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James_Douglas last won the day on December 18 2021

James_Douglas had the most liked content!


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    Long time classic car guy. I can be hounded directly at JDD (at) 8bells dot commercial.
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    San Francisco
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    Planes, Trains, and Automobiles

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  1. Yes, it was in fact polarity sensitive. The issue is the direct of the electron flow THROUGH the switch. They built a switch where the direction of flow through the switch was important to the life of the part. There is a small transfer of contact metal, just like in points, from the contact surfaces in the switch. I suspect that they figured that if the flow was one direction versus the other that the switch lasted longer. I can dig up the Chrysler technical note if I have to. But all it says is they superseded the switch and tells you which wire to put where. I also assume that once they went to 12 volts in 1956 the higher voltage solved the problem. James
  2. Hey Sniper, Shims do not work well in transmissions. They tend to get ground up and then they fail and ball up and make a mess. That is why I plated the last one. I have order another clutch gear. Perhaps I will get one that is a hair thicker and that will help. If not, then off to the industrial hard chrome shop it goes... James
  3. https://www.web.imperialclub.info/Repair/Lit/Films/018/index.htm https://www.web.imperialclub.info/Repair/Lit/Films/019/index.htm
  4. There was a Chrysler technical note in the early 1950's on this subject. I have it someplace. Basically they knew they were having problems with the switch on the 6 volt cars. What they did was to create a new switch that was POLARITY SENSITIVE that addresses issue ---supposedly. These can be identified by the fact that one of the two studs or mounting points is longer then the other. I never have noted the difference in longevity. I always keep a spare in the car and a long socket with me just in case. If you are quick the fluid just runs out and no air gets in. James PS. On the '49 when I did the 4 wheel disc with the remote power brake booster I put the switch in there and can sit in the trunk and change it easy. It is also out of the dirt and heat of the engine bay.
  5. WONKING... There are some difference in the flow when the pipe size increases. Steel is not particularly smooth like some other materials. One can get better laminar flow if increasing the diameter. But for the purposes of classic car use, the differences have little real world meaning. I like using larger brake lines for brakes. Why? The fluid has more volume in the system and as such will absorb more water between flushes every few years. With gas lines one benefits of larger lines in the engine bay is more time before it heats up in stalled traffic situations and hits the vapor point. Of course once it does get hot, it takes longer to cool off. James
  6. I purchased stock and had a machine shop cut them out on a jet cutter. One pass on the shim stock mounted on a block of wood and they cut out a bunch of 10 thou and one thou shims for me. James
  7. I think is was a lot more on the order of 30 thousands. I have a photo that is labeled "thirty-three-thou". In any case I would mount what I was going to use and do what I did which was take a long straight edge and place it on the large gear and see if the small gear is on the same plane. If not, shim it out until it is. The shims do not rotate separate from the gear or the shaft to once on they will never wear or cause any other issues. Having the chin not have any side thrust is a very good idea! James
  8. What a PITA! So, one of the things that has made my transmission, not the overdrive, run so nice is that I held very close to the bottom end of all the specifications for end play on everything. Like the second gear at .003. (Second gear is supposed ot be .003 to .008) Well, I pulled the NORS main shaft, the NORS clutch gear (Syncro) and the NOS second gear. I clean them all good and placed them on the clean shaft and took a measurement. What do I get? I get .012 to .014 inch. F&*#&#&#&K. I used the largest snap ring that is made which is .097 inch. So, her we go again. I will have to take the second gear to the industrial hard chrome shop and have them plate the back side of the second gear to make up about .010 to get it to .003 to .004. That costs more than the gear itself. I tried the old clutch gear and it comes out a little better about .008 to .010. A classic case of stacking tolerances, but in this case in the wrong direction. One could see if a larger snap ring can be found, it would have to be one larger than the factory ever showed in their parts books, and lathe the groove open to take it. The only problem with that is that it would push the clutch gear back and affect the position of the shift fork. I think plating the rear of the second gear is probably the best thing to do and it has worked for 15 years on the current trans. Time for a drink! James
  9. I have a pile of documentation from MOPAR Service Manuals, to Borg Warner Service Manuals, to 3rd party Service Manuals. In some cases I have them over a few decades. If I go through them all, some state to use a particular motor oil and some say to use a particular gear oil. All in the same transmissions. When one takes those recommendations and plots them onto one of the charts as above they all fall on, or near, the same horizontal line. One thing to note. Viscosity IS NOT the same thing as Viscosity Index. Viscosity Index (VI) is the measure of how well any particular viscosity hold up to increased heat. This is important in things like the fluid coupling and to some extent to the engine. It is not terrible important in a manual transmission or rear-end as the oils do not get nearly as hot. One of the things that the VP of Engineering told me at Gyrol was that in a fluid coupling the VI is very important and that the additives that increase VI do break down after 5 to 7 years. Even in the can of unused fluid. Interestingly, my Borg Warner Service Manual for the overdrive in addition to stating the "Under no circumstances must a lubricant of the Hypoid Axel Type be used in an overdrive." also states that a, "Most satisfactory all-around lubricant for the overdrives is SAE No. 40 Engine Oil of a good grade. For extremely hard driving in hot climates, SAE No.50 may be used. Straight mineral oils of the transmission type, SAE No. 80 for all around use or No. 90 for hard driving in hot climates, will also be satisfactory." Borg Warner made a lot of the internal parts for Chrysler for the 3 speed transmissions. James
  10. I would grind them off flat, then drill a hole. Then buy some weld nuts. Weld them in. Treat the metal bracket so it does not rust. Then you can get at McMaster-Carr brass studs. Screw in the brass stud to the welded nut then install the part with a stainless nut on the stud. By doing this the trim part nor the stainless nut will ever rust in place again. I did this on all my Desoto's and it works great. Be happy your grill is not diecast. The Chrome bill for a 40's grill is in the thousands of dollars. James
  11. SAE Engine oil weights ARE NOT the same as Gear Oil Weights. So a 75 weight gear oil is about a 15 weight motor oil as far as viscosity goes. James
  12. The one thing that tossed me for a loop was after I mounted the thing in place I noticed that the two gears were NOT in the same plane. I had to order shim stock and jet cut some shims to move out the crankshaft sprocket a little to have both gears dead flat on the same plane. All new gears and chain. When you start mixing crankshafts, camshafts and new gears, sometimes something is not going to line up. James
  13. I am slowly collecting up everything I need to have a near new transmission and overdrive. I would be happy if I could find a NOS Planet (Pinion) assembly for the OD, but I have never even seen one for sale. James
  14. Everyone should print this out and stick it on the garage wall...James viscross.pdf
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