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Jeff I indu

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About Jeff I indu

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • My Project Cars
    1949 chrysler royal


  • Location
    Cross plains indiana
  • Interests
    Hunting fishing cars....

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  1. Hickory Took another look and probed with a test light. I see no loose wires. However this time I did notice that when I have a hot wire on the small ignition post and pushed lightly on top of the contacts they did jump together. When you remove the hot wire from the small post the spring pulls them back apart. Reattach the hot wire and the contacts will not touch without a gentle push down. It's as if the coil in the relay does not have the strength to pull the contacts together without a little help. Still thinking I got it wet and something bad happened to the relay Picture shows where I bent the bottom contact a bit, hooked up the hot wire and gave the top contact a push. Then they stuck together but nothing happened. But if I hit the hot wire on the bottom contact,(top in the picture) pinion kicks out and starter spins as it should Jeff
  2. Just grounded the upper left to the battery as well as using a jumper cable from the battery to the ear of the starter. Nothing happens. I am thinking the starter relay is bad since when I hit a hot wire to the lower contact the solinoid engages and the starter spins. Manually touching the contacts together does nothing. I did pressure wash the engine last week and know I hit the starter/solinoid hard. There was still moisture under the solinoid cover when I inspected today. Maybe fried the little coil In the relay. At least that is what I am now suspecting. I see them on Ebay for about 90 bucks. I wont be pressure washing this engine again. Jeff
  3. Hickory Did what you said and bent the contacts a little closer and still nothing. Pushed the contacts manually and nothing. However when I hit the lower contact with power the solinoid energized and it kicked out and the starter turned as it should. But going to go back out and ground the upper right terminal per 50mech and see what happens. I did not have it grounded at all today so maybe that's the missing piece Jeff
  4. This problem is intermittent. Saturday it failed to start at least 10 times. Got some alligator clips and wire and went out Sunday to work on it. Fired right up. Drove it down the road and it shifted fine. Started in the garage at least 10 more times on sunday without issue. Today the starter would not start. Did as dodgeb4ya said and grounded the upper left terminal while applying a hot jumper to the upper right. Still nothing. Verified with a idiot light my hot wire was hot and the ground verified. Crossed the two big lugs at the bottom and the starter turnd but gear does not kick out. So I pulled the starter and cleaned and inspected it. I removed the solinoid cover and I did find moisture and gunk from pressure washing it. Pulled the starter cover back a inch and inspected it. There are commuter bar is shiny with some light scratches on it. The brushes I would say are worn but didn't measure their length. Hooked a old battery cable up to the main lug and used a jumper cable to the ear of the starter. Used a hot wire to the upper right terminal and still nothing. Crossed the two bottom lugs and the starter spins but the pinion does not kick out. Seems like I need to get the contacts in the solinoid to close. If bad brushes or grounding issue why does the starter turn when I cross the two bottom lugs? Book says if points still do not close when starting switch key is turned (in this case my hot wire) defective wiring in ground circuit, poor brush condition in generator or a faulty relay coil is indicated. Since the starter turns when I cross the two main lugs would that mean the brushs and ground circuit are functioning and the relay coil in the solinoid is not functioning? Or maybe its time to take it to a rebuild shop where they can test the commutator bar and replace the brushes.
  5. Took it for a drive last night once it finally started. Fluidrive transmission shifted normally for about a mile. Then after a stop it would no longer shift into the high range. Brought it home and parked it in the garage. Today tried turning the key a few times and nothing. I believe both problems are related as the shift is controlled by the electric solenoid on the transmission and I obviously have a electrical break somewhere. Tomorrow I plan on pulling the starter and checking all my contacts. To bench test the starter out of the car I assume I can use a pair of jumper cables. Positive side of battery and clip anywhere on the starter to ground. Negative side of battery to lower right terminal as it is in the car. Then use a hot jumper to upper right terminal of solenoid to mimic the ignition switch key being turned to the start position. Initially I would expect the solenoid to not work and after inspection, cleaning or whatever i find that it will operate as normal. Is this the proper way to bench test the starter out of the car? I am hoping my shifting issue will disappear once I get the starter working properly again Jeff
  6. Just turned the key and it fired right up. I dont know. I did pressure wash it a few days ago and maybe it's just moisture trapped in the solenoid. Going to drive it a few miles, then park it in the garage. Over the next few days I will see if it is intermittent or something that requires replacement. Maybe clean all my connections tomorrow. Thank for advice Jeff
  7. Jumped them, starter spins but does not engage. The solenoid is not kicking out. Any options? If I pull the starter tomorrow morning, can the solenoid be taken apart and cleaned/ dried? Just not used to this type of starter. Haven't seen a solenoid on a starter since I was a kid and I am 61 now Jeff
  8. Pulled the car out to do some cleanup today. First time I turned the key nothing. Second time it turned over as normal and pulled it out of the garage. Now I turn the key to the start position and get nothing. Battery is charged and when I turn the key the lights dont dim at all but no click, no nothing. Got the tester light and of course hot at the battery terminal of the starter and not the other 3 terminals. Key to on position and same thing. Only hot at the main battery terminal on the solenoid. Wife turns the key to start position and the upper right terminal is now hot but nothing is happening. I did pressure wash the engine a few days ago and maybe got the solenoid wet but it still started. Anyhow I assume I have a starter/solenoid issue. Is there any way to jump the terminals to maybe bypass the solenoid to get it to start and put it back in the garage. I used to cross solenoid terminals years ago but they were always on the firewall. Not sure what to cross on this engine. Picture of solinood attached Jeff
  9. I tested the sending unit at the local garage. They had a digital meter but the lowest ohm setting was 200 ohms. But it read from 7 down to 2 while I was moving the float so I will assume it's good. Loosened and retightened the mounting screws and nuts on the back of the gas gauge. Same thing. Only reads full. One other thing. When I turn the key the dial bangs to full hard. Not gradual at all. I think 50mech is correct. If there are two coils that fight each other the one that pulls to the empty side is bad. A new gas gauge is about 35 dollars delivered on Ebay. Will be purchasing it shortly. Thanks for all the advice Jeff
  10. This meter is all i have for now. I hooked the sending unit up in series and cant detect a voltage drop at all when moving the float. There is a garage up the road and I will check with them tomorrow to see of they have a better meter. Still need to check the gas gauge for grounding issues up front. Just trying to verify the sending unit first. Thanks for everyone's input. It really helps a ton. Will advise more tomorrow. Jeff
  11. This is the reading i get with the float up. Looks the same to me Jeff
  12. I only have one setting for ohms. This is the reading I get with the float down
  13. Just retested with 4 hands to hold things this time. I have between one and two ohms of resistance no matter what position the float is in. Its bouncing a little. Voltage remains at 6 volts regardless of float position
  14. Got a analog multimeter and pulled the new sending unit again. Set it on ohms X1k, grounded the unit so that the fuel gauge reads full. The ohm meter needle moves all the way to the right and reads zero. Moved the float several times and no movement of ohm reading Set it to 10 DCV and got a reading of 6 volts at the screw of the sending unit Again moved the float and no matter what position I still have 6 volts at the screw of the sending unit. I'm not the best with a analog multimeter but shouldn't either the ohms or voltage change based on the float position?
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