viningben
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Posts
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Great idea.. So I got looking at it and if i leave it pinned while I i adjust the linkage i cannot do that .... but I took some needle nose pliers and rotated the pinned side of the shaft foward and pressed the arm back and it looks like it will work to keep the choke 75% open after started drop out. Will test this first thing in the morning will let every one know how it comes out Ben
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Is it at all possible that maybe the solenoid on the auto choke is wearing out or weak? Maybe I need to replace it? They are awfully expensive and I would hate to spend a ton of money on it but, it seems this is th only thing that keeps me from taking her out on the road.. Ben
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The original gasket was garbage it was worn down and tattered to pieces. so i found some exhaust gasket matl and made a new one.
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Yes shel-ny it is complete and looks identical to your picture.
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Yeah i have tried the adjusting as in the pdf's attached have goes over. and the choke does close when it goes to start. but as soon as i let off the start button the choke goes 100% open. and the car dies. Plymothy : I have cleaned as much as i could wire brush/ tooth brush and carb dip with out hurting anything. I have also pumped out most of my gas tank and changed fuel filters.
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So after my previous post about drilling out my exhaust manifold to replace studs for my sisson choke, I finally got that work done and re-mounted my carb and choke. I adjusted the choke and set it as the manual said. The issue i am having that I hope any one can help with is.. the sisson choke closes to start the engine but as soon as engine starts the choke goes 100% open and car stalls and dies. I can start the car and hold the choke 75% closed and it will run like a dream but as soon as I let the auto choke take over the choke opens all the way and the engine dies. I have cleaned the carb, replaced fuel lines and done every thing i know how to. Can any one please lend me some advice on what I am doing wrong? Ben D24 fluid drive Stromburg 1bbl Sisson choke
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I ended up drilling both studs all the way out and re-tapped them 1/4 20. I like the idea of SS all thread with brass nuts will go ahead and do that. As far as the pad underneath I found some GARLOCK gasket material and am going to cut it to size. Does it matted how much I put down 1/4" or 1/8"? Will SS studs with brass nuts conduct enough to act as a ground for the solenoid? And on a really side note: Can anyone recommend a good paint/body shop in the Houston Tx area for my D24 so once my engine/mechanical rebuild is complete i can get her in for a great paint job? Ben
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Does any one know how far in or deep the threads go? do they go all the way threw? i just dont want to drill to far.
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Thanks every one I am currently wire brushing the broken stud area and center punched one to attempt to drill it out. Hope and easy out will be able to back it out if i can get a good bite. Ben
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Hey all, I am new to this site and forum... I have a '48 D24 with a Sisson auto choke, recently while trying to troubleshoot rough idle and running issues. I found that the 2 bolts that hold down the automatic choke had broken off. I have read about drilling a re-tapping the studs, but what I don't know is if the studs thread into the exhaust manifold or if they were braised or welded on originally. From what I can see the bolts broke off flush and I cannot tell see if there are any marks from where they were to begin with. Really just stuck trying to figure out how best to repair this so I can get my D24 back on the road, a y help would be great. ben