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James_Douglas last won the day on May 20

James_Douglas had the most liked content!


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    Long time classic car guy. I can be hounded directly at JDD (at) 8bells dot commercial.
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    San Francisco
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    San Francisco
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    Planes, Trains, and Automobiles

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  1. Still in wheel hell. Not just normal hell, but the lower depths of hell... All the suggestions in this thread as to shops that could or would make a wheel have come to nothing. Either they do not make 15 inch wheels or they are not interested in making them. I have sent detailed information to "The Wheel Smith" and they could make a wheel, but they are sounding like they do not want to as they are worried about liability. Because my wheel cracked, they are worried that it is a load issue. Fair enough. But I keep telling them it is a combination of the load and a very bad job on the part of Stockton Wheel in their implementation of it. Stockton Wheel left sharp edges on the wheel center flanges that could then "dig into" the wheel outer and cause the cracking. I do think if they had rounded those 90 degree corners and also sanded the edges to "up sweep" a little and then pressed them in and welded it, it would be fine. Over the last few months I have been reading a 100 page book. It was written by the public school system Wichita, Kansas in the late 1940's. It was the book used to teach and test kids to take the Army Navy welding exam so they could work in the aircraft factories in Wichita. Welding a lot of chrome molly tubes in large clusters for aircraft small and large. It is all about stress and welding. It is all about preparation and exactly how to weld and in what direction relative to the metal grain. All about creating welds that do not crack. If one reads over all the items on metal preparation and welding procedure, it is evident that the folks at Stockton Wheel blew it. However, trying to find anyone that will actually weld a new set and follow rigorously the same level of Q&A as could be achieved in 1940 is proving to be a fools errand. I may have to abandon the disc brake set up and put drums back on just to be able to have wheels that will not fail. James
  2. I do not know who did the work. I happen to have a Logan gear cutting lathe, but fine threads are fun to do... Any good general machine shop should be able to cut the threads without any issue. I just happen to like the design as it screws right into the back of the MC and does not need any modifications to anything else. Maybe I will ask my local shop what he would charge me on his big ass CNC to design up the program and run a couple off for me. James
  3. Some years ago I saw a set up where the owner had done something similar to this. What he had done is machined a block of steel about 2 inches square that threaded into the back of the stock master cylinder. On one side of that block it had two threaded holes. He had a small steel plate that bolted to those holes and the two rear factory master cylinder bolts. The steel plate had two studs in it pointing rearward. he mounted a dual master cylinder to the rear of that. The push rod was then shorter, and would have less flex than longer versions. I thought it was a nice design and did not require welding or bolting to the frame. James
  4. Since I have a three speed stick with OD and they did not offer that on 1946 to 1948 Desoto....the bracket that bolts to the trans to hold the passenger side of the band had to be made. (The P & D drums are smaller and their brackets will not work.) The bracket is not perfect. So it makes it hard to get the band to adjust correct. Plus the thickness issues. I get some 80 grit sticky back sand paper. I stick it to the drum, over lapping it in the direction of travel. I have the band sort of loose. I jack up the car and run it with the tires spinning. I pull the hand brake lightly with the lock depressed and "sand" the band to get it to conform. I then vacuum up the dust and set the brake adjustment as per the instruction with a feeler gauge. I then wire lock the nut-spring on the passenger side, again per the manuals, and I am good to go. James
  5. There used to be a company that sold kits to put in a restriction in the rear oil feed of these blocks to make up for the wear at the rear cam to block interface. When that rear "bearing" wears too much oil pressure can be lost. Hence the kit. I like the idea of pressing in a bushing to bring it back to the low end of the spec. Loren, what about an oilite bushing? Good cam cores are more important, I would rather change that bushing on a rebuild... James
  6. I ran a long ram 64 Chrysler 300K convertible hard in high school. I purchased new hardened keys from someplace on someones recommendation. That 413 was 390HP and a lot of torque. I never busted a key. Same basic axle. The only reason I am going to go to a 9 inch ford for the 1947 Desoto is the big desoto uses a larger rearend, 12 bolt ring gear, and I have not been able to find a NOS 4.11 ring and pinion. The 4.3 works but is a little too much in town in second OD. I also want to get a 12 inch drum brake that is self adjusting. A pinion that never leaks is another plus... Currie can make one up but in the end it will be like $4k. James
  7. Have fun. I keep asking the club to have the convention in September so that if we wanted to drive across the USA from California we would not be doing it in the summer heat. They keep insisting that they have to do it in the summer as kids are off school, but the two conventions I have attended you could count the kids with one hand. Enjoy the drive and the convention. I look forward to reading and see the photos of the meet. James
  8. Lucky here in the San Francisco Bay Area that it really does not freeze much. Good old alcohol is a perfect anti-freeze, the only thing is every few months it flashed off. But, one can dump alcohol without the green police getting on your back. The soluble oil is also non-toxic. James
  9. If the trans was from a standard clutch, you need to get a fluid drive input pinion and swap it. Other than the controls, works just fine. I have one in the '48 Desoto Suburban. James
  10. I think this is an interesting subject. One historical thing I noted was that in 1960 the LAPD required that its replacement fleet of cars had to "share oil" with the engine. These were 318 blocks or 383 blocks I think. The only trans that could meet the spec was the Powerflite not the Torqueflite. One thing I have never found out was did that spec mean the engine and trans had oil circulating between then or the LAPD just wanted to stock only one oil... James
  11. This is the stuff I used... https://www.banditshobbies.com/store/p7543/TAMIYA_%2381025%3A_X-25_Clear_GREEN_Acrylic_Model_Paint%2C_23ml_Bottle.html James
  12. I do not run any anti-freeze so that I can dump the water on my driveway here in San Francisco without having the Green Police on my back. I use water wetter and soluble oil and that is it. If I was going to head up into the mountains in Winter, I would just put some alcohol in it. I run a 180F thermostat and it is not pressurized. One can drill and tap the side of the water neck above the thermostat easy enough and put in one of those little tiny moon eyes thermometers. I did that to cross check the dash gauge. As long as the radiator is good, distribution tube is good, the head gasket is good and it is not running lean the the car should not overheat. Since it is not a big deal on a flathead to pull the head, just take it off and put a new gasket on it. While the head is off, take out the block side drain cock and run water via a a section of 3/8 brake line attached to a garden hose and blow water in and around the bottom of the cylinders through the jacket holes in the deck as that is where crap settles. A lot of it will drain out the side of the block. Just make sure to not cause water to bubble up and into the cylinders or pull the pan at the same time and clean it out and leave it off until you are done with the water trick. Then oil down the cylinders to take care of any water and then put the pan back on, then the head. Don't forget the block stop cock! If a power brake unit. Plug it and drive it of the smoke goes away you know that is it. James
  13. The 46-48 Desoto uses a painted color prism at the base of the needle.
  14. If you read the book on the development of Chrysler's engines...the section on the slant six where they talk about the issues with the aluminum vs the iron blocks...there are references to the issues of drilling the blocks. Problems with long drill bits in production. I suspect that the different sizes may have something to due with the need to not have long bits fail in production. Just a thought...it may have nothing to do with engineering and everything to do with production issues. James
  15. If it is a 1953 block, there is a chance that it has the block that was designed for use with the fluid torque drive what shared the oil with the "new" converter. They may have made the change in the block to support that even if they did not drill the back of the block with the hole that fed out of the block. James
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