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48ply1stcar last won the day on August 30 2019

48ply1stcar had the most liked content!

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About 48ply1stcar

  • Rank
    Member, been hanging around a while...
  • Birthday 10/09/1951

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Blaine, MN
  • My Project Cars
    I've only had one project car since 1968.

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    My mother purchased this car for $75. Joined the Army in 1970 forgot to get out.
  • Occupation
    Retired Army and retired govt employee.


  • Location
    Blaine, MN (North of MPLS)
  • Interests
    bowling and visiting Army buddies.

Recent Profile Visitors

2,061 profile views
  1. I thought of a shorter bolt and different washers. But, before that I flip over the hose and it worked. We'll see tomorrow if I still have brakes. Thanks for everybody's help.
  2. Another issue. I have a leak at the hose to caliper and I can't tighten it enouch to stop the leak. Break time on I'll try different washers. NOTE: I used two left front brake hoses and I can't get the right one to stop leaking could that be the issue?
  3. I plugged the hose outlets, much easier with only two hands. Filled the MC and pushed the brake pedal until the reservoir was fill and the brake pedal was high and firm. That's all I did after going to three part stores to buy the plugs, 15 minutes of work today.
  4. Adam did you have any problems with bleeding the brakes? See above.
  5. Now I know why is so few threads on this subject. Second wheel same as the first. Easy-peasy conversion. The hub is no different than installing any hub or the original front drum. Once you install the bracket it's no different than any other disc brake job. I wanted to re-locate the metal brake hose to the rear of the suspenion, but I spent too much time looking for a brake hose with a 90 degree banjo fitting. I used a 17 inch front brake hose from an 85 Cadilac Seville and ran the hose between the shock and king pin Still working on the master cylinder, trying to use the original master cylinder without the residual valve. I'll let you know how that works out.
  6. I have finished the brake converion. Then I removed the rubber washer around the residual valve, that was fun. Tried to bleed the brakes. I had my nieghbor pump the pedal while I opened and closed the bleeder valve. I done this many times before, but this time I cound't get any resistance at all and then I had some and then none again. I started with the front brakes because they had little or no fluid in the lines. Next I'm going to try a vacuum pump, starting at the back passenger rear and try to evacuate the old fluid.
  7. Last year when I disasemmabled and cleaned my distributor I used white grease spray very sparingly. I use motor oil in the oil cup.
  8. 40 Desoto, I like relocation of the brake line. I didn't do that because I couldn't fine a hose with the 90 degree angle I would have needed at the banjo fitting.
  9. Ulu, that's why you're the Zen Master.
  10. The bleeder is next to banjo fitting. Here's the other caliper.
  11. No problem with the stock wheel rubbing on the caliper, I wonder if that is an issue with certain brands of caliper.
  12. Finished the drivers side today. Decided against moving the hose bracket and used a 17 inch brake hose. Front brake hose from a 1985 Oldsmobile Toronado or 1985 Cadillac Seville, I had remove the bracket and ran the hose between the king pin and the shock. I didn't have to enlarge the hole in the hose bracket, althought their was a little nub on the side of the hose end that I ground off. I used the clip that came with the hose on top of bracket and a wire tie under the bracket to hold it tight against the bracket. No problem with the stock wheel rubbing on the caliper, I wonder if that is an issue with certain brands of caliper.
  13. In #7, Adam says to remove the rubber and re-install,
  14. The residual valvu is the first thing inside the back of the master cylinder.
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