Tom Skinner

My Grandpa would have said "that's the boughten up they got" in other words terrible parenting. They had crappy parents.

Easy. I keep my Windows up and Doors locked at car Shows. Yes people today tend to have no respect for other people's Cars. Usually they probably think because they paid to get in a car show they have bought the rights to what ever they damned well please to do.

Easy. I keep my Windows up and Doors locked at car Shows. Yes people today tend to have no respect for other people's Cars. Usually they probably think because they paid to get in a car show they have bought the rights to what ever they damned well please to do.

Jerry and Dodgeb4ya have it right. Stock up on Autolite parts on ebay. They cost a little more, but worth it. I personally have had very good luck with Andy Bernbaum as well. Vintage Power Wagons as well. I still try to buy the NOS off of ebay though, never any worrying with those parts

As for Black Soot. Take that car out for a real ride on the highway. Blow the stink off of it as my Grandpa would say. No more soot

Rhode Island Wire. Great People Great Pricing and Support

JohnD400, Everyone's advise just North of this post is spot on. Condenser too (Cheap way to check stuff). Let us know what happened? Tom

Merry Christmas everybody!

Gary, Before you ordered your sender, did you look to see whether you had a one or two wire sender on your gas tank? I only ask, because some (nice intended, I'm sure, young salesperson) wouldn't necessarily know what one you needed if you hit him over the head with one. I am always having to keep younger auto sales persons on their toes because they have no idea what parts actually fit on our old cars. Have you the situation sorted yet? Her'e's wishing the best of luck on that, I feel certain they will probably refund you. Tom

Plymouthy Adams, Correctomundo, Cotter Pin must go in Tom

MarkB2PW, Take one or both of the rear wheels off (Floor jack it up by the pumpkin). Observe the inner wheel wells at the top closest to the body. Are there swirl marks from the tires rubbing? When you did your rear brakes did you torque the drum back on at say 142FT LBS? If its loose may be the problem. My book states that as a minimum. (Page 311. 1942 - 1948) Shop Manual. Tom

That is the Block Pet Cock If and when you want to Drain the Block open it (Lefty Loosy Righty Tighty)

To be more specific - a flattened steel wheel chock.

Get Betsy a Flame Thrower Starter Coil. Worth every Penny. Static Time her, then Dynamic Time Her. Bang. She will start like a Gun Shot every time

Absolutely! If you lived closer I would come visit you, and make you a better offer than the imbecile that insulted you with his low offer. If nothing else List it on ebay! You are sure to do much better. If I wasn't 62 I would buy it, but alas working on these old buses is becoming harder and harder the younger I get. Well, put another way it's better to get old than to be cold. L.O.L. Good Luck in whatever you do with it. You sure had the pleasure of owning one of the finest Windsors I have ever read about. I still have the magazine article on it and remember reading it some nights before bed, thinking, if ever, I could have a chance to own such an original Chrysler as that - Imagine! I am sure it is our imaginations that keep us going some cold winter nights with these old buses, as much fun as they are to work on. It has so much provenance and presence. That car is Tops.

Is this the 1942 featured in the magazine article shown above? I believe it was a Special Interests Auto Magazine March-April 1999 issue? This car should go for more like 19 - 20K for that reason alone. Tom

Advix, Damned nice 1941 if I must say so myself! Now for the rest of M.H.O. I have noticed that the Chrysler Cars do not seem to bring the big bucks. For the last 45 years I have owned a few. What perplexes me most is how people will pay - say 50K to 100K for a 55,56, or 57 Chevy, that are ubiquitous (everywhere) but only want to pay 12K to 16K for our wonderful Chrysler's. Yes, I realize one must be a mechanic to own one of our cars. However, they are rarer than any of the afor - mentioned Cheby Bathtubs. A low mileage nice car like yours should garner 19K to 20K or so, not what somebody that wants to flip it wants to pay such as 10K - 14K. The other problem that has developed is namely young people do not want older vehicles anymore. So, I have spoken my piece, Thank you for listening, get all you can out of her, because you are going to miss her some fine day while looking back. Good Luck. Tom

I had to rebuild mine three times before it was right also. It turnred out to be a ton of crud back up and in the back of the carb where the piston is controled by the passing button when you floor it. Once I cleaned all that out and replaced the Dash Pot Piston with a new one (As well as every thing that comes with the NAPA Kit it finally ran smooth. I don't rightfully know what to tell you but try try again?

Dump the gas in the tank. Fill Fresh with ethanol free fuel. Run it every day. These old Chrysler Cars do better while used - not sitting for long stretches. Check to see if your flexible fuel line is mushy, mabye its eat up from all the crap gas (ethanol). I don't run crap gas in any of my vehicles. Never any trouble with cleaning Carburators, Fuel Injectors, etc., because nothing in the Ethanol free gas to crap things up.

I'll stand down on this subject, because I am not a competent electrician by any means, however, two fellows in my Carolina Chrysler Club did theirs the way I described because of the reason I have given. I also did mine the way I have described. Don Coatney could probably clarify what if anything could be done to add the brake light feature at the tail lights of Plymouth's etc. Like I said, I questioned the two senior gentlemen at my Club as to how they did theirs at a Car Show going over both methods with them verbally for some time. I believe 1948 is different than 1949 wiring from the factory. I wanted to use the method of the two pole sockets, but was told the way to do it was the way they/I did it. By the way shortly afterward I blew a brake light switch. It was however an original @69 years old, so I replaced it and have had 3 brake lights with no problems since. I guess either way, I know I feel safer going down the road with 3 brake lights lighting when I hit the brakes.

Right up through 1948 Chrysler's were not wired to just just upgrade the wiring sockets to produce brake lights at the tail lights. The directionals and tail lights were wired as a separate system. The brake light separate. study your wiring schematics you will see what I mean. One must splice/pigtial into the brake light wire and supply two more 6 volt sockets to the tail light housings. 1949 may have changed that, to that I cannot say, however, anything prior to that must be accomplished as I have described. I kind of remember this subject coming up in the past, and 1949 might be the year the wiring changed.

I have a 1948 Chrysler Royal. The only Brake Light was the center Light. I spliced the Center wire/Brake Light Wire out to the Tail Light housings where I installed new sockets. Now I have all three light locations. I don't know if 1949 is different. Be careful cutting new socket holes near your directional holes in your fender so everything fits in the tail Light housings.

Very Nice Windsor!

I thought (If a 250.6 cu. in. Engine) Timing should be 2 Degrees B.T.D.C. Advanced somewhat for 87 Octane - about a 6 Degrees B.T.D.C. would be about right.

Rhode Island sends Instructions that are idiot proof - no mistakes - top quality.