Tom Skinner

The SS4705 Selenoid is becoming as rare as hen's teeth. I am assuming you have the MAX4050 Starter. I know of a man here in N.C. (Generator Starter repairman - retired) that tested my extra starter. Last year I was lucky and still able to obtain and restore a MAX4050 should I ever need one for my spare parts. It still proved to be around $290 to do this, me doing all the work - replacing brushes, bushings, selenoid etc. I started with an ebay starter around $125 the rebuild kit from Bernbaum $40- ish a new SS4705 Selenoid from a man in Georgia around $125. Mind you others wanted $200 for that Selenoid ( out in California). One like him should you remove it from the car can ascertain whether it is faulty in the actual Starter or the Selenoid. Then finally test it and check the proper Pinion Clearance which if memory serves me correctly it will be 1/16". Good Luck. I tried my friends and members of the Chrysler Club, whom all seem to be sitting on any decent spare starter parts available. I was truly fortunate enough to pull it together and restore one. I am not at will to part with it any time soon. The big Part Yards out west are your best bet. Can someone chime in with their names? D.V.A.P. and some to the North in Wisconsin, or Minnessota. Tom

That reminds me of a George Jones song: "He stopped Loving her today" The Girl Friend that is - not the car - L.O.L.

Vintage Power Wagons, a win. Good Parts. Knowledgeable. Fast Service

Shazzaam Shazzaam Sergeant Carter. I have never seen them before. I know Andy Bernbaum's got all the Rubber ones for Pot Metal Housings to the Body and License Plate Light. I would probably opt cut my own before I would pay $24.95 for two little Gaskets. Just saying. Tom

JD, I have a 1948 Chrysler so I am not sure this will help. My marker/directional lights in the front have rubber gaskets between the glass lense and housing for them. My directional's in the back have rubber between the body and pot metal housings for them but no gaskets between the glass lense and the housings. I have owned 1948 Chrysler's for 45 years and this is the way I have always observed them to be. Tom

Sharps40, Ditto. Check Points, Condenser, Cap, and Rotor. Set Timing with a Vacumn Gauge. Look for 20 inches steady hand. Get RPM's to just click at Upshifts - say at 550 RPM. Drive it every day until it runs smooth. A Car that sits - especially a Chrysler Product must be run. Do not let it sit for long periods. Put non-ethanol gas in it. Use QT Gas if possible. Crap Gas will always screw things up (ethanol gas) Drive it. Tom

Branded, Thank you. I saved your instruction sheet/notes above. Tom

OK I'm game. How does one know when they are at each cylinder properly while trying to line up the rotor to the next cylinder. In other words how is that more acurate than the chart the forum provides? Please advise. Thank you. Tom

Hey Jim, This is all I have for Valve Order

All real good advice above. Also though a quick check of Generator Brushes once you run down your bad ground/wire issues, it would be cheap (@$15) and keep things charging once your up and running. One more thing. generally one needs to take a half hour ride to charge everything up good. Its also good for your spirits to ride along in your old car, say at 45 - 50 down a long country road apiece. It lowers my stress level and puts me into a friendly disposition.

Breather Tube hole?

Jimy, Some mechanics set their Valves a tad over the .012 and .010 for if the vehicle will be driven on hot days for long periods the valves wouldn't burn up. Usually this is the case in trucks. An old mechanic in the 70's told me real quiet valves are more likely to burn up. A little ticking keeps them ticking - he said in other words noisy valves tended to be happier valves. They would last longer. Just a little story that I found comical that took place some 44 years ago. Tom

A Fuel Pump can also cause this noise. Get a Long Handled Screw Driver and Place the tip of it near the Fuel Pump when engine is running - the other end on your ear. Listen. Locate the noise. The fuel pumps get to the tick tick tick noise sometimes also. This is one method of listening around the engine and isolating a noise (My bad you say you removed your fuel pump) Tom

Try just using a Vacumn Gauge. Set it to it's highest setting.

250.6 cu. inch Flathead Six for the Royals, Windsors, and Town and Countries. The New Yorker had a 323 cu. inch Eight

Drive mine also about 20 - 25 miles a week

Rekbender, Thank you for the last picture. Now I am confident that should I need to I can repair one, with my old stiff fingers also. Thanks again! Tom

Gents, What holds the Rotor on? I see the post. Then the Rotor and Cover. (Pic second from bottom) What keeps it in place? Is it peened onto the post? Thanks Tom

These typically get bent out of shape. When you get a chance to buy an extra, they come in handy. Tom

If you lived in North Carolina you would throw a scatter rug over them, up and until a chicken came by, then its dinner time.

OldSid, Yes. The Industrials tend to be a tad tougher to find parts for. Vintage Power Wagons is a good source. On ebay under "Chrysler Industrial 251" is another. My buddy has one in his 1947 Windsor, and the parts are tend to be a little pricier than standard 251 engines. I guess if not all, most all got worn out along the way. Tom

Don, Call me the streaker. Tom

Gents, In my humble opinion: One can tighten the Plugs down into their place as tight as one wishes, however, water, will find its way - if its going to - though a split Hood for example down into the plug Cavity and around the Plug. I believe I have heard down through the Centuries - I mean Decades as these being called "Ever Wet Spark Plug Covers". Water finds its own Level - that is - full into the spark Plug cavities. I also find them too expensive for my tastes as well. But then again I remember Coke selling for 10 Cents a Bottle and getting a 5 Cent Deposit back for the Bottle. Don't get mad at me I just see these as after Market Gimmick Items. Restored Cars do not don them. Only in the buyer's minds. Tom

I agree with DPollo. My brake pedal went way down after the cold drop and I refilled the MC. and Bled it several times. Its seem some trash in the M.C. may have also caused it. I took all wheel Drums off and inspected them - no leaks, finally after third bleed brakes have worked like new with no issues or leaks since.

They were recruiting at J.M. Robinson High School in Concord, N.C. while on leave in this picture. When they are on Leave they help Recruit at the High Schools.