Dodgeb4ya

I love to look at "Tool" porn. I never see tool ads here?

Andy I agree with you. The films are good but not always 100% on problem solving some issues. They have taught me a lot. I have most all of the early service and sales films and have watched nearly all of them. Used to show them every month at the Chrysler club meetings in the 70's. Boy those were the days!

If the bearing cones or races have severe wear which would be obvious you would have excessive end play. New bearings can also require shim removal though the need to add shims is typical...not a lot...say a .005" maybe a .010". I have a stack of them I collected over time. But let's say the bearings are worn a bit..to tighten them up to spec you would need to remove shims. Typically the rear axle bearings last many many miles and years and do not require shim service. If the bearings (rollers and cups) after careful cleaning look like new and feel buttery smooth forcing the cup down hard on the cone while rotating back and forth use them! Maybe the last work on the axle seals those folks set the end play...? Incorrectly...IDK. That's great that the car was your parents car and now you are bring it back to good use!

And all I'm seeing is diamond bracelets and doggie Halloween costumes.

I think I need to set up my projector and record player and watch some "Mr Tech") films...?

As for the slight clunk yanking in and out on the axles.. You have to do it firmly in and out...but don't worry about that. The indicator tells the true reading. Looks like you got the end play in middle of the. 003" - .008".range. Normally when checking these axles end play the indicator would be attached to the backing plate. Magnetic or clamp style base. But as you did works because I assume your rear axle is resting on jack stands preventing any movement. You did good! You have a little axle end play and not too much after double checking your work. As for needing to remove shims when no bearings were replaced? You did tighten the backing plates up to roughly 25 ft lbs? If the bearings were galled/ worn out that would cause excessive end play. End of axle shart same but doubt it. That's why a axle end play check before axle repairs let's you know whats up. It's a new learning experience for you. Look at it as some old car repair fun?

Better watch the factory service film on sealing against water leaks. Mr Tech says.....

Those 4 speed spur gear transmissions are tough and trouble free. Also are actually easy to shift with a little practice. I love the sound of them. When 16 (1968) I learned to drive my brothers 50 DT panel with that same spur gear trans. He still has it and drove it last month.

Those two transmissions are non syncro four speeds.

The 51 NY'er drums front and rear use the larger bolt pattern wheels,hubs/bearings on the fronts, rear drums use a larger axle shaft. Any Chrysler "8" brake swap to the smaller six cars would be difficult. The front spindle support also uses the larger threaded pins and bushings. So a steering knuckle support swap won't work either. So no not an easy swap at all.

I would want to know if the roller and needle bearings have rust pitting. Some of your gear teeth are some what pitted from sitting.

Using a jumper wire from the light socket to a good body/frame ground is how I quickly see if that makes the non working bulb then work.

Yeah...I remember when I first saw one of those Auburn clutch covers... A strange looking thing...never wanted one in my cars.. They do work unless the car is used for racing.

Your original clutch pressure plate is a "Auburn" style. The one AB sent is a Borg and Beck. Both types were used in Plymouths. I always used the B&B type 9-1/4" or optional 10". The throw out bearing you got....throw it back. Don't know what that is they sent you.

1950 Chryslers have factory installed turn signals. Possibly a bad light socket ground causing the right side to not work... I'd pull the lens and with the right T-signal turned on wiggle the bulb...it might start blinking. Try cleaning the bulb socket with a small wire brush with the lights off of course..and check that the bulb is #1154 6 volt bulb is good Could also be dirty T-signal switch contacts...wiggling the turn signal lever on the right side with the key on might get the right side to light up. Correct bulb numbers front and rear are 1154.

Right behind the pulley in the cup with a couple "Pointed tangs" to prevent it from spinning in that pulley cup. Just a 1953 and later dust/dirt seal.

I doubt the 49 clock will fit. Here are pics and dash opening dimensions from a 1951-52 Plymouth Clock. These are very hard to find BTW.

Anyone like to post a picture of their wonderful comfy couch?

Might be info in the owners manual. I know years ago I pushed started a couple Dodge and Chrysler's at less than 20 mph.

A long heavy duty screw driver...pound it off as already mentioned or a good pair of vice grips on the lip...TIGHT...twist and work it off. That's how I remove them. NAPA has those clips in different sizes.

OK...A long read... That Miller tool does not set the race to the proper spec. It is only a race driver tool...not really necessary to install the bearing race....though I use one most of the time if not a large brass drift. As for axle shaft bearing end play yeah it should be roughly checked for end play before axle shaft removal.. I should have stated that and I do generally check it on jobs. The rear end must be up on stands before checking any axle end play job.. The drums can still be installed if doing a quick end play hand check before pulling axle shafts for more service repairs. Use a dial indicator. Axle shafts readings on the dial indicator should and must read equal either side. Push and pull hard on the axle shaft and or drum and read the amount of end play. Do exactly the same on the other side... it must read the same end play as the first side and normally always will on a properly operating rear end axle assembly. **On a rear axle that has had new seals, bearings etc it is critical to make that approximately the same thickness of shims are installed on both sides or the differential centering block will bottom out... **It's also important to use the original factory width inner seal and drive it in fully to the machined housing stop depth. If this inner seal is too wide or not driven in fully the axle shaft step will rub against the inner oil seal (seals) causing erractic end play reading issues. As for installing the axles and races/cups... ..Don't drive the bearing cups into the housing flush..drive them to with in a 1/16" of the housing mount surface. Then install the original shims both sides. Install both the backing plates semi tightened. Now fully tighten up either backing plate which will push the bearing race in as far as the shim will permit. Go to the other side and gradually tighten up the backing plate while "hand checking" for some axle shaft end play movement. Usually you will have correct or close to it if re-installing good original axles shafts and bearings. If you don't have any end play before the second backing plate is fully tightened up you will need to add more shims (.005", .010", .015") etc and will need to be evenly added to both sides with in reason. This till an .008" max end play dial indicator reading is achieved at both sides. You will need to set up a dial indicator to properly do the final accurate end play check and adjustments. Always double check for even side to side end play readings by firmly wacking the ends of both axles to be sure the opposite side bearing races are forced tight to opposite side backing plates. Re-check axle end play a couple times to be sure it's set right. Uneven uncommon side to side end axle play truble could be caused by ***Wrong or not fully seated inner seals. ***Wrong new axle shaft bearings or not fully seated on axle shaft ***Worn end of axle shaft ***Damaged centering block ***Wrong outer seals and seal plates (up to 1942). And that's enough for me to type out for tonight!? .

Also a couch is called Chesterfield.? .

Just bought exactly that hose two days ago at Carquest...2" and 2-1/4" each about 2 foot long. USA hose. 59 bucks! Sold by the inch. Probably do much better online...maybe.

My 52 B3B came with FD 3 spd and the 218. Most any engine can be repaired/rebuilt unless worn excessively or spun main bearings ,oversize cylinders etc.

Some things to look at..after making sure Ignition system is tuned properly and if the car still is not running out right.. Carb is plugged up... Step up piston stuck and or jet plugged up.. Main jet partially plugged Accelerator pump weak... Good luck..?