Dodgeb4ya

Take that four blade fan off then you would need traction bars.

The "Rotor style"oil pump on a B series does not use a gasket on the pump cover. A quad style O-ring with out any sealant is used. The O ring is seated down into a groove machined in the pump housing. Rotor to pump cover clearance is factory set...no clearance adjustment required. The Old 30's style MoPar "Gear Tooth" type oil pumps had gaskets used to both set clearances of gears to cover clearance and to seal the cover. Make sure which pump you have to service it correctly. I think the cover clearance is no more than .004"

You said oil was leaking out of the filter top...so the pump was working.. So #1 ...Check that the relief valve and spring is correct before worrying about the oil filter lines Oil filter housing should be stamped "in" and "out" at line connections. There are different brands/ types of oil filter housings (oil lines reversed). #2....Possibly but unlikelythe floating oil pick up is floating too high in the oil sucking air.? There are little metal tabs on the pickup tube that if get bent change the floating oil pickup drop and height. I've had a couple engines that had this issue. The oil pan needs 5 qts plus at least one for the filter. The oil filter had to fill up completely up to start leaking ... That also means the oil pan oil level dropped too. Recheck the oil level.

Generally if it's really over the limit pulling and pushing on the flywheel hard you will hear and feel a heavy clunk. And you will easily see the crank and flywheel move forward and backward. A proper end play of approximately .005" would not show any movement or sounding clunk to say a novice mechanic. A dial indicator is the accurate way to see the exact crankshaft end play clearance. Also end play would have to be way way out of spec to cause a serious engine issues, difficult to achieve proper clutch adjustment, crank pulley moving, timing chain rubbing timing cover with clutch pushed in of course while running. Just something that probably should be checked.

Make sure crankshaft end play is less than .010".

No 1946-52 MoPar flathead cars came with a shroud or five blade fan.....except... 1946-50 Chrysler flathead eights which did use a shroud and a five blade fan. 1953-54 Plymouths used a upper partial shroud and six blade fan with a larger water pump pulley. Heavy six cylinder Dodge trucks also used a shroud and five blade fan. Some Mid to late thirties cars had shrouds and five blade fans too.

You can see the cable and clip...

A "P" cable clamp or clip is used to position the cable to the firewall insulator. A push in sawtooth metal retainer clip holds it in place. It is approximately 12" straight up from the cable exit hole in the floor board.

Jeez...what hackers! Flex Seal/Tape probably would be better.?

The engine will run fine with out the vacuum advance for testing. Disconnect and plug the line...run it and see.

It's a job removing the floor pan, rubber matt/ carpets pedals accelerator pedal etc. If the floor is rusty the 1/4" X 20 bolts can break. Taking the seat out will make easier removal of the floor panel too.

Oh.. it just looks like the gasket barely seals these stud and water holes.. Looks like from the picture maybe the water port holes are cast slightly off compared to the factory head...maybe just the picture.

Some of the stud and water jacket holes are really too close to the crush ring of the head gasket IMO.

Black and red wires to battery... The third...green? To the distributor terminal of coil or directly to the distributor terminal.

The shafts cannot be loose in the master cylinder. This makes sure the pedals are not wobbly and don't scrape the floor pan openings. I have seen the shafts pinned, bolted and pressed onto/ into the master cylinder bore. Now days all are pressed into the cylinder using preferably a press.

Do I see those wonderful greaseable E-Brake cables?

I have done so many brake jobs on the old MoPars over the last 45 years ...second nature to me.... All the newcomer's...new things to learn and then the need to have good tooling and a good mechanical mind.

Yesterday took my 1952 Belvedere for a drive...last one for the year..

Yes it can and was done from underneath at the dealers and brake shops. I have also done them that way for years but now days most cannot or don't want to do it to me the much easier way. Takes about an hour and a half start to finish including pressure bleeding for me from underneath. You probably better remove the floor panel.?

The flywheel ring gear should be used to try to turn over an engine that is partially frozen up. Using a very large heavy duty screw driver or equivalent that fits into the ring gear teeth. Use the side of the bell housing as the fulcrum point. The crankshaft nut provides no multiplication of turning force like the large diameter flywheel does. The broken off threaded sleeve part in the crank snout should come out fairly easy when lubed. Try using a prick punch on the broken off face of the crank nut. Angle the punch to the direction of unscrewing it. A few hammer taps will let you see if it will be easy to rotate it out.

No....different designed shaped wing caps.

That's right Marc... The U-joint cap retaining clips! It's DeSoto week around here...I just got two M5 DeSoto transmissions. They are M5 because the model code is stamped on them and they have the required odd DeSoto U-joint flange on the E-brake drum.

You have those DeSoto only "Batwing" joints as you know. Tough to find. I think I sold you one of those.

If that 52 Hemi did come with the FTD converter and M6 trans...are you going to install all of it back in the Windsor? Because the torque converter oil cooler is not connected to the water pump on the driver's side...Also don't see the torque converter adapter plate and sump housing etc. There's quite a few parts to the FTD compared to the simple Fluid Drive with the M6 trans setup. Just wondering..

Not if you install them properly ...the only way.