Tom Skinner

Kanter in Booten New Jersey sell them too.

Chrysler's also 46-48

Also I think you just spin the whole Long Rod once the TR End Bolts are loose not one side at a time. Go talk to a Front End Guy they are friendly Chaps when you catch them early on a Saturday Morning at opening. Bring a box of Dohnuts L.O.L.

Sounds like you got the toe in toe out close to correct. What about Camber? I did my tie Rods got it close (Camber with a 2' Level and Toe in and Toe out) and went to my nearest Good Year. An older Mechanic put it on the rack with my Camber Wrench and Finished up right with a Computer Print Out Sheet and all. I wasn't even close. Now it rides like a new Cadillac. Only $89. The only thing I have ever let another mechanic do on any of my cars was the front end alignments - worth every single penny

Just mash the clutch pedal down - it should drop right in

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Woodrow, Do what you wish. The Clear Sealant cleans up easier than the black sealant with the 3M Cleaner. I know because I have done it both ways on many cars. Mr Doctor would have you breaking your glass out and needing 3 helpers along the way. I used 2 - 2" X 4" 's jutting off my front seat to do my front windshield (remember Petie and Henry)? by myself. Didn't break anything and found and repaired the small leaks afterward with 3M Clear Sealer. Good Luck. Tom

Congratulations! Now test it with a hose. No leaks and then your'e done. The Clear 3M Sealer can be used by pulling the rubber back gently with a plastic scraper - where if you suspect any leaks insert some Clear Sealer. I also thought I was done. and the hose of water proved me wrong. Once I used the Clear 3 M Sealer (Sparingly) I cleaned up the excess later with the 3M Cleaner. Then I was done. I hope you do not have any leaks. If so try my method above. My front and back windows had leaks in the lower corners - slow ones but non - the less. No more leaks after using the sealer.

Saiers, Ebay 1946 1947 1948 PLYMOUTH FRONT FLOOR MAT MOPAR RUBBER PLIABLE SPECIAL DELUXE P15. Mopar Pro is selling for $589. There is another from the same seller Listed as 1848 Chrysler Mat for $399. These are the only ones I have seen on ebay in over a year of searching. Opportunity knocks! Tom

Woodrow, The Service Manuals are really quite complete with instructions, also when you purchase your rubber ask what sealer or cleaner to use. They will sell you the proper stuff. When I bought my Rubber Seal for my back window (before I bought my front rubber for my windshield) at Steele Rubber the Counter person never mentioned the Sealer of Cleaner. I had to go back (I live about a 40 minute ride from there) and purchase the additional supplies $25 More. It would sure be nice if Sales Persons would think to ask customers if they had the other things to use to do the job instead of just existing at a Sales Counter. I remember back in the day if you went into a shop to buy a new leather belt, and went to pay with a worn looking wallet the Salesmen (Yes I am not PC) would ask you if you would also like to look at some new wallets. Now that was Salesmanship at its best. There are just warm bodies at most store counters today. I used Clear 3M Sealer and 3M Cleaner. Good Luck you won't break the Glass unless your really trying to. Tom

Bill Hirsch, 390 Littleton Avenue., Newark NJ 07103 Phone: 973-642-2404. Ask for Frank he will send you samples, or go on line. Bill passed away recently. They supply Packard stuff, however, the Hogs Hair Carpet is also available. The rubber Mats come on Ebay from time to time but are usually the pricing is pretty doggonned proud for the Mats. Carpet Sets made to exact fits on Ebay is also available from at Newark Auto Products in East Orange New Jersey 973-677-9935 also for about $140 - $180 the set Tom

I am looking at my Light bulb bin. GE51 Bulbs behind the dash is what I use on a 1948 Chrysler Royal Sedan

Little Mazda 50 or 51 Bulbs

Use lots of soapy water to coax glass/rubber back into place with a string to bring rubber back over the weld. I actually used 2 - 2" X 4"'s to help me with my front windshield. I think a helper is better though - for the beers afterwards. L.O.L.

By the way I believe I have read something over the years in Car Magazines that: Albert Champion had to change the name of his Spark Plug Company from Champion to AC (for some kind of legal issue) so Champions and AC plugs are really the same plug. AC standing for Albert Champion. True or not True I cannot say for sure.

OK, here goes. For 10 -12 years I have silently read about everyone bashing Champion Spark Plugs on here. I have used them on my 1948 Chrysler Royals since 1974 without any starting or running issues. Never had one fail. Never had bad starts, slow starts, unless I neeeded to tweak my Points or Timing (which is probably the real culprit) or charge my battery if my Chrysler sat a month in the dead of Winter and I couldn't take it out every week because of snow or ice. So that being said Champions in my humble opinion are as good as any spark plug out there. I have had AC, Bosch, NGK in my Pontiacs, Chevy's, and Toyotas, and I really can't see any difference at all. As a matter of fact I found the Bosch Plugs ran too hot and didn't seem to do their job if any plug bashing must commence I personally would not buy a Bosch Plug again, however, Champions will always go in my Mopars RJ12C or 592 (Same Plug) at 35 Thousands of an Inch Gap. Running 6 Degrees Advanced on my Timing and always running Ethanol Free Gasoline - never the Cornalhol/Ethanol Gasoline.

Use your Service Manual. It should have a section in there for just this operation. I did and used a couple of helpers, I call Petey and Henry (a couple of 2" X 4"s') to hold the Front windshield in place while I pulled the String to make the Rubber meet the Weld for the front glass, I did the rear window with the help of my wife (Patti). 20 minutes each. You won't break nothing just go slow. I used the Steel Rubber products and lots of soapy water to make it slip right into place. easy peasy. I did my neighbors 1970 BMW also front and back windows in about 30 minutes. That included us drinking a beer to celebrate. By the way Glass is in the rubber - push in from interior for both front and rear glass pull strings from outside while applying moderate pressure from the inside it will pop right into place. Breaking the old glass to get it out is not sensible and will make a big mess in addition to possibly cutting yourself. This should all be outlined in your service manual. Back window with Chrome strip goes in last. Front window with Chrome strip never gets removed. Tom

Oldneon, Just for the record. Most young people today do not care for our old buses. They want fast and new. Something to plug into. The 1940's Mopars have little value except to their loving owners. Most go for 8-16K even finished right now in this economy. Trying to turn your "Business Coupe" into something special isn't necessarily going to work. But as they say - "Go for it big guy". Good Luck. Tom

The 6 Volt 3 Prog Relay came today in the Mail. The H. B. S. Relay I had on Order through Ebay. An Echlin. I hooked it up again and prestodigitorium my horn works fine again. I don't know how, I just know it works. As the say in Japan in the House of Delight - A Velly velly happy Ending. L.O.L. Echlin Parts are U.S. Made Tom

Dodgeb4ya, Thank you for the schematic. I have H and IGN right, I will look into the B and S later after work today. Thank you. I think I need to have a 20 AMP Fuse to B also then it will be sorted out. Thanks again! Tom

Dennis, I am also looking into a 20 AMP Fuse to the B on the Voltage Regulator. Tom

Gents, I used a jumper from B to H and the Horn sounded indicating a bad Horn Switch. NOT SO IT IS BRAND NEW Its looking like I should have to add the 3 Prong Relay - its coming in the mail. Maybe some day at a car show some one more intelligent than me can show me otherwise. Thank you for your help! Tom

OK I used a jumper from Ground to S Horn doesn't sound. The Horn Button is not defective

My Wires are all new as Rhode Island Wire. So Frayed Wires are not the case. Picture to follow