Dodgeb4ya

Running the rear OD case low on oil will destroy the planetary gear set as shown above. Not to mention the sun and annulus gears too. And yes they are a job to remove.?

I sure love that mottled beige plastic!

The inner speedo cable should really be pulled out from the speedo head end of cable housing. IT should be carefully checked over for any wear/unraveling or other damage ...cleaned up then lubed. Might also want to look at the outer speedometer cable housing for any kinks severe bends or being too close to the exhaust header pipe.

I think that is the answer.

Axle end play specs grew on the mid to late 50's cars.. .013" to .018"

I paid over $1800.00 for a recore on my Dodge 4 ton truck.

In the big cities all the old equipment is gone...around here you have to go to eastern Washington to try to find industrial or farm equipment. But a few years back when scrap prices were high most of the old machinery was scrapped...very little old farm equipment if any is left. I have traveled parts hunted over there for years...not worth going there much more for old MoPar.

Swap up to the 230 as mentioned. The 201 is lethargic imo.?

No pad on your 265 Industrial engine.☹

Hopefully coolant then is not trying to weep elsewhere and into a cylinder. You probably would notice it as a brief 1st start cylinder miss.

Now I just saw industrial engine....all bets are off as to what your engine is. Internally the full flow can be changed either full flow or bypass. You will have to find out look ing for internal oil plugs that change oil flow.

Your 1951 factory installed Chrysler 251 engine uses a "Full Flow" filtration system. All 1946 and later Chrysler six and eight cylinder engines are full flow as came from the factory.

Did you really really carefully clean the block threads and dry them too? Then apply permatex #2 to the block threads and cleaned bolt? Using long Q tips or equivalent....letting it sit over night before filling the cooling system. I don't like the thread tape or white thread sealers...jmo. If it's a head gasket leak I'd fix that soon.

I would definitely want a 265 for any truck as they are a noticeable increase in power over the 251. And there are many who want the 265 to build and install in the cars too. Good running or good rebuildable passenger and truck 265 engines are not common at all compared to the 251 engines. Combine 265 /industrial engines are not to be found in the cities?

Those truck beds can be very heavy.

Probably 3 to 4 strap clamps or long (12") bolts along each side of the bed. Usually say 3/4" nuts and or bolts used. Generally the beds are pulled down, clamped to the frame. The bolts are usually rusty too.

I have the same problem only on this site. Sometimes I can rotate the picture four or five times different ways and get it to post correctly. I've deleted cookies...tried a different browser...studied the issue online...have given up on the problem here.

The dial indicator I used has 1" of total plunger travel. I usually set up the indicator say midway of the 1" travel. ***Next I very very firmly push or pull the axle to it's limit..Doesn't matter which way. ***Next while still holding the axle shaft I zero the indicator (rotate the dial face to align the zero to the needle... ***Next push or pull the axle opposite way and read the total end play. The reading you see is the total end play reading for both sides. The pic above I posted is a old picture shot to show general Indicator setup and reading. As for the .005" shown sometimes the axle and end play reading will stay when you let go of the axle. I honestly don't know/remember if that was what happened on that job. Pic was just one I shot for reference...ended up here!

If the crankshaft, water pump and generator pulleys line up, and are not damaged or severely pitted then pulleys including the generator are not your problem. Different width pulleys are a problem...out of line pulleys too. Check for those problems. As for simply getting the right generator pulley...you need to first know something is wrong with the one you have. Carefully watch the belt and pulleys while the engine is running looking thru the centerline of said belt and pulleys.. Watch for the belt angled off a straight line or bent wobbly pulleys. Look for the belt scraping some metal frame, bolt shroud etc. You will find the issue.

Was the cam re-ground? I've had a couple re-ground cam engines that the valve train could not be clatter free no matter how well the valves were adjusted. New guides, new valves.

That looks to be a Sears Suburban. A friend has two of those in real nice original shape. I want to see those kind of ads!

Possibly a generator or mounting issue... There are two or more possible generator and pulley combo's used on the 8's. "GGU" generators are the real oddball. Rebuilt units sometimes end up with the wrong pulley which moves the belt in or out.

Maybe you have in the last 72 hours??

This is the NAPA belt #25-24489. I have always used this belt on all the 1946-50 Chrysler eights with no issues other than the occasional cackling noise so common on these engines with the wide belt. I use the Gates too but cannot remember the #. I never tighten the belts much...never any wear issues.

If it runs nicely...go with it. Vacuum gauges are over rated as to the perfect number for all engines.