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48 New Yorker

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48 New Yorker last won the day on November 7 2023

48 New Yorker had the most liked content!

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About 48 New Yorker

  • Birthday 05/01/1952

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Santa Cruz CA
  • Interests
    Auto Restoration
  • My Project Cars
    1941 Buick Special Sedanette,

    1948 Chrysler New Yorker sedan,

    1950 Buick Super Sedanette,

    1956 DeSoto Sportsman,

    1957 Buick Caballero wagon

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  • Biography
    My stable contains a Chrysler, Desoto, and a few Buicks
  • Occupation
    retired

Converted

  • Location
    santa cruz ca
  • Interests
    Restoring old cars

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  1. I'm guessing when the solenoid ground got wonky, it used the headlight switch in the "off" position for the ground....or just gremlins.
  2. The ammeter did register a discharge when the lights were turned on. Think I found the issue. While taking the above posted photo, I moved the brown grounding wire from the solenoid back and forth for picture clarity. Now the starter engages with the lights on....perhaps a corroded connection? I'll clean it up and hit it with some dielectric grease. Thank all.
  3. Several years ago when I switched out the generator for an alternator, I added several additional grounds between the block, body and frame. I grounded the brown starter solenoid wire to the block, also ran a ground from the starter housing to the frame. see photo. Of course, now I have to be mindful not to accidentally hit the starter button when the engine is running or it will grind. BTW, I attempted to start it w/headlights on while pressing the hi/low beam switch just to see if it made any difference....it didn't, still didn't crank.
  4. I agree with BryanG and Hickory....the search for the ground path thru the headlight switch begins. Here's my wiring diagram with the modification of the alternator. Brown grounding wire from Gen has been removed from diagram. Highlighted in correct wire code colors, are the starting and headlight circuits.
  5. Lots of reasonable possibilities, which I will pursue. Plymouthcranbrook, you are correct, the issue is a matter of curiosity....while I'd rather not have the issue, I do enjoy the "detective work" to figure it out... The wiring is original, and with one exception is stock....(previous owner installed a "rube goldberg" switch on the steering column to activate the backup light....light had been removed when I got it, but the switch remained. Sniper may be on to something.....in the distant past, I removed the ignition switch and may have mis-wired it on installation...usually don't make those mistakes, but the code stripes are very faded...will have to peel back some tape to trace. Also considering the effect of replacing the generator and voltage regulator with the alternator and built in regulator. If I recall, there was a brown wire off of the generator/voltage reg. that prevented the starter from activating if the button was pushed while the car was running to prevent starter grind.
  6. My ’48 Chrysler New Yorker has a strange starting problem. The starter will not engage/crank when the headlight switch is pulled to on position -- I don’t mean slow cranking with lights on — it doesn’t crank at all… with the lights on, pressing the starter button does not dim the lights. With starter button depressed and lights on, the starter won’t engage — switch the lights off while depressing the starter button, and it fires right up…the headlight switch in the “on” position acts like a kill switch. When the lights are off, it easily fires right up every time. Battery is fully charged, battery cables are sized 2/0 (made from welding cables) and the generator has been replaced with a 6 volt alternator with internal voltage regulator — external regulator removed. Other than the headlight/starting issue, it starts easily and runs great. Any clues?
  7. I recently installed a complete system from Waldron's on my 48 New Yorker. It was quiet to start with, and as I've put miles on it's become a bit quieter....probably as a result of carbon build up. Tends to mute the noise/vibration. Here's what it sounded like after I took off the old system; before installing the new one......straight outta the exhaust manifold...
  8. Stargrinder: Glad you were able to replace your bulb.....IMO, the biggest risk is disturbing the brittle wiring, which can crack off (if original). You may want to check the wiring after a while to see if road vibration may have shaken loose some of the insulation, exposing bare wire. If so, you can do small touch ups with a few layers of Plasti-Dip and a brush.
  9. Sniper: Thanks for the part number on the Stant locking gas cap (10491). I was able to locate one at Summit for $11.99.....it just arrived, fits well and it is as pictured below, metal not plastic. I'm happy with it, but noticed the bottom edge of the stamped metal cap is kinda sharp....I'm going file it down a bit to avoid a grab'n slice.
  10. All the pistons on my 48 New Yorker are stamped with "STD", indicating the standard bore. Do they come stamped this way from the factory as originally built, or are they replacement pistons (in a standard size bore)?
  11. Sniper: Now why didn't I think of that.....my parts manual is sitting right in front of me....duh. Was just using it to check the assembly of my hand brake. Good call.
  12. Does anyone have a recent part number for a locking gas cap....(not non locking). Not looking for an NOS, but a new off the shelf cap. Gas at $5.00+ brings out the siphon creeps. I've looked all over the web and this forum for a part number for a locking gas cap for my '48 Chrysler New Yorker 8, but haven't found any info. Also tried Burnbaum and Roberts, the Stant and NAPA websites as well as the other usual suspects..... no locking caps. Thanks.
  13. Dodgeb4ya: I noticed you are in WA....my car was delivered in '48 to Carter's Garage in Centralia WA, don't know who the original owner was tho'. Would love to get my hands on a New Yorker business coupe.....but alas, I have no room for another toy.
  14. DodgeB4ya: I've also read that the Stromberg was '46-'47 only....so why does my '48 have one? -- unless it was installed post purchase (unlikely). I wrote to Chrysler historical for some documentation (punch card and correspondence) and received the following below.....at any rate, I"m grateful for the 5 extra hp. ps: Maybe I have one of those oddball "Monday morning" builds..... my vin tag says "Desoto Division.....wha !! ??
  15. Hello Keith: Both the 6 and 8 remind me of an old radial engine biplane starting up..... a mechanical symphony. I have 2 additional straight eights, a Buick 248 and 263 which "burble" through their mufflers at idle and are different sounding than the Chrysler. If you view the original "Topper" w/Cary Grant - 1937, the custom bodied car has a great exhaust note, probably due to side pipes and a minimal exhaust (if any). They used a Century/Roadmaster chassis with a 320ci straight 8. If I could locate a 6V electric exhaust cutout, I'd be very temped to install one in each of the 8's. ps, Really like your vids, I've used them to diagnose some of my own "gremlins".
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