Tom Skinner

I am looking at my Light bulb bin. GE51 Bulbs behind the dash is what I use on a 1948 Chrysler Royal Sedan

Little Mazda 50 or 51 Bulbs

Use lots of soapy water to coax glass/rubber back into place with a string to bring rubber back over the weld. I actually used 2 - 2" X 4"'s to help me with my front windshield. I think a helper is better though - for the beers afterwards. L.O.L.

By the way I believe I have read something over the years in Car Magazines that: Albert Champion had to change the name of his Spark Plug Company from Champion to AC (for some kind of legal issue) so Champions and AC plugs are really the same plug. AC standing for Albert Champion. True or not True I cannot say for sure.

OK, here goes. For 10 -12 years I have silently read about everyone bashing Champion Spark Plugs on here. I have used them on my 1948 Chrysler Royals since 1974 without any starting or running issues. Never had one fail. Never had bad starts, slow starts, unless I neeeded to tweak my Points or Timing (which is probably the real culprit) or charge my battery if my Chrysler sat a month in the dead of Winter and I couldn't take it out every week because of snow or ice. So that being said Champions in my humble opinion are as good as any spark plug out there. I have had AC, Bosch, NGK in my Pontiacs, Chevy's, and Toyotas, and I really can't see any difference at all. As a matter of fact I found the Bosch Plugs ran too hot and didn't seem to do their job if any plug bashing must commence I personally would not buy a Bosch Plug again, however, Champions will always go in my Mopars RJ12C or 592 (Same Plug) at 35 Thousands of an Inch Gap. Running 6 Degrees Advanced on my Timing and always running Ethanol Free Gasoline - never the Cornalhol/Ethanol Gasoline.

Use your Service Manual. It should have a section in there for just this operation. I did and used a couple of helpers, I call Petey and Henry (a couple of 2" X 4"s') to hold the Front windshield in place while I pulled the String to make the Rubber meet the Weld for the front glass, I did the rear window with the help of my wife (Patti). 20 minutes each. You won't break nothing just go slow. I used the Steel Rubber products and lots of soapy water to make it slip right into place. easy peasy. I did my neighbors 1970 BMW also front and back windows in about 30 minutes. That included us drinking a beer to celebrate. By the way Glass is in the rubber - push in from interior for both front and rear glass pull strings from outside while applying moderate pressure from the inside it will pop right into place. Breaking the old glass to get it out is not sensible and will make a big mess in addition to possibly cutting yourself. This should all be outlined in your service manual. Back window with Chrome strip goes in last. Front window with Chrome strip never gets removed. Tom

Oldneon, Just for the record. Most young people today do not care for our old buses. They want fast and new. Something to plug into. The 1940's Mopars have little value except to their loving owners. Most go for 8-16K even finished right now in this economy. Trying to turn your "Business Coupe" into something special isn't necessarily going to work. But as they say - "Go for it big guy". Good Luck. Tom

The 6 Volt 3 Prog Relay came today in the Mail. The H. B. S. Relay I had on Order through Ebay. An Echlin. I hooked it up again and prestodigitorium my horn works fine again. I don't know how, I just know it works. As the say in Japan in the House of Delight - A Velly velly happy Ending. L.O.L. Echlin Parts are U.S. Made Tom

Dodgeb4ya, Thank you for the schematic. I have H and IGN right, I will look into the B and S later after work today. Thank you. I think I need to have a 20 AMP Fuse to B also then it will be sorted out. Thanks again! Tom

Dennis, I am also looking into a 20 AMP Fuse to the B on the Voltage Regulator. Tom

Gents, I used a jumper from B to H and the Horn sounded indicating a bad Horn Switch. NOT SO IT IS BRAND NEW Its looking like I should have to add the 3 Prong Relay - its coming in the mail. Maybe some day at a car show some one more intelligent than me can show me otherwise. Thank you for your help! Tom

OK I used a jumper from Ground to S Horn doesn't sound. The Horn Button is not defective

My Wires are all new as Rhode Island Wire. So Frayed Wires are not the case. Picture to follow

I should also add my 4 Prong Horn Switch has no H,S,B, or Ign markings on it. It does have the HRL4101 on it though

OK, So I had my S and H wire opposite on the Relay picture. None the less, I tried every conceivable way once I identified my H and IGN posts on my 4 prong Horn Switch , and the B Wire wouldn't go to the B Post without sparks flying. Would it go on the IGN Post? Anyhow still not able to figure this out. I knew going in I wasn't an electrician. L.O.L.

10-4, I will try tonight after work and report back

Plymouthyadams, I can't explain it. Can anyone else?

Knuckle, I have been hacked? I never made that post 22 hours ago.

By the way, My horn blew even when ignition was turned off

OK here goes, I wish I knew what to do but this is how it is/was wired and worked for years on my 1948 Chrysler Royal with Fluid Drive. If I could I would do away with the 3 prong relay. Also I was messing with the horn Ring at the wheel when it fissled/burnt up the 3 prong relay

Dodgeb4ya, Yes exactly however I have another unit next to this Box you show (H.S.B. IGN.) which is a S.B.H. another Relay maybe I am wired wrong because my H Wire is going up my Wheel Shaft not my S wire. I will take a picture of it and post it later in the day when I get home from work. Thanks Tom

Look,

HR 104 looks correct. I am sure I did not wire it wrong. The problem is I bought a (supposed) 6 volt Relay with a 6 Volt Sticker over a 12 Volt Stamp in the Relay from Dennis Carpenter's Ford Place in Concord NC. Probably a HR 101. It burnt up because it wasn't really 6 Volt. Everything is going to be fine when my new Relay comes in - I hope - otherwise I will have a 20 A Fuse in the S Line to prevent any further trouble. Thank you all for the concerns. I will post back once I install the correct Relay with a 20A Fuse. Tom

Rich, Thank you Sir! Tom

Gents, I am pretty sure my Horn Ring somehow shorted out my Horn Relay. My Horn Relay smoked and burnt up. I disconnected it in time. Smoke, no fire. I have the 4 prong switch which is in turn attached to a 3 prong relay. With the S, B, H. Letters on it. The S goes to the 4 Prong Switch, the B goes to the Battery Terminal B on the Voltage Regulator, and the H wire goes straight up the Steering Wheel Shaft to the Horn Ring. I have ordered a new Relay on ebay, it is coming next week in the mail. Now for the question: Can one hook up a fuse to the H Wire, so that in the event the Horn Ring at the Steering Wheel Base Shorts out the Fuse will blow without causing damage to the Relay Switch? If so what size fuse would you use? 10, 15, etc.? Thank you for any help. Tom