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James_Douglas last won the day on January 29

James_Douglas had the most liked content!


About James_Douglas

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    Guru, have been a long time contributor

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    I am just a geek who likes old cars. We drive a 1947 Desoto Suburban as our daily driver.
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  • My Project Cars


  • Location
    San Francisco
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    Planes, Trains, and Automobiles

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  1. I will find out at some point. I have a steering column I am going to get with a 1954 Powerflite. I will be cutting up that column and my spare steering box and its shaft for that electric power assist. I should know in about 6 to 8 months if this will work. James
  2. One of the issues with the modern seals is that they are very intolerant of shaft movement or incorrect shaft size. The old leather was much more forgiving on those items. One needs to make sure that the shaft size is within the specification of the seal one wants to use. I have an issue on my 1949 Desoto. The hubs supplied with the front disc brake kit had seals that were too tight. When I took it apart after about 2000 miles the grease was jet back. The seal lip had been ground off by the spindle. When I ran down the seal number at CR it became apparent that the seal was for a FIXED shaft size. My spindle is about 4 thousands over that. The CR engineering team told me that there is no plus or minus spec on that seal. I should machine my spindle down to that size. I elected to just clean up the seals that had already been "lapped" to shape. I will check it again in 2000 miles and if the grease is not coming out, then I will forget about it for now. Just be sure you check the seal specification sheets and make sure that the seal is within the shaft size. James.
  3. On the rebuild of the 1947 Desoto, I intend on using the following as unlike Uni-steer and the others, this unit is rated to deal with my 5500 pound car. https://epasperformance.com/products/custom-power-steering-kit James
  4. Two things to check. First, make sure the oil level is correct. I have seen people fill it on the bench and over fill it. Not good. It should be checked in the car, COLD, via the hole in the floor board. That hole is in the correct spot to fill the thing to the correct level. The second thing is to use the correct fluid. Not ATF not this and not that. Go read my write up and use the correct fluid. One last thing. Some people placed BOLTS in place of the fill plug that turns the fluid coupling into a big flywheel, I carry one such bolt on road trips just in case the coupling fails as one can put the bolt in and drive it like a stick. James
  5. All they did was grind a stock set of bolts to fit the existing hole. I will do what I did on the 251. Flatten the top and bottom and use the ARP 315C bolts. Worked so far for 40K plus miles...
  6. No, the steel plates are to hold the old leather in place. If you have every seen an NOS leather boot, they come with them on either end, they just come off over time. Use the modern rubber boot without anything. It is not a friction issue of sliding. It is that the PCV or thick rubber ones are so thick that the distance from the the underside of the tire rod housing to the face of the spindle arm (or drag link) is not enough to accommodate a thick wall boot. When you tighten the nut you bind that material between the two. The solution is to use a much thinner boot. James.
  7. I did some digging through my decade old photos and I could not find a good photo of the head six of the rod modifications. I did see that the machinist beveled the ends of the rod bolts and you can see that a good photo. I suspect that the rods can be made to use the ARP 351C bolts for a lot less money that to have bolts made for the 265 or the 251. James.
  8. In the attached photos you can see the remanufactured Federal Mogul Rod. It appears what they did was to take stock rod bolts and grind the sides to fit in place of the 265 special rod bolts. I am assuming the heads will clear, but until I have the 265 apart and can stick this in and see...it is an assumption. I do not have a 265 bolt other than what is in the engine to rebuild. However, in the photos I show a stock rod bolt, the modified rod bolt and one of the 351C ARP bolts used in my 251 engine. In red I show the areas we modified my 251 rods. Basically we milled the top and the bottom flat so that the head and nut can sit on a flat surface. I suspect that since the ARP head is not as tall as the stock units and the 265 looks like it has a deeper recess than the 251 (from memory), that if you milled a set of 265 rods and used the ARP 351C bolts one may be good to go. Do remember that I have been using the 251 rods with this modification for over 40K miles in a car that is 5000-5500 pounds. So as long as it is done correctly, being careful to make sure no stress risers or nicks are left to cause problems, this may be a solution to the 265 rod bolt issues. What I will do next spring, if someone does not do it first and post the results is... Take a 237/251 rod and grind at home the head an nut side down, not worrying about ever using that rod again. Then stick it in a 265 and see if it clears and by how much. Remember stretch. If it looks good then when the engine is rebuilt have the shop do one of the 265 rods and try it. If it clears then do them all. Best, James
  9. Are you getting on of the Engines from Down Under for your ride? I looked into it. The import duty and availability on short notice of parts was a concern for me traveling around the USA with that engine. James.
  10. One of the places that loose oil pressure, and many people ascribe it to the came bearings, is the rear of the cam. On these engines there is not bearing at the rear. Just the cast iron block. That area wears over time and when a reground cam is put in, with the rear journal of the cam cleaned up, the clearance can be too much. The oil pours out the back. There were aftermarket companies that made restriction plugs to try and help with this. The best thing to do is tell your machinist to make sure that the clearance is within spec. I will on the 265 have then machine out that spot on the block and press in a hardened steel bushing. A good tight fit will keep oil from pouring out the rear. James.
  11. I took the '49 up to the house and put it on the rack for the winter. While there, still on the bench from summer, was the Dorman kit with the two boots in it. One boot is way too big, the other worked just fine on the '49. The part number is 13567. Just toss the big one in the odd parts bin and use the small one. Each part number gets you a SINGLE boot. I do not use any washers, steel plates, or anything else. Clean it all out of the way and just use the boot. James.
  12. Jason, Why would you use six injectors? Also, be very careful if you place the injectors to close to the ports on the block. There are very serious issues with reversion when injecting Siamese ports. The "A" engine guys with British Sports Cars found out the hard way on that issue. Also, one has to deal with the "wall fuel" issue. In some cases, I an starting to think in the case of Siamese ports, that it is an issue...it may be better to move the injectors up into the throttle bodies. The more I read on the development of FI the more I realize that it is quite complex and every little change in design can have a very large impact on the final outcome. I would suggest that you get a few books on the subject and read them. I have been for a month and they have brought up issues I would never have thought of had I not read the books. James.
  13. I checked with ARP and they will make them...but I have not priced it out yet. I was planning on sending one to them insured for enough if it got lost to pay for two sets :-) I suspect that if a few of us wanted some the unit price would go down. Interesting in that I purchased a rod of ebay that is supposed to be a 265. It has the "cut" on the side of the rod but the bolt is from a 251. However, the bolt head has been recesses deep into the rod so that I suspect it will clear. The Rod is in a Federal Mogul Reman box.
  14. Be careful with the replacement boots. Some are WAY to thick and when you put them on they cause binding on the steering. I found out the hard way on my 1949. When they are tightened down the material is too thick and it binds so the ball stud is not free to pivot. Doorman makes some boots that are a thinner material as opposed to some of those hanging on the auto parts or hot rod shops walls. I found some that work...but the part numbers are up at the house and I will not be there for a few weeks. James
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