Tom Skinner

Who can recommend a Plastic Repro place for making Glove box Door covers. I have an extra to submit to them

Vintage Power Wagon has them for about $17.50 Make one Cheaper yourself, it is after all possible. If you continue to pay some one else to do all your work you most certainly be upside down (financially) with your car as it relates to the actual value of your car. V.P.W. Phone is: (888) 695-0578 page #22 of their 2016 Catalog Tom

Just Remove the Radiator. Turn it upside down in the yard. Put a Water Hose in the bottom and wash it out. You will get a cup of crud out of the top where you usually fill it. It will all come out be patient, and it will probably be fine. Buying and spending doesn't have to be the first solution

Should just pull out by hand

Awww, mix a Margarita or two. The pain goes away and your young again. Just don't drive after 2 or 3 or 4. L.O.L. Don’t drive after 4? I would have to drive, after 4 I can’t walk!!! Mike, I drive after 4 - all the way to the bedroom. L.O.L. Tom

insane radio, Highly unlikely Spring Shackles would cause a Clutch Judder/Chatter. I too thought of everything under the sun to deny the Clutch Judder problem. Question does it Chatter/Judder at lower Speeds say 15 m.p.h. and then return again in the 30 - 35 m.p.h. range? Take your Cover off beneath the Clutch and examine the Clutch Plate for wear. Good Luck, I hope you find it was just your Shackles, however, that may not be the case. Tom

Awww, mix a Margarita or two. The pain goes away and your young again. Just don't drive after 2 or 3 or 4. L.O.L.

There are oil holes at the jamb. Administer some 3 in 1 oil in every one you can find liberally. It should loosen things up a bit

Another way is to measure the Interior with a Cloth Measuring Tape. Much like the ones used by sewers. Remember to account for the seat backs, door panels, armrests, etc. Remember its all looked at as Square Yards by them.

Donald, They do sell these on ebay at rare times - usually around once every three years or so one will be listed on ebay so one can buy one. I have only seen 3 listed in the last 10 years though, and snagged one for about $20. Getting harder to find these switches. Tom

Kiethb7, Maybe the guy had a chebby 350 under the hood. If you look closely at the Picture and Video, he has the wrong Hub Caps on it. The Hood Ornament has something wingy on top of it - also incorrect. It has been my experience at shows that guys that keep their Hoods down at shows are either a little ashamed at the mess that is under that Hood, or have never actually worked on it and are ignorant of what is under the Hood, because they always paid someone else to work on it. Or maybe he was just tired or too stoned to bother. I see old hippies in the background of the picture. Ha Ha. Tom

Rich, When you say the old original AF, do you mean the stuff in the white plastic gallon bottles? Please advise as to which container, or what title you are reffering to. Thank you. Tom

A good try would be maybe ebay I have bought tubes for my Philco Radios on ebay. Type in your part number under Philco Tube Radio. You might also try buying a cheap 9 Tube Philco Radio on ebay and using the vibrator out of it.

The SS4705 Selenoid is becoming as rare as hen's teeth. I am assuming you have the MAX4050 Starter. I know of a man here in N.C. (Generator Starter repairman - retired) that tested my extra starter. Last year I was lucky and still able to obtain and restore a MAX4050 should I ever need one for my spare parts. It still proved to be around $290 to do this, me doing all the work - replacing brushes, bushings, selenoid etc. I started with an ebay starter around $125 the rebuild kit from Bernbaum $40- ish a new SS4705 Selenoid from a man in Georgia around $125. Mind you others wanted $200 for that Selenoid ( out in California). One like him should you remove it from the car can ascertain whether it is faulty in the actual Starter or the Selenoid. Then finally test it and check the proper Pinion Clearance which if memory serves me correctly it will be 1/16". Good Luck. I tried my friends and members of the Chrysler Club, whom all seem to be sitting on any decent spare starter parts available. I was truly fortunate enough to pull it together and restore one. I am not at will to part with it any time soon. The big Part Yards out west are your best bet. Can someone chime in with their names? D.V.A.P. and some to the North in Wisconsin, or Minnessota. Tom

That reminds me of a George Jones song: "He stopped Loving her today" The Girl Friend that is - not the car - L.O.L.

Vintage Power Wagons, a win. Good Parts. Knowledgeable. Fast Service

Shazzaam Shazzaam Sergeant Carter. I have never seen them before. I know Andy Bernbaum's got all the Rubber ones for Pot Metal Housings to the Body and License Plate Light. I would probably opt cut my own before I would pay $24.95 for two little Gaskets. Just saying. Tom

JD, I have a 1948 Chrysler so I am not sure this will help. My marker/directional lights in the front have rubber gaskets between the glass lense and housing for them. My directional's in the back have rubber between the body and pot metal housings for them but no gaskets between the glass lense and the housings. I have owned 1948 Chrysler's for 45 years and this is the way I have always observed them to be. Tom

Sharps40, Ditto. Check Points, Condenser, Cap, and Rotor. Set Timing with a Vacumn Gauge. Look for 20 inches steady hand. Get RPM's to just click at Upshifts - say at 550 RPM. Drive it every day until it runs smooth. A Car that sits - especially a Chrysler Product must be run. Do not let it sit for long periods. Put non-ethanol gas in it. Use QT Gas if possible. Crap Gas will always screw things up (ethanol gas) Drive it. Tom

Branded, Thank you. I saved your instruction sheet/notes above. Tom

OK I'm game. How does one know when they are at each cylinder properly while trying to line up the rotor to the next cylinder. In other words how is that more acurate than the chart the forum provides? Please advise. Thank you. Tom

Hey Jim, This is all I have for Valve Order

All real good advice above. Also though a quick check of Generator Brushes once you run down your bad ground/wire issues, it would be cheap (@$15) and keep things charging once your up and running. One more thing. generally one needs to take a half hour ride to charge everything up good. Its also good for your spirits to ride along in your old car, say at 45 - 50 down a long country road apiece. It lowers my stress level and puts me into a friendly disposition.

Breather Tube hole?

Jimy, Some mechanics set their Valves a tad over the .012 and .010 for if the vehicle will be driven on hot days for long periods the valves wouldn't burn up. Usually this is the case in trucks. An old mechanic in the 70's told me real quiet valves are more likely to burn up. A little ticking keeps them ticking - he said in other words noisy valves tended to be happier valves. They would last longer. Just a little story that I found comical that took place some 44 years ago. Tom