Tom Skinner

Get Betsy a Flame Thrower Starter Coil. Worth every Penny. Static Time her, then Dynamic Time Her. Bang. She will start like a Gun Shot every time

Absolutely! If you lived closer I would come visit you, and make you a better offer than the imbecile that insulted you with his low offer. If nothing else List it on ebay! You are sure to do much better. If I wasn't 62 I would buy it, but alas working on these old buses is becoming harder and harder the younger I get. Well, put another way it's better to get old than to be cold. L.O.L. Good Luck in whatever you do with it. You sure had the pleasure of owning one of the finest Windsors I have ever read about. I still have the magazine article on it and remember reading it some nights before bed, thinking, if ever, I could have a chance to own such an original Chrysler as that - Imagine! I am sure it is our imaginations that keep us going some cold winter nights with these old buses, as much fun as they are to work on. It has so much provenance and presence. That car is Tops.

Is this the 1942 featured in the magazine article shown above? I believe it was a Special Interests Auto Magazine March-April 1999 issue? This car should go for more like 19 - 20K for that reason alone. Tom

Advix, Damned nice 1941 if I must say so myself! Now for the rest of M.H.O. I have noticed that the Chrysler Cars do not seem to bring the big bucks. For the last 45 years I have owned a few. What perplexes me most is how people will pay - say 50K to 100K for a 55,56, or 57 Chevy, that are ubiquitous (everywhere) but only want to pay 12K to 16K for our wonderful Chrysler's. Yes, I realize one must be a mechanic to own one of our cars. However, they are rarer than any of the afor - mentioned Cheby Bathtubs. A low mileage nice car like yours should garner 19K to 20K or so, not what somebody that wants to flip it wants to pay such as 10K - 14K. The other problem that has developed is namely young people do not want older vehicles anymore. So, I have spoken my piece, Thank you for listening, get all you can out of her, because you are going to miss her some fine day while looking back. Good Luck. Tom

I had to rebuild mine three times before it was right also. It turnred out to be a ton of crud back up and in the back of the carb where the piston is controled by the passing button when you floor it. Once I cleaned all that out and replaced the Dash Pot Piston with a new one (As well as every thing that comes with the NAPA Kit it finally ran smooth. I don't rightfully know what to tell you but try try again?

Dump the gas in the tank. Fill Fresh with ethanol free fuel. Run it every day. These old Chrysler Cars do better while used - not sitting for long stretches. Check to see if your flexible fuel line is mushy, mabye its eat up from all the crap gas (ethanol). I don't run crap gas in any of my vehicles. Never any trouble with cleaning Carburators, Fuel Injectors, etc., because nothing in the Ethanol free gas to crap things up.

I'll stand down on this subject, because I am not a competent electrician by any means, however, two fellows in my Carolina Chrysler Club did theirs the way I described because of the reason I have given. I also did mine the way I have described. Don Coatney could probably clarify what if anything could be done to add the brake light feature at the tail lights of Plymouth's etc. Like I said, I questioned the two senior gentlemen at my Club as to how they did theirs at a Car Show going over both methods with them verbally for some time. I believe 1948 is different than 1949 wiring from the factory. I wanted to use the method of the two pole sockets, but was told the way to do it was the way they/I did it. By the way shortly afterward I blew a brake light switch. It was however an original @69 years old, so I replaced it and have had 3 brake lights with no problems since. I guess either way, I know I feel safer going down the road with 3 brake lights lighting when I hit the brakes.

Right up through 1948 Chrysler's were not wired to just just upgrade the wiring sockets to produce brake lights at the tail lights. The directionals and tail lights were wired as a separate system. The brake light separate. study your wiring schematics you will see what I mean. One must splice/pigtial into the brake light wire and supply two more 6 volt sockets to the tail light housings. 1949 may have changed that, to that I cannot say, however, anything prior to that must be accomplished as I have described. I kind of remember this subject coming up in the past, and 1949 might be the year the wiring changed.

I have a 1948 Chrysler Royal. The only Brake Light was the center Light. I spliced the Center wire/Brake Light Wire out to the Tail Light housings where I installed new sockets. Now I have all three light locations. I don't know if 1949 is different. Be careful cutting new socket holes near your directional holes in your fender so everything fits in the tail Light housings.

Very Nice Windsor!

I thought (If a 250.6 cu. in. Engine) Timing should be 2 Degrees B.T.D.C. Advanced somewhat for 87 Octane - about a 6 Degrees B.T.D.C. would be about right.

Rhode Island sends Instructions that are idiot proof - no mistakes - top quality.

Who can recommend a Plastic Repro place for making Glove box Door covers. I have an extra to submit to them

Vintage Power Wagon has them for about $17.50 Make one Cheaper yourself, it is after all possible. If you continue to pay some one else to do all your work you most certainly be upside down (financially) with your car as it relates to the actual value of your car. V.P.W. Phone is: (888) 695-0578 page #22 of their 2016 Catalog Tom

Just Remove the Radiator. Turn it upside down in the yard. Put a Water Hose in the bottom and wash it out. You will get a cup of crud out of the top where you usually fill it. It will all come out be patient, and it will probably be fine. Buying and spending doesn't have to be the first solution

Should just pull out by hand

Awww, mix a Margarita or two. The pain goes away and your young again. Just don't drive after 2 or 3 or 4. L.O.L. Don’t drive after 4? I would have to drive, after 4 I can’t walk!!! Mike, I drive after 4 - all the way to the bedroom. L.O.L. Tom

insane radio, Highly unlikely Spring Shackles would cause a Clutch Judder/Chatter. I too thought of everything under the sun to deny the Clutch Judder problem. Question does it Chatter/Judder at lower Speeds say 15 m.p.h. and then return again in the 30 - 35 m.p.h. range? Take your Cover off beneath the Clutch and examine the Clutch Plate for wear. Good Luck, I hope you find it was just your Shackles, however, that may not be the case. Tom

Awww, mix a Margarita or two. The pain goes away and your young again. Just don't drive after 2 or 3 or 4. L.O.L.

There are oil holes at the jamb. Administer some 3 in 1 oil in every one you can find liberally. It should loosen things up a bit

Another way is to measure the Interior with a Cloth Measuring Tape. Much like the ones used by sewers. Remember to account for the seat backs, door panels, armrests, etc. Remember its all looked at as Square Yards by them.

Donald, They do sell these on ebay at rare times - usually around once every three years or so one will be listed on ebay so one can buy one. I have only seen 3 listed in the last 10 years though, and snagged one for about $20. Getting harder to find these switches. Tom

Kiethb7, Maybe the guy had a chebby 350 under the hood. If you look closely at the Picture and Video, he has the wrong Hub Caps on it. The Hood Ornament has something wingy on top of it - also incorrect. It has been my experience at shows that guys that keep their Hoods down at shows are either a little ashamed at the mess that is under that Hood, or have never actually worked on it and are ignorant of what is under the Hood, because they always paid someone else to work on it. Or maybe he was just tired or too stoned to bother. I see old hippies in the background of the picture. Ha Ha. Tom

Rich, When you say the old original AF, do you mean the stuff in the white plastic gallon bottles? Please advise as to which container, or what title you are reffering to. Thank you. Tom

A good try would be maybe ebay I have bought tubes for my Philco Radios on ebay. Type in your part number under Philco Tube Radio. You might also try buying a cheap 9 Tube Philco Radio on ebay and using the vibrator out of it.