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James_Douglas last won the day on January 29 2019

James_Douglas had the most liked content!


About James_Douglas

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    Guru, have been a long time contributor

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  • Biography
    I am just a geek who likes old cars. We drive a 1947 Desoto Suburban as our daily driver.
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  • My Project Cars


  • Location
    San Francisco
  • Interests
    Planes, Trains, and Automobiles

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  1. We were thinking of hitting Air Venture and the Desoto Convention...but...perhaps next year... James.
  2. Ed, How about some photos of the Rack & Pinion you used. I would like to see how it is mounted and show the tie rod angles came out. Any evidence of bump steer if you "cheated" at all on the angles and lengths? James.
  3. Anyone that lives in the area of St. Louis MO, that knows of a good top flight classic car repair or restoration house? I may need to get (pay) a professional to go look at a Chrysler I am interested in that area. I cannot get out of San Francisco right now. If anyone has any leads, i would appreciate it. James.
  4. I agree. As someone who has rebuilt several of these transmissions... I have found that the oil pumps tend to get worn but still produce enough pressure. I have seen in a couple of instances that the problem being described is not the oil pump but a bad shuttle valve. The spring is bad for the valve or bore had issues so it does not slide properly. The Direct speed blocker ring, the clutch it goes into and the input shaft are well documented. If they get messed up, the thing will never work correct. One thing to add. The clearances listed in the repair books ARE CRITICAL to having a very good functioning transmission versus just and OK functioning one. If something calls for a particular clearance, try to get it right in the middle of the specification range and not on either edge of it. Contact me directly and I can email you a bunch of items that may help. James.
  5. There is an other long lost way to time and engine without anything other than a glass of water. You fill clear glass cup with water. Place it flat on the head. Start the engine. Note the wave pattern in the cup while turning the distributor in both directions. Keep doing this until you get an even wave form, like dropping a rock in the middle of a dead still pond and the ripples are even. I learned this technique from an old timer when I was a kid and had no money for a timing light. When you get good at it, usually you can get to within a few degrees of using a timing light. *********** Now all that said if this is a new engine, have you done a compression and leak down test to make sure the rings are sealing? James.
  6. Anyone know why they made two different thickness of balancers? Was one for a stick and the other fluid drive? I have both in my parts bins, and I always wondered what was up with that. James.
  7. I cannot remember if I used a Wilwood or something else. But here a photos of it and I have been using it for a decade. Also, the rear plug on the master cylinder will screw into the top. If a single hole plug you just round a line up to the fire wall and you attach a remote fill of your choice. If a two hole, you can plug one and use the the other. James.
  8. I have been advised that I need to keep 1/2 inch between the chopper wheel and the pulley to make sure that the steel of the pulley does not interfere with the sensor. James.
  9. The issue as I understand it is "wall loading" of fuel when using injectors. A carburetor mixes the air and fuel by the time it leaves the base. In TBI it mixes down further. The "accelerator pump" of fuel injection is in part the fuel that sticks to the walls of the manifold from the injection The revision from the Siamese Ports can cause issues with that. The guys in England doing FI on those MBC engines with Siamese ports had issues. Given my time line it is likely that you will get out of the gate long before I do. Keep me posted. James
  10. I actually talked with someone years ago that knew the family and the car. The 2020's are not the 1950's and 1960's. Lower octane gas and a lot less traffic. Also, people back then had a sense of grace and would go around and give someone a break in an older car. Not today.
  11. Well. As someone who has been driving a flathead six as MY ONLY driver for 20 years, I think I am in a position to talk about the reliability of the stock design. In general, they are reliable as is. In my particular case however, I will be using the car in retirement to travel the USA in it. I t also comes in at 5000 pounds and going over the mountain means power loss at altitude. That is why I want FI. If I was going to use my '49 Convertible to travel the USA, I would not bother. The 1000 pound lower weight means there is more than enough power to keep up with traffic over the mountains. In the '47 Suburban it is just not their. It is all about power to weight ratio. I can tell you that many parts are becoming hard to get or junk. SMP Bluestreak moved its production of ignition products to Mexico from NY about 8 years ago. Since then the points have been junk, with multiple sets I have had to send back. When my system is done, I will buy two or three engine controllers, magnetic pick ups, and coil packs, throttle position sensors and the like. That stock will last until I am about 150 years old :-) Everything else is steel and should last forever. James.
  12. So, exactly how are you going to use TBI if I may ask? What manifold? My plan is not strictly port injection nor is it TBI. I have spent months reading and talking with people who do FI to figure out the best way to do it with the flathead and the Siamese ports. Since I own the Edmunds and have a lot of Carter BB's I tore apart for spare parts...I have bunch of bases. I looked at a half dozen air valves and it would be a lot of work to get those to work with a lot of custom machining. I also looked at all the available TBI from Holley and the like and none of them are rated to work down below 150 HP. I looked at a couple of people making custom units for guys like us with low HP cars...but they cost a ton and leave too much for the customer to figure out. In the end, I think that if one can source a two 1BBL manifold and strip two dead carters for the base part...get George Asche linkage...and find a place to insert bugs...in the end it will be less work at the mechanical end. The real work is going to be making the fuel maps. Self learning is not going to work well with Siamese ports. A lot of issues there that will have to be addressed. I suggest that you pick up a copy of Greg Banish's book on fuel injection systems and read it 3 or 4 times like I did. The fuel mapping is going to be a lot more complicated and expensive than one thinks to get it correct. Spending money on a loading chassis dyno is going to be a must. James.
  13. No. The aluminum is not nearly as strong as the cast iron. If I did I think it would crack.
  14. Hi all, I am managing to get a little work done in the garage. I spend most of my day cleaning and cooking. Sondra is playing Russian Roulette at work every day in the ICU here in San Francisco. Over the last couple of days I have mocked up the first try at a crankshaft trigger for a flathead six in cardboard. I am thinking of a somewhat thin plate that would go between the hub and pulley, just like the small second pulley on my industrial block. Then a spacer that goes over the edge of the hub (represented by 3 little pieces of cardboard) then the thicker steel wheel with the teeth on it. It looks like the wheel will fit. I think I may trim the engine mount just a bit so that if the motor mount were to flex a little too much it would still clear the chopper wheel. I will have to make a new pointer as the Industrial thick belt pulley is 7 inch, but that is ok as it will raise the RPM for the accessories. I will also have to make a bracket on the timing cover for the magnetic pickup. I may move the timing on the harmonic balance to the opposite side so I can make one bracket for the pointer and to hold the magnet. I am sending the balancer to get rebuilt, so, moving the outer ring to a new point would not be a big deal. I included a couple of photos of the Edmunds Intake with the dual exhaust. I am going to use two Carter 1BBL bases as the throttle valves. They are steel and fit perfect. With Asche linkage I have the "air valve" package basically ready to go. I will rebuild them so the throttle shafts fit nice and I will solder the little holes closed in the valves. I will need to make a couple of short stakes that go up to an air cleaner. Not a big deal, just time and money. One thing is that between the Edmunds and the Headers there is a lot of "core shift" the standard washers to mount them will not work. I will have to make a custom set to bridge the gaps which are not the same on either side. Also, the Edmunds is thicker than the cast iron exhaust so one side of the custom washer will have to be thinner than the other. On the Edmunds Intake, the plan is to drill and put bugs in the base of each runner. Use one Fuel Injector in each and double wire them. I have checked with MS3/Pro (Megasquirt) folks and they say that is no problem. This way each injector fill fire directly at the base of the intake runners in the block...yet...far enough back so air will have some time to mix. Only trying it will tell. That is it for now. Wish us luck. The peak wave is due to hit SF Hospitals about the 28th of the month. I hope Sondra and I make it thought this. She is the consummate professional, 26 or so months from retirement. Lets hope we both make it to it. Best, James PS. One thing I forgot to mention. Even though the Langdon manifolds do not fit all that well with reference to the distance of the flanges to the studs, I stuck my finger down the valve holes in the block and felt around and the runners line up well with the block. I will scribe it from the top to port match them, but once I saw the flanges I thought I was screwed out the money. Turns out not. I purchased them from someone who bought them and sold the car and never used them.
  15. I am resurrecting this thread as I just mocked up for the first time my Langdons Exhaust Manifolds for the 25 inch Desoto Block and my Edmunds intake. I noted that one of the holes was drilled a little off and the holes were "right on" the stud size. I drilled them the next (numbered) size up to give them a little expansion clearance on the studs. The inner side of each manifold was tight against the stud, on one side it would not go on. I checked a stock manifold and they are "dimpled" there for clearance. Then I looked at the opposite side when I put the edmunds on and it is so far away from the stud that a factory washer will not even touch it. His manifolds are also thinner than the Edmunds and as such a washer would site cocked like someone else noted. I was worried that these exhaust manifolds had bad core shift. Since I am using a bare block, I could stick my finger down and feel the block to manifold face. It is not too bad and about just as off as a stock one. I will wait until I get the 265 block ready and then I will make it on that one in case that block is a little off from my test bock. I will then port match them. For the life of me, I don't know why when folks make parts like this they don't give you more meat on things like flanges. You can always grind it off to get what you need. The casting shift on the flanges on both sides with the outer's not even being able to take a stock washer is bad. I will make a set of four special washers to deal with the gap and the thickness issues. I cannot go grip at Tom as I purchased these from someone who had gotten them and never used them. I don't know if they knew the problems and dumped them on me or they never new. I can make them work with a little spit and polish. The mock up, no photos yet, with the edumnd's set up with two carter 1BB bases as air valves and George's linkage is starting to look good. I am not going to drill the Edmunds for the Injector Bugs until I am sure everything else will physically work. I hope everyone is well. With Sondra in and out of work in the ICU every day...we are playing a real world version of Russian Roulette. James.
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