and gives a mushy pedal feel that many don't like. It also doesn't do a very good job lubricating seals. If your car only drives a few miles a year and is stored indoors, it may be a good choice but if you are going to drive it try a quality Dot 4 or 5.1 and just flush it out every other year.
  5. I did mine a few months back, not so hard, but had trouble getting the check valves to seat. I hope this helps! https://p15-d24.com/topic/57288-fuel-pump-rebuild-help/
  6. Where is #thebelvedereman ? Isn't that the front end you want?
  7. For the record, the main reason for NOT dumping Ethylene glycol on the ground isn't just to appease the eco-nazis of the Wrong coast. Ethylene glycol is a toxin that doesn't rapidly degrade and will poison your ground and surface water. Buy the $6 drain pan and collect it up and return it to your local parts store or landfill on "household waste day". Also, it makes asphalt slippery. It isn't a Left vs Right issue. Toxic in water is bad. Don't be lazy, do the right thing.
  8. My 12v light worked but was pretty dim on 6v. Hooking it to a spare battery sounds like a good idea! I don't know if a wobbly radiator fan would cause missing, but it certainly could make a bad vibration and be a hazard to your radiator. Iirc, you can take the stock one off and put the pulley back on with the same bolts. Should tell you if a problem is being caused by the fan, but don't let it idle long! ETA: check your water pump while you are there, make sure it turns freely, smoothly and doesn't have excessive play or wobble.
  9. Get off my transmission, Bryan!
  10. Yeah, their website is almost as intolerable as 'Dons mopars'. Wow, just had some drums turned, this did not even cross my mind, but makes total sense!! Terrell machine in Texas rebuilds fuel pumps, he was a pleasure to work with when he did my vacuum advance unit. I have a fuel/vacuum pump I plan on sending him in the near future.
  11. I have been hunting for a R10, and saw those. I am unwilling to gamble $1k on those mudballs. The seller gives just enough info to be suspicious. If I had $3000 worth of transmission to sell, I would pressure wash them, drain oil to check for water, and check that they turn smooth and that regular shift levers can move normally. Kinda the least you can do, unless you know they are out of flood cars, and are nearly locked up, and don't care if they sell. On the flip side, shipping is included, so really they are $750+shipping. Maybe people will snap them up, I don't know.
  12. When I rebuilt my pump I found that the pin supplied with my kit was significantly smaller than my original, .010 or so. I was able to reuse my original one, and staked it well to keep it from wandering. OP, to believe the original, glass bowl pump is an AC 588, but you may find that yours is a Carter or other variant that isn't compatible with the AC rebuild kit.
  13. Have you emailed Tim Kingsbury? I believe he has many old Mopar engineering documents, and has lots of hands on experience with the insides of the engines.
  14. In my experience, chemical cleaners work best as a maintenance item, but usually are ineffective once things are fully clogged. Cooling systems and fuel systems both. The cleaner needs to be able to flow through all the passages, removing buildup as it does. If stuff is broken, cleaners won't fix them.
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