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Earl Gray

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About Earl Gray

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    DC
  • My Project Cars
    1951 Dodge Coronet (D-42)

Converted

  • Location
    DC
  • Interests
    My car, bushcraft, building

Contact Methods

  • Occupation
    U.S. Army: 1998 - present

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  1. Removed resistor on the black wire. No change.
  2. @50mech, Great info! This is what I needed! Thank you!
  3. @greg g, Though it was frustrating at times, looking back, it makes sense how it wasn't working. You're absolutely right. These transmissions work well and are simple. The transmission issues were operator error. I'm just not too sure if the ballast resistor on the black wire is doing much. My multi-meter didn't read any change. My thinking was to add the ballast resistor to protect the transmission components from 12v when they were meant for 6v. Overthinking or underthinking? I'm going to test: 1. Both black and green with their own ballast resistors. 2. Both without the ballast resistors ...and provide an update. I'm sure someone else out that's more knowledgeable and experienced then me can jump in about the placement and effectiveness of how it's currently wired.
  4. thrashingcows, Thank you! I've been looking through your photos. Very helpful! Thanks for taking the time to post them and thereby, help others!
  5. What are you using for a replacement horn relay when you can't find OEM/NOS?
  6. Very helpful. Thank you! I disconnected the battery many times while trying to get the wiring right (cross-referenced post below) that it most likely reset it then. Good to know a solid solution. Thanks again!
  7. Do you have a gyromatic D-42 converted 12v with productive information or are you just the forum police?
  8. You didn't seem to have an issue finding both.
  9. Final analysis and solution: For a converted 12v D-42 with a Gyromatic, the black wire needs to be connected to the negative ignition coil post and the green needs to be connected to the positive ignition coil post. The black wire goes to the Interrupter Switch. The green wire goes to the governor. When I wired according to the service manual (black to positive and green to negative) it killed the coil. When I rewired it (switching black/green as stated above), everything worked. When black and green were wired wrong, it grounded out the blue interrupter switch, which when done as a resistor test, kills the engine (see photos and alligator black test wire alligator clipped blue terminal to block ground). Additionally, wiring it wrong made the transmission act like the handbrake was engaged when it wasn't. When this happened, I returned the wiring to base line (only black on negative post and green was hanging free) to get the transmission "unstuck." The "stuck" acting transmission probably happened by the overload to the governor, since the grounded blue only kills the engine/ prevents it from starting. I'm not an expeat but I've learned along the way and it's running well. If you have experience with this, please drop a comment.
  10. Update: After hours of different tests and configurations, here's what I have. I switched the black and green wires coming from the ignition coil and added a resistor. Black is on the negative coil post and green is on positive coil post. Works great, shifts well, doesn't stall, and the kickdown works great too. I was hoping to find someone with a D-42 with a 12v system and gyromatic to see how they have theirs running in the proper configuration. Hope this helps the next person. If there's any issue with this current configuration, I'll give an update.
  11. I appreciate your feedback and suggestion.
  12. '51 Coronet (12v) won't move forward. It acts like the handbrake is engaged when it's not. Is there anything electrical that makes the transmission act like this?
  13. UPDATE: I switched the wires coming from the carb to the coils to black on negative coil post and green on positive coil post. Engine starts and column shifter switches between gears but the transmission acts like the hand brake is still on. Yes, the actual hand brake is disengaged.
  14. You're on to something. I disconnected the black and green wires that go to the circuit breaker/resistor unit and it started. It's running right now. I'm parked outside my house and typing this as it runs. Now what? I'm going to run a resistor from the coil to the carb. I'm still not sure which wire going to which post. Before the issue...Black was connected to the negative post and the green was hanging free, no connected. I connected them according to the service manual and had the issue. I disconnected them both and the car started. Since it's been converted to 12v, it's no longer a positive ground, so the negative post now connects to the distributor. That being said, does the black and green wires switch now too, i.e., black now needs to be connected to the negative post and green to the positive?
  15. Maybe. but what about the black and green wires? Do the black and green wires switch posts too? If so, how does this affect anti-stall, kick-down, and other components for the carb and gyromatic?
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