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James_Douglas

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James_Douglas last won the day on January 29 2019

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About James_Douglas

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    Guru, have been a long time contributor

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  • Website URL
    http://www.dacoglu.com/cars.htm
  • Biography
    I am just a geek who likes old cars. We drive a 1947 Desoto Suburban as our daily driver.
  • Occupation
    Technology

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    None

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  • Location
    San Francisco
  • Interests
    Planes, Trains, and Automobiles

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  1. Sam, Just make sure you put a tag on it that says "no longer for aircraft use"...you would not want the man from the local FSDO to see that without it placarded :-)
  2. I have found that such a large "hole" does not seal well over the long term with fuel tank sealant. If I did anything to it, I would drill out the pop rivets and place solid rivets in their place. I have been using 545 loctite on the threads for the screws...since little lead washers are hard to find..and it works great. But, it will not fill a gap the size of a rivet hole. I found that the amount of fuel coming out and vaporizing was enough to warrant a safety issue. If someone filled up a car and parked it in a garage for a week...it amount of vapor would be a nuisance and could be a safety issue. One of my factory units I sent to Atwater Kent for rebuilding and they used pop rivets with gas tank sealer between the two parts. It leaked. I took out the rivets, made a gasket, used fuel gasket sealant and out in solid rivets and then it did not leak. The issue is the resistor died a year or so ago. That is why I purchased a new one thinking I would not have to screw with it. I am pulling it out later today and putting in a factor unit for the time being. Better not to have working sender than a leaking one. James.
  3. Hi All, I installed a new manufacture fuel sender in my Desoto. One of the two wire thrmo types used in Desoto and Chrysler. I got it off of one of the usual suspects on ebay. The problem is that it is leaking. Not at the seal and not at the threads. It is leaking from the two pop rivets that hold the thing together. It leaks a lot after you fill up the tank. In the 1946 to 1950 Desoto's and I assume Chrysler's the filler neck is fairly high above the top of the tank. A gas station pump handle only goes in about 5 inches when you fill it up. So the final fuel level is above the tank top. The pressure is pushing out a fair amount of fuel through the rivet centers. What I want to know is anyone else having this issue? I suspect it is a design issue and not a malfunction. The factory used solid rivets on the their senders... James.
  4. Just use 90W and if need be keep it filled. My 1947 Desoto that I drive every day here in San Francisco has a slow leak and I have a new seal in it! I just stay on top of it. When I check the oils once a month, I check that. People use the grease in the boxes, I personally do not think it is appropriate and does not put a good oil film on the bearings or the gears. Also, go here and read booklet number 28: http://www.imperialclub.com/Repair/Lit/Master/index.htm
  5. Hi All, Has anyone used something other then the 5 inch (measured in the base of the pulley v groove) standard pulley and had it clear the cutout in the front frame or not drop when the engine gets a good bounce? I have one that is 7 inch (OD, probably 6-1/4 at the base) off of my "combine" 265 engine and before I pull the radiator on the '47 Desoto to see if it will clear for the new rebuild...I thought I would ask if anyone has gotten a larger one that would clear...in particular with a Desoto or a Chrysler frame. Thanks all, James.
  6. Thanks Wes, this will do the trick for me. For the price I can carry a couple of spares. The only down side is I assume it is not regulated on the output side. James.
  7. Mr. Douglas,

    I am rebuilding a 1939 Dodge D11 transmission. Would you still have a "synchronizer stop ring spreader spring"? Or know where one could be found. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

    Mike

    1. Show previous comments  2 more
    2. desoto1939

      desoto1939

      James:

       

      You can send me a check in the mail for $23 and that covers the postage and the cutting of the CD.  I ship via the USPO and ship it in the small box. I do this because the box protects the CD from getting bent and or damaged while going thru the regular mail service plus it is also covered by their insurance.

       

      I will  also send a copy of the various other catalogs that I have scanned over my 32 years of collecting information and cross reference catalogs.  Since paper catalogs are now harder to get the only way to preserve the information is to digitize the information and keep it preserved

       

      I have over 50+ catalogs that help me identify the appropriate parts between the years of 1909 upto 1950's

       

      My information is:

       

      Rich Hartung

      20 Driftwood Drive

      Eagleville, PA 19403

      Cell 484-431-8157

      Home 610-630-9188

      Desoto1939@aol.com

       

      I own a 39 Desoto 4 door Sedan 

      IMG_0911.JPG

    3. desoto1939

      desoto1939

      Here is another sie picture of my 39 Desoto.

      IMG_2929.JPG

    4. Hemibear426

      Hemibear426

      Rich,

      I put a check in the mail for the CD today.

      Thanks again,

      Mike 

       

      Your car is beautiful!

  8. I like this PMW solution. I think I will get a couple of Don Coatney's 12 volt blower motors...take my switch apart and jump all the lead to just create and on-off power switch and use the PMW with the pigtail switch to control the motor speed. That should then allow me to use a Power Stream Buck-Boost converters PST-DC/1260-11to run the 6 volt wipers. Everything else will be 12 volt so I have a complete solution. James.
  9. When I put in M79308 for the motor at NAPA it does not show up. What was the application? James.
  10. I have never had a master cylinder fail. I have had a wheel cylinder fail, like I said, it was new one from NAPA. I had a fairly new hose failing...I replaced them all with Russell Racing Steel Braided. In most instances with a single master system, there is a telltale sign that something is wrong. I am comfortable with a single cylinder, but I check the fluid level every week and inspect the underside of the car every quarter. Once every 5 years I replace all the fluid in the system. Once every decade or so I replace all the seals and check the guts. I drive the 1947 in the hills of San Francisco and only that bad new wheel cylinder is let me down. All of the cars my family had as kids had single master cylinders and they never had an issues at 100K or more miles on them. I really do think that the reason the feds went to ordering dual cylinders was that as cars got older and went to second or third owners that may not have properly maintained them and they started to see failures. A properly maintained single system is not unreasonable from a safety perspective. My 1949 has 4 wheel disc brakes, the only major non-stock thing on this car, with a single cylinder and a Midland-Ross remote power brake booster. Car stops TOO good. The rear calipers have the Cad-Eldo rears with the cable operated parking brake. It will slow the car just as good as a failed dual cylinder operating on two wheels. James.
  11. Funny you should say that... I have been reading over Dud Davisson's articles in Sport Aviation on welding. I have not done much welding since High School. I was taught both gas and stick at that time. We are going to the AAA in Iowa this fall to figure out what old aircraft we want to go looking for. When I was in high school I built a Hot Rod '31 Model "A" coupe. One of the things I did was put a Mustang Steering box in it. I had been through a couple of bad professional welders at that point in time doing things I did not feel up to doing. After going through a few welders I tan across a guy that had been one of the army of people that got downsized by the close of the Apollo Program. This man moved into Northern California and started a welding shop. He did welds on the Lunar Lander. He know his profession better than anyone I have met since. The one thing he told me was that welding on forged parts takes a rigorous approach. He cut and shortened the pitman arm for this car. It took 2 hours. After preparing the thing and heating it in a500F oven he would then heat it until red-orange with his torch. He would then make a single pass on one side, then flip it over and make a single pass on the other. Then stop, chip and wire brush both sides, heat it up and make another pass. All this took about an hour and a half. He then put it back into the oven and told to come back in later. He had me have it x-rayed and he looked over the results. Only then would he allow me to put it on the car. I have never to this day seen anyone else go through such a careful process when cutting and welding forged auto parts. I once asked Fatman about dropped spindles and their process. I did not like their answer. For the last few decades I found a man here in San Francisco that was as good a welder as the ex-NASA ( Grumman ) welder. He died a couple of years back and I have not found anyone to replace him. So, I have decided I need to get back to welding myself. I am ordering up a set of equipment both for Gas (hence reading Budd Davisson closely) and MIG. I am hoping the many years of helping and observing both the NASA Welder and my friend will come in handy. Both of them told me that prep and procedure was the name of the game and the actual welding is just practice, practice, practice. James.
  12. I do really like what Don did. I may or may not end up doing something very close. I am also looking into the electric assist. The size of the Desoto Suburban requires a fairly large electric motor. Most of the usual suspects are just too small. I did find a company that has a motor that is fairly heavy duty. They are EPAS Performance. I have talked with them and although they strongly recommend that the motor be placed under the dash, it can be placed in the engine compartment in something like a MOPAR with a flathead. In my case there is more than enough room between the firewall and the steering box to place it there. They also can sell their 60 AMP unit with a build in fan for the motor. Since the manifolds are all on the passenger side, I am not worried about the heat. In the case of the Suburban Sedan, it uses a much larger steering box than the rest of the cars and the ratio is also better so any strain on the electric motor will not be as great. Since I will be converting the car to 12volts and using a 100 to 200 AMP alternator, power will not be an issue. James.
  13. I made the one for the 1949, I ended up not using it as it was 26 inches long and the dual cylinders had just more flex than I liked, was made from solid steel rod I got from Aircraft Spruce with a USA mill certificate. We machines the ends for heim joints. Could life up the car with it. I am not a fan of welding such things unless the welder is certified for that material and even then I would send it out for a x-ray to look for micro cracks. I have long been critical of welding on things that are in the brake system or the steering system that are not done "by the book" so to speak. Don't get me started on people who cut and weld spindles... James.
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