Dodgeb4ya

When the engine is running...only time it's hard to shift into high low range? Same into reverse and grinding? What year of Dodge? Only one rod with double nuts to adjust on the linkage if that is the problem. The adjustment could be on the rod up by the steering gear and firewall or on some at the shifter side cover lever.

Maybe take a bit of a break. Health before major projects?

I did not mean to offend posting the "yank hard enough"....... I just posted ...I thought on your thread recommending it's best to pull the transmission. I actually posted it on Bryce's thread on Saturday... Sorry..?

The 16" drums /hubs between 1947 "W" series and the later "B" series might not interchange. Hub bearings are usually smaller on single speed axles compared to two speed axles. Most "B" series (1948-1953) drive train parts were changed some what from the earlier "W" trucks. Maybe the 1947 drums will just bolt onto the two speed hubs and fit proper to the backing plates..lucky day for you if they do? You will have to just swap parts and see.

Yank hard enough and maybe the engine, trans and driveshaft might pull forward....that...if the floor hump and cross member spread apart enough.

Cylinder balance tests, oscilloscope secondary voltage readings, typical point dwell, rpm and timing ect. I don't remember all tests it could do but it was the machine in it's day. Boy that's been almost 50 years ago.?

Vacuum shift is the smoothest and fast. But a complicated system. Electric motor shifters are a bit slower to shift and grind a bit. Also require the shifter switch on the shifter. Your best bet is to make up and install a manual linkage shifter using a long rod and shift lever. The 1946 and back trucks used this type of shifter.

I used to use this same machine in 1972 at an "Enco" gas station... The machine was brand new as was the service station.

I have had my big tube of "Rotunda" cam lube for at least 25 years. Don't use Chinese points!☠?

It is odd stuff that ends up on old or new points that have been sitting for especially a long time. I just went thru this on points in my Mallory distributor in my 51 Plymouth. They were like new when I parked it over 10 years ago. Pulled the distributor lnow before I started it there would be build up on both sets. There was....a thick waxy like layer on both contacts...lightly scraped it off with a worn dull point file. After cleaning and lubing the distributor fired right up. Been through this many times with point contamination. Another issue I have had only on the Chrysler straight eight points with the fiber resin pivot hole and rubbing block is the points sticking open after a drive and shutting the engine off..oiling/cam lube doesn't fix the problem. Filing the pivot hole is the only fix. Problem is swelling of the fiber resin hole. This has occured only on the OE Autolite resin pivot/rubbing block point sets. Nylon pivot/rubbing block style points... never any sticking open point arms.

The stud part # is 657047. All those choke units are mounted for many years with the same size studs? See line 14-64-3

The metal backed dash pads are retained by 3/8" nuts on studs on the backside of the dash and can be difficult to access.

They originally are studs with nuts mounting the Sisson choke unit. The original studs are 1/4" X 20 tpi at the end that threads into the exhaust manifold. The other exposed end of the stud retaining the Sisson choke unit has 1/4" X 28 tpi. Overall length of this original factory stud is about 3/4". Use what you want to retain the choke unit. Screws, bolts etc. I always use the correct studs.

51-52 Dodge....

Maybe Paul bought this $70.00 better quality pump...

The transmission needs to be removed for R&R of engine on a P23.

Love the sound of those spur gear 4 speeds...learned to drive with one! Thanks for the ride!

To begin...... to get the drums on turn the anchor arrows so they point directly to each wheel cylinder on the front brakes. The picture you posted shows the shoe anchors (arrows pointing away from cylinders) pushing shows outwards. On the rear brakes the lower two anchor pin arrows should point directly to each other. Loosen the 7/8" nut on the back of the anchor bolts so you can rotate the anchor bolts. Behind the hold down spring clips is the brake shoe adjusting cam...using a 3/4" wrench turn it so the shoe moves inward as far as it will go. These settings/adjustments of the arrows and adjusting cams will move the brake shoes inward and should make the drums slip on. Then use what ever tool you have to set them up as in the shop manual. And you should be reading the factory shop manual to help guide you. Plus the help here.

Do not remove the gland nut with the sender bulb stuck in it. If the sender bulb will not easily pull out of the gland nut remove the small soft plug above the sender and wedge the sender bulb out with a wide screw driver.

All 1946-52 Plymouth clutch forks are the same for Auburn and B&B clutch cover styles.

A damn big hammer and a blue tip will get the project going.

Few and far between putting a MoPar V8 in a Cambridge or Cranbrook here. Anywhere for that matter.

Bead blast them...they will be fine unless deep pits or you just want better pulleys.

The modern V8's certainly had an effect...caused higher attainable and longer constant high freeway speeds. The old obsolete wimpy flatheads didn't have enough power to heat up those rear ends causing elongated axle shafts ha ha that needed up to an additional .010" clearance.

Brent..his trucks and dolls....note I said "his" dolls?