Tom Skinner

Dear DavidMacK, MkeMaker was right on all counts on the trunk lock, picking the lock, keying it, inserting new key and turning the cylinder to push release pin, not forcing the pin etc. Now for the door Locks. Either remove your ignition switch and build a key from it, or get some special hardened drill bits and remove a door cylinder to get a new key made to fit them. It will/should fit your doors as well. Remember no forcing anything. Slow and steady wins the race. In this case a couple of breaks/as in break frre oil and rests, and other cases, as in beer may be in order as well. Tom

Christopher, I bought my second 48 Chrysler Royal in February at the beach in NC. I had to drive it home 300 miles to Charlotte because it ran, I love to drive em and Freight was $800 and would take a month or more to get, and I didn't want the guy (Seller) backing out so I drove it about 250 miles and a funky Whiring Humzzy sound developed when I came to a rest stop along the Interstate. The Water Pump I thought, I was right I got home and first thing bought a water pump at NAPA for $79, put er in no more Whirzzzezums. Try adding some oil in pecocks at the generator front and back don't overdue it. Its probably something simple don't overeact and start rebuilding engines. Breathe. It vill be alright. Tom

Jim, Get the plugs outa that baby and run a compression test. If its not right break er down and fix her. To run it like that is to risk further engine damage if something is not right inside, like pistons, rings, bearings, or ETC. Good luck! Tom

ksujames, I found a place that reproduces Heat Shields. Paul Taylor Industries P.O. Box 618 Arroyo Grande, CA. 93421 Excellent Original Heat Shield Reproduction Excellent Service, mine came today. The Kit was $35 with $7 S&H. $42 was my total for a Shield for my 1948 Chrysler Royal (C-38) If I were you I would Write this Dude and get one. Tom Skinner

Roberts Auto Parts sells one. Remember to specify a Hose 3 feet Long. That will get you through the Firewall and down to the Frame Area, where you need it to be. Tom

Thanks for the information! I realized the numbers on the block were what I needed after I hung up the phone with the seller of this engine, however, I am really just needing the intake, and exhaust manifolds, not the whole motor although if I drive 10 hours in my pick up truck to buy it the whole things comming home. Tom

Dear Forum Members, Can anyone tell me if the numbers on the head of a Spitfire 6 Cylinder Engine are a diagnostic as to what year the engine is? Or if it is a 250.6 cu. in., or otherwise, say a 230 cu. in., ETC. The Numbers on the Head of the Motor are 1313826-2 near Cylinder #2, with nomenclature of NI near the rear of the engine. If this Motor is a 1948, 1949, ETC. Motor. One more question. Are 1949 Spitfire Sixes interchangable with 1948 Spitfire Sixes? Tom Skinner PS. I know of a Vin Number List that Identifies Years and Models of Chryslers, but I do not know if engine numbers have such a list.

Dear Fred, I am not sure about more than one heater, I have seen dual heaters (one Big one), with heater duct to the drivers side. I'm sure its been done though. By the way are you going to use your Cowl gear sprocket armature that has a stop on it coming out of the side (that is to say) up to the cowl to the srocket (the armature with the angled stop on it) mine is bent badly and I'm looking for a replacement. If not fine, however, if you don't need that particular bracket/armature, I would be very interested it purchasing it from you. Tom Skinner (704) 400-1284