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James_Douglas last won the day on November 23 2020

James_Douglas had the most liked content!


About James_Douglas

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    Guru, have been a long time contributor

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    I am just a geek who likes old cars. We drive a 1947 Desoto Suburban as our daily driver.
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  • My Project Cars


  • Location
    San Francisco
  • Interests
    Planes, Trains, and Automobiles

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  1. San Francisco. 65 Degrees. Winter. Summer. Fall. Spring. First drive of the year? Taking Sondra to the Hospital for her shift in the ICU. She spent a good part of the day bagging the dead. Happy %*#!@*^ New Year. I will be glad when 2022 comes around. James.
  2. On my '49 I am using the factory spring with the covers. I was able to slip them off, take the center bolt out, clean and pain the springs and put it all back with grease. Seem fine. On my 1947 I had new springs made by Eaton. Eaton tells you very specifically to NOT grease their springs as it will harm the steel. I asked more than once for the science behind how the grease harmed the steel and they never provided any data. I know Chrysler had a patent on a special steel for the springs: "Amola, a fine-grained, alloy steel using in its manufacture, among other things,
  3. I used them in my SU's and worked great...
  4. Over the years I have had problems with the viton seals. I stick with the brass ones. What I do is the following: Drill a steel plate to take the Needle Valve seat. Screw seat into the steel plate which is in a bench vise. Then place the brass needle in it. Take a small hammer and dive it a couple of rear good hits to seat the brass needle and seat. I then take the needle valve and give it a light polish on my polish wheel. Then I put it all in. I have run the same needle and seat for 10 years without any issue in daily driving. I do have a BIG filter in th
  5. At the place out of town I have a lift. My back really likes that. But here in San Francisco I can hardly get the car up in the air before I hit the ceiling. I use my 2 ton Milwaukee floor jack under the front frame or the rear-end and I use stands. If I am going to be doing any work that would rock the car, I also pull out very large first growth Douglas Fir blocks from a BIG beam that came out of a 1922 building here in San Francisco. In addition, I often use my Blackhawk bumper jack as well. Three things would have to fail for me to get seriously hurt. As for call
  6. Lets see... I have been using our 1947 Desoto Suburban as out daily driver for 18 years. In the middle of San Francisco traffic. On the drive to out place 80 miles out of town on the freeways with all the Bay Area traffic. It is mostly stock. I did put disc brakes on the front about 12 years ago. I run a standard master cylinder although it was brass sleeved for longevity. The fluid drive helps a lot on the hills here in town. No riding the clutch at traffic lights on steep hills. One thing. I used adapters and run DOT approved racing AN fitting steel braided brake hose
  7. A chart like the following: http://www.golftechs.us/Reference/viscross.pdf Is what I have on the subject. There is an actual formula to convert ISO to SAE. The ISO to SAE numbers are not exact unless you use the formula. I think that SAE15 is closer to ISO32 than SAE10. If someone wants to run down the formula and do the math, be my guest. All I know is that when I talked with the engineer at Gyrol, he told me to use ISO32 with a lot of anti-foaming agent in it and change it every 7 years. Since they held the Patent on the design and licensed it to Chrysler, that is g
  8. Marc, I am using 104743 ISO32 NOT SAE10. An SAE 10 oil is thinner than ISO 32. If one had a good bearing it in theory would perform better all other things being equal. The BIG issue is that unless one knows the EXACT amounts of anti foaming agent in each oil, then a head to head comparison is worthless. Remember, it is the velocity of the oil in the coupling that transmits the torque. Not the viscosity. Any aeration will lower the torque transmittal. So, unless one knew the levels of anti foaming agents in each oil, it is near impossible to do any comparison at the mar
  9. The two things I complained to Earl about was a lack of the threaded hole for the throttle stud and no heater valve boss. I think his heads would have had a wider appeal if they were "swap and play". I saw one where someone milled the ribs off across the head and made a steel plate that went under the head bolts that had a stud welded to it for the throttle bell crank. James
  10. I sent an email to NW transmission and asked for specifics on the seal material. When ones knows that, then one can say what fluid should or should not be used. If it is one of the series of Viton Series of fluoroelastomers then it is likely that the Mobile Circulating fluid would be fine with it. But, I would check with the seal manufacturer for confirmation. Two things to remember. One is that the fluid needs to be THIN just above what the roller bearing needs for lubrication. The second is that it needs a LOT of anti-foaming agent in it. If the oil foams, it will slo
  11. Marc, I assume you read my long tech note on the subject. James.
  12. I wanted to let everyone know that I have received emails from Northwest Transmission parts in which they state they they are rebuilding Fluid Couplings. Now, for the record, I used them to "rebuild one" in the mid-2000's. What I got back was a unit that got a new set of bushings and a new seal. They did not replace the bearing or open it up. About three or four years later (@2500 miles a year) it failed and started to leak real bad. I stuck in a spare as a temporary measure and it has worked fine for over 10 years. They are telling me that they are now cutting open the
  13. If it were me I would: 1. Drain the fuel tank and make sure it is clean, take out the sender to look in. 2. Blow out the fuel lines and the brake lines. 3. Rebuild, or at lease put in new rubber, into the master cylinder and the wheel cylinders. DO NOT put in new cylinders without inspecting the internal parts carefully. New cylinders have had bad parts in them from reputable vendors. I would replace all the bake line hoses. 4. Drain the transmission and the rearend. Put in a few pints of kerosene and let it sit. 5. Take the radiator out and flush it. Flush the block.
  14. I have owned a 1947 Desoto Suburban since about 2002 and I have never seen anyone advertise parts for the roof rack. In fact, I have never seen parts on ebay as well. You almost have to buy a car to get one as far as I know. Dennis may know of someone, but he specializes in Chrysler Town & Country Woodies. The T&C Sedan as well as the Chrysler Traveler Sedan used a different roof rack than the Desoto Suburban. My rack has oak strips. I know that is not correct is all of the Chrysler cars that used wood racks used Ash as far as I know. If you do find
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